• Welcome to RCCrawler Forums.

    It looks like you're enjoying RCCrawler's Forums but haven't created an account yet. Why not take a minute to register for your own free account now? As a member you get free access to all of our forums and posts plus the ability to post your own messages, communicate directly with other members, and much more. Register now!

    Already a member? Login at the top of this page to stop seeing this message.

Jato Repents with a VS4-10 Origin Limited Kit

.... because the threads were machined like crap as you can see in the photos below. I do not have an M3 tap on hand (I should), so I had to use an M3 screw and turn it in with lots of force to clean up the threads.

Take a 3mm cap head screw (that uses a 2.5mm hex) and cut a groove down the side of the threads with a dremel. The groove will catch any shavings as it cleans up the threads- works great as a poor man's tap. "thumbsup"
 
To solve the inner fender tearing, make a styrene donut from stock. I did it on the wife’s Enduro inners, never painted them, so you can see the white squares, behind the red d rings
They fit under the screw heads and clamp the fenders in place.

Great idea. Maybe I can snag some aluminum from work to make some of these.

Those Fanquish V2 wheels are sexy!


I had the same issue with the weird gap between the inner fenders and the frame rails. VP fixed this issue with the PRO kits. The gap is no longer there. I believe they are the same fender kit, but just lazer cut different.

That's odd about the delrin skids. Mine bolted up perfectly. They lay nice and flush and smooth. I also did not have any issues with any bolt threads in the alum braces. All were drilled and taped nicely.

When I installed my front inner fenders to the chassis rails, I used washers under the screws to make them more secure so they wouldn't break. They ended up breaking anyways though.

Mike's idea with making the styrene piece will help keep them from breaking. I went a little overkill on mine and made an alum bracket to bolt into the fenders and I used the servo mount screws to attach it. Sprayed it with some black paint to blend in. It is rock solid now and is bullet proof!:)

Yep, I would think they would just have to change their laser cutting program to get the fenders tighter against the frame. I'm glad they fixed it on the Pro.

Just my luck that I got parts that aren't perfect. :ror:

I really like the brace! Great idea.


Take a 3mm cap head screw (that uses a 2.5mm hex) and cut a groove down the side of the threads with a dremel. The groove will catch any shavings as it cleans up the threads- works great as a poor man's tap. "thumbsup"

Huh! Aren't you clever?! That is a really good idea. Thanks. "thumbsup"
 
Out of the two builds you got going now what one do you recommend or prefer so far?

I don’t have major complaints about either truck at this point. They were both pretty fun to build. The Origin has cool aluminum axles while the TK has a cool, scale transmission and motor cover. I haven’t driven either one. But the TK is about half the price of the Origin.
 
Yes the current inner fenders that are in stock and included with the Pro kit have the adjusted laser cut line to better match the frame rail.

All your complaints have already been addressed on the Pro kit. Hurry up and order one! :mrgreen:
 
7a8c0b8a8dd4af32b781a19f8883957d.jpg


Perfect and quick.


Hang up and Drive
 
Everything after the universal went together smoothly. Vanquish parts typically fall together. Here's the pumpkin cover and knuckles installed. The aluminum hexes are a nice touch. I was so tempted to use scale hardware here, but I was afraid rock rash would round off the already spotty heads. Some scale screw heads are great and others are ready to round from the factory.

It's at this point that I noticed the short universal was also causing a bind. Without it installed the axle is smooth as butter. As soon as the short universal is installed I got a bind on every rotation. I contacted Mr. Pham, sent him some photos and video, and a new one is on the way. This is nothing than any normal QC inspection would have caught because it looks completely fine.

Had to go back and dig this up as I knew someone had ran into this before. Unfortunately I just ran into what sounds like a very similar issue, however mine seems to be on the long end of the universal. It took A LOT of elbow grease to get the bearing seated, and even once it is seated as far as it will go it is preventing me from being able to attach the steering knuckle correctly. I can only get one screw to line up correctly and the other will only go in without the sleeve and even then it’s not a good fit and causes binding. Without the universal in it appears as if everything would like up just fine.

I was glad to hear I’m not the only one that ran into this, but am bummed it happened. Fired off an email to VP support and hoping to have a new uni sometime soon so I can keep moving forward.
 
Had to go back and dig this up as I knew someone had ran into this before. Unfortunately I just ran into what sounds like a very similar issue, however mine seems to be on the long end of the universal. It took A LOT of elbow grease to get the bearing seated, and even once it is seated as far as it will go it is preventing me from being able to attach the steering knuckle correctly. I can only get one screw to line up correctly and the other will only go in without the sleeve and even then it’s not a good fit and causes binding. Without the universal in it appears as if everything would like up just fine.

