Tbalnchard420
Newbie
Just read through the whole 16 pages, now I'm going to.be extremely busy haha, so many good ideas!!!
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Tips and Tricks Thread
- Thread starter Lemonlegs28
- Start date
wildman2132
Newbie
I read thru all these pages a couple nights ago don't remember anyone mentioning this so sorry if it has been, idr were I saw this but if your linkage going from servo horn to knuckle is limiting your flex in the left front try a bent rod end on the end on the servo horn, simple thing some people wouldn't think of but it helps "thumbsup"
Last edited:
caleb.cole
Pebble Pounder
here is a good way to help solidify your honcho bumper:
drill holes into the winch plate so that the bumper is held against the winch plate. then drop a set screw in so that it holds there
drill holes into the winch plate so that the bumper is held against the winch plate. then drop a set screw in so that it holds there
cotyhamlett
Quarry Creeper
What if i have a winch installed?
yasha7fold
Newbie
Great ideas guys. I hhaven't got my SCX 10 iin the mail yet but when I do I have a great direction. thanks
yasha7fold
Newbie
Man great idea.
TacoCrawler
I wanna be Dave
Axle housing center chunk protection.
Home brew scuff rings (steel) encircling the axle center chunk's
lower half.
The purpose for these is to protect the vulnerable center line
of the axle's center chunk.
It is thin material on the underside and besides the rock grinding...
the ring gear also grooves/thins the interior slightly as well.
^ (axle flex someone proposed)
Steel slides better then most other materials
and handles the grinding with less wear to it.
painted my scuff rings black...
so it would be easier to define the abrasion/wear areas.
Holding up fairly well that I can tell...
so would seem that E6000 is up to the task.
But I'll hammer on them some more, just to be sure.
screw waiting for some mfgr to get busy with it !? Lol
Cheap to do... easily made....
The end cap is discarded ^ V
I bought the E6000 from Michael's arts and craft store.
But it should be available for purchase most anywhere.
I used a smaller 2" diameter steel hair spray can (found in a trash can)
I used a cut off wheel to cut the appropriate ring width off the can.
But I'm sure other cutting methods could be used as well.
btw... a single ring cut off the 2" OD aerosol can... is enough to do 2 axles wrapped 180*
so a single can will produce more then a few replacements.
Try to keep the ring round/smooth and without kinks or bends to it's surface.
the goal is to keep the ring's surface contact contoured precisely to the center chunks OD.
Doing so will insure a better seal/seating when adhered with the E6000.
Use a magnet to be sure the aerosol can is made of steel.
Some are constructed using aluminum.
Note !! be sure the pressure in the can is vented out
prior to puncturing the can.
I applied the E6000 to both the axle housing surface
and on the inner surface of the steel ring.
Then simply pressed it on to the axle's surface...
wiping any excess from the rings edges.
^ be sure to clean the axle's exterior prior to gluing.
I use rubbing alcohol to be sure it's free of surface oils.
btw... single replacement SCX-10 axle housings cost near $ 15.00 shipped :shock:
so doing this... will make 'dem last longer ;-)
Home brew scuff rings (steel) encircling the axle center chunk's
lower half.
The purpose for these is to protect the vulnerable center line
of the axle's center chunk.
It is thin material on the underside and besides the rock grinding...
the ring gear also grooves/thins the interior slightly as well.
^ (axle flex someone proposed)
Steel slides better then most other materials
and handles the grinding with less wear to it.
painted my scuff rings black...
so it would be easier to define the abrasion/wear areas.
Holding up fairly well that I can tell...
so would seem that E6000 is up to the task.
But I'll hammer on them some more, just to be sure.
screw waiting for some mfgr to get busy with it !? Lol
Cheap to do... easily made....
The end cap is discarded ^ V
I bought the E6000 from Michael's arts and craft store.
But it should be available for purchase most anywhere.
I used a smaller 2" diameter steel hair spray can (found in a trash can)
I used a cut off wheel to cut the appropriate ring width off the can.
But I'm sure other cutting methods could be used as well.
btw... a single ring cut off the 2" OD aerosol can... is enough to do 2 axles wrapped 180*
so a single can will produce more then a few replacements.
Try to keep the ring round/smooth and without kinks or bends to it's surface.
the goal is to keep the ring's surface contact contoured precisely to the center chunks OD.
Doing so will insure a better seal/seating when adhered with the E6000.
Use a magnet to be sure the aerosol can is made of steel.
Some are constructed using aluminum.
Note !! be sure the pressure in the can is vented out
prior to puncturing the can.
I applied the E6000 to both the axle housing surface
and on the inner surface of the steel ring.
Then simply pressed it on to the axle's surface...
wiping any excess from the rings edges.
^ be sure to clean the axle's exterior prior to gluing.
