Hulksta Berg w/DeLux precision

[filotr14lsdude]

I mounted my esc within the chassis on my riddler. Took a little placing, but it works. I filed the screws down.
This is also with the shock mounted to the rear of the skid. I have the dual shock parts, they will be mounted soon.
With the dual shicks I think it would fit much better. My RX is mounted where your esc's are. My BEC is mounted within the cab, near where your rx is.
I'm also running my battery behind the motor on the dlux mount.

 

[Stuck]

Here is the link to Krazed Builds elec tray

Berg BTM Electronics Mount

 

[Postclanker]

Thanks for finding that Joel....looks like it might get in the way though

Combination of Blandon and filodude's suggestions got me thinking...I had a couple FXRs smashed...with the BEC Not necessary
I suppose I could bust it up and spread it around like filo did...makes me wonder if 2 FXRs will fit in that belly cavity side by side ...you could run the BEC behind the shocks and the rcvr where I have the esc now. Could be a rats nest of wires though...

Food for thought

 

[Krawler Konceptz]

Skins ready to ship"thumbsup"

 

[Heckler]

It's a PITA to do on these axles, even with the drilled hole to access the screw, what I did was make another cover for the non-motor side out of plastic, doesnt need to match the outline of the trans it can be rectangle just as long as the screw holes are there (obviously I do this with the axle off the rig) I cut out a large section where the gears mesh then set the mesh, tighten the motor down so it wont move, then replace the side plate with the original one.

If you notice that you can get them good then the mesh gets tight or loose again check the aluminum bearing retainer that presses into the side plate, the hole in mine was milled off center so if it spun a bit the mesh would be off, I had to make a new one to correct the issue.

The other thing that bothers me is the motormount gear mesh thing.
Not sure why this is kicking my ass...
When I ran the motors, my mesh was too tight in the front motor...So I tried to adjust it...well, I can't even engage the gears now. It took forever to get this the first time...now I get to take it apart and try again. I'm sure I'm doing something stupid.

I'll take it apart again in the morning
Maybe I should work on something else for awhile

 

[Stuck]

Thanks for finding that Joel....looks like it might get in the way though

Combination of Blandon and filodude's suggestions got me thinking...I had a couple FXRs smashed...with the BEC Not necessary
I suppose I could bust it up and spread it around like filo did...makes me wonder if 2 FXRs will fit in that belly cavity side by side ...you could run the BEC behind the shocks and the rcvr where I have the esc now. Could be a rats nest of wires though...

Food for thought

Well i don't have this chassis or the axles so I guess I'm probably not the person to listen to, but Im pretty sure that the local guys running these axles are able to utilize the elec tray. Winner shows one on his rig. I say just get it running and come out to Genentec this weekend for the Nor Cal comp. You can get ideas from other rigs to fine tune yours to where you like it. My offer still stands if you need any help"thumbsup"

 

[Postclanker]

You're the man Joel....thanks "thumbsup"

Thank you too Hekler....just for confirming I'm not alone here. I've tried this a couple of times this past week....throw up my hands and walk away. After work is not my most patient time sometimes....was hoping that the weekend would find me a bit more mellow and patient...try it again. I had the same idea for a plate that exposes the gears and holds the tranny together to get the mesh right and then put it back to the original side plate. I could use the original plate as a guide I suppose....got me thinking of that again.

I do not want to give up...too much invested in this right now...but the thought had occurred to me to sell it and go back to XR axles. They are smooth as butter. I still have the links...

I might come up to Genentech tomorrow and bring it with and see if anybody can give me a hand....was hoping to have it ready to crawl...kind of discouraged about that.

Thanks for the help guys "thumbsup"

 

[Postclanker]

So, still have a lot of negativity surrounding this build....still trying to figure out what to do.

I'm sure other users of these axles and tranny housings have found work arounds...but they are not all sharing here.

I did venture out to the local crawl yesterday and got to talk to a few who'd talk to me. Those that did, thanks for that....

I must say, Heckler's rig was beautiful, and very well thought out. He put a lot of effort into making the Superlights work and gave me some tips. If I can get an extra non motor side plate from Eric both front and rear, I can make a template to hold the gears in place and adjust the mesh properly. Kind of an expensive work around...we'll see if I can get just the sides without purchasing the whole tranny enclosure.

If not, I may modify the ones I have and chunk this this effort if it doesn't work and get some regular tubes and probably some Sloski cases...his at least have a secondary door for mesh adjustment. And let this frustration sit on my bench...doubt I'll ever be able to sell this to anyone after this. Sure wish I'd have spent a little time researching this axle before I jumped at the bling.

Live and learn
I will post pics of what I do.....thanks for looking

 

[Erik D_lux]

Sorry youre having issues. Sounds like its just with the gear mesh or is it with the gears also?

If there is one thing that can frustrate a Berg "newbie" more than anything, its the gears.

While it is frustrating to deal with gears on a Berg at first, the really great news is that all that needs to be done 99.9% of the time is to just go out and run the car for a couple of packs and let the gears mesh with each other. This can be the hardest thing for some people to understand because they want the gears to be super loosey goosey and spin like an AX10 axle but that is just not how Berg gears work (luckily). Berg gears are tight in the beginning (I have had plenty of stock cases that wont even turn when new) and this is a great thing because its what makes the Berg so tough, they have great gears and great gear mesh.

If its simply the mesh of the motor and 2nd gear, have you tried listening to the mesh? If I understand right, you have driven the car and it sounds off? If so, it sounds like you have a good ear so you should be able to do it the way I suggest....

