• Welcome to RCCrawler Forums.

    It looks like you're enjoying RCCrawler's Forums but haven't created an account yet. Why not take a minute to register for your own free account now? As a member you get free access to all of our forums and posts plus the ability to post your own messages, communicate directly with other members, and much more. Register now!

    Already a member? Login at the top of this page to stop seeing this message.
I hear you on the paint ... its all about the prep work, pre-organization and taking your time. Just like building is about enjoying it and I also pretty lucky to be here on So-Cal where paint is not a problem due to weather. Tamiya paint usually dries quick here. I admit though sometimes I do rush in between coats.
Taking your time...that has always been a problem for adult me. I had tons of patience as a child. As an adult, I have very little! I can prep and do everything in my power to make things go smoothly and then something will go wrong like the can spritzing droplets, a bug landing on a paint, or something like that and then what little patience I have goes out the window. I just want to be finished painting so, like you, I rush between coats and often make them too heavy.
 
I finally did a thing...I got some friggin' paint on the Stance body! I decided to try Tamiya's PS-47 Iridescent Purple/Green a shot. I should have taken some photos of this along the way, but I was two coats in with this paint and barely noticed any coloring on the body. You have to back this paint with Tamiya PS-5 Black so I was afraid. If you know me and paint, you know that if it can go wrong with paint it will go wrong for me! :ROFLMAO: But I laid down two more coats of the PS-47 and ended up finishing the can. I swear Tamiya used to put more paint in that can! 😲 Then I backed it with black per the directions. And, surprisingly, it turned out just fine! I really like it. My girlfriend's son's love of purple may be rubbing off on me... I loved purple as a kid and then grew out of it, but this looks like anodized purple that turns to green and it is sweet! I'm pretty happy with this color and will be using it again.

This video shows it best, but a photo follow as well. CLICK the first image and it becomes a video.







I do have to say Vanquish's overfilm and window masks suck huge balls! First, the rear window mask ripped when I tried moving it. So I had to finish maskign the rear window with masking tape. Then after paint, it was hard to remove the masks and they kept tearing leaving behind small remnants and a bunch of adhesive. I have to find a way to remove the adhesive without scratching up the windows or fogging the Lexan. Please let me know what you've used with success to remove glue from polycarbonate bodies.

Also, the overfilm kept tearing as I was pulling that off. Super frustrating masks and overfilm. Or as this sticker says, they are a pain in my Rear





Now the only thing left on this truck is to see if I'm finished with decals that I started last night. I think I'm going to stop where I'm at with decals, but I want to see it out in sunlight. Then the final step is shocks. I currently have built, but not filled S8E kit shocks on it, but I think I'm switching them out with Traxxas GTS and using the kit springs. I may try to order some machined shock pistons from Vanquish and eventually build the S8E shocks to see how they hold up for me.
 
They do seem to use the cheapest masking tape available. Pick it off with your fingernail then either use a small piece of good masking tape and blot it on the residue a few times and it will usually come off clean. If not, use a little rubbing alcohol on a rag.

ETA: Since you're running a bit larger battery, there are several files out there for 3d printed battery trays that will put the battery right behind the transmission. It is a little further back than the slider obviously, but the weight would be better balanced side to side.
 
Last edited:
They do seem to use the cheapest masking tape available. Pick it off with your fingernail then either use a small piece of good masking tape and blot it on the residue a few times and it will usually come off clean. If not, use a little rubbing alcohol on a rag.

ETA: Since you're running a bit larger battery, there are several files out there for 3d printed battery trays that will put the battery right behind the transmission. It is a little further back than the slider obviously, but the weight would be better balanced side to side.

The tape is mostly off. The photo was taken before I removed it. Sometimes alcohol works, but I was hoping there was something better that wouldn't damage the Lexan.

I'm now going to run GOLDBAT 1500 mAh 3S LiPo batteries that I have for my Capra. They're pretty small. I did see some of the models for printing battery trays, but honestly the ones I've seen suck. I can model a better version of my own. Just have not gotten that far. For now the battery works just fine in the stock location on the slider.
 
