B-MOW's GSPEED V1-C1 Mojave Class 1 Build

[indybama]

Its comin along nicely brian. U n tb were talkin about which trans. Now, i dont have a gspeed...yet. But in my vs4, in runnin the stock o/d in the vfd. For axles i went with the trx4 portals with o/d in the front axle. It creeps along n it goes almost vertical climbs. Fwiw, im runnin a mamba x with the HH trailmaster BL 2700kv sensored motor.

I dont have any experiance with the axial portals, so i cant rightfully give u a comparison of how they differ in gearing

 

[Topher Builds]

Mail delivery yesterday. The Dravtech shocks from DLux Fab have arrived. I wasn't sure which color to go with, so I decided to try out the gun metal. These should look good with any color I decided to paint the body.

Those look awesome! Nice endorsement too. For no good reason I’ve never ran dravtechs other than I wasn’t sure about how tall they are. I’m going to need to grab a set soon.

Oh yeah, I completely forgot about the Creeper-T! That would be a good option to use with the FMM. It is a little more dollars, but would get me the 30%.

You can get the FMM (without a tcase) and the creeper T separately. It’s $10 cheaper than the FMM combo but you’ll need to add the tgh slotted skid ($22).

https://www.teamgaragehack.com/collections/mounts/products/tgh-forward-motor-mount

https://www.teamgaragehack.com/collections/transmissions/products/tgh-creeper-t

https://www.teamgaragehack.com/products/tgh-v2-slotted-delrin-skid?_pos=2&_sid=8f560f2d6&_ss=r

 

[CODYBOY]

Oh yeah, I completely forgot about the Creeper-T! That would be a good option to use with the FMM. It is a little more dollars, but would get me the 30%.

I'll be interested in hearing how your FMM 15% with OD gears turns out. That sounds like an easier path to achieve the ratio if it works out.

This is my first time dealing with axle and trans ratios, so my head is really starting to spin!:ror: Adding in the extra portal gears to the mix isn't helping either! I'm going to have to spend a little more time studying this to try to understand it better!

Thanks for the input TB! Appreciate it! I'll eventually figure something out! I'm dying to get this C1 build done and get it out on the rocks!

Hey Brian, I have a Creeper T that I could send you. It is for a build that is down the road a bit. Don't know if that would help you out with your build for now? You could just replace it when they are re-stocked. "thumbsup"
If so just PM me your addy and I will get it in the mail to you. ;-)

Ernie

 

[B-MOW71]

I LOVE my dravtechs, I need like, 3 more sets lol...

Lou

I hear ya! I'll be getting another set for sure!"thumbsup"

Its comin along nicely brian. U n tb were talkin about which trans. Now, i dont have a gspeed...yet. But in my vs4, in runnin the stock o/d in the vfd. For axles i went with the trx4 portals with o/d in the front axle. It creeps along n it goes almost vertical climbs. Fwiw, im runnin a mamba x with the HH trailmaster BL 2700kv sensored motor.

I dont have any experiance with the axial portals, so i cant rightfully give u a comparison of how they differ in gearing

Thanks bama!"thumbsup" Nice setup in your VS4! Thanks for the info! I'm not sure either how the TRX-4 portals and the AR45 portals differ. I'll have to look into that.

Those look awesome! Nice endorsement too. For no good reason I’ve never ran dravtechs other than I wasn’t sure about how tall they are. I’m going to need to grab a set soon.



You can get the FMM (without a tcase) and the creeper T separately. It’s $10 cheaper than the FMM combo but you’ll need to add the tgh slotted skid ($22).

Thanks TB! The Dravtech's are nice, but I've found that they work better in lighter rigs. I originally had my orange Dravs that are currently on my first GSpeed build on my VS4-10 PRO. The PRO is much heavier than my G-rig and the Dravs just didn't want to hold all the extra weight very well. I didn't like how it felt out on the rocks. Swapping these orange Dravs over to the G-rig was the perfect solution. They feel much better on the lighter rig and should perform much better.

Thanks again for the heads up on the FMM!"thumbsup" I see you mention the slotted skid. Does the Creeper use the slotted skid or is the bolt pattern the same as a 3-gear? The Creeper is still not showing up on the TGH website so I can't see how it bolts up.

