cmbscx10
I wanna be Dave
As i know it too. If you they want my AR that's fine. I have a Mega Lower but 85% of the $$ cost is on the BC, stock and upper so have at it.
Jato, There has to be a glitch in their system. If not, go elsewhere.
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Gun and knife picture thread!
- Thread starter chip cross
- Start date
As i know it too. If you they want my AR that's fine. I have a Mega Lower but 85% of the $$ cost is on the BC, stock and upper so have at it.
Jato, There has to be a glitch in their system. If not, go elsewhere.
hpiguy
Rock Crawler
Thanks for the heads up. Id be all over that if it weren't for those pesky hi cap mags. FU California.
Oh hell, I didn't realize you couldn't have actual mags there too. FFS, before long you'll only be allowed slingshots out there, but no high capacity stuff, one ball bearing at a time please. Also;
WARNING: This slingshot contains materials known to the state of Commifornia to cause cancer. :lmao:
stevejr
Rock Stacker
That Palmetto deal is how I got my Sparc AR. For those that can't jump on it now those sales on Vortex/Magpul mags pop up at least once a month with PSA. In fact the Sparc/Pmag deal when I got mine was $199.99 and free shipping. And in case you care for some reason they are Gen 2 pmags not Gen 3 ones.
In other words don't worry about missing it because you can get the same deal in a few weeks. They should be doing the Federal loose 193 and Pmag deal soon as well. That's another staple of theirs.
If you haven't ordered from Palmetto before just know that you need to be patient. They ship slow sometimes. You 100% will get your stuff it just may take a week or so.
In other words don't worry about missing it because you can get the same deal in a few weeks. They should be doing the Federal loose 193 and Pmag deal soon as well. That's another staple of theirs.
If you haven't ordered from Palmetto before just know that you need to be patient. They ship slow sometimes. You 100% will get your stuff it just may take a week or so.
There was, indeed, a glitch in their system. I emailed them on the 4th and they got back to me same day. The apologized and said the same message was sent to other customers in error and they were going to ship out my order today.
You can't keep an AR made from an 85% lower if they ban them so that is a concern you should have!
On a side note my Vortex Venom went out of stock before they sent mine so now it's on a 2-3 week back order according to the mail I got. Ugh! If they didn't give it to me for such a cheap price I'd be going elsewhere.
For those of you that have built an AR-15 what tools should I get. I did order a brass and nylon hammer and some punches because I don't have anything like that, but is there anything else I should have?
I'm thinking about getting a vice block although I'm not sure I'll need one.
I'm thinking about getting a vice block although I'm not sure I'll need one.
hpiguy
Rock Crawler
Mag well block is handy for holding the rifle still while you work on it, mount optics, cleaning etc if you don't have a gun caddy or something similar. Truthfully, I use the gun caddy way more than the mag vise block though. Don't need upper vise blocks if you never plan to change out a barrel or handguard. You'll need roll pin punches, and not standard so you don't deform the roll pins. An armorers lower receiver block is handy to have. And this is the best damned trick I've ever learned if you're assembling your own lower RX. And if you are building up your own lower, buy some extra of those tiny pins and springs, you'll thank me later. :mrgreen:
https://www.ar15.com/forums/ar-15/H...n_using_a__1_clevis_pin___56K_death/4-362116/
https://www.ar15.com/forums/ar-15/H...n_using_a__1_clevis_pin___56K_death/4-362116/
I don't have a gun caddy. Which one are you using?
Oh and I will have to install the barrel on my Aero M4E1 upper at some point. Unless I pay to have somebody do it.
hpiguy
Rock Crawler
I have the Tipton gun caddy that I bought about a week ago. Really happy with it for the money, makes cleaning and general maintenance easier IMO. And the ears remove and lock into place for portability. Roughly $25 or so.
If you're installing the barrel, might as well get a full vise block set. You'll need a barrel nut wrench that matches whatever handguard you opt for.
Also, get a good castle nut wrench too.
If you lived closer, you could just borrow all that shit from me. "thumbsup"
I saw that caddy since it was on sale on Gun.Deals (everybody knows that site, right? If not stay away because it will tempt you into spending LOTS of money!). Looks nice, but wouldn't really hold the upper or lower for assembly, right?
Have you tried using it as a shooting rest yet?
I got the Magpul tool because I've heard nightmares about bad castle nut wrenches. And I've dealt with cheap spanner wrenches in the past.
Yeah you're a little too far for a quick ride, but I appreciate the offer! "thumbsup"
hpiguy
Rock Crawler
Yep well aware of gun deals, and all the money those bastids have cost me. :lmao:
It's not made to hold it firmly for assembly, or for a shooting rest so I don't think it would be worth a damn for either. It's just for basic stuff like cleaning, mounting optics, etc. Used mine a little while ago to mount up a bipod and it made the job a lot easier than trying to hold a rifle still while getting the clamp aligned on the swivel stud. Think of it as one of those third hand things for soldering, but for guns.
