SVT's Budget Honcho Build Off Entry

[GA Dawg]

Lots more planned, especially if the USPS stops losing my packages.

You aren't waiting on the flip your lid kit too are you?

 

[svt923]

You aren't waiting on the flip your lid kit too are you?

I can neither confirm or deny at this point at the risk of appearing to copy certain motorcycle brand-named members of this competition.

There is some positive news. My order, which was allegedly out for delivery on Monday, showed up 3 days later in a distribution center 2 hours away from me. I really want to commend those masters of logistics for getting a box from a post office 2 miles from the delivery destination to a distribution center 75 miles away before sending it back to said post office prior to eventual delivery.

I guess I should be happy they found it but firing off super fresh hot takes on the postal service seems more on brand for me. Maybe next time I'll unleash a few doozies on airplane food and parking on driveways.

 

[GA Dawg]

Mine left a distribution center in Indiana and hasn't been seen since.

 

[Traulus]

Well thats a triple budget build to follow after Harley and SBG

 

[WHITE-TRASH]

They do operate at 60 degrees, that measurement was taken at the point where the tab corners touch. Axial universals are good for about the same amount.

You are correct they can turn much more than that but not all the way through the revolution. They lock up pretty harshly past 60 degrees.

Take them apart and clearance then a bit here & there and you end up with 70* of reliability.



Some friends and I were just talking about doing this exact thing. I don't follow harley so I didn't know this was going on. Guess we'll have to get on the ball!

 

[svt923]

Mine left a distribution center in Indiana and hasn't been seen since.

Wow, they didn't even try for you.

Well thats a triple budget build to follow after Harley and SBG

Harley will win on views and Matt will win on scale but no one will come close to me on simultaneous self deprecation and self aggrandizing or superfluous use of ostentatious vocabulary.

Take them apart and clearance then a bit here & there and you end up with 70* of reliability.

Some friends and I were just talking about doing this exact thing. I don't follow harley so I didn't know this was going on. Guess we'll have to get on the ball!

Aww hell, the build off is officially next level if White Trash wants in.

The universals have the option to be clearanced but that can wait. More steering angle is definitely going to require a new tierod and possibly new knuckles to get close to 70*.

 

[WHITE-TRASH]

Aww hell, the build off is officially next level if White Trash wants in.

The universals have the option to be clearanced but that can wait. More steering angle is definitely going to require a new tierod and possibly new knuckles to get close to 70*.

Make no mistake, I will be eliminating anything that can be construed as a scale point along the way. Me no scale, so yea. :lol:

I have been eyeballing a class 2 rig with 0 scale points based on pure performance parts. I've always liked the honcho but hated the abysmal axles. Well now axial has fixed it so why not eh?

Dlux brass knuckles are a nice fit on ar44's and they allow 70* whenever you wanna step up. :mrgreen:

 

[svt923]

Did someone ask for phase #2?

Of course you did, everyone loves this thread. Do you see my competition? It's hard to not be lapping the field when it mostly consists of garbage like "What's the best tire?", "Can I fit 200mm King shocks?", and "FLEXXX!!!!". Crap, all pure, unadulterated crap.

What was I talking about? Right, my clearly better Honcho build moving on to the next phase.

If you remember, we start off phase #2 with a budget of $58. Then I spend said money, put stuff on truck, and call it a day.

Need more info, huh? OK.

This is a part that I have wanted for a really long time and definitely way before a certain other budget build video was posted.

Enter the flip your lid kit from DCW/Brazin RC (which arrived at my house after a unplanned, 4 day USPS vacation). This is one of those products that is so brilliant in it's simplicity you wonder why Axial hasn't stolen it for themselves. If you haven't figured out what it does by now, I'm not explaining it. We are moving on.

Installation is super easy: remove 2 screws from your rear cage to pull off these lower bars, slip the mounts over the bars, and reinstall screws. You may have to clean the holes out with a drill bit to free up the movement (I did). Then install the mounts onto the rear most holes in the chassis. You can use just 2 screws but I drilled out the front hole and used 2 extra M2.5 screws for piece of mind.