I was glad to hear I’m not the only one that ran into this, but am bummed it happened. Fired off an email to VP support and hoping to have a new uni sometime soon so I can keep moving forward.

Yeah it's a bummer, but it happens. Just the luck of the draw.

Vanquish really does have awesome customer service so they'll take care of this quickly. I've never had to fight for them to make it right when I've had issues.
 
Had to go back and dig this up as I knew someone had ran into this before. Unfortunately I just ran into what sounds like a very similar issue, however mine seems to be on the long end of the universal. It took A LOT of elbow grease to get the bearing seated, and even once it is seated as far as it will go it is preventing me from being able to attach the steering knuckle correctly. I can only get one screw to line up correctly and the other will only go in without the sleeve and even then it’s not a good fit and causes binding. Without the universal in it appears as if everything would like up just fine.

I was glad to hear I’m not the only one that ran into this, but am bummed it happened. Fired off an email to VP support and hoping to have a new uni sometime soon so I can keep moving forward.

Yeah it's a bummer, but it happens. Just the luck of the draw.

Vanquish really does have awesome customer service so they'll take care of this quickly. I've never had to fight for them to make it right when I've had issues.

Looks like I'll have to pay attention for this. This is with the original Origin kit right? Does it affect both the Origin and the Pro or just the Origin?
 
Looks like I'll have to pay attention for this. This is with the original Origin kit right? Does it affect both the Origin and the Pro or just the Origin?

I think the similarity would be D44 axles as Jatos came in the kit and I got mine as separate parts. With that being said the universals should be the same in each axle though and I think that’s the culprit with how extremely difficult it was to get the bearing seated. I tried several bearings as well.

Already got a response from VP this morning and just sent them some pics so fingers crossed this will be resolved soon and won’t slow down my build much.

In the meantime I’ll continue to ogle at all the sweet builds here.
 
Looks like I'll have to pay attention for this. This is with the original Origin kit right? Does it affect both the Origin and the Pro or just the Origin?

I've seen the bearing seat be too large on universals from various brands. It's not unique to VP or this truck in my experience.

Often, the fix is simple. Put the universal in a drill, get some sandpaper, and hit the seat for a few seconds. In this case mine was also bent or something like that so I couldn't fix that issue myself.


I think the similarity would be D44 axles as Jatos came in the kit and I got mine as separate parts. With that being said the universals should be the same in each axle though and I think that’s the culprit with how extremely difficult it was to get the bearing seated. I tried several bearings as well.

Already got a response from VP this morning and just sent them some pics so fingers crossed this will be resolved soon and won’t slow down my build much.

In the meantime I’ll continue to ogle at all the sweet builds here.

I gotta paint my interior, decal it, and then wait to get the body from the painter and I'll be able to put it all together. I'm farming out my paint for the first time. It's a simple paint job, but it'll save me a ton of hassle and it should look better than what I could do. I'm anxious to receive it.
 
Another odd issue I see you guys are having with the bearing seats![emoji3166]

I must have been lucky with my Origin. All of my bearings fit like a good pair of gloves!

Can’t wait to see to see the finished body Jato!


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 
I've seen the bearing seat be too large on universals from various brands. It's not unique to VP or this truck in my experience.

Often, the fix is simple. Put the universal in a drill, get some sandpaper, and hit the seat for a few seconds. In this case mine was also bent or something like that so I couldn't fix that issue myself.




I gotta paint my interior, decal it, and then wait to get the body from the painter and I'll be able to put it all together. I'm farming out my paint for the first time. It's a simple paint job, but it'll save me a ton of hassle and it should look better than what I could do. I'm anxious to receive it.

Mind if I ask who you farmed it out to? If it’d a professional outfit anyhow. Painting is definitely a hassle. I have 3 sitting around and the thought of trimming, masking, mounting, painting, and finishing touches is daunting. Can’t wait to see how it comes out either!


I think the similarity would be D44 axles as Jatos came in the kit and I got mine as separate parts. With that being said the universals should be the same in each axle though and I think that’s the culprit with how extremely difficult it was to get the bearing seated. I tried several bearings as well.

Already got a response from VP this morning and just sent them some pics so fingers crossed this will be resolved soon and won’t slow down my build much.

In the meantime I’ll continue to ogle at all the sweet builds here.

