OSRC
I wanna be Dave
Running my OG SCX10 with 4.19's. Goes very well. With the smaller pumpkins on the 2, should do great.
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SVT's Budget Honcho Build Off Entry
- Thread starter svt923
- Start date
I think the 4.19s look a little too small for the massive front wheel wells, but they don't look too bad.
Which 4.19 tires are those?
Which 4.19 tires are those?
calcagno45
RCC Addict
My sentiment as well.
patrickcogdill
Newbie
They look too small as is, but could you lower the body to get the right look? Maybe limit the shocks internally?? I think it could look good with some work. Would also lower you COG too.
Sent from my XT1575 using Tapatalk
Sent from my XT1575 using Tapatalk
StomperCrawler
RCC Addict
Would fenders help the front to cradle the tires more?
Droop that sucker. Then those tiny tires will be just fine. If you don't want to run an actual droop setup, pick up these from James:
https://www.shapeways.com/product/26PZ7PW6V/ah10012-lowered-spring-collar?optionId=64993015
https://www.shapeways.com/product/26PZ7PW6V/ah10012-lowered-spring-collar?optionId=64993015
:lmao:
I never thought I'd see the day where we'd see lowering parts on scale crawlers.
calcagno45
RCC Addict
This is a cosmetic change offered from Knight, but droop has been around since forever.
Traxxas Big Bores with mini springs inside and Losi springs on the outside. It's all detailed in the thread I believe.
svt923
I wanna be Dave
You must be the envy of the whole row of urinals.
I'm more concerned with the looks because I'm incredibly shallow.
Much time was spent staring at the truck while processing the same thought.
The tires are RC4WD 4.19 Baja MTZs.
Normally I would have no problem swapping out tires if I end up not liking them but the whole budget build thing makes you stick with the tires you choose. Its not like marriage where you get 5-6 shots to get it right.
Matching thought bros! High five!
The body is as low as it is going to get since the cage is resting on the frame rails. As for lowering the shocks....
Those fenders have disfigured so many trucks, they should be brought to the Hauge for crimes against humanity.
One of the first scale trucks I built back in 2008ish was a New Bright JK with full droop, which was the cool thing to do at the time. I hated the way it bounced and hopped along because of the complete lack of dampened uptravel. No preload on the stock shocks gives a pretty good mix of up and down travel at ride height but those Knight Customs spring cups are inspiring some ideas.
It feels good to get together to discuss tires, we really should do it more often. I would like to thank everyone for their contributions and invite you all to be part of the SVT Tiny Truck Advisory Council (STTAC). There will be quarterly meetings with light refreshments and maybe t-shirts; very exclusive stuff.
svt923
I wanna be Dave
Donuts for the meetings, an annual banquet at the palatial SVT compound, hats, a special handshake used to confirm membership with other upon meeting.
Final offer.
svt923
I wanna be Dave
Hello.
Is it me you're looking for?
I can see it in your eyes.
I can see it in your smile.
Here I am with either a Lionel Richie top 10 list or some Honcho stuff to report.
Spoiler alert: Endless Love is my #1, agree or be wrong.
While you try come up with some futile argument for Dancing on the Ceiling, enjoy these pictures:
Just give up, I'm right. Accept it.
Anyway, one important discovery from some driving time in the typical East Coast rock, dirt, moss, leaves type trail. The Wildpeak tires, despite the large lug spacing, are terrible in loose terrain. I don't mean "terrible" like they get no traction, I mean "terrible" as they are the most inconsistent tire I have ever used.
For example, this climb:
Half the time, the Honcho would walk right up it and not come close to making it up the other half. It seemed like a total crap shoot if the tire would get traction on anything. There is a great advantage in consistency and tires that have total unpredictability when it comes to traction make for a very frustrating experience.
Other than some pretty pictures, the point of this post is to direct attention back towards this build. My ego needs the constant validation of strangers on the internet in order to function. Like and comment!
God, that was painful to even write satirically. How do people actually live that way?
Many boxes are set to be delivered this week and I did test out a subtle mod that shall be covered in the next stage.
Adieu.
Is it me you're looking for?
I can see it in your eyes.
I can see it in your smile.
Here I am with either a Lionel Richie top 10 list or some Honcho stuff to report.
Spoiler alert: Endless Love is my #1, agree or be wrong.
While you try come up with some futile argument for Dancing on the Ceiling, enjoy these pictures:
Just give up, I'm right. Accept it.