While I was at it, the old-style light holder was installed to give the hinge a little more clearance.

When I flipped the lid, I almost flipped my lid because flipping lids is so flippin' amazing.

That was only part 1 of phase #2: there is more!

Something noticeable is missing from the side of the truck when it comes out of the box. Any guesses?

The answer is sliders. Try to keep up.

A simple and cheap set of sliders is the ones from the SCXII kit. They fit the body pretty well but require drilling some new mounting holes.

See? Not bad and fits in well with the whole "budget build" thing.

You know I'm not doing that, right?

Budget builds don't work without a good bit of DIY so its time to get making.

Me and some metal spent a good bit of quality time with a dremel, bench grinder, and a torch. After some cutting, grinding, and hack brazing, I ended up with this:

Well, look at that.

The big question is "can you do that again?" I have no idea.

Guess I could.

Some mounting holes were drilled then came the moment of truth.

Holy chit, they actually fit. I mean, of course they fit. I totally knew they would. :roll:

Now that is a proper slider.

High and tight, just like many other good things in life should be. Good thing no one on RCC makes stuff anymore because I'm looking mighty impressive right now. These will be getting a coat of black paint to match the rear cage but mostly to hide my sketchy looking brazing job.

Let's get a check of the cash register for stage #2:

Flip your lid kit - $15
1/4 in stainless steel tubing - $10
Sheet of (I forgot what thickness) steel - $5

Total stage #2 - $30

Stage #3 budget = ($58-$30)+$50 = $78

See, I told you DIY stuff pays off. Now I have a bunch of money for stage #3. I have a pretty good idea of what to do next but you can marinade on that for a while. Feel free to start a pool for your guesses. I won't discourage gambling on this thread and I will even give you the answer in exchange for a portion of the pool money.

Like I said, how can other threads compete with that?

Until next time, my friends.

 

[Sjonnie82]

No updates?

 

[svt923]

No updates?

Didn't I say I was highly unreliable?

Actually, we bought a new house and will be moving in about a week. I didn't get into it too much here because this is a budget build and spending several hundred thousand dollars to upgrade your RC space would blow my budget for the next 150ish years.

 

[PounceTheBear]

I'm honored to learn I am inspiring, being informative and entertaining is still a highly questionable claim. Either way, I should make it my new signature.

SVT923: Informative, Entertaining, Inspirational

That gave me chills.

Anyway, grab a Honcho and join in the fun. "thumbsup"

Who wants another free mod?

Great but you have to hear a story first.

Still interested?

OK.

A long time ago, I bought a 10.8V cordless Dremel because of convenience and portability. Now, it still works well enough but has the remarkable to die whenever I need it. Get a new battery right? Wrong! Get a new Dremel like any rational hobbyist. My wonderful mother got me a brand spanking new corded Dremel for Xmas. I now wield immense rotary tool power and what parent doesn't love when their kids enjoy their presents?

I went through all that to say I cut crap off my truck.

Choppy, choppy

Much better looking.

Look at all that clearance. Look at all that need for inner fenders. Good thing I have ideas occasionally.

Unfortunately, no amount of chopping will fix this:

I could land helicopters on that front overhang. I mean, they would be small helicopters but you get the idea. At least my truck looks better, that is what really matters.

Also, I found a very important use for one of the spare parts in the box.

It was warm here yesterday, I needed the breeze.

Boxes should be rolling in soon so the good stuff can get underway. Oh, and I guess I will drive the Honcho at some point as well.

What did you do to the bumper? I'm still trying to figure that out. Did you cut the brackets and then read drill the holes?

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G891A using Tapatalk

 

[Traulus]

You are absolutely mad )))

Keep up the good work bud.Things are looking impresive

 

[svt923]

What did you do to the bumper? I'm still trying to figure that out. Did you cut the brackets and then read drill the holes?

