B-MOW's GSPEED V1-C1 Mojave Class 1 Build

[Topher Builds]

That front does look a bit long, does your panhard run parallel with the bumper or is it angled back?

Motor mount looks good on there. Did you just use a normal bit to drill through the CF?

 

[B-MOW71]

I need to learn more about Gspeed and what chassis to get before I do it lol. But I can see that happening in the near future....:ror:

Awesome! Can't wait to see which one you decided on for your future build!

I see. I'm not much of a tuner so that much positive caster is needed? I've been setting my trucks at or near zero, maybe I'll try adding some. Thanks

I took another look at it last night and noticed that the axle was tilted back a little too far. After I readjusted the axle, it gives the right amount of positive caster which I like to run.

That front does look a bit long, does your panhard run parallel with the bumper or is it angled back?

Motor mount looks good on there. Did you just use a normal bit to drill through the CF?

The panhard does run parallel with the bumper. I found that the front lower hi-clearance links are too long. They came as 125mm long. I put a set of 118mm long links on it and it shortened the wheelbase to 11-3/8" which looks much better and lines up with the body better. The pinion angle looks better too. With the 127mm links, the pinion angle was pointed slightly down. I may shorten the upper link a smidge or move it back one hole on the rail to see how it lines up.

The FMM fits nicely on the CF shock towers. I did not drill the hole in the CF yet. I'm waiting on the drilling jigs that come with mirrored skid to arrive before I attempt to drill it. I wanted to make sure that I put the holes in the right location. On my first G-rig build I did use a normal drill bit to drill the CF rails to attach the battery tray. I drilled a small pilot hole and then drilled the correct size hole. I used my drill press and drilled slowly. I made sure to tape both sides of the rails and screw them down to a board so that I wouldn't get any splintering. Holes came out great without splintering.

 

[Fricker08]

Well this thing is coming along quite nice! You’ve inspired me to do a proper c1 build. As fun as the 6x is, going over the craziest obstacles with ease gets a little old lol
Can’t wait to see this thing finished up man


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[B-MOW71]

Well this thing is coming along quite nice! You’ve inspired me to do a proper c1 build. As fun as the 6x is, going over the craziest obstacles with ease gets a little old lol
Can’t wait to see this thing finished up man


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hey thanks Fricker!"thumbsup"

Looking forward to seeing your take on a C1 build! I haven't tackled a 6x6 project yet. Mainly because they do look like they would be unstoppable and not all that challenging to drive. Don't get me wrong, I do like the looks of them and I think they would be a fun build! Maybe I'll give one a shot in the future.

Hoping to get back on this when more parts arrive!

 

[garyk]

Nice work dude. This is making me wish I'd have built up a V1-C1 instead of setting up my VS410 for class 1. I could always use another project though...hmm.

 

[B-MOW71]

Nice work dude. This is making me wish I'd have built up a V1-C1 instead of setting up my VS410 for class 1. I could always use another project though...hmm.

Thanks Gary!"thumbsup"

Who doesn't love new projects!:ror: Here's an idea, VS4-10 with VFD in a V1-C1 for your next build!;-) This is the route I almost took with this build and still want to do in the future. The VFD trans fits sooo good in these chassis'!

 

[TK421]

That was my plan, VFD in a V1-C1... I think it would fit so perfectly...

Lou

 

[twade984]

Not to derail your thread...

I’m in the very early planning stages of a class 1 legal truck (just for fun, no plans to comp), and I’m already overwhelmed with possibilities. I already have an enduro chassis, and I will have an extra vs410 chassis (both have rails, servo mounts etc), but I’m pretty keen on the g speed v1c1 setup.

In your opinion so far, what would be the advantages of the g speed setup versus really any other c1 legal chassis? (10.2, enduro, vs410, etc)

No matter which way I go, i will end up using either a 3 gear trans, or vfd, and axial ar45’s, not sure on portal or straight yet.

 

[B-MOW71]

That was my plan, VFD in a V1-C1... I think it would fit so perfectly...

