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Jato's Bumpy Road to Fordyce

I've got the mamba x/slate 2850 in my TTC phoenix. It's a good setup. Plenty of wheel speed for trailing on 3s. Mine is geared a bit lower so i can also run 4s.

Not sure what's up with SSD. Their internet presence has never been good. No social media and a half ass website. Those wheels do look good on there.
 
Don't mind the slow response on this question, I'm still catching up on RCC content these days.

Look for the Turbo Racing RX41 receiver. They run $10-16 depending on where you order from and are available from all your favorite providers of fine Chinese electronics (Amazon, Ebay, AliExpress, Banggood, etc.).
I've noticed. Hopefully you make your way back as one of the valued members of RCC.

Thank you for the info! I am definitely going to look these up now. And as I play with the radio, I will see if I like it as much as my FlySky GT5...not that I love that radio, but it does that job.

I've got the mamba x/slate 2850 in my TTC phoenix. It's a good setup. Plenty of wheel speed for trailing on 3s. Mine is geared a bit lower so i can also run 4s.

Not sure what's up with SSD. Their internet presence has never been good. No social media and a half ass website. Those wheels do look good on there.
Good info. Thank you. You've helped me make my mind up. The Mamba X and Slate motor are going in this truck at least to start. Now I have to pick a servo out of my fleet.

Thanks!
 
I've noticed. Hopefully you make your way back as one of the valued members of RCC.

I'm slowly getting back into the groove.

For 3 years, I was running a RC business, developing products, and attending events while still holding down a 9-5 job. We sold the business almost 2 years ago and the burn out is finally starting to fade.
 
I'm slowly getting back into the groove.

For 3 years, I was running a RC business, developing products, and attending events while still holding down a 9-5 job. We sold the business almost 2 years ago and the burn out is finally starting to fade.
We're getting back in around the same time then.

Yes, stock gearing ... I believe


Edit > just checked ... stock gearing it is
Thank you!
 
I’ll throw my $0.02 in…

I’m personally not a fan of the mamba’s these days. I had x’s and micro x’s and I could never get the smooth low end control I wanted, and considering the price I was disappointed. I would highly recommend a fusion pro and even a fusion se over the castle setup. Unless you are wanting to run 4s of course.

These days the fusion se is my go to, hard to beat for the money.

As far as the shock situation, one thing you will run into is fitment issues with anything that has a bigger body than the stock shocks. I would say it might be worth trying the tips I’ve seen on fb, teflon tape on the cap threads, and an oversized bleeder screw (2.5mm maybe?)

Otherwise I would probably try a trx4 shock since those have always worked well for me.
 
I'd second the vote for trx4 shocks. They take a little break in but do not leak.

I have the trx4 shocks on a phoenix straight axle kit using the original vp springs and hane no clearance issues. Truck is 9lbs but I don't feel like I have excessive preload on the springs either.

The element shocks are a close second. I haven't noticed a difference between the fancy FT version and the standard silver gatekeeper version.
 
Fusion Pros are awesome, but sometimes you want a bit more wheel speed and punch than the 2300 will give. I wish Hobbywing would make them 4s capable or make a 3s one in the 2700-3000kv range.

As for the mamba x and low end, i usually make a custom curve in the software and maybe play a bit with expo on my radio and its pretty darn smooth. Not AM32 and revolver smooth, but good enough for a rrail rig.
 
I'm with twade. I have recently pulled my Mamba X/Slate combos out of all of my rigs and have replaced them with HW Fusion's. The Fusion's are much simpler, takes up less room, weigh less and these Fusion's are super smooth and can creep very sloooowly.

I also like the TRX-4 GTS shocks. I have a set on my VS4-10 Pro. Very smooth and leak free. They have been on that rig for years sitting on the shelf and not hint of leakage. Just took out the Pro last weekend for the first time and the shocks did great and still are showing no signs of leakage.

Element shocks are nice too. I have many sets of those and all seem to be leak free and they are always smooth as silk.

I'll probably get flamed for this, but I do really like the Vanquish S8E shocks in both 80 & 90mm. I have many sets on my other VP rigs and they are fantastic. So smooth and all of them are leak free. When built right, these do not spew oil like many have said they do.

Glad to see you are back at the bench with the rigs Jato and getting some wheel time out on that great terrain the you have!
 
I’ll throw my $0.02 in…

I’m personally not a fan of the mamba’s these days. I had x’s and micro x’s and I could never get the smooth low end control I wanted, and considering the price I was disappointed. I would highly recommend a fusion pro and even a fusion se over the castle setup. Unless you are wanting to run 4s of course.

These days the fusion se is my go to, hard to beat for the money.

As far as the shock situation, one thing you will run into is fitment issues with anything that has a bigger body than the stock shocks. I would say it might be worth trying the tips I’ve seen on fb, teflon tape on the cap threads, and an oversized bleeder screw (2.5mm maybe?)

Otherwise I would probably try a trx4 shock since those have always worked well for me.
I'm just getting back into the hobby so I won't know any different restarting with the Mamba X. I don't ever remember not liking it. It was the first Castle product that I ever really loved. Used to be a Castle hater because the SV3 was a giant POS. I hate that thing. Remember the good ol' days when it was the ESC that came in Axial RTRs? I have these electronics laying around so I may as well try them. I can always upgrade to the Fusion Pro or SE should I see fit.

I bought parts and had the intentions to work on the S8E shocks per some of the FB threads, but it just doesn't feel worth it. Good shocks have a better design and just don't leak even without using voodoo.

I'd second the vote for trx4 shocks. They take a little break in but do not leak.

I have the trx4 shocks on a phoenix straight axle kit using the original vp springs and hane no clearance issues. Truck is 9lbs but I don't feel like I have excessive preload on the springs either.

The element shocks are a close second. I haven't noticed a difference between the fancy FT version and the standard silver gatekeeper version.
I love Traxxas GTS shocks. Traxxas is one of the best in the business at shocks. I just have to see if the stock Fordyce springs work with these shocks. I have a set of GTS laying on my table so I am definitely going to install them.

From what I understand the Element shocks are larger in diameter and not as scale looking so I don't really want to make the switch to those shocks, but Team Associated, Element's parent company, makes great shocks as well.

Fusion Pros are awesome, but sometimes you want a bit more wheel speed and punch than the 2300 will give. I wish Hobbywing would make them 4s capable or make a 3s one in the 2700-3000kv range.

As for the mamba x and low end, i usually make a custom curve in the software and maybe play a bit with expo on my radio and its pretty darn smooth. Not AM32 and revolver smooth, but good enough for a rrail rig.
I will be sticking to 3S I think. Stock pinion is 13T and the pinion already installed on the Slate motor from the VS4-10 Ultra is a 15T. Not sure what I am going to start with. I do know that the 13T pinion is stuck on the stock motor like a sunuvagun and I don't have a pinion puller.

Yep, I agree. With a custom ESC throttle curve and expo on the radio, it is easier to make things smooth down low. I don't have experience with an AM32 so I haven't been spoiled by that experience yet.

I'm with twade. I have recently pulled my Mamba X/Slate combos out of all of my rigs and have replaced them with HW Fusion's. The Fusion's are much simpler, takes up less room, weigh less and these Fusion's are super smooth and can creep very sloooowly.

I also like the TRX-4 GTS shocks. I have a set on my VS4-10 Pro. Very smooth and leak free. They have been on that rig for years sitting on the shelf and not hint of leakage. Just took out the Pro last weekend for the first time and the shocks did great and still are showing no signs of leakage.

Element shocks are nice too. I have many sets of those and all seem to be leak free and they are always smooth as silk.

I'll probably get flamed for this, but I do really like the Vanquish S8E shocks in both 80 & 90mm. I have many sets on my other VP rigs and they are fantastic. So smooth and all of them are leak free. When built right, these do not spew oil like many have said they do.

Glad to see you are back at the bench with the rigs Jato and getting some wheel time out on that great terrain the you have!
I'll have to play with the Fusion Pro in my VRD before I find out how much I like it. As I said above, the Mamba X and Slate are laying around unused so I may as well give them a try.

I love the GTS shocks so I am going to give them a try. I have a take-off set from eBay just laying on my table that will get installed on this truck. I'll have to see if I like the stock GTS springs or the Vanquish springs better to start. Without measuring, I think the Traxxas GTS shocks are 90mm eye-to-eye whereas the stock S8E shocks on the Fordcye are 95mm due to the lower shock end. They give you shorter rod ends in the kit. If so, it will be a nice bonus to lower the truck 5mm. I will probably have to trim the body, but it already cracked on the front fender so it shouldn't be all that painful for me to make the first cut.
 
I started trying to transplant the 2850KV Castle Slate motor from the Ultra into this truck. I ran into a slight hiccup. The threads in the motor are screwed up. I kind of remember this from my Ultra build.

With my weak, post-car-crushed, double-compound-fractured hand, I snapped the head off motor mounting screw. There are enough threads hanging out of the motor that I could work the screw out with a pliers, but I just stopped and searched for a replacement motor cap from Castle. Thankfully they offer this part so I placed an order on AMain. Of course, you can't order just one thing. And this, my friends, is where RC gets fun, addicting and super expensive.





I also got new motor screws with motor plate screw washers (these are larger in diameter than the "washer head" screws that Vanquish includes in some or all of their kits), an aluminum motor plate like how it should have came from the factory as using the plastic plate one time can leave indents and then adjusting the gear mesh to any other location is difficult, metal standoffs for the transmission (probably completely unnecessary), and underdrive for the rear as the stock 6.5% overdrive isn't enough for my liking. The underdrive gears provide a 9.5% increase in overdrive which should leave me with a total of 17%. That should be a nice spot for a trail truck. I didn't want to get the 21% overdrive transfer case gears and then have a total overdrive of 26.5%. That would probably have been a little excessive for a trail rig. Thankfully, I watched some of Harley's Fordyce budget build videos to be reminded that I also had to order the spool.




Today the Vanquish grey and blue wheels are looking better to me. Maybe I can find blue rings for the SSD Rock Racer wheels. Not sure if I like the shade of blue that SSD offers. I have no recollection of which brand rings, if any, fit SSD wheels.
 
My plan was to drift in the house with my LDRC RX-7 after I installed the Dasmikro gyro, but the correct connectors weren't included. So after some stock drifting, I got to work on the Fordyce. Man, shouldn't this truck have come with a Ford body? Afterall, it is the FORDyce... 😝

Anyway, here are the parts received with this shipment. Vanquish 33/8 underdrive ring and pinion gear, motor washers, TLR screws that should be compatible with the motor washers, aluminum VFD transmission standoffs, spool for the UD gears, and the aluminum motor plate that should have come with the truck. I don't care what anybody says, plastic motor plates can go to hell. I am still awaiting the Castle motor end.




Let's tear up that rear end first. I am a butt man! 😜 The anodized red fill cap has always sparked the childish nerd in me. It's just such a cool little scale touch! Vanquish could have cheaped out here and included a plastic cap, but I like that they didn't. The anodized red cap is one of my favorite scale touches on any RC.




Here is the stock third member. You can see the grease used is a small amount and also not the light blue Vanquish grease that I will be using. I do wish Vanquish would sell these metal bearing retainers separately so I could replace the plastic parts without having to buy the aluminum third member. Not much grease here, but at least there was some grease. I did notice more than one of the screws were loose and I did not see any thread lock. That's a first for me and an RTR. I'd rather have loose screws instead of stripped holes, but this one doesn't seem to have been assembled with care.




The new ring gear, spool, pinion, screws and shim at the top and the old ring and pinion gears at the bottom. It was nice that VP included screws and a shim. My truck already had a shim on the output between the third member and the driveshaft so be careful to not install both. That would have bound things up for me. YMMV.




Ring gear attached to the spool. The spool is required because the stock pinion gear is cast with the spool being part of it as you can see two photos above. Assembling the new ring gear to the spool is still a less than smooth process and always has been for as long as I have been assembling VP rigs. The screw heads contact the spool and make for some tight and notchy screwing. You don't want this type of screwing to be tight...





