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Crawllife's 5D Sucker Punch

I really don't like the look of the drag link being pointed down and away from the arc of servo travel. It is just bad geometry that will result in weaker steering the farther it turns. Ideally, the drag link should remain level through servo rotation, or at least go upward from horn to steering arm. That's one of the reason 86jeep steering setup a on Bergs are considered the best layout as the drag link and tie rod travel on the same arc as the horn and knuckle. Although my setup looks wonky, at full lock in either direction, the rod ends of my drag link are totally level horizontally.

So in the last pic I posted, with the drag being close to parallel, that's still way off? I have a 1.8 drag getting made for a bit more clearance. Behind the horn for approach is still my goal. I'm learning a lot here dude. Thanks.
 
That's a top-notch servo protector...
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It works look how chewed up it is...You should send me a CF one..lmao..
You go on and rock that guard bro!
 
So in the last pic I posted, with the drag being close to parallel, that's still way off? I have a 1.8 drag getting made for a bit more clearance. Behind the horn for approach is still my goal. I'm learning a lot here dude. Thanks.

When the steering is at full throw, that drag link and servo horn will be at an angle that will basically waste servo power.. It'll probably feel strong turning left, and feel weak turning right,

They way you have it in that picture, when turning to the right, your drag link and servo horn will start to align with all three pivot points (servo output & 2 drag link rod ends) in a straight line, which is a terrible waste of servo force. In fact, if it got into a straight line, the steering would actually wobble.

Don't get me wrong though, at full lock to the right, it might be at a good enough angle to be solid and strong, but at a glance from where I am sitting, it looks like a compromised setup.
 
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I may just switch to this set up. I'm a bit of a whore when it comes to buying RC stuff. Creation Fab made this for me a while back. Gonna try BTA to see if I can't achieve my goal:)


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Mount the tie rod on top of the arms and you should be able to get it above the driveshaft, out of the way. I also used some VP shock Razors to help with clearance.


 
Ok, I'm happier with this. I believe I can get more steering and it's super clean. Just need to mess with the radio.
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Mount the tie rod on top of the arms and you should be able to get it above the driveshaft, out of the way. I also used some VP shock Razors to help with clearance.



I may go back and " redo"! That looks great. I should have checked the page before swapping out. Thanks for the pics!
 
Ok, putting this thing up for the day. A couple " somewhat" finished pics. I'm sitting at 10.75 front and 10 even out back. That will be changing. It's too narrow for me. Unless all the new light weight stuff changes my perspective. It just needs rocks to tell. A few small issues to address are: the knuckle weight I had to mod a bit for the Calvin arm wants to slide off when I tighten the set screw. 2) when I turn the wheels by hand, I can see the front right will be into the servo. That's too much castor. However I don't know at this point if that would mean drilling new holes. 3) the lid. I can design others. Just don't know what I want.
ahe4yby3.jpg

Full ride hight
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Compressed
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A lot of room for my batt if I can get the castor under control.
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I was fixin on eating soup so I know I get at least that much flex.


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Yup, I'd say too much castor. Your tie rod will get snagged for sure. Above the front lower links is ideal so you have some protection. Or with less castor, you may be able to reconfigure it to the front.

bete8y6y.jpg


It'll be very interesting to see what the lid is going to look like.
 
Your right solitaire. I'd have to raise my electronics plate up for clearance but that is far from a big deal. I'm sure I could fit it in there. I'm grateful for everyone's help and input. It's 1.9 building tomorrow and than tearing this front axle apart Tuesday. Once again, sorry to my clients waiting for paint. 13 days until our season starts.
 
budavuga.jpg

A quick shot of my EY Designs " voodovers" or laalaa style rubber. Mounted on .75" Dlux V cut wheels with carbon back ring. While I have the 6" narrowed foams for some of this seasons rigs, the price tag deterred me from ordering as many as I could have used. These have 5.25 CI DD's soft front, med rear with 3 tuning rings around each to get the desired feel.


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etyrazun.jpg
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I can not express enough how happy I am with my notch eight designs collars. I had received my first set for my wife's berg in white. She rocks Dlux white tubes and the accents are great. To get these blue ones solidifies that these are the collars to rock for me. Getting them in virtually any color you want and the fit on both my sets is top notch ( eight ) ;)


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It put me in a position to get the steering where I'm much happier with it. I've learned a lot from The Scorpion King about drag angles and making things easier on the servo. I broke some of the rules today. However the loss of castor and getting that link up front instead of under the out put WAS a solid call. I may do more with it after the first comp this coming Sunday but that will dictate any change.


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8u6ubuna.jpg
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Lastly, Addicted's and my sucker punch enjoying the last day before testing and a good whoopin on Sunday. Killer design from 5D. I really dig this chassis!


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Tomorrow, if I'm not painting the body, I'll show how sick the tires turned out on this rig:).


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Looks like its coming together really well!

What was your reasoning for flipping the trans?
 
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