Lou

Agree!"thumbsup" I'm already getting excited to build one even though that is a ways down the road!:ror:

Not to derail your thread...

I’m in the very early planning stages of a class 1 legal truck (just for fun, no plans to comp), and I’m already overwhelmed with possibilities. I already have an enduro chassis, and I will have an extra vs410 chassis (both have rails, servo mounts etc), but I’m pretty keen on the g speed v1c1 setup.

In your opinion so far, what would be the advantages of the g speed setup versus really any other c1 legal chassis? (10.2, enduro, vs410, etc)

No matter which way I go, i will end up using either a 3 gear trans, or vfd, and axial ar45’s, not sure on portal or straight yet.

That's a good question. I mainly built mine for fun, but may eventually take it to a comp or two to see how it hangs with other built rigs. The reason I decided on the V1-C1 was because of how easy it is to swap in axles, trans, etc. to make the perfect Class 1 rig. And there is plenty of others who have built these that have already answered a lot of questions that I would have had to ask. So easy to search and find answers to link setup, trans and axle setup, panhard link and mounts, etc.

Also, I love these GSpeed chassis' and there are many aftermarket parts that work well with this chassis setup. For me going with the TF2 Toyota body and seeing how well they fit and look, it really was the only way that I wanted to go to make it look like a scale, but very capable rig. I know portal axles are not normally found under this type of rig in the "real world", but with running the smaller class 1 tires, I think the portal axle is the way to go to give a little extra ground clearance to get up and over obstacles.

Looking forward to seeing what you decide on!

 

[TBuggy]

More parts and pieces have arrived. Last Wednesday the TGH FMM went back up for sale on their website so I jumped on it and picked one up. Also picked up the TGH CF FMM brackets for the V1-C1. Big thanks to @topherbuilds for the heads up that these were going on sale!"thumbsup"

Also picked up the Axial 56T spur and slipper pads needed to complete it.

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Just look at these carbon fiber beauties mounted up! Man they look great!

Since I'm running the AR45's with the offset pumpkin, I had to mirror the FMM so that it would not interfere with the front driveshaft. Very easy to do. Just have to remove 3 screws in the FMM and reinsert the spur shaft in the opposite direction. By mirroring the FMM, you now have to drill new bottom mounting holes in the CF front shock towers. I went ahead and put an order in for the mirrored skid that TGH offers that comes with the drilling jigs needed to place the holes in the right location.

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Since I'm super impatient, I threw on some wheels and tires to see how it would look with the body on. I noticed that the front axle is sitting to far forward in the front fender wheel arch. I'll have to measure the front links and see how much I need to adjust them to get them to line up with the body. The link set that I ordered was for the 11.4" wheelbase, but now I'm wondering if I ordered them for the wrong axle??? I'll have to go back and take a look at what I originally ordered.

Anyways, here's the pics with the body on.

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@B-MOW I think you have some of your links mixed up. I have been following along on your build and have started my own recently and also purchased a set of intheworks links. The difference with the set I got vs yours (I believe anyhow) is that you got all 3/16" links. I picked up a custom set (which allows you to pick different diameter links and mix and match high clearance, SS or titanium links in the set. I picked up 1/4" lowers, 3/16" uppers and then titanium steering links. This helped me to easily identify which ones went where. The only mix up I had when initially fitting things together was that I had the front and rear lower links swapped at first.

For reference the upper rear links shouldn't have any bends (even if they are high clearance links) Its hard to tell unless you get different metals like I did and could tell the titanium simply by the weight difference.

The 3rd upper link should be a bent one and not a straight one. Also noting that you are also using the FMM you will need to flip it upside down to clear the FMM. I can see in your pics you may have some clearance issues with the way the links are set up now.

I will be posting pictures of my build here soon but just for a quick comparison here is mine with the links set up the way I just mentioned minus the steering and panhard, which I do believe are not correct like yours where as well.

IMG_3339 by T Buggy, on Flickr

IMG_3338 by T Buggy, on Flickr

This last picture shows that I can fully compress the front axle with the 3rd link the way it is and with the FMM installed.
IMG_3341 by T Buggy, on Flickr

I hope this helps out and if I am completely wrong then feel free to let me know so I can double check mine. LOL:lmao:

 

[B-MOW71]

@B-MOW I think you have some of your links mixed up. I have been following along on your build and have started my own recently and also purchased a set of intheworks links. The difference with the set I got vs yours (I believe anyhow) is that you got all 3/16" links. I picked up a custom set (which allows you to pick different diameter links and mix and match high clearance, SS or titanium links in the set. I picked up 1/4" lowers, 3/16" uppers and then titanium steering links. This helped me to easily identify which ones went where. The only mix up I had when initially fitting things together was that I had the front and rear lower links swapped at first.

For reference the upper rear links shouldn't have any bends (even if they are high clearance links) Its hard to tell unless you get different metals like I did and could tell the titanium simply by the weight difference.

The 3rd upper link should be a bent one and not a straight one. Also noting that you are also using the FMM you will need to flip it upside down to clear the FMM. I can see in your pics you may have some clearance issues with the way the links are set up now.

I will be posting pictures of my build here soon but just for a quick comparison here is mine with the links set up the way I just mentioned minus the steering and panhard, which I do believe are not correct like yours where as well.

IMG_3339 by T Buggy, on Flickr

IMG_3338 by T Buggy, on Flickr

This last picture shows that I can fully compress the front axle with the 3rd link the way it is and with the FMM installed.
IMG_3341 by T Buggy, on Flickr

I hope this helps out and if I am completely wrong then feel free to let me know so I can double check mine. LOL:lmao:

You know, you may be right. That makes sense to why the front axle was pushed to far forward. Thanks for the info and pics!"thumbsup" I'm going to check my setup after I get off of work today and I'll let you know what I find.

Right now the front upper link does just slightly kiss the FMM when fully compressed. I thought it was odd that it was setup that way. I'll check that out too and let you know later today.

Appreciate the info! Nice to see you are building a similar V1-C1 build! Look forward to seeing your V1 build once you get it posted!

 

[Panther6834]

@B-MOW I think you have some of your links mixed up. I have been following along on your build and have started my own recently and also purchased a set of intheworks links. The difference with the set I got vs yours (I believe anyhow) is that you got all 3/16" links. I picked up a custom set (which allows you to pick different diameter links and mix and match high clearance, SS or titanium links in the set. I picked up 1/4" lowers, 3/16" uppers and then titanium steering links. This helped me to easily identify which ones went where. The only mix up I had when initially fitting things together was that I had the front and rear lower links swapped at first.

For reference the upper rear links shouldn't have any bends (even if they are high clearance links) Its hard to tell unless you get different metals like I did and could tell the titanium simply by the weight difference.

The 3rd upper link should be a bent one and not a straight one. Also noting that you are also using the FMM you will need to flip it upside down to clear the FMM. I can see in your pics you may have some clearance issues with the way the links are set up now.

I will be posting pictures of my build here soon but just for a quick comparison here is mine with the links set up the way I just mentioned minus the steering and panhard, which I do believe are not correct like yours where as well.

IMG_3339 by T Buggy, on Flickr

IMG_3338 by T Buggy, on Flickr

This last picture shows that I can fully compress the front axle with the 3rd link the way it is and with the FMM installed.
IMG_3341 by T Buggy, on Flickr

I hope this helps out and if I am completely wrong then feel free to let me know so I can double check mine. LOL:lmao:

I picked up a custom set (which allows you to pick different diameter links and mix and match high clearance, SS or titanium links in the set. I picked up 1/4" lowers, 3/16" uppers and then titanium steering links. This helped me to easily identify which ones went where.

I definitely like this idea. Not only does it help with identifying 'which' links go 'where', but, going with the thicker SS for the lower, and thinner for the upper, would help to keep the CoG lower. Taking your idea one step further, I might have gone with the Delrin upper links, helping to lower the CoG even further...but, ultimately, I'd probably go with Ti uppers.

