No but they gotta keep in mind the initial buyer of the RTR trucks, because these are billed as STOCK replacement, meaning they have to work with all stock components... those come with axial ends, and if they break a housing... they buy a TKO housing thinking "oh thats cooler looking", guess what, they are going to use axial ends still. Quit assuming everyone knows everything or is in the know. Any idea how many people are into this as a hobby and still don't know what a "revo end" is or what it means?
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Ottsix TKO10
- Thread starter FloridaCrawler
- Start date
No but they gotta keep in mind the initial buyer of the RTR trucks, because these are billed as STOCK replacement, meaning they have to work with all stock components... those come with axial ends, and if they break a housing... they buy a TKO housing thinking "oh thats cooler looking", guess what, they are going to use axial ends still. Quit assuming everyone knows everything or is in the know. Any idea how many people are into this as a hobby and still don't know what a "revo end" is or what it means?
I can see both sides of this but I have to say that the majority of people that start to look to the aftermarket are going to know what a Revo end is and what it does long before they find out what a TKO10 is or at least real damn close to the same time. Links are so common across so many rigs that buying or building your own is more than likely one of the first things to happen to new trucks especially with such noodley stock links that immediately start showing their limitations. Plus, what does it take to go with the well known standard in the aftermarket and just put a line in the description, "Revo rod ends recommended". Don't stick with the stock design because it fits stock plastic inferior balls. That was the whole reason for producing this new axle in the first place, improvement. "thumbsup"
altd896
RCC Addict
See, thats what I meant, if only I'd have been able to be that clear without being clouded by the frustration of having to something that I still think shouldn't need fixing.
gottorque
RCC Addict
Making the most out of that high pinion output. No links or driveshaft to get in the way "thumbsup"
What chassis are you using?
Are you thinking you need to adjust the wheelbase because of these housings are it's just needed at the same time? Cus the output on these is already angled up so in theory leaving it as is should work fine for these and will give the improved angle.
Its not to adjust the wheel base. The upper links get shorter because of the new trusses. To keep the axle rotation correct you change your upper links. I was just trying to save myself some guess work. My upper links are custom anyways so it's not to had to adjust myself.
gottorque
RCC Addict
Yes lots of people have, including me. When using TKO specific tubes, the only material you have to remove is the tangs where stock c hubs normally mount. You are replacing them with splined tangs that are part of the tubes. With the splines you retain the ability to clock the c hub and it keeps the c hub from rotating.
But when you buy the short beef tubs don't you have to shorten the axle length so when you add the beef tube you aren't adding to the track width of the vehicle? Or am I missing something. I assumed the wide beef tube was for using the axle in its stock form and the narrow beef five was for narrowing the axle.
Sent from my SM-T320 using Tapatalk
Wide means using xr10 universals in their factory width. Narrow means narrowing the axle to maintain roughly stock scx10 track width.
So if you are trying to maintain stockish width. Get the narrow tubes, cut the housings, install wraith/xr10 chubs and knuckles and modify some xr10 universal tangs to fit in the locker.
Look at my post on the previous page...it shows exactly how the narrow tubes work.
So if you are trying to maintain stockish width. Get the narrow tubes, cut the housings, install wraith/xr10 chubs and knuckles and modify some xr10 universal tangs to fit in the locker.
Look at my post on the previous page...it shows exactly how the narrow tubes work.
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gottorque
RCC Addict
I use cut down xr10 vvds. If you want to cut down wraith shafts, you'd need 2 long sides.
When you say VVD, do you mean specifically the Vanquish products VVDs?
Any xr10 universal/cvd would work. I typically use the Axial xr10 universals and cut them down and file new tangs. I know some vendors even provide this as a service.
If you get wide tubes, then you dont have to modify the xr10 universals/cvds/vvds.
If you want to maintain roughly stock scx10 width, from my experience you either have to modify them yourself or find a vendor who sells them already modified. "thumbsup"