Anyway, one important discovery from some driving time in the typical East Coast rock, dirt, moss, leaves type trail. The Wildpeak tires, despite the large lug spacing, are terrible in loose terrain. I don't mean "terrible" like they get no traction, I mean "terrible" as they are the most inconsistent tire I have ever used.
For example, this climb:
Half the time, the Honcho would walk right up it and not come close to making it up the other half. It seemed like a total crap shoot if the tire would get traction on anything. There is a great advantage in consistency and tires that have total unpredictability when it comes to traction make for a very frustrating experience.
Other than some pretty pictures, the point of this post is to direct attention back towards this build. My ego needs the constant validation of strangers on the internet in order to function. Like and comment!
God, that was painful to even write satirically. How do people actually live that way?
Many boxes are set to be delivered this week and I did test out a subtle mod that shall be covered in the next stage.
Adieu.
2mtech
RCC Addict
I always suspected you were actually a shallow, attention seeking social media robot down deep :lmao:
I know, how truly gratuitous to excerpt only the most banal, pointless drivel of a sentence from that otherwise entertaining and informative update post. I may or may not be affiliated with Fox news...
That spot looks strangely familiar...to date the only tire I've found to be reliably predictable (predictably reliable?) on our wonderful moss draped rock is Hyrax.
Thanks for the subtle mod tease.
lonleycreeper
I wanna be Dave
Good news everyone!
I have been watching a lot of Futurama reruns lately, can you tell?
Anyway, we have reached a very special portion of this build thread.
I need input from you, the audience, for the next stage of this fantastic build.
That's right. You, the common reader, get to tell me, the internet RC big shot, your thoughts!
We all know what a Honcho looks like but here is a refresher:
The question I pose to the gaggle of readers:
4.19 inch tires: Too small or just right?
Reaction!
With a lower ride height they are perfect!
I lowered the body two holes, and pulled all preload out of the shocks, after swapping springs front to rear...
4.3" tsl's
Og rock beasts
4.19 Wrangler Mtr's
I have a similar stash of tires, mounted on wheels too.
How about some old school roc lox?
I have a set of 4...
svt923
I wanna be Dave
Greetings and welcome to this special Friday edition of SVT's Honcho budget build extravaganza!
Yaaaaaaaaaay!
Yes, I see you are excited and yes, this is clearly better than whatever you are supposed to be doing right now but control yourself. Unrestrained enthusiasm and discretely perusing the internet don't exactly go hand in hand. So grab a chair and some coffee (or scotch, I don't judge) and gather round.
Before anyone starts in on the "what is taking so long for these updates?" garbage, know that I have been busy working to bring you a better build thread experience. A whole scale garage complete with lighting has been build to provide a pleasant backdrop for your visual intake.
Also, I switched from cell phone pictures to a fancy ass Sony micro 4/3 camera for higher quality pictures. What have you done for me lately? That's what I thought. So shut your face and be grateful.
But before we go forward, we must consider the past. Not to respect our ancestors, heritage, or any of that other crap, just to see how much cash we have to blow this time around.
Phase #4 - $106.01 + $50 = $156.01
Man, I have been cheap up to this point (that will change, don't worry).
This week is all about getting the wheels turning.......in the right direction.
See what I did there?
Lucky for anyone doing a budget build these days, there is a huge amount of low cost, high performance servos that are actually pretty good. Seeing how the stock Tactic servo is pretty bad, something that is pretty good would be a huge upgrade.
My choice for the task:
This is a JX CLS-12V7346. It has a stylish and durable aluminum case, steel gears, and makes 530 oz of torque at 11.1V.
Wait, 11.1V? What?
That's right, this bad boy runs directly off a 3S battery.
If you didn't believe me, then maybe the gigantic laser etching will convince you.
I'm have been a big fan of 3S capable servos since installing a Holmes SHV500 in my TRX4 for the power and simplicity. Just remember, you always need a BEC except when you don't need a BEC so use a BEC when you need a BEC but don't use a BEC when you don't have to use a BEC. Got it?
Unfortunately, a $120 servo doesn't fit the whole "budget" theme of this build. I stumbled across these JX servos a while back and ordered one. Then I waited and waited and waited for Gearbest to get off their collective asses and send the servo to me. A month later, they put my servo in a box then it showed up in my mailbox 2 weeks after that. So here we are in the beginning of May and I am ready to install the servo that was ordered in March.
But wait, there's more!
In case you were wondering, the 46kg rating is at 14V. That works out to about 630 oz of torque. Even if the real torque is only 3/4 of that rating, it is still hella strong.
