Tips and Tricks Thread

[AX10wannabe]

i have a habit for losing body pins and a couple of friends do this and it seems to work well. im also considering tying the bastards to the truck!!

but i took a small zip-tie and put it on the body pin then i took a chunk of nitro fuel line and slipped it onto the zip-tie, took another zip and zipped it onto zip number 1 and then trimmed the excess off. it works well and gives you something to grab onto!!

 

[echology]

also used threadlock to act as a sealent to that screws

 

[rockeater]

I been meaning to post this for over a week but my son took some stock plastic (servo mounts) and used them to raise the front bumper on his honcho. I thought it was clever since we never even mention anything about it.Seems to raise it about 1/4in Anyways on to the pics.

And


a easy cheesy thing is if your all plates in the honch bumbper get messed up just flip em around. Two free tips


now taking beer donations

 

[steele42]

Rockeater, your son is a genius. You taught him well. I have a bumper tip to go along with your. I didn't like my approach angle on my honcho, so I was quick to just order a new one. My tip is that if you are going to ditch the stock bumper anyway, you might as well try to modify it first. You're out nothing if you don't end up liking it. So on my second scx10 I decided to try something before I just replaced it.

Stock

Shaved

I don't take credit for the idea, I saw it here on the forum. But it's really easy to try. And its more satisfying when you did something yourself instead of just buying one.

 

[steele42]

Here is a picture of what this mod is describing...... "thumbsup"

Another tip to go along with removing the bumpstops. A couple of my shocks that came on my RTR rig had so much oil in them that they still wouldn't fully compress after I took the bumpstops out. If you remove the cap and dump a couple drops of oil out you will get full compression out of your shock. Only about 3 of my 8 shocks (2 different rigs) had too much oil in them. Just something worth noting.

 

[Bunce]

i think this forum thread is the right place to maybe request help with a mod? I have a few mods i was wondering about but i am quite new to scalers and modding so i might let the big guns have a go at helping me out? if not thats cool.

First problem i have is the my front drive shaft, no matter how tight i made the grub screw, does not want to hold onto the transmission. It slips off within 10 metres of drive and i have to stop and push it back on and tighten it up with an allen key. I could use grip tight to hold the grub screw tight but its as if the grub screw cannot hold onto the flat surface of the transmission output. any ideas?

second problem is that i bought the hilux body to put on it and was wondering if anyone had a hilux body on their scx10 (mines the dingo RTR) and could show me how they mounted it? also where can i buy the back cabin plate? it didn't come with the shell pack.

i also have my own plans to really fix the quite bad approach angle on the dingo. will have pics once i have finished up all the measurements and drilling holes. Ill document all the phases.

Thanks guys.

Bunce.

 

[steele42]

i think this forum thread is the right place to maybe request help with a mod? I have a few mods i was wondering about but i am quite new to scalers and modding so i might let the big guns have a go at helping me out? if not thats cool.

First problem i have is the my front drive shaft, no matter how tight i made the grub screw, does not want to hold onto the transmission. It slips off within 10 metres of drive and i have to stop and push it back on and tighten it up with an allen key. I could use grip tight to hold the grub screw tight but its as if the grub screw cannot hold onto the flat surface of the transmission output. any ideas?

second problem is that i bought the hilux body to put on it and was wondering if anyone had a hilux body on their scx10 (mines the dingo RTR) and could show me how they mounted it? also where can i buy the back cabin plate? it didn't come with the shell pack.

i also have my own plans to really fix the quite bad approach angle on the dingo. will have pics once i have finished up all the measurements and drilling holes. Ill document all the phases.

Thanks guys.

Bunce.

You may want to start a build thread if you are going to document all of the phases of your build. This thread probably isn't the place for that. And if you are looking for asnwers to specific questions, try the search option. These have all been answered elsewhere. But they are good tips to include here anyway, so here they are.
The driveline problem is a common one. Locktite definitely helps. And some people will put a set screw or even a button head screw on the oposite side to create opposing force.

I've done this to both of my rigs. I would suggest doing it on the axle side and transmition side of the drive shaft.

The cab back for the hilux body can be found at rpp hobby. Reign Tamiya Hi Lux Cab Back with window

The approach angle is something you can solve by modifying your current bumper, using bumper risers, or buying a new bumper with a better approach angle. There are some example already posted in this thread.