If you have not yet, drill a hole for the upper motor screw. Then loosen the motor just enough to move the motor (it should be tight and a bit hard to move the motor). With the motor being able to move, spin the wheels. Does it sound good? No? Move the motor back or forward and spin the wheels again. Do this until it does sound good. You could even have a friend help you and use the throttle on the radio while moving the motor and you can really hear the gear mesh pitch change sound then.

If youre using a smaller pinion like a 12 or 13, try a 14. Using smaller pinions make it harder to get good mesh.

I hope that helps. I know how frustrating things can be while learning and this hobby is no exception as there is a lot to learn and understand before being able to drive a car like this.

Let me know if there is anything else I can do to help.

 

[winnerone23]

Drive time, drive time, drive time.. They will smooth out.

I know you have it close Greg. When we talked, I might of left it out or gave too much info. I locked my drill on the stub and ran it back and forth (per axle) till it quieted down a little. It didn't seem to take much.

 

[Curcal]

Clanker..... let me know if you likr to come out to Sacramento. Ill help get that thing together and we could crawl at Folsom on some epic rock. Send me a PM if your interested. Id suggest to meet aome wheee in the middle but theres not a ton of rock in between, if weather is good on the 30th BYB is having a comp near Bodega Bay. I hope we can figure it out before then.

 

[Heckler]

Greg, just to confirm you are using metric pinion's correct?

If you want to drop the axles off to me I will get them turning for you, I work in Redwood City so it shouldn't be too far of a trip for you.

 

[Curcal]

Agreed the pinions should be metric 48p or Mod .6. Use the following part numbers. The Robinson part numbers will be RRP1112, RRP1113, and RRP1114.

The last two digits specify the number of teeth on the pinion. I think they go up to 16 tooth.

 

[Krawler Kev]

Agreed the pinions should be metric 48p or Mod .6. Use the following part numbers. The Robinson part numbers will be RRP1112, RRP1113, and RRP1114.

The last two digits specify the number of teeth on the pinion. I think they go up to 16 tooth.

If you like wheel speed, use RRP1115. 15T FTW."thumbsup"

 

[winnerone23]

Greg, just to confirm you are using metric pinion's correct?

Wouldn't that be a riot! Lol..

 

[Postclanker]

Greg, just to confirm you are using metric pinion's correct?

:shock: good call Larry "thumbsup"

I need to sit down....I am a bonified berg newbie

I did not know they were metric gears ...HOLLY CRAP. All this churn and frustration I expect buckets of finger pointing and laughter.....

I took the motors out of the XR axles and just put them in...when I got the axles from Delbert he included the pinions....I thought...look at that, he included pinions in the deal! Never even occurred to me they would be different.

I located the pinions and tried them....like night and day...still noisy at a very slow start up but smooth out nice as you pick up speed. After some playing around that is...the front is harder to get right, probably because it's a 12t

 

[Postclanker]

Sorry youre having issues. Sounds like its just with the gear mesh or is it with the gears also?

If there is one thing that can frustrate a Berg "newbie" more than anything, its the gears.

While it is frustrating to deal with gears on a Berg at first, the really great news is that all that needs to be done 99.9% of the time is to just go out and run the car for a couple of packs and let the gears mesh with each other. This can be the hardest thing for some people to understand because they want the gears to be super loosey goosey and spin like an AX10 axle but that is just not how Berg gears work (luckily). Berg gears are tight in the beginning (I have had plenty of stock cases that wont even turn when new) and this is a great thing because its what makes the Berg so tough, they have great gears and great gear mesh.

If its simply the mesh of the motor and 2nd gear, have you tried listening to the mesh? If I understand right, you have driven the car and it sounds off? If so, it sounds like you have a good ear so you should be able to do it the way I suggest....

If you have not yet, drill a hole for the upper motor screw. Then loosen the motor just enough to move the motor (it should be tight and a bit hard to move the motor). With the motor being able to move, spin the wheels. Does it sound good? No? Move the motor back or forward and spin the wheels again. Do this until it does sound good. You could even have a friend help you and use the throttle on the radio while moving the motor and you can really hear the gear mesh pitch change sound then.

If youre using a smaller pinion like a 12 or 13, try a 14. Using smaller pinions make it harder to get good mesh.

I hope that helps. I know how frustrating things can be while learning and this hobby is no exception as there is a lot to learn and understand before being able to drive a car like this.

Let me know if there is anything else I can do to help.

Thanks for chiming in Eric...lots of good stuff I never knew in just a brief post. Like my gears being tight in the front axle...turns out that's good, and I wanted to mess with that to get them to loosen up....glad you stopped me :mrgreen: although the thought of self gear mesh is a bit hard to swallow. I know they can loosen up over time.

I have not driven this yet...just listening to it on the bench, and it wouldn't take an educated ear to tell mine was off...it was very bad. But if you read the post before this one you know why that was.

Still very hard to adjust and get just right...my front gears smooth right out at a higher rpm, while they still sound rough as hell at immediate start up. I can almost live with that, but will mess with it more later.

Lots of good posts today "thumbsup""thumbsup"

 

[winnerone23]

Here ya go Greg..

[emoji57] [emoji118] [emoji12] [emoji117] [emoji23]
[emoji115] [emoji28] [emoji121] [emoji3] [emoji116]
[emoji85] [emoji86] [emoji87]


Just so you have your finger pointing and laughter...

Glad it was a simple fix. [emoji106] [emoji41]

 

[Curcal]

Yeah no big deal we all make mistakes.

Let me know if you need hep with doing the cap mod on these big bores. Its super easy. Just takes some time to get done.

 

[winnerone23]

Yeah no big deal we all make mistakes.

100% agree!

I already told Greg: I didn't know when I switched.
Christian had to fill me in. Lol