Hey Brian, I have a Creeper T that I could send you. It is for a build that is down the road a bit. Don't know if that would help you out with your build for now? You could just replace it when they are re-stocked. "thumbsup"
If so just PM me your addy and I will get it in the mail to you. ;-)

Ernie

I appreciate the offer Ernie. Thank you!"thumbsup"

The Creeper-T is supposed to go back up for sale this Friday. Let me see if I'm lucky enough to pick one up before they are all sold out. If I'm not lucky enough to win the Creeper lottery, I may hit you up on the offer. I'll let you know!

 

[Topher Builds]

The CreeperT actually has the ax10 bolt pattern (same as 3 gear, I was mistaken earlier), where the other t case uses the slotted skid. So for the creeper T you’d want one of the Vader skids.

Good to know about the drav techs, looking forward to trying them out one day.

 

[B-MOW71]

The CreeperT actually has the ax10 bolt pattern (same as 3 gear, I was mistaken earlier), where the other t case uses the slotted skid. So for the creeper T you’d want one of the Vader skids.

Good to know about the drav techs, looking forward to trying them out one day.

Ok, great! I thought the Creeper had the same bolt pattern, but wasn't for sure. I'll have to pick up another Vader skid for this build. I should have gotten the Vader when I got the V1 chassis, but wasn't sure which way I was going to go with the trans at the time.

 

[B-MOW71]

The Intheworks links arrived. These are the high-clearance link set designed for the V1-C1 chassis using the white GSpeed skid and AR45 portal axles. This is my second set of links from them and they look great! Got them assembled and adjusted the lengths.

Decided to go ahead and get the links and shocks mounted to the axles and mount the axles to the chassis to see how it all looks together. Links look to be the exact length needed for the Yota body.

I still need to work on the panhard link. I need to pick up a bent rod end for it so that it will mount to the axle and not interfere with the truss on top of the axle. Also need to figure out the exact length of the link. For now I put on the stock SCX10.3 panhard link to get an idea of how it looks. This link is a tad too long when fully compressed. Once I get the bent rod end I'll be able to determine the correct length that I will need.

 

[smog]

Hey B, what’s going on? I can’t keep track of your build threads any more:ror:

I jest, it’s great to see you pumping out the rigs. You are clearly having fun with it...and selfishly, It gives me a better idea of what’s out there and which of these lcg pieces are mating properly.

That is a nice looking link set. In the Works didn’t include a panhard link in the set or is it just not the right end?

I almost pulled the trigger on some chassis parts to start a tgh build but am still not sure if they suit the majority of the crawling I do around here. My favourite crawl spots take me through a lot of sharp and jagged boulder fields that have rock bits poking out everywhere. I have the idea that I will be constantly high centering on jagged bits with a rig that is too low slung. I must say though, now seeing a few of these with portals, I am kinda leaning to go in that direction at some point.

Anyhoo, in for another build thread, keep em comin’!

 

[TBuggy]

Excuse me if you already mentioned this in your thread but what wheel base are you running on this one? Also hoping you got your creeper transmission you were hoping to get!? I picked one up this morning, also just checked and they are still in stock FYI, but probably not for long!

I have a V1 C1 build happening in the near future and I went with the 11.4" wheelbase. Keep up the good work, I have been enjoying seeing your progress!

 

[TK421]

You are gonna love this buggy. The set up looks great. What springs and shock oil did you decide to start with?

 

[B-MOW71]

Hey B, what’s going on? I can’t keep track of your build threads any more:ror:

I jest, it’s great to see you pumping out the rigs. You are clearly having fun with it...and selfishly, It gives me a better idea of what’s out there and which of these lcg pieces are mating properly.

That is a nice looking link set. In the Works didn’t include a panhard link in the set or is it just not the right end?

I almost pulled the trigger on some chassis parts to start a tgh build but am still not sure if they suit the majority of the crawling I do around here. My favourite crawl spots take me through a lot of sharp and jagged boulder fields that have rock bits poking out everywhere. I have the idea that I will be constantly high centering on jagged bits with a rig that is too low slung. I must say though, now seeing a few of these with portals, I am kinda leaning to go in that direction at some point.

Anyhoo, in for another build thread, keep em comin’!

Hey smog! A lot of building going on here! Don't feel bad, It's hard for me to keep track of them too. These little trucks are sooo addicting!

Yeah, the Intheworks link set did include all of the links including the panhard link. Since these custom builds don't seem to have instructions, I wasn't sure exactly how the panhard link was supposed to go on. I have since figured it out and I'll post the update shortly. I think I was over thinking it!:ror:

By what I've seen from your vids it looks like we run on similar terrain. Even though I don't have those beautiful red rocks here in my area like they do out west, there is a couple places that I've been to that these LCG chassis will perform great on. And there is a group of guys north of me that put on comps and run these rigs, so I may head up their way and try them out this year.

