• Welcome to RCCrawler Forums.

    It looks like you're enjoying RCCrawler's Forums but haven't created an account yet. Why not take a minute to register for your own free account now? As a member you get free access to all of our forums and posts plus the ability to post your own messages, communicate directly with other members, and much more. Register now!

    Already a member? Login at the top of this page to stop seeing this message.

Tips and Tricks Thread

+1 on the body tilt by making hinges at the rear!

I made some with some wire hold-downs. I'm going to be replacing the nylon ones with metal ones as soon as I can locate some that are small enough. Granted this will only work on the Honcho since it works with the rear cage, but it's SO much easier to only have to deal with the front body clips "thumbsup"

I'm going to look into that

I'd be afraid of the metal ones wearing through the plastic though, lol
 
I did the plastic 1/4" straps for the tilt body as well. Works awesome. I bought them at canadian tire for $1.99 for 6 of them. Great mod!
 
I sold the truck but picking up another soon.

Here's a couple looking back through pics.

Notched the frame and made some shackle tow points

139-1.jpg

the aluminum steering links is a must too

I also did wheely king shocks with cut down coils..flex was nuts but unrealistic. I think on my next scx10, im gonna leave in the stock shocks..for a little while atleast LOL!

010-8.jpg
 
A cheap easy tip and purely cosmetic tip is top paint the front locking hub red to simulate a real one. Check out pic, this is after minths of use and i just redid them tonight. This is a honcho with dingo body and plastic links waiting for allum in the mail

Also ya can see my rock sliders, i got these for 15 bucks off ebay almost a yr ago and have beat the snot out them. Been on 4 differant trucks now. Just repaint and good to go. I dont know or recall who made them sorry

IMG_0023.jpg


And i almost forgot about the hilift kit for the shocks. Buddy made these for me after he bought or saw a set. I use them off and on depending on tires I use or body.

IMG_0469.jpg
 
Gear shroud is that knitting/ sewing stuff for crosspoint stitching I think. Got it at a craft store. Did have it as an inner wheelwell/ mudflaps sort of, but with the new battery placement, that wouldn't work

Took imasuperbleeder's idea for the battery, and made it work for me. Scrap aluminum for the tray, bent up paper clip for the back part, and a cut hairband with paperclips attached to secure the batt in place

295935_275458832488752_100000739137592_909714_1940304430_n.jpg


299739_275458889155413_100000739137592_909715_735844611_n.jpg


Here you can see where that mesh was
308486_274078065960162_100000739137592_905015_607224066_n.jpg
 
Great idea for a gear cover! My chick was driving her honcho without the body and flipped it on the rock course, BAM! whipped out the spur gear. I was thinking about some piano wire or tube work to build a guard, but that cross stich stuff will do a great job.
 
To go real cheap and real simple on the hinged body, just run two zip ties through the rear cage and around the bumper.

This is what Im doing till my magnet set up is permanent, and it works fine, and if I need to remove the body entirely, just snip the ties.
 
kind of trick

Hey guys i found a way for the honcho guys to have bed for the rear tube section,use a losi desert truck body and cut the bed sides off from the cab.than cut 2 slots on top of the bed sides for the 2 rear screws that hold the diamond plate on.loosin the screws and slide the bed sides under the screws and tighten.one problem i see is the top of the bed sides dont line up with the bottom of the windows on the body but the bottom of the bed sides is at the bottom of the body so putting spacers would lose the alighnment at the bottom but non the less it ends up looking alright and gives you bed sides.ill try and post pics later sorry if its kinda hard to understand but its an alright trick and looks pretty decent
 
Running in water

Heres a tip if your running in water, At both end of the diffs on the top there are 2 hole for mountings, these holes go all the way through and will let water in..

So a simply tip is to block up the holes with some small screws/bolts..

Before pic

crawlerpics010.jpg


After pic

crawlerpics011.jpg
 
I added Revo links for the rear lowers & alum Traxxas 7075 links for the front lowers... I had them laying around from my TLT crawler. (they both are almost exact length as the stock plastic links. fronts are about 1/16" longer & rear revos were about 1/8 longer) Also mirrored the trans.
DSC04924.jpg
 
Last edited:
I am doing a rubicon TJ build, did some new body posts out of HPI posts and a stock backing brace

009-13.jpg
 
Heres a tip if your running in water, At both end of the diffs on the top there are 2 hole for mountings, these holes go all the way through and will let water in..

So a simply tip is to block up the holes with some small screws/bolts..

Before pic

crawlerpics010.jpg


After pic

crawlerpics011.jpg

I had the same idea but i used some black epoxy. Smoothed it out and u almost cant even notice.
 
Back
Top