My Berg Rebuild

[JeremyH]

Looking good Ashton! You are going to like that setup!"thumbsup"

The only thing that comes to mind for me is that when you turn full lock it raises the truck rather than lowering one side...

That is all dependent on the caster. I rocked mine back pretty far with these knuckles and hubs and it will still raise the truck on the inside tire and lower on the outside, just like it did with my 0* camber setup."thumbsup"

 

[stediju]

Nice work Ashton "thumbsup"

 

[ittybitty]

How much castor does "pretty far back" represent in an actual degree measurement?

 

[JeremyH]

How much castor does "pretty far back" represent in an actual degree measurement?

Haha...what? You dont like my technical description? :lol:

I havent measured them, but they are probably 30* caster, then I clocked the axle up about 10* for gearbox clearance....so mine currently sit at about 20*.

 

[ittybitty]

Much clearer...thanks "thumbsup"

 

[helhedded]

Ok, I wonder if I order the C's raw will make a difference? Thank you.

Oh man I use to run the widest possible in the front 585 with 1in DH pro comps and 335 in the rear. I saw a video of my rig at last years ECC compared to this year and was like wow :shock::shock::lmao:.

So just gonna have to get use to going a little wide again but man I love running narrow 8)

Here's the video you can see how wide the front is.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=50TLlcFh4nw&feature=youtube_gdata_player

Yep, I remember that. You ran pretty wide at Midwest, too.

This morning I ended up taking my 1.25" Evos off the front and replacing them with a 1" to get back down to 11" wide.

Looking good Ashton! You are going to like that setup!"thumbsup"

Thanks, Jeremy! I like it so far.

Nice work Ashton "thumbsup"

Thanks, Dieter "thumbsup"

 

[helhedded]

Here are some pics of the new tierod setup. I had to make a longer drag link so I could get the proper throw. This one is bent for a little more clearance. I did have to bolt it in the outer knuckle holes, though.

The post man came today and brought me a present. I had to grab up a couple BRX-Ls with the sale going on :mrgreen:

 

[Mini]

Very nice!!! Steering looks insane!!!! Lol

 

[CRSMacgyver]

Looks good Ashton. Hope the ESCs work as well for you as they are for me......

 

[Szczerba]

Coming along nicely. If you haven't tested the steering setup yet, you're in for a nice surprise (you probably already have). That inside tire looks it will mega hook now. I instantly noticed the difference vs. berg steering setup.

Steering link looks good too. Seems like the slight bends and outer hole knuckle mount gives you the extra clearance needed vs. the straight link.

 

[helhedded]

Very nice!!! Steering looks insane!!!! Lol

Coming along nicely. If you haven't tested the steering setup yet, you're in for a nice surprise (you probably already have). That inside tire looks it will mega hook now. I instantly noticed the difference vs. berg steering setup.

Steering link looks good too. Seems like the slight bends and outer hole knuckle mount gives you the extra clearance needed vs. the straight link.

After putting my knuckle weights back on I lost some steering angle so I guess I'm going to have to remove a little material from them. I will look at maybe countersinking the C's too. The weights come into contact with the C hub before the 300s get close to lock.

 

[Szczerba]

After putting my knuckle weights back on I lost some steering angle so I guess I'm going to have to remove a little material from them. I will look at maybe countersinking the C's too. The weights come into contact with the C hub before the 300s get close to lock.

yep, the outer edges of the VP weights hit the chub mount screws, both ways, i believe. Noticed that yesterday. Does limit some steering.

Counter sink the chub (but they are slots) and use a different screws or dremel out the weights.

Or grind the chub down where the screw sit. Lots of material there, IIRC.


...

 

[helhedded]

counter sinking the C hubs was the easy fix"thumbsup"

 

[helhedded]

Here are a few pics of the BRX-L job. Tearing them down was a breeze. The heat sinks popped off with a flat head. I ended up splitting up the power wires with a micro bullet plug per JRH's recommendation for calibration and programming.

2.0 ounces total with 16g wire & Castle BEC

For reference here are pics of 2 Micro Sidewinders and 2 FXRs. Both setups are fully wired with BECs.

sidewinders

fxrs

I still need to clean it all up but this is how they look in the truck.

 

[ittybitty]

Good job Ashton...I'm liking mine and have them setup pretty much identical to you...but with the BEC and 614 Rx mounted next to each other on the tail end of the skid. 8)

 

[Szczerba]

When you strip down the BR-XL's, they are pretty small. Waiting on a BEC and some servo crimpers pilers to set mine up.

Where are these micro bullet plugs you speak of? Spliced between the two esc's? No pics needed, just a description.

 

[helhedded]

Good job Ashton...I'm liking mine and have them setup pretty much identical to you...but with the BEC and 614 Rx mounted next to each other on the tail end of the skid.

Thanks man. I am loving them so far.

When you strip down the BR-XL's, they are pretty small. Waiting on a BEC and some servo crimpers pilers to set mine up.

Where are these micro bullet plugs you speak of? Spliced between the two esc's? No pics needed, just a description.

yep. In between the negative lead from one esc to the other. I don't think that it matters if they are connected during calibration as long as you only have 1 esc plugged into the RX. The main worry was programming with the Castle link since John mentioned that the new firmware causes issues when you have the ESCs power wires connected during programming.

 

[travis c.]

Nice rig Ashton, did you set up the steering so that the inside tire turns a little more than the outside tire at full clock?

 

[helhedded]

Nice rig Ashton, did you set up the steering so that the inside tire turns a little more than the outside tire at full clock?

Thanks Travis.


I have been going back in forth from straight to bent. With the straight setup I get what you are talking about (the inside turning more than the outer), and with the bent I get equal throw. I haven't had enough test time with both setups to tell if one works better than the other. What do you suggest, Mr. 3nd place at 2010 Nationals?

FYI in post #71 the straight tierod has some toe-in so that is why they are both turned evenly.

 

[travis c.]

Thanks Travis.


I have been going back in forth from straight to bent. With the straight setup I get what you are talking about (the inside turning more than the outer), and with the bent I get equal throw. I haven't had enough test time with both setups to tell if one works better than the other. What do you suggest, Mr. 3nd place at 2010 Nationals?

FYI in post #71 the straight tierod has some toe-in so that is why they are both turned evenly.

I was very lucky that day, you know what they say: The sun shines on a dog's ass every once in a while.:ror:

Well, I never ran my knucks facing forward, just from my own experience, I like the outside wheel to turn more. To me, it seems the outside wheel has most of the force pushing on it, besides, the inside wheel breaks traction when turning because of it being locked.
I could be wrong, that's just what I've noticed on my rigs."thumbsup"