Mag vise block and upper receiver vise blocks are what you'll need for assembly, along with a decent torque wrench.
I have two different castle nut wrenches, neither was over $20 and both have been fine. Just gotta check those reviews.
I prefer to shoot off bags or a bipod, or a makeshift rest since that simulates what I'd be doing in real world shooting whether at game or steel/paper. You can mount one in a precision vise or a lead sled for checking accuracy with the shooter mostly out of the equation, but that's about all they're useful for to me personally. And they're not cheap if you buy a good one. Just my opinion and nothing more, everyone has different needs. "thumbsup"
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Yeah the sleds aren't cheap and they take up a lot of space to store.
Oh and as far as punches go - brass or steel? I have my opinion, but I'd like to hear yours.
hpiguy
Rock Crawler
I have and use both types of punches for different needs. If it's something I know isn't hard to get out, I'll use brass. If I know it's gonna be a bitch, or starts being one when using brass, I'll go to the steel punch provided whatever I'm hitting isn't going to be damaged by the steel punch, i.e. the material on whatever I'm smacking should be harder than the punch.
But on the AR, you'll need roll pin specific punches, and I've only seen those in steel. The set I have came from Amazon, I think they were $18 or so, and they've assembled about a half dozen ARs with zero issues.
But on the AR, you'll need roll pin specific punches, and I've only seen those in steel. The set I have came from Amazon, I think they were $18 or so, and they've assembled about a half dozen ARs with zero issues.
I was thinking the same, but roll-pins aren't exactly soft and they are cheap and easy to replace so I went with a steel AR punch set from Brownells. It includes roll-pin punches. I haven't thought of any reason I'd necessarily need brass punches at this point in time, but if there ever comes a time I can always add them to my collection.
hpiguy
Rock Crawler
Roll pins are structurally strong so long as you use the proper tool. What happens with a normal punch is that it folds the thin end in and then it's useless. I generally use the brass punches to drive out trigger and hammer pins, and the disassembly pins on my handguns, mainly Glocks. I bought a combo punch set with both steel and brass probably 25 years ago, and other than snapping the smallest brass punch, I still have them in the handy container they came in. "thumbsup"
I hate roll-pins, but they are cheap and effective and I haven't invented a better solution. :lmao:
Since I'm still relatively new to guns I'm building my gun toolbox as I go.
hpiguy
Rock Crawler
I don't really hate them, just wasn't familiar with them when I got my first AR which was my first dealings with them. They're different for sure, but I'm sure there's a reason they're used. I'm assuming they lock in better than a friction fit with a normal pin.
Hell I've been buying guns legally 25 years, and I'm still buying tools to tinker with them. All part of it though.
At least the tools usually aren't that expensive compared to all the other shit we buy for shooting hobbies. You priced a decent spotting scope lately? I don't mean high end, just decent. If you have no need for one, and don't feel like you need to find out what a stroke feels like, just don't bother. :lmao:
I don't remember why I learned to hate roll-pins, but it wasn't on guns. I'm trying to think and I can't remember how or why they terrorized me. There goes that "awesome" memory of mine again... :lmao:
Optics are ridiculous. We touched on it a little bit above in terms of red dots, but scopes are even worse. Is there really a different between a $300 scope and a $1,500 one? I get you have more clarity with better glass, but still...
Unfortunately, or luckily, depending on if you look at it from the fun perspective or money perspective my range only goes out to 100 yards. There aren't any 500 or 1,000 yard ranges around here that I'm aware. And we aren't even that built up...yet...
hpiguy
Rock Crawler
Yep, optics get expensive quickly. For 100yds, which is all I have here locally, most things will do just fine. And I too have some cheapo stuff on some of my guns that are just fun guns that I don't take seriously. But, once distance increases combined with other factors (low light, weather, mirage, etc) then any flaws in the glass, coatings, etc start showing up. I don't enjoy paying for higher end optics, but having had photography as a hobby I'm well aware of the time, effort, complexity, and cost it takes to build complicated optics that also must survive heavy recoil and sometimes under harsh conditions so they need to be 100% weatherproof also. The mechanical part needs to be solid too, and have the ability to pass a tracking test and return where you started without fail. This is the shit I've been researching and losing sleep over for the past two months. LOL All that being said, good glass is nice to have not matter what. If I was made of money, I'd have ordered a Schmidt and Bender ultra short 3-20. But that shit ain't happenin' on my budget. Luckily, there are optics that are just a tick behind the German stuff these days for a fraction of the cost.
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I just looked up that scope - nearly $4,000! :shock: No thanks. If I had that kind of money I'd have a 1,000 yard range of my own and a Barrett 50 cal! :mrgreen:
hpiguy
Rock Crawler
You haven't priced a .50BMG recently either, have you. :lmao: Roughly $10k now average price. :shock: There was a deal the other day for $8k. I wish I had bought one years ago when they were somewhat cheap. I could trade it for that midlife sports car I've been wanting now.