How much would you pay for all this servo awesomeness? $100? $90? $75? $60? Find out the low, low price after this:
For those not familiar with 3S capable servos, they use separate leads for power and signal.
Some quick soldering and I had a power tap installed. JX doesn't include a JST pigtail like Holmes does with their servo but I had one laying around. You could always solder the servo power leads straight to the battery wires but I like connectors here.
A few screws and the old servo was gone.
Normally you wouldn't want to meet whoever is replacing you at your job but I don't really care what the stock servo thinks anyway.
Like the new servo horn? More on that in a minute.
Has it been a minute?
OK, I'll tell you.
So I was planning on using this servo horn from Top Hobby on ebay. They are low profile and not too bulky like a lot of clamping servo horns. Did I mention they are $6 shipped from the US?
If you think they look familiar, they do.
But alas, the horn proved to be too low profile as it hit the chassis before coming close to full lock.
Back to the drawing board.
So I borrowed a Vanquish servo horn from another truck for some testing. It clears the chassis but hits the panharrd mount quite a bit before full lock. So I trimmed a little off the panhard mount.
Better but not good enough, the Vanquish horn is just too damn bulky.
So I grabbed one of these Protek horns.
Again, hits the chassis like the Top Hobby horn. Why is this so f*$&#!ng complicated!
Further review shows the Protek arm is just barely hitting the chassis, I may be able to work with this.
I trimmed about 1mm off the height off the height of the servo mounts to drop the servo.
Everything was mounted back up.
And success!
Between the Protek horn's profile, the trimmed panhard mount, and the lowered servo, everything fits as it should and full steering is achieved. Well, technically there is more available steering but the tires will touch the links at full lock so I don't really need to chase it further.
Speaking of lowering the steering servo, I now have a convenient transition to the next topic. Thanks, me!
As you may recall from our tire discussion (or you may not, in which case you may be confused by the following), there was talk about lowering the Honcho.
Adjusting the preload collars all the way up wasn't enough, the Knight Customs spring cups were intriguing, but then I was inspired. Just mount the shocks on the same screw as the links.
All it takes is longer screws (M3x25) and 2 minutes to lower the truck significantly. How much? I don't know, I forgot to measure. 8 mm, maybe? I'll go with 8 mm, it sounds close enough.
Where did this incredibly simple but brilliant bit of information come from?
Me.
I did this on my GCM Skeleton when I installed SCXII axles to get the ride height down. I'm even more wonderful than I though I was.
As you can see, much lower.
More lower = more stabler = more gooder.
It will look better with smaller tires too.
Did I just tease our next installment? :shock:
I'll gloss over that and get to our tally for this stage.
JX 12V servo - $53
Protek 25T servo horn - $11
Stage #4 total = $64
Well done me, well done.
What do we have to work with next week?
$106.01 + ($50-$64) = $92.01
I'm incredibly qualified to perform these calculations. Would you believe I have a master's degree in accounting? There is a fancy-ass piece of paper at my house to prove it.
I would say I hope you enjoyed this installment but I know you did. Stick around for the next amazing installment.
Literally, stay seated at your computer waiting, furiously pushing F5 in hope of the next post being one refresh away. It is the least you can do.
Yaaaaaaaaaay!
Yes, I see you are excited and yes, this is clearly better than whatever you are supposed to be doing right now but control yourself. Unrestrained enthusiasm and discretely perusing the internet don't exactly go hand in hand. So grab a chair and some coffee (or scotch, I don't judge) and gather round.
Before anyone starts in on the "what is taking so long for these updates?" garbage, know that I have been busy working to bring you a better build thread experience. A whole scale garage complete with lighting has been build to provide a pleasant backdrop for your visual intake.
Also, I switched from cell phone pictures to a fancy ass Sony micro 4/3 camera for higher quality pictures. What have you done for me lately? That's what I thought. So shut your face and be grateful.
But before we go forward, we must consider the past. Not to respect our ancestors, heritage, or any of that other crap, just to see how much cash we have to blow this time around.
Phase #4 - $106.01 + $50 = $156.01
Man, I have been cheap up to this point (that will change, don't worry).
This week is all about getting the wheels turning.......in the right direction.
See what I did there?
Lucky for anyone doing a budget build these days, there is a huge amount of low cost, high performance servos that are actually pretty good. Seeing how the stock Tactic servo is pretty bad, something that is pretty good would be a huge upgrade.
My choice for the task:
This is a JX CLS-12V7346. It has a stylish and durable aluminum case, steel gears, and makes 530 oz of torque at 11.1V.