These LCG builds are a lot of fun to build and I think if you built on with portals it would do fine on the rocks you run on.

Excuse me if you already mentioned this in your thread but what wheel base are you running on this one? Also hoping you got your creeper transmission you were hoping to get!? I picked one up this morning, also just checked and they are still in stock FYI, but probably not for long!

I have a V1 C1 build happening in the near future and I went with the 11.4" wheelbase. Keep up the good work, I have been enjoying seeing your progress!

I'm not sure if I did mention it, but it is 11.4" and will/should fit under the TF2 Toyota body perfectly.

Glad to hear you got the Creeper! I jumped online right when they went up for sale Friday and picked one up myself. Also picked up the FMM on Wednesday when they went up for sale. So once they get shipped out and arrive I'll post up the pics.

Nice! Can't wait to see your future V1 C1 build!

You are gonna love this buggy. The set up looks great. What springs and shock oil did you decide to start with?

Hey thanks! I'm lovin' it so far!

Starting out with 40wt for now, but may switch to 30wt. As of right now I have the pink mini-t springs up front and the red mini-t springs in the rear. I've seen others use these springs on their builds, so I thought I would start out there.

 

[B-MOW71]

Well, I figured out the panhard link! It ends up I had the solution to my problem the whole time!:roll:

So, when I installed the front axle, it had the Bowhouse aluminum panhard bracket on it designed for the SCX10.3 panhard bar. With this setup on this chassis using the G-MD panhard bracket, the panhard link needs to be upfront of the axle instead of overtop of the axle. GSpeed makes an AR45 axle panhard mount that reinforces the weak stock panhard mount on the axle. I completely forgot that I had already purchased this mount for my other GSpeed build and I didn't use it.

Here is the GSpeed mount that is needed to move the panhard link from the back of the axle to the front of the axle.




And here is a look at it with the panhard link mounted. It moves the link to the front of the axle so that there is zero interference with the axle when the suspension is fully compressed. So there is no need for a bent rod end like I thought I was going to need to clear the truss on top of the axle.






I did have to make a new panhard link. The link that was supplied with the Intheworks set was too long. I used a piece of stainless all thread and a piece of stainless tubing. The total length eye-to-eye of the panhard link is 95mm.



Here is a look at the panhard link with the shocks fully extended and fully compressed. I now get full compression without any interference from the axle or chassis rails.

 

[ScaleLifeNewbie]

Looking good so far! "thumbsup"

As someone who has never done an LCG build, why are Dravetech's and Traxxas Big Bores used so much? Do they have an advantage over a GTS for example?

 

[B-MOW71]

Looking good so far! "thumbsup"

As someone who has never done an LCG build, why are Dravetech's and Traxxas Big Bores used so much? Do they have an advantage over a GTS for example?

Thanks man!"thumbsup"

The Drav's and Big Bores have been used by comp guys for years and are used because of their super smooth leak free design. They use a mini-t spring setup and are great for lighter rigs. This is only my second set that I have purchased, so I do not have much experience with them...yet! But from what I've seen, these are the way to go! My first set of Drav's I bought was for my VS4-10 PRO, but didn't like how they felt. My PRO is a heavier rig and the Drav's just didn't want to hold up the rig like I wanted it too. I put these shocks on my first GSpeed build which is lighter and they feel great on there since it is a lighter rig.

I do run the GTS shocks on most of my other rigs and love them. They are also super smooth and have been leak free for me so far. They too can be converted to use the mini-t spring setup like the Drav's and Big Bores use. And a set of four new take-offs can be found on eBay for around $50.

Check out this thread for more info on the Dravtech shocks:
http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/chas...s.html?highlight=DravTech+Comp+Shocks+Springs

 

[B-MOW71]

More parts and pieces have arrived. Last Wednesday the TGH FMM went back up for sale on their website so I jumped on it and picked one up. Also picked up the TGH CF FMM brackets for the V1-C1. Big thanks to @topherbuilds for the heads up that these were going on sale!"thumbsup"

Also picked up the Axial 56T spur and slipper pads needed to complete it.








Just look at these carbon fiber beauties mounted up! Man they look great!

