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Tips and Tricks Thread

I read through all the tips n' tricks but i didn't see any one mention it. don't cut off the bump stops and take acouple and cut them down and put them on top of the body post mount's to eliminate the side to side "slop". simple and easy. "thumbsup"
 
I didn't see it mentioned so...

If you don't want to buy new tires for your brand new truck, but the flat irons don't cut it on your trails, cut every other lug off the outside edge. I alternated back and forth. made a world of difference.
420232_235581289869117_100002517425402_493112_1088072534_n.jpg


403091_235581069869139_100002517425402_493110_1024303802_a.jpg
 
Wheel whells, or whatever it is called :ror:
In this photo, you can see where i placed my lower mounted battery (lipo).
slijkkast.JPG

Everybody uses CD spindle covers, but all the ones I had laying around were too brittle. I found Gladware throwaway sandwich-sized containers to be a perfect fit.

IMG_2196.sized.jpg


IMG_2197.sized.jpg


Each container will make two wells.

IMG_2200.sized.jpg
 
Everybody uses CD spindle covers, but all the ones I had laying around were too brittle. I found Gladware throwaway sandwich-sized containers to be a perfect fit.



IMG_2197.sized.jpg


Each container will make two wells.

Could we please have a side photo with the wheel off
to see how you've mounted you DIY wheel arches.."thumbsup"

Sean.
.
..
 
hahaha 2 winches, 2spd trans, dig and steering im guessing?

Yep!



Could we please have a side photo with the wheel off
to see how you've mounted you DIY wheel arches.."thumbsup"

Sean.
.
..

Here ya go:

IMG_2202.sized.jpg


It's attached at the shock hoop screw holes. I just swapped the stock flat heads out for buttonheads a couple mm longer. The wells fit this body so tight I almost don't need body pins.

Fitting tips:
DON'T PAINT until it's trimmed and do one corner at a time with the BODY MOUNTED. Unscrew the top screw from the shock, cut the container in half, and stuff it up into the wheel well location. Slide it back and forth and up and down until you find a good fit that suits the body and wheel location. Use a sharpie to mark the location of both screws at the bottom of the shock hoop. Drill the holes and mount it, then you can trace along the frame rail and mark where you want to cut the back edge so it doesn't show under your body/bumper. You might have to cut a big hole at the top to clear the shock, or you might just need one hole to pass the screw through.

I first painted with Tamiya paint for lexan, but it didn't bond with the plastic. Krylon Fusion seems to be working better.
 
Yep!





Here ya go:

IMG_2202.sized.jpg


It's attached at the shock hoop screw holes. I just swapped the stock flat heads out for buttonheads a couple mm longer. The wells fit this body so tight I almost don't need body pins.

Fitting tips:
DON'T PAINT until it's trimmed and do one corner at a time with the BODY MOUNTED. Unscrew the top screw from the shock, cut the container in half, and stuff it up into the wheel well location. Slide it back and forth and up and down until you find a good fit that suits the body and wheel location. Use a sharpie to mark the location of both screws at the bottom of the shock hoop. Drill the holes and mount it, then you can trace along the frame rail and mark where you want to cut the back edge so it doesn't show under your body/bumper. You might have to cut a big hole at the top to clear the shock, or you might just need one hole to pass the screw through.

I first painted with Tamiya paint for lexan, but it didn't bond with the plastic. Krylon Fusion seems to be working better.

Thanks.."thumbsup"
 
I just picked up my SCX10 last night from the hobby shop. I'm brand new with this truck so this has been a great thread but I did find one thing I loved right away. I hate having loose body clips and I found a location on the rear cage with 4 small holes. They work perfect for stashing your body clips when you take them off so you don't lose them. I plan on doing the hinge mod and may leave some clips there as spares in case I lose one of the front ones.


Here is a picture to show you what I mean (not my image, thank you Google images, I added the arrows):
OCfi6.jpg
 
Cut V notches in my tire foam then added 4 oz of BB's in each tire. BB's are always rolling staying in the bottom of the tire keeping the center of gravity as low to the ground as possible!!
 
Cut V notches in my tire foam then added 4 oz of BB's in each tire. BB's are always rolling staying in the bottom of the tire keeping the center of gravity as low to the ground as possible!!

How do the bbs roll around the foam?

Sent from my ADR6400L using Tapatalk
 
The following two tips might help someone - I waited until these were tested and proven to work well before I shared them (wish everyone would do that also - ha).

#1 - Receiver and ESC tray. I liked the way this turned out and will use the same technique when building my second SCX-10. Take the plastic lid from a tall peanut plastic container, a few zip ties and two balloons. Works superb and easy to access while providing great protection from water.

myscx100224.jpg


myscx100223.jpg


myscx100225.jpg


mycrawler11mar2012018.jpg


#2 - Battery placement. I use only 3S 2200 mAh batteries which seem to last "forever" and although eventually I would like to put the battery over the front axle and as low as possible, this solution works very well. This is the battery placement using only a piece of foam. Holds extremely secure and installed in "no time."

arscx10battery01.jpg


And some discoveries from my recent kit build (Dingo):
  • Here are a few build notes which are probably only relevant to the kit I'm building:
  • Page 23, step #29, I used part AX80005[1] instead of AX80032[1] shown
  • Page 23, step #29, I used part AX80005[2] instead of AX80005[4] shown
  • There are several build steps which use fasteners which are similar in size so you have to be careful. One example is on page 21, step #23 --> don't confuse the fasteners AXA0414 with AXA465.
  • Page 19, step #18 --> omit part #AX80009[5]
  • Make sure the axle bevel gears are seated by pulling them away from the transmission case after they have been inserted. You can probably use a 2mm hex to thread through the hole in the shaft to pull them down (no need to over do it - a simple tug works well).
  • Spacer required with Y-piece using 3 link suspension --> LINK
 
I like that lid idea. If you could find the right size of container, you could probably even route all the wires out the bottom (the hole you made) and then screw on the container. As long as you find a way to seal the wires, it would be a watertight container...

Something like this:
il_fullxfull.289159035.jpg
 
so how do you mirror the transmission exactly. I have only had my scx10 for 2 days now and have loved every second. This truck is a blast
 
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