We got a finished body! I originally planned to install these orange decals to tie the paint scheme to the wheels But after painting the body I wasn't sure. Also thought blue decals would look good with the purple and green of the body. Also considered leaving the colored "stripe" decals off entirely. I decided to stick to the original plan and I like it! First "photo" is a video if you click on it showing the chameleon effect of the paint.

I keep forgetting I have empty shocks on this thing until I compress the suspension and they just stick. Need to transplant Traxxas GTS onto this truck and then order up some machined pistons for the S8E shocks and some heavier 70-ish weight oil apparently.








 
Looking awesome! And those Tusks, when you know you know. Make sure it doesn't pull the rocks away from the ground, that thing looks capable!
 
Looking awesome! And those Tusks, when you know you know. Make sure it doesn't pull the rocks away from the ground, that thing looks capable!

Thank you! This rig will be the first time ever using Tusks. Looking forward to trying them out.
 
I was about to get 4 but then they were out of stock etc. I have a set of 3.93 for sale because... I ordered the wrong size. They're amazing tires in all compounds but I'd get ~~Predator~~ (I wrote Predator, I meant GREEN ;)) just for maximum fluffage ✓not a word
 
Last edited:
I was about to get 4 but then they were out of stock etc. I have a set of 3.93 for sale because... I ordered the wrong size. They're amazing tires in all compounds but I'd get Predator just for maximum fluffage ✓not a word
Predator is Proline. Tusks are from JConcepts. Proline has tires that look similar to the Tusks. They are officially licensed Mickey Thompson Baja Pro X, but IMO they are ugly whereas that Tusks look good.
 
You are absolutely right, I meant their Green and automatically went 'Proline mode'. In my limited testing the JConcepts Tusks have pulled lines that were right around insane. I am not sure how they fare with heavy rigs and on the trails, but for technical stuff I'd say they're in the Top 3 tread+compound ever made. Again: IMHO.
 
The tape is mostly off. The photo was taken before I removed it. Sometimes alcohol works, but I was hoping there was something better that wouldn't damage the Lexan.
Tamiya polycarbonate cleaner

I had to order it off Amazon and wait for it to be shipped from somewhere in Asia.

Works great and does not etch the lexan like isopropyl alcohol does.

Not sure why Tamiya polycarbonate cleaner isn't available in the states and neither did 2 hobby shops or the hardware store that sells Tamiya paints.

Make sure you put the cap back on though. It evaporates quickly like acetone (but it's not acetone).
 
Tamiya polycarbonate cleaner

I had to order it off Amazon and wait for it to be shipped from somewhere in Asia.

Works great and does not etch the lexan like isopropyl alcohol does.

Not sure why Tamiya polycarbonate cleaner isn't available in the states and neither did 2 hobby shops or the hardware store that sells Tamiya paints.

Make sure you put the cap back on though. It evaporates quickly like acetone (but it's not acetone).
I have some of that somewhere. No idea where. That's the problem. Honestly forgot about it. But I'm pretty sure I also had to order it from Asia.

Anyway, a guy on Tamiya Club told me olive oil and that actually worked!

Does isopropyl alcohol etch Lexan? I've never had a problem with that. And I used to wipe the insides of bodies down with alcohol.
 
If you're done painting then Olive oil for sure. Also wd40 takes off adhesive very well but not sure if it reacts with the lexan.

Alcohol does indeed etch into polycarbonate ever so slightly. It may not cause any problems if used lightly but I've had problems with it in a few different situations. It actually melted paint that seeped under the tape into a polycarbonate body that then made the paint not come off with the Tamiya stuff.

Also back in the day I exploded a shock on the dyno that sprayed shock oil all over the polycarbonate protective screens. I used alcohol to try to clean it which sort of worked until the lab tech said not to because it made the polycarbonate hazy and sure enough after I finally got them clean with a mild degreaser type cleaner (formula 409 I think) they were hazy. Luckily not bad enough they had to be replaced.
 