I use rubbing alcohol to be sure it's free of surface oils.
btw... single replacement SCX-10 axle housings cost near $ 15.00 shipped :shock:
so doing this... will make 'dem last longer ;-)
TacoCrawler
I wanna be Dave
Honcho Windshield Replacement (cheap trick)
this trick could work for other bodies as well... I'd think !?
Had to cut out my windows and windshield
because they were marred to the point
that the driver/interior visibility was nearly impossible to distinguish.
Was ok with leaving the windshield open...
but then came up with a cheap fix, thought I'd share.
So my son had kept the lexan box his Xbox controller came in...
and so... I cut a new windshield from that material.
If one looks closely...
they will see that I left a little material on the inner perimeters
of the original Honcho windshield.
I cut the new piece to fit nearly the same as the original windshield's outer perimeter...
then used some E6000 (clear) to adhere the new windshield screen
to the existing surface perimeter.
It was laid and glued to the outer surface using the E6000
I think it looks acceptable and is now optically clear again
and it is easily replaced with new, if or when it gets marred up again.
If the E6000 does not hold well...
then I will likely use some wee bolts/nuts to secure the outer shield in place.
pictures of that... for making criticism or your own judgement...
here's what it looked like prior with the windows cut out... no windshield
this trick could work for other bodies as well... I'd think !?
Had to cut out my windows and windshield
because they were marred to the point
that the driver/interior visibility was nearly impossible to distinguish.
Was ok with leaving the windshield open...
but then came up with a cheap fix, thought I'd share.
So my son had kept the lexan box his Xbox controller came in...
and so... I cut a new windshield from that material.
If one looks closely...
they will see that I left a little material on the inner perimeters
of the original Honcho windshield.
I cut the new piece to fit nearly the same as the original windshield's outer perimeter...
then used some E6000 (clear) to adhere the new windshield screen
to the existing surface perimeter.
It was laid and glued to the outer surface using the E6000
I think it looks acceptable and is now optically clear again
and it is easily replaced with new, if or when it gets marred up again.
If the E6000 does not hold well...
then I will likely use some wee bolts/nuts to secure the outer shield in place.
pictures of that... for making criticism or your own judgement...
here's what it looked like prior with the windows cut out... no windshield
Last edited:
DowntownScience
Rock Crawler
I read thru all these pages a couple nights ago don't remember anyone mentioning this so sorry if it has been, idr were I saw this but if your linkage going from servo horn to knuckle is limiting your flex in the left front try a bent rod end on the end on the servo horn, simple thing some people wouldn't think of but it helps "thumbsup"
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Your steering linkage actually needs to go to the opposite side of where the servo horn is. That is why you're limited. You probably get better steering on one side too right!?
Made the same mistake after buying the Axial steering linkage set. The drag link is WAY to short to setup properly and unless you've done it before (my first crawler) you're left to assume it goes there based upon its length and the fact that there is no instructions! Finally took it to my LHS and learned that little gem!
Using some longer rod ends (see RC4WD website) and possibly some spacers you'll be able to get it to the correct length and in the correct position.
Tbalnchard420
Newbie
Heres a good tip!!! Dont use the STRC link ends....they break easy as heck....
duellym
Rock Stacker
I can't belive nobody's posted this yet but if you lay the shocks down like i did and take out the bump stops it gives you 6-6 1/2 inches of flex
Oh and don't use traxxas servos they don't fit
Oh and don't use traxxas servos they don't fit
Hey guys, sorry for not having pics. Here's how I made a pretty scale looking rear tube-style bumper for my Deadbolt. It just uses spare parts included with the RTR. A few of those driveshaft tubes and a suspension link plus 4 screws and you're good to go! Let me know what ya think "thumbsup"
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2PokJcXUgsU
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2PokJcXUgsU
Did that years ago to lower the bed on my ford. Works great and plenty of flex. Sometime too much!
cotyhamlett
Quarry Creeper
I was thinking too much flex at 6-6.5 inches of travel. Would be cool to see in action though.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk
I can't belive nobody's posted this yet but if you lay the shocks down like i did and take out the bump stops it gives you 6-6 1/2 inches of flex
Oh and don't use traxxas servos they don't fit
did you do this yourself or buy a kit? could you do a write up of how you did it?
cotyhamlett
Quarry Creeper
They have a kit for this on ebay.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk
ricksonchow
Rock Stacker
The stock clutch didnt get well with water. It deteriorated and the clutch stuck. So I have dropped in the slash one and it was a direct fit!:shock:
So now I have a 32p tough gear and heavy duty clutch!:mrgreen:
So now I have a 32p tough gear and heavy duty clutch!:mrgreen:
oklamopar
Rock Stacker
Does the heatsink help?
