• Welcome to RCCrawler Forums.

    It looks like you're enjoying RCCrawler's Forums but haven't created an account yet. Why not take a minute to register for your own free account now? As a member you get free access to all of our forums and posts plus the ability to post your own messages, communicate directly with other members, and much more. Register now!

    Already a member? Login at the top of this page to stop seeing this message.

New T1E Berg build

The rig is looking great. I am thinking about a berg rebuild for the heck of it...

You may have mentioned it, but what knuckles are you running on the front axle? I'm guessing Axial clockables?... but where did you get them?

Also... is there anything special you have to do with them to run the 300's?

Thanks..."thumbsup"
 
The rig is looking great. I am thinking about a berg rebuild for the heck of it...

You may have mentioned it, but what knuckles are you running on the front axle? I'm guessing Axial clockables?... but where did you get them?

Also... is there anything special you have to do with them to run the 300's?

Thanks..."thumbsup"

Its the Tubes and AX10 C's that allow you to clock your knuckles. The current ones you have will work just fine "thumbsup"
 
That's correct the tubes are Clover Custom Design (66Bronco) and the Axial C-hubs allow you to clock the knuckles. The knuckle weights Im using are from Erik D-lux and depending on wheel and tire combo I either run a couple of the .100 rings or a single .300 ring for extra weight right on the axle centerline. Nothing special to run the Super300s cause Im using VP knuckles and the tubes are set up for 86Jeep style steering but uses a straight tierod positioned out front. Here's a couple pics of just the front axle

newBerg010.jpg


newBerg009.jpg
 
Last edited:
Do you know or could you measure your uppers fr/bk, eye to eye? I'm curious how they compare to my old ones. Have a ss coming.

Rig turned out really nice. The stance w fronts layed back looks good.
 
Tonight, I shortened the tierod a little to bring the toe in just a touch also did some checking over the whole rig so it's ready to go for Monday's practice and I found some not so good stuff happening. I've only ran about 5 or 6 packs thru this new rig and the short side rear axle is bent:evil:. Yes, I should took the advise I was given and gotten the RC Axlemasters but I went with the CKRC shafts so I'll be sending them an email tonight about the problem and see if they'll replace at least the short side for me. Im gonna run it the way it is and deal with the wobble for now.
 
Tonight, I shortened the tierod a little to bring the toe in just a touch also did some checking over the whole rig so it's ready to go for Monday's practice and I found some not so good stuff happening. I've only ran about 5 or 6 packs thru this new rig and the short side rear axle is bent:evil:. Yes, I should took the advise I was given and gotten the RC Axlemasters but I went with the CKRC shafts so I'll be sending them an email tonight about the problem and see if they'll replace at least the short side for me. Im gonna run it the way it is and deal with the wobble for now.

Don't wanna roach your buzz or anything like it but my Axlemaster's short side came a little bent aswell. I ran it anyways but I still have to get the issue solved.
 
Tonight, I shortened the tierod a little to bring the toe in just a touch also did some checking over the whole rig so it's ready to go for Monday's practice and I found some not so good stuff happening. I've only ran about 5 or 6 packs thru this new rig and the short side rear axle is bent:evil:. Yes, I should took the advise I was given and gotten the RC Axlemasters but I went with the CKRC shafts so I'll be sending them an email tonight about the problem and see if they'll replace at least the short side for me. Im gonna run it the way it is and deal with the wobble for now.

They arent great, but you can hammer them straight multiple times....:roll:
 
Would it be too much trouble to post a pic of your lock to lock steering? I am noticing you put your tie rod in the FRONT holes of your VP knuckles and I was under the impression that everyone runs them in the rear holes. I was just curious as to why you did that and if the steering is any better?
 
The tierod is in the outside hole for clearance. At full turn with the tierod in the inside holes it will hit the servo before full turn. This is with the c's being clocked back.The servo arm also comes into play.
 
The tierod is in the outside hole for clearance. At full turn with the tierod in the inside holes it will hit the servo before full turn. This is with the c's being clocked back.The servo arm also comes into play.

Mine is on the back hole and I've yet to have a problem with it.
 
I did move the tierod under the knuckle last night but still lots of room below it and no binding except at full lock the servo arm hits the case at the same time the knuckle weight touches the C-hub still has tons of steering
 
Gonna take it out for some practice today with Josh so he can teach me a few tricks"thumbsup"

I'll try and get some pics to post of it running so you'll believe me Mini :flipoff:
 
Gonna take it out for some practice today with Josh so he can teach me a few tricks"thumbsup"

I'll try and get some pics to post of it running so you'll believe me Mini :flipoff:

Don't think I taught him much but I did switch out my bad 7950 for his new one:lmao:
 
Josh...what happened to the servo? I remember yall messing with it at the days inn
 
Back
Top