From all I've read, while SS seems to be the best/smartest option for lowers, and Ti seems to be the smarter option for steering, there still appears to be somewhat of a "debate" on what the best material for the uppers is.


~ More peace, love, and kindness would make the world a much better place

 

[B-MOW71]

I picked up a custom set (which allows you to pick different diameter links and mix and match high clearance, SS or titanium links in the set. I picked up 1/4" lowers, 3/16" uppers and then titanium steering links. This helped me to easily identify which ones went where.

I definitely like this idea. Not only does it help with identifying 'which' links go 'where', but, going with the thicker SS for the lower, and thinner for the upper, would help to keep the CoG lower.

I like this idea too and wish I would have thought about doing that when I ordered my set of links!

Next time I need links I'll be getting a custom set!"thumbsup"

 

[B-MOW71]

Picked up a TGH Mirrored Skid with drilling jigs and a Vader Products Delrin Skid Plate. I mainly bought the mirrored skid for the V1-C1 drilling jig so that I could drill the holes in the shock towers for the FMM in the right place. It also comes with the V3 drilling jig if installing the FMM in a V3 chassis. The mirrored skid I may use for my 2.Low trans in a future build. Not sure yet if I will use the Vader skid in this build, but I wanted to have one on hand just in case.






I bolted the shock towers together and screwed them down to a piece of wood so that I could drill the new hole to mount the FMM. The drilling jig lines up with the edges of the shock towers so that it places the new hole in the correct location.




Shock towers back on and FMM mounted.

 

[TK421]

Excellent work, my dude. The install looks super clean. What motor are you looking at?

Lou

 

[B-MOW71]

@B-MOW I think you have some of your links mixed up. I hope this helps out and if I am completely wrong then feel free to let me know so I can double check mine. LOL:lmao:

Ok, I think I figured out what is going on with the links. First off, when I ordered these links on the older website, I only had an option for chassis, axles and type of metal. I just went to the new updated website and noticed that there is more options to pick from when choosing links. By the looks of what I have, I believe these links are designed for the AR45 axles using the skid plate for the 2.Low trans. In the pictures attached, I placed my new 2.Low skid on top of the white GSpeed skid that is currently installed. The 2.Low skid is cut different and the pockets for the links sit in closer to the center which require longer rear links. I placed the longest links that came in my kit into the 2.Low skid and they line up perfectly with the rear axle. That means that the links I currently have mounted on the rear belong on the front. They would be the perfect length for the front to make a 11.4" wheelbase. I haven't checked yet, but I think I could swap out the upper rear hi-clear links for straights and use one of them on the front upper so that it will clear the FMM.

So what I may do is just reorder a pair of lower hi-clearance links for the rear to complete the set that I have now. Or I was thinking maybe just do what you did and order a custom set with 1/4" lowers and 3/16" uppers. I would much rather have a thicker lower link so that the rod end and the link are the same diameter which would allow rocks to slid better across them.

Hope all this makes sense! Here are the pics showing what I just tried to explain!:roll:

Excellent work, my dude. The install looks super clean. What motor are you looking at?

Lou

Thanks Lou!"thumbsup""thumbsup"

Undecided on electrics at the moment. I may use whatever I have on hand to get it up and running until I can get some good quality power in it!

 

[Topher Builds]

Nice progress B Mow! I was going to tell you about the differences in skid plates but you beat me to it :ror: the tgh skid and the Vader monkey skid both need slightly longer rear lower links. I think 8 or 9mm does the trick, which may be accomplished with the longer revo rod ends.

However, on the note of skids from what I can see you’ll need to flip your skid around all the holes are on the driver side. Before doing that, if you have a way to counter sink the holes on what would normally be the top of the skid then you’ll want to to do that since once the skid is flipped the originally countersunk side is now on top.

You may or may not have figured this out yet but I’ll throw it out there for anyone reading. You’ll also need to flip the shafts around in the creeper transfer case. It’s as simple as it sounds as you just open it up, flip everything 180, and button it back together. You’ll have to undo a screw on the slipper shaft and reverse that assembly before putting it back in the t case.