That would sound impressive if I did all that.

The outer bars that hold on the lower bumper plates were cut off. That was all.

You are absolutely mad )))

Keep up the good work bud.Things are looking impresive

I'll keep up the work, it will vary between awesome and terrible. I guess that averages out to good work. "thumbsup"

 

[lonleycreeper]

That would sound impressive if I did all that.



The outer bars that hold on the lower bumper plates were cut off. That was all.



I'll keep up the work, it will vary between awesome and terrible. I guess that averages out to good work. "thumbsup"[/QUOTE]


Nah, that averages out to "Meh"... at best.

Good is saved for those who drive their trucks, lol.

 

[svt923]

Good is saved for those who drive their trucks, lol.

Driving is for communists and hobos.

Spend hundreds of dollars for something that sits on a shelf like a real man.

 

[rc dreemer]

Hi, I am enjoying the red of this�� I was wondering if you could elaborate on this: "
1 shim on the gear side was all it needed, all play gone and proper gear mesh. 1 Traxxas axle shim was also placed on the outside of the pinion shaft". My 10.2 axles have play between the pinion & ring gear as well. Any assistance would be greatly appreciated

Thanks����

 

[svt923]

Hi, I am enjoying the red of this�� I was wondering if you could elaborate on this: "
1 shim on the gear side was all it needed, all play gone and proper gear mesh. 1 Traxxas axle shim was also placed on the outside of the pinion shaft". My 10.2 axles have play between the pinion & ring gear as well. Any assistance would be greatly appreciated

Thanks����

I always knew one day someone would want me to explain something further, I'm surprised it took this long.

So there were 2 things going on with the axle gears: first was the pinion had too much in and out play. This is a problem because if the pinion gets pushed in too much it starts making contact with the locker. The 5x7 shim (a very common RC shim size, tons of companies make them) goes on before the driveshaft and the pinion can no longer move in and out. Quick and easy.

There was also a good bit of side to side play in the locker/ring gear assembly. This is the more worrisome problem because the ring gear can move away from the pinion under load and lead to potential stripped gears. With the sintered ring gear of the Honcho, proper mesh is even more important because the metal isn't as strong as the machined gears of the other SCXII versions. 7mm shims are needed for this step, I used some from my hardware assortment but CRC makes a 7mm shim set (https://www.amainhobbies.com/crc-7mm-shim-set-20-cln4737/p53205). I put the shim on the gear side of the spool under the bearing, this tightens up the mesh between the ring and pinion gears. I like to shim my axle gears a tad on the tight side because they will break in and get smoother as they get run. Once the shim was installed, all side to side play was removed and the gears will maintain consistent mesh under load.

Of course gear shimming is always a case by case basis due to slight tolerance variations so what my truck needed may not be what your truck requires. That should give you a pretty good idea of what to look for when checking your axle mesh.

Elaborated enough?

My official title keeps getting longer.

SVT923: Informative, Entertaining, Inspirational, Elaborate

 

[calcagno45]

Great explanation on shimming the diffs.

Also, friendly reminder, you're 6 weeks behind...

 

[svt923]

Great explanation on shimming the diffs.

Also, friendly reminder, you're 6 weeks behind...

Another friendly reminder:

A stage will be a variable amount of time since I am highly unreliable and can't be boxed in to a schedule.

Weekly content is for those ship jumpers now driven by the YouTube subscription count, not the gritty underdogs striving to keep RCC the best source for quality information. To hell with views and likes, quality content is king here! Also, I'm clearly not above placating to my audience for eliciting some feelings of pre-Facebook nostalgia.

Many more stages for this build are already prepared but they are currently packed into boxes like the rest of my life. I could post 6 weeks worth of pictures of boxes if you would like.

 

[rc dreemer]

Svt,
Very elaborate explanation "thumbsup". my issue is the pinion gear moving in/out I will do your method and shim before the driveshaft install. Thanks again for the time and hard work....8)