Since I'm running the AR45's with the offset pumpkin, I had to mirror the FMM so that it would not interfere with the front driveshaft. Very easy to do. Just have to remove 3 screws in the FMM and reinsert the spur shaft in the opposite direction. By mirroring the FMM, you now have to drill new bottom mounting holes in the CF front shock towers. I went ahead and put an order in for the mirrored skid that TGH offers that comes with the drilling jigs needed to place the holes in the right location.








Since I'm super impatient, I threw on some wheels and tires to see how it would look with the body on. I noticed that the front axle is sitting to far forward in the front fender wheel arch. I'll have to measure the front links and see how much I need to adjust them to get them to line up with the body. The link set that I ordered was for the 11.4" wheelbase, but now I'm wondering if I ordered them for the wrong axle??? I'll have to go back and take a look at what I originally ordered.

Anyways, here's the pics with the body on.

 

[cutlaSS]

Can you lengthen the upper links to clock the front axle and shorten your WB? or would the mess up your caster too bad? BTW looks badass"thumbsup"

 

[ScaleLifeNewbie]

Thanks man!"thumbsup"

The Drav's and Big Bores have been used by comp guys for years and are used because of their super smooth leak free design. They use a mini-t spring setup and are great for lighter rigs. This is only my second set that I have purchased, so I do not have much experience with them...yet! But from what I've seen, these are the way to go! My first set of Drav's I bought was for my VS4-10 PRO, but didn't like how they felt. My PRO is a heavier rig and the Drav's just didn't want to hold up the rig like I wanted it too. I put these shocks on my first GSpeed build which is lighter and they feel great on there since it is a lighter rig.

I do run the GTS shocks on most of my other rigs and love them. They are also super smooth and have been leak free for me so far. They too can be converted to use the mini-t spring setup like the Drav's and Big Bores use. And a set of four new take-offs can be found on eBay for around $50.

Check out this thread for more info on the Dravtech shocks:
http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/chas...s.html?highlight=DravTech+Comp+Shocks+Springs

That makes since. I'd like to try a set sometime, I have my 10ii setup to be as light as possible. Just the only thing heavy is my battery. I've been debating ordering a few lightweight 3S batteries just to see how light I could go. It's running GTS's with no springs to sit really low, and I like it a lot. It really suprised me how much better it climbs/side hills sitting so much lower. I may even convert it to a Gspeed chassis.

Thanks for edumicating me"thumbsup":lmao:

 

[B-MOW71]

Can you lengthen the upper links to clock the front axle and shorten your WB? or would the mess up your caster too bad? BTW looks badass"thumbsup"

Thanks cutlaSS!"thumbsup"

The axle is sitting dead nut where it should be, just to far forward. It would screw up the caster too much to do that. Once I figure out the length, I'll just cut more threads in the links and cut them to the length I need. Thanks for the tip though!"thumbsup"

That makes since. I'd like to try a set sometime, I have my 10ii setup to be as light as possible. Just the only thing heavy is my battery. I've been debating ordering a few lightweight 3S batteries just to see how light I could go. It's running GTS's with no springs to sit really low, and I like it a lot. It really suprised me how much better it climbs/side hills sitting so much lower. I may even convert it to a Gspeed chassis.

Thanks for edumicating me"thumbsup":lmao:

If you're running the GTS shocks already, then I'd leave it alone. You've already made a significant upgrade by choosing the GTS's!"thumbsup"

Now converting it to a GSpeed chassis would be another great upgrade if you're wanting to take it to the next level!8)

 

[ScaleLifeNewbie]

If you're running the GTS shocks already, then I'd leave it alone. You've already made a significant upgrade by choosing the GTS's!"thumbsup"

Now converting it to a GSpeed chassis would be another great upgrade if you're wanting to take it to the next level!8)

I need to learn more about Gspeed and what chassis to get before I do it lol. But I can see that happening in the near future....:ror:

 

[cutlaSS]

Thanks cutlaSS!"thumbsup"

The axle is sitting dead nut where it should be, just to far forward. It would screw up the caster too much to do that. Once I figure out the length, I'll just cut more threads in the links and cut them to the length I need. Thanks for the tip though!"thumbsup"




If you're running the GTS shocks already, then I'd leave it alone. You've already made a significant upgrade by choosing the GTS's!"thumbsup"

Now converting it to a GSpeed chassis would be another great upgrade if you're wanting to take it to the next level!8)

I see. I'm not much of a tuner so that much positive caster is needed? I've been setting my trucks at or near zero, maybe I'll try adding some. Thanks