I'm now going to run GOLDBAT 1500 mAh 3S LiPo batteries that I have for my Capra. They're pretty small. I did see some of the models for printing battery trays, but honestly the ones I've seen suck. I can model a better version of my own. Just have not gotten that far. For now the battery works just fine in the stock location on the slider.
I printed up several different trays but ultimately decided on this one: Vanquish VRD Carbon Stance Battery Tray by dinger316

It is low and clean looking.
 
It goes directly behind the transmission. The little notch right by the strap holder is to clear the transmission. Two screws on each side hold it between the chassis rails. I'll try to remember and get a pic tonight. I run a few different sizes of 3s (850mah, 1300,mah, or 2200mah) on this truck depending on the event and those all fit fine and it feels durable.

I printed a couple simple looking trays but they did not feel durable and/or did not look good. I also printed a fancy looking tray from Cults but it was an odd size and was not so flexible with batteries.
 
It goes directly behind the transmission. The little notch right by the strap holder is to clear the transmission. Two screws on each side hold it between the chassis rails. I'll try to remember and get a pic tonight. I run a few different sizes of 3s (850mah, 1300,mah, or 2200mah) on this truck depending on the event and those all fit fine and it feels durable.

I printed a couple simple looking trays but they did not feel durable and/or did not look good. I also printed a fancy looking tray from Cults but it was an odd size and was not so flexible with batteries.
Good to know. I saw that tray in my searches, but assumed it was just a side tray replacement. I'll have to give it a second look especially if I like it in your photos.
 
Thank you. I didn't even see your photo until last night. I just went ahead and printed it shortly after getting home last night knowing it would be a quick print. I really like it! Thanks for the recommendation! It fits perfectly in the unused spot and sits low. Definitely perfect for tiny batteries. And I found four of these 3S 1500mAh GOLDBAT LiPos that I bought for my Capra.






Next up, it was time to finally get the shocks out of the way. I found Traxxas GTS shocks in my stash as well as these Dravtech wannabes. From left to right, Vanquish S8E with included hard anodized bodies, Traxxas GTS and Traxxas Big Bore shocks modified to use Mini-T springs.

It is difficult to tell from my photos, but the GTS shocks are a few mm taller than the S8E in both fully extended and fully compressed states. This extra length really isn't desirable, but you take the good with the bad sometimes. The Big Bores are way longer and I didn't even consider those after this comparison. What I did was take the stock springs and ball ends from the stock S8E shocks and installed those on the Traxxas GTS shocks. Then the Traxxas GTS shocks bolt right up to this truck. The S8E springs are shorter than those from the GTS so you also have to add more preload to capture the springs and not lose the lower spring seat. I could and probably should buy the optional ones that are captured by a screw or by the lower shock end. I guess I will find out how the GTS perform on this truck. Honestly, I'm not a big suspension adjustment guy. I just build trucks, run them, and learn to adapt to the strengths and weaknesses of the truck. I would be open to a "perfect" shock for this truck though. No interference issues that you may run into when using the GTS on a Vanquish VS4-10 with the spring preload collar hitting the shock towers. The GTS shocks fit perfectly on this truck. Nice! (y)




So I can officially, and finally, say the VRD Carbon build is complete! This truck is in my truck and I plan to take it to Watkins Glen this weekend in case my girlfriend and I encounter trails. Don't mind the mess in the background of these photos. I don't know if you guys are like me, but you make way more of a mess than fathomable after working on just two or three RC's!


 
Thank you. I didn't even see your photo until last night. I just went ahead and printed it shortly after getting home last night knowing it would be a quick print. I really like it! Thanks for the recommendation! It fits perfectly in the unused spot and sits low. Definitely perfect for tiny batteries. And I found four of these 3S 1500mAh GOLDBAT LiPos that I bought for my Capra.

Looking good.

I printed the same tray for my VRD. Had plans to make my own to put the battery behind the transmission but that file is close enough and saved me a bunch of time designing one. I did trim that boss on the back of the transmission case to make more room for the battery. It is only there to help connect the dig kit and I'm never putting dig on my VRD. Hard to tell from the pic if that would make enough room for the battery to sit flat on the tray or not.
 
Back
Top