Small update here but I’ll go into more detail in my thread. Long story short the VP axle and Universal were not the culprit, it was just that one knuckle.
 
Mind if I ask who you farmed it out to? If it’d a professional outfit anyhow. Painting is definitely a hassle. I have 3 sitting around and the thought of trimming, masking, mounting, painting, and finishing touches is daunting. Can’t wait to see how it comes out either!

Small update here but I’ll go into more detail in my thread. Long story short the VP axle and Universal were not the culprit, it was just that one knuckle.

A very local guy. He doesn't really have a business or anything. He just does it as side work.

I was worried mine might be a knuckle, but the new universal fixed it no problem.
 
This truck is fast on the recommended 3100kv on 3S. I bought a 10T to calm it down.




I have the gears meshed fine. I'd honestly like them a little tighter, but I couldn't go any closer with the motor plate that I have. I hate embiggening the slots and making it look like a drunk with Parkinson's did it so I chose not to. Some people are saying they are getting 9T gears to mesh and I have no idea how. Anyway, 10T calmed it down, but it's still going to be a fast truck. I had this motor sitting around, but if I buy another it will be a lower kv.




When I removed the transmission to change the pinion, I also tried to remove this spacer to lower the motor and transmission weight down every so slightly. When I did this one of the link ends hit my ROC412 motor so I kept the spacer installed.




I also ordered up a Traxxas waterproof receiver box. I'm not sure I'll even need it, but better than having a run cut short by a little bit of water and having to carry this relatively heavy truck back to my car.




Awesomely enough, the holes in the receiver box line right up with the holes in the electronics plate. It's almost like Vanquish meant this to happen. :ror:




Mine does't line up perfectly. The box is deformed ever so slightly after the install onto the chassis. After reading online this may be because I used larger hardware to mount it, but the holes that were there wouldn't grab anything smaller. So maybe the eBay take-off disassembler turned forgot lefty loosey. I'm not positive about this though so I just used a larger diameter screw and dealt with the small deformation.




When installing the pinion and receiver box, I noticed that the other rear, inner fender was cracking at the mounts. :evil: Good thing I received the new, inner fenders in the meantime. After painting them black I noticed the changed that Brandon and others mentioned. You can see where the fenders where cut before whereas they are cut now. They should follow the chassis now. Thumbs up for this revision. "thumbsup"

 
I had not received any word from the painter on the status of my body, but I started the interior so it would be ready when the body got here. I was going to paint it some sort of tan and black, but instead I took the lazy way out and went all black. I think it'll look better with the orange bod anyway.

I love Molotow chrome pens for interiors parts! :mrgreen: Notice, I even chromed the screw.




They're also awesome for adding reflectivity to light buckets.




I ordered up Cato to drive this beast. I stole the idea from svt923. To me surprise, said king did not tell the peasants that there is no bendage in the appendages.




Hmm. Do I cut him? Do I give him hot pants and bend him? Nope! I will give him medieval torture.

First we rip him in half. Off with your legs!




This is when I realized that you aren't going to see his legs so I took the shortcut (there's that lazy thing again) and just used the torso. The torso, itself, was too tall so time for some more torture. May the odds forever be in your favor, Cato!

It also gave me a chance to try out my still yet to be used toy. A Ryobi rotary tool AKA Dremel-like thingy.




With little trouble at all, Ryobi sliced this tribute with no trouble at all.




Cato, being the coward that he is, soiled himself whilst trimming his body. This stuff really did look like scale pewp in color and consistency when it was hot and melted. :lmao: The picture really doesn't show it...I guess you had to be there.




Of course, after "all" the work of painting and stickering the interior I forgot to take an overall photo. You can see some of it below with the driver.




Cato was held in with E6000 - something every RC modifier should have. If this doesn't work, he will get more torture in the form of a wood screw into his core.




That was gruesome. I can't believe you guys are still here! Sickos! :mrgreen:


It turns out my typically awkward timing was perfect today. Just after painting the interior I received word from the painter that the body was ready to be picked up! Now to convince my girlfriend to change plans...

...well that didn't take much convincing. "thumbsup"


Well, well, well...look what we have here! Yes, it's a simple paint job, but it saves me from doing something that I hate.

 
The body is awesome. The Scout is a good looking truck and Vanquish's take on it is well done. The body is thick, laser cut (every company should be doing this!), and just high quality overall. Same goes for the hard, plastic accessories which is something that almost every Lexan body should have these days!