Wait, 11.1V? What?
That's right, this bad boy runs directly off a 3S battery.
If you didn't believe me, then maybe the gigantic laser etching will convince you.
I'm have been a big fan of 3S capable servos since installing a Holmes SHV500 in my TRX4 for the power and simplicity. Just remember, you always need a BEC except when you don't need a BEC so use a BEC when you need a BEC but don't use a BEC when you don't have to use a BEC. Got it?
Unfortunately, a $120 servo doesn't fit the whole "budget" theme of this build. I stumbled across these JX servos a while back and ordered one. Then I waited and waited and waited for Gearbest to get off their collective asses and send the servo to me. A month later, they put my servo in a box then it showed up in my mailbox 2 weeks after that. So here we are in the beginning of May and I am ready to install the servo that was ordered in March.
But wait, there's more!
In case you were wondering, the 46kg rating is at 14V. That works out to about 630 oz of torque. Even if the real torque is only 3/4 of that rating, it is still hella strong.
How much would you pay for all this servo awesomeness? $100? $90? $75? $60? Find out the low, low price after this:
For those not familiar with 3S capable servos, they use separate leads for power and signal.
Some quick soldering and I had a power tap installed. JX doesn't include a JST pigtail like Holmes does with their servo but I had one laying around. You could always solder the servo power leads straight to the battery wires but I like connectors here.
A few screws and the old servo was gone.
Normally you wouldn't want to meet whoever is replacing you at your job but I don't really care what the stock servo thinks anyway.
Like the new servo horn? More on that in a minute.
Has it been a minute?
OK, I'll tell you.
So I was planning on using this servo horn from Top Hobby on ebay. They are low profile and not too bulky like a lot of clamping servo horns. Did I mention they are $6 shipped from the US?
If you think they look familiar, they do.
But alas, the horn proved to be too low profile as it hit the chassis before coming close to full lock.
Back to the drawing board.
So I borrowed a Vanquish servo horn from another truck for some testing. It clears the chassis but hits the panharrd mount quite a bit before full lock. So I trimmed a little off the panhard mount.
Better but not good enough, the Vanquish horn is just too damn bulky.
So I grabbed one of these Protek horns.
Again, hits the chassis like the Top Hobby horn. Why is this so f*$&#!ng complicated!
Further review shows the Protek arm is just barely hitting the chassis, I may be able to work with this.
I trimmed about 1mm off the height off the height of the servo mounts to drop the servo.
Everything was mounted back up.
And success!
Between the Protek horn's profile, the trimmed panhard mount, and the lowered servo, everything fits as it should and full steering is achieved. Well, technically there is more available steering but the tires will touch the links at full lock so I don't really need to chase it further.
Speaking of lowering the steering servo, I now have a convenient transition to the next topic. Thanks, me!
As you may recall from our tire discussion (or you may not, in which case you may be confused by the following), there was talk about lowering the Honcho.
Adjusting the preload collars all the way up wasn't enough, the Knight Customs spring cups were intriguing, but then I was inspired. Just mount the shocks on the same screw as the links.
All it takes is longer screws (M3x25) and 2 minutes to lower the truck significantly. How much? I don't know, I forgot to measure. 8 mm, maybe? I'll go with 8 mm, it sounds close enough.
Where did this incredibly simple but brilliant bit of information come from?
Me.
I did this on my GCM Skeleton when I installed SCXII axles to get the ride height down. I'm even more wonderful than I though I was.
As you can see, much lower.
More lower = more stabler = more gooder.
It will look better with smaller tires too.
Did I just tease our next installment? :shock:
I'll gloss over that and get to our tally for this stage.
JX 12V servo - $53
Protek 25T servo horn - $11
Stage #4 total = $64
Well done me, well done.
What do we have to work with next week?
$106.01 + ($50-$64) = $92.01
I'm incredibly qualified to perform these calculations. Would you believe I have a master's degree in accounting? There is a fancy-ass piece of paper at my house to prove it.
I would say I hope you enjoyed this installment but I know you did. Stick around for the next amazing installment.
Literally, stay seated at your computer waiting, furiously pushing F5 in hope of the next post being one refresh away. It is the least you can do.
calcagno45
RCC Addict
Nice tiny garage, looks mediocre. Needs a scale pin up calendar.
I like the lowered stance. Some tiny tires should fit better now.
I like the lowered stance. Some tiny tires should fit better now.
svt923
I wanna be Dave
It is 2018, we all have calendars and porn on our phones. My garage reflects modern times.