 

[GI-John]

Great ideas, thanks!

 

[jhop1]

You may want to start a build thread if you are going to document all of the phases of your build. This thread probably isn't the place for that. And if you are looking for asnwers to specific questions, try the search option. These have all been answered elsewhere. But they are good tips to include here anyway, so here they are.
The driveline problem is a common one. Locktite definitely helps. And some people will put a set screw or even a button head screw on the oposite side to create opposing force.

I've done this to both of my rigs. I would suggest doing it on the axle side and transmition side of the drive shaft.

The cab back for the hilux body can be found at rpp hobby. Reign Tamiya Hi Lux Cab Back with window

The approach angle is something you can solve by modifying your current bumper, using bumper risers, or buying a new bumper with a better approach angle. There are some example already posted in this thread.

You had the shafts come off since u done this?

 

[steele42]

You had the shafts come off since u done this?

Nope. They're solid "thumbsup"

 

[steele42]

The stock dingo bumper comes with shackle hangers, so build your own tow shackles. http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/scale-accessories/353538-my-take-scale-tow-shackles.html

 

[Tim.V]

Because i saw that a lot of people used my photo, i will now explain the full story that is behind the foto.

First of all, thanks for using my photo "thumbsup"
It's a photo taken in Belgium. A verry little country.

This is the photo:

Note that the left shock is longer then the right shock, this is because the right spring isn't unther tension, so the right shock isn't fully "out".

And the story:
Remove the hood (the peace on top where you moint the shock to the chassis). Get rid of all the oil. Do like 5 drips of oil back in. Why 5? Lubrication Then the shock go smooth in and out. Now turn the hood back on.

Next step. Remove the rodend at the bottem of the shock (turn). Hold the shaft with a pliers but don't forget to use a small towel between the shaft and the pliers, or u will damage the shaft. Now remove the rubber bumpstop. And turn the rodend back on :roll:

Here are some other tips i did:

Another great tip, make your own license plate:

Make your own 4 link:
Front:

Rear:

Turn the screw around, now the "extra" peace that sticks out is on top, and not below, so no hang up any more!

How i reased the front bumper:

Wheel whells, or whatever it is called :ror:
In this photo, you can see where i placed my lower mounted battery (lipo).

How to connect the lights on your body with the chassis? Use a servo extention cable, cut it and use the begin and end of the wire to connect. Now you can unplug the body from the chassis. "thumbsup"

 

[Armistice]

How did you make the license plate exactly? Sticker paper?

I also tried the same bumper remount method, but was just too flimsy for my liking. I know it would hold, but didn't like it

As for the steering link bolt, that's a good idea. My only problem is if you'll be able to get your allan wrench in there after rocks have been drug across the head and torn up the hole. A hex head would be better because it'd take a lot to tear up the head, so you'd be able to remove it even after years of hard bashing

 

[Tim.V]

I made the licenseplate in Paint and printed it on a normal paper. Then i used an L schaped peace of lexan that was left of the body and plastified it on that. I mounted it by drilling a small hole in it where the screw goos trough that holds the spare tire mount.

 

[nicinthebox]

For brighter honcho lights you can take the lenses and covers off the light buckets. It actually makes a big difference

 

[SmashinOn42s]

Anyone have any tips for axle weights? What about gaining axle width? Im new to RC crawling and want my RC to look more like my 1:1 by gaining a little width.

 

[Pgambardella]

If you take your bumper off it will not hit rocks in front of your rc and will not get hung up

 

[heinie_21]

Anyone have any tips for axle weights? What about gaining axle width? Im new to RC crawling and want my RC to look more like my 1:1 by gaining a little width.

Your 1:1 has a wider stance than Axial axles? Is it street legal? Lol. Do you have full widths under a fenderless CJ? lol


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[JtsYfz450]

Heres a quick easy one. Turning the motor/tranny center plate 180 degrees. Ive noticed alot less torque twist after doing that.

Another cheap on is a BEC ie Castle Creations. Powers up the reciever and servo's from the battery pack.

how exactly did u turn it

 

[AX10wannabe]

how exactly did u turn it

unbolt the motor/trans skidplate from chassis, you'll have to take off the 4 lower links too.. but then spin the whole skid around 180* and bolt it back in so the spur gear is facing forward."thumbsup":mrgreen: