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Tips and Tricks Thread
- Thread starter Lemonlegs28
- Start date
Sailingeric
Rock Stacker
Here is my cheap and easy Snorkel. I took a section from the parts tree,
and used an old bind plug
Cut the new snorkel piece from the spruce
Pulled out a lighter and melted it enough to bend into shape
Cut the bind plug down to make the inlet
I then used a hot glue gun to attach the inlet to the pipe
Cleaned up the snorkel and hot glued it to the body
All done in about 10 minutes.
and used an old bind plug
Cut the new snorkel piece from the spruce
Pulled out a lighter and melted it enough to bend into shape
Cut the bind plug down to make the inlet
I then used a hot glue gun to attach the inlet to the pipe
Cleaned up the snorkel and hot glued it to the body
All done in about 10 minutes.
What am i not seeing here?
Hi-Intentionz
Quarry Creeper
Anyone have an easy way of putting the servo mounted on the chassis I tried the one with the stock plate but it seems to hit the axle on almost full compression. Pretty much doesn't allow full compression. Anyone?
Trump1
Rock Crawler
My only suggestion would be to replicate what others have done.
Hi-Intentionz
Quarry Creeper
friz
Newbie
When I have a hex bolt where the head is stripped I will super clue an allen wrench onto it, wait for it to set and then back the screw out. better than drilling!
Pm sent....I got one for ya."thumbsup"
Hi-Intentionz
Quarry Creeper
Hi-Intentionz
Quarry Creeper
I haven't received a pm
Trump1
Rock Crawler
Going to give this a try. Thank you!
Doug Brock
Newbie
Check front to rear weight ratio 60/40. Make sure you got alittle sag. If your shock spring preload is maxed out or to stiff of springs your shocks can't work.
I had an LED lead break off he back of the LED for my head light. I have the LEDs in Mini Maglight reflectors. The LEDs are a snug press fit, which made it really difficult to remove from the reflector. I tried to carefully pry the little lip of the back of the LED, but it's so brittle it just breaks off. I broke the other lead off and drilled a small hole. Then I used one of those chincy little screws that come with your servo for mounting. You know, the ones no one uses? This allowed me to get a hold of the LED with some needle nose pliers and pull it out. A simple fix to a possibly very frustrating issue.
Here's an easy one!
While I was at my LHS, wondering if I wanted to part with 50 bucks for a set of aluminum shock hoops, I came up with a way to stiffen the stock ones for zero dollars.
I used some of the long Revo ball ends from RPM, (other types will work, even the extras on the parts tree) and some 8/32 all thread to make a stiffener where the holes (w/o) the balls slide onto the body posts nice and snug.
Nice and easy! You could put an extra body clip in the hole on the post just above to keep the stiffener from moving up the body post.
Scott
While I was at my LHS, wondering if I wanted to part with 50 bucks for a set of aluminum shock hoops, I came up with a way to stiffen the stock ones for zero dollars.
I used some of the long Revo ball ends from RPM, (other types will work, even the extras on the parts tree) and some 8/32 all thread to make a stiffener where the holes (w/o) the balls slide onto the body posts nice and snug.
Nice and easy! You could put an extra body clip in the hole on the post just above to keep the stiffener from moving up the body post.
Scott
chevyboy3199
Newbie
My scx10 has a regular turning radius one way but when I turn the other way it has to make really wide turns
Did you centre your steering servo correctly before installing the servo horn?
stelerzman
I wanna be Dave
I'm not sure there is anything wrong with the rig. What I see is normal, tire slipping on loose ground. The bounching is the tires gaining and losing traction. Try driving your rig on a much harder surface and see if it still bounches.
Good luck.
stelerzman
I wanna be Dave
Is your steering link , from the servo to the knuckle, on the drivers side or the passanger side?