Sadly, my body has corns so let's take care of that.




Wait...what? I keed, I keed! I like to use corn cushions for her protection. This $1 pack of corn cushions is a great way to protect your body and not overpay for the RC-specific versions. This idea was stolen from OSRC years ago.

It protects the paint on your body as well as minimizing the very not scale noise of Lexan rattling through the woods.




The scale radiator and dual fans are very cool. They are used to clamp to hold the grille in place as well as filling up the grille. I'm sure the radiator and/or fans will be used on other trucks to add some scaleness. These are great pieces that look high quality and they feel high quality because they have heft. I found this to be very odd since you won't see anything other than the front side though the grille on this truck unless you like looking inside of the body when you remove it. Because of this, I think this could have been a simpler and much lighter part.




I went back and forth between leaving the radiator powder coated steel (black) or aluminium (silver and let's add the extra syllables to that word to represent our forefathers :lmao: ). In the end I decided silver to give it some contrast and help set it off and make it easier to see through the grille.

I only had polycarbonate paint in silver so I gave it a shot. Looks good to me! "thumbsup"




The back is still unpainted because nobody will know...unless you snitches tell them! :twisted:

This looks very reminiscent of the Axial fans and covers. Probably no surprise as, I believe, more than one Vanquish staffers are formerly of Axial.




I think I made the right choice going with an aluminum radiator.




And here is the radiator installed along with the headlight buckets (using iPhone flash this time). I was set on getting a light kit for this truck, but they are sometimes a PITA to deal with so I may end up not getting one. I go back and forth on this so let's leave it as TBD. I love the small "bolts" surrounding the headlights for a very mechanical look. Awesome sauce! "thumbsup"




I thought it was odd that the windshield wipers had thru holes instead of a blind hole. Even odder still is that the supplied screw is chrome instead of black. I tried finding a black 1-64 screw for this and I could not. No big deal. I can hit it with a Sharpie or paint. I kinda like the different color pivot though so maybe it'll stay. The windshield wipers, BTW, are very cool.




Ayo Cato! (where my DMX fans at?!)

I believe Cato fits very well after his umm, forced diet.






Are you ready for the big reveal?! I'm sure most of you are thinking, "Just shut up and show us the damn truck already!" Your wish is my commend! All the Facebook and Instagram traitors, like myself, will have already seen some of these shots.












I love the look of this truck and I hope you do too! I need some scale hubs to finish it off. I don't like hubs, such as those from Vanquish, where you need to remove the six SLW screws to remove the wheel. I'll probably go with SSD or LURC.

I'm also torn on adding stripes. I like the truck as-is, but if I can find somebody to make black Rallye stripes for me I may just try those.

I also need to get out my super pointy Sharpie and give this orange blob some body lines. That makes such a difference, but I rarely do it because my lines are about as straight as Ellen Degeneres. :mrgreen: It's OK...calm down...I watch Ellen's Game of Games on occasion.

Hopefully the next update will be me getting this truck dirty on the trail. The first scratch will hurt. It's so damn pretty!

Overall, I'm very happy with this build. It was fun and easy and the parts are mostly very high quality. The truck is hefty. It feels solid and high quality. It crawled right up my jeans in my unofficial official leg crawl test. I hope this is a great sign of how it will work in the wild. I'm going to try to keep this a trail truck and remind myself of that, but if you know me or ask the guys that I trail with, I'll probably be beating on in it no time. And I'm sure it'll take most everything I can dish out.

My only major complaint is that the quality of the anodizing is poor. The axles scratched very easily during assembly and things like the bumpers had obvious flaws in the coating. I even sent back two wheel faces with pretty bad anodizing marks. In the past, I've read that Vanquish had the best anodizing so I'm not sure if something changed or what.

For a first attempt, I have to say the Vanquish guys did an awesome job here. Yes, it's a simple design compared to some other trucks, including their own Pro, and it has some issues, but this is their first attempt! I'm excited to see what they do in the future. Congratulations, thank you and sorry again - Your New Fan! "thumbsup"

Now I can't wait to build a Pro. Let's run this truck a few times though before I go and do that.

*Fine print: No Harley Davidson's were harmed in the making of this truck. :flipoff:
 
Truck looks awesome! Paint is simple but it’s clean and sharp.

Great to know about the traxxas receiver box, we don’t run into much water out here but that’s an awesome tip for those that do. I vote silver radiator all day, too cool of a piece to have for a body set to be hidden in black behind a black grill.

Great looking rig jato!
 
Back
Top