Here’s a pic of the install I got done on mine today in case it helps. "thumbsup"

The nice thing about the creeper is it sits lower than the other FMM tcase which gives a lot of room for a full depth interior.

 

[B-MOW71]

Nice progress B Mow! I was going to tell you about the differences in skid plates but you beat me to it :ror: the tgh skid and the Vader monkey skid both need slightly longer rear lower links. I think 8 or 9mm does the trick, which may be accomplished with the longer revo rod ends.

However, on the note of skids from what I can see you’ll need to flip your skid around all the holes are on the driver side. Before doing that, if you have a way to counter sink the holes on what would normally be the top of the skid then you’ll want to to do that since once the skid is flipped the originally countersunk side is now on top.

You may or may not have figured this out yet but I’ll throw it out there for anyone reading. You’ll also need to flip the shafts around in the creeper transfer case. It’s as simple as it sounds as you just open it up, flip everything 180, and button it back together. You’ll have to undo a screw on the slipper shaft and reverse that assembly before putting it back in the t case.

Here’s a pic of the install I got done on mine today in case it helps. "thumbsup"

The nice thing about the creeper is it sits lower than the other FMM tcase which gives a lot of room for a full depth interior.

Thanks TB!"thumbsup" Yeah, I'm learning the harder and more expensive way!:ror: Now that I've got the different skids and link lengths figured out I'm hoping to get the right links ordered and on the way so I can get this into a finished roller!

I did notice that I have the skid mounted in the wrong way to work with the flipped FMM and Creeper t-case. My plan is to swap out the white skid for the black Vader skid that I picked up with my last order. I plan on countersinking the skid the same way I did my Origin V3/VFD build. It turned out great and looks professionally drilled!:ror:

I did get my Creeper-T in the mail yesterday and I'm planning on flipping the gears tonight after work. (Thanks again for the heads-up on the Creeper going back up for sale!"thumbsup") I believe I remember seeing a video that TGH posted on YT or somewhere that shows how easy it is to flip the gears. I'll try to find it and rewatch it to refreshen my memory.

Thanks for the pic! Yours looks great mounted in there!"thumbsup"



And while I'm here, here's a pic of the TGH Creeper-T t-case that I found in my mailbox yesterday!

 

[TBuggy]

Nice progress B Mow! I was going to tell you about the differences in skid plates but you beat me to it :ror: the tgh skid and the Vader monkey skid both need slightly longer rear lower links. I think 8 or 9mm does the trick, which may be accomplished with the longer revo rod ends.

However, on the note of skids from what I can see you’ll need to flip your skid around all the holes are on the driver side. Before doing that, if you have a way to counter sink the holes on what would normally be the top of the skid then you’ll want to to do that since once the skid is flipped the originally countersunk side is now on top.

You may or may not have figured this out yet but I’ll throw it out there for anyone reading. You’ll also need to flip the shafts around in the creeper transfer case. It’s as simple as it sounds as you just open it up, flip everything 180, and button it back together. You’ll have to undo a screw on the slipper shaft and reverse that assembly before putting it back in the t case.

Here’s a pic of the install I got done on mine today in case it helps. "thumbsup"

The nice thing about the creeper is it sits lower than the other FMM tcase which gives a lot of room for a full depth interior.

@Topher Builds, what driveshafts are you using there? Originally with my build I was planning to use the stock SCX10 iii to save weight (being plastic). But as soon as I installed them noticed they are too big in diameter and rub while rotating. Just asking because now I will be ordering some driveshafts and just want to ordering new ones that have the same problem.

Thanks!

 

[B-MOW71]

Here’s a pic of the install I got done on mine today in case it helps. "thumbsup"

The nice thing about the creeper is it sits lower than the other FMM tcase which gives a lot of room for a full depth interior.

Hey TB, question. It looks like you are using the 3D printed shim under the Creeper. Is that correct? I've been trying to use the shim, but I can't get the screws to screw into the Creeper with the shim in place.