While I was tearing up her rear, I installed the Traxxas GTS shocks. Apparently I really like these shocks as well because I have three, yes 3, sets at my house that I bought on eBay from take-off resellers. As you can see, the Vanquish S8E leakers are significantly longer than the GTS shocks. Basically the Traxxas GTS are 90mm eye to eye whereas the Vanquish S8E are 95mm. Again, you can shorten the Vanquish shocks with the included lower shock ends, but I prefer my shocks to hold oil. I did remove the pivot balls from both ends of the S8E and they fit perfectly in the GTS shocks. That's a design win. The Traxxas balls were not the correct width for this truck.




Next up, let's get into the transmission. The aluminum standoffs probably do next to nothing, but they were $10 and I am a sucker. The one drawback of those is that they do not have the cross-drilled hole to hold them while tightening the screws like is present in the plastic parts. Not a huge deal though as it doesn't take much to hold these until the screws are tight.




Plastic motor plate on the left versus the aluminum plate on the right. On the plastic motor plate, you can see where the screws started digging into it. This makes for very difficult motor adjustments as the screw heads want to always fall in these same ruts. No thanks. The aluminum motor plate is expensive, and one could argue overpriced, but I will take it over the plastic garbage. You could also pay the $9 for the plastic tree that includes a new motor plate and go that route.




The assembled VFD transmission plus the new leftovers.

 
Aluminum bearing retainers should be offered separately. I installed the aluminum third members on 3 out of 4 of my F10 axled trucks but if I had the option, I would have probably just gotten the bearing retainers.

For your motor problem, I suppose its a little late, but Holmes Puller Pros are on sale right now for $50 for the stubby and $55 for full size. Thats a heck of a deal. As for the shocks, looks like you wont lose much if any travel. Overall length just looks a few mm shorter due to rod ends. Should be a good upgrade.
 
Here is the stock third member. You can see the grease used is a small amount and also not the light blue Vanquish grease that I will be using. I do wish Vanquish would sell these metal bearing retainers separately so I could replace the plastic parts without having to buy the aluminum third member. Not much grease here, but at least there was some grease. I did notice more than one of the screws were loose and I did not see any thread lock. That's a first for me and an RTR. I'd rather have loose screws instead of stripped holes, but this one doesn't seem to have been assembled with care.
You could probably call them up and convince them to sell or send you a set or two if you asked nicely. Otherwise you're left with buying the aluminum 3rd member. Which realistically isn't a bad way to go as you'll get much better pinion and spur bearing support.
 
Nice upgrades. I always install them VFD parts in all of my transmissions. It eases my mind knowing that the aluminum will not flex and cause any issues.

Good choice on the GTS shocks. I currently have them on my VP PRO and like I said previously, they have not dribbled any oil in years. I just sent you a DM about the S8E shock rebuild. Hope you can get them sealed up. IMO, they are a great shock.
 
Aluminum bearing retainers should be offered separately. I installed the aluminum third members on 3 out of 4 of my F10 axled trucks but if I had the option, I would have probably just gotten the bearing retainers.

For your motor problem, I suppose its a little late, but Holmes Puller Pros are on sale right now for $50 for the stubby and $55 for full size. Thats a heck of a deal. As for the shocks, looks like you wont lose much if any travel. Overall length just looks a few mm shorter due to rod ends. Should be a good upgrade.
The Puller Pro Stubby won't fit with the Vanquish Stubby kit. The Puller Pro Stubby is 45mm and the Vanquish Stubby kit allows 35mm long motors at max.

You could probably call them up and convince them to sell or send you a set or two if you asked nicely. Otherwise you're left with buying the aluminum 3rd member. Which realistically isn't a bad way to go as you'll get much better pinion and spur bearing support.
I don't want an aluminum part on plastic axles. Aluminum catches on rocks more than plastic.

Nice upgrades. I always install them VFD parts in all of my transmissions. It eases my mind knowing that the aluminum will not flex and cause any issues.

Good choice on the GTS shocks. I currently have them on my VP PRO and like I said previously, they have not dribbled any oil in years. I just sent you a DM about the S8E shock rebuild. Hope you can get them sealed up. IMO, they are a great shock.
Thank you for the nice words and your help!
 
Solid upgrades man

If I’m not mistaken the only real downside to the GTS shocks is a slightly longer compressed length than the incision shocks. In this application it will hardly be a limiting factor
 
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