Thanks![emoji106]
Yes sir! I’ll be at Feelin Frosty for sure. It’s a blast and a great way to end the season before the cold and the snow gets here!
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B-MOW goes PRO with the VS4-10
- Thread starter B-MOW71
- Start date
Thanks![emoji106]
Yes sir! I’ll be at Feelin Frosty for sure. It’s a blast and a great way to end the season before the cold and the snow gets here!
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bikepilot
Pebble Pounder
Cool!! Nephew and I went last year, our first event, and loved it!! great time! we'll be there this year too!! If I don't decide on a 1.9 soon i'll be takin the bomber. I think I had the only yeti there last year and it did well for a wide truck!!
Awesome! Glad you enjoyed it."thumbsup"
This will be my third year and it just gets better each year. I'm curious to see if or how it will change since it is at a different location this year.
We'll have to meet up and run the trails.
Here is a few sneak peek pics! Seems like that is the trend now with all the manufacturers, so figured I would try it![emoji23]
Really though, I was able to get a tiny bit done tonight on the Pro. I’m hoping to wrap the body up tomorrow night.
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Really though, I was able to get a tiny bit done tonight on the Pro. I’m hoping to wrap the body up tomorrow night.
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Topher Builds
I wanna be Dave
Very clean paint work! Love it BMow.
bikepilot
Pebble Pounder
Looks super!! The paint lines are clean!!!! That's something I have problems with!
And I like your color , paint scheme!! Classy!! Yep I agree we'll have to run some trails at the frosty run for sure!!! Great job brian!!!
brian
And I like your color , paint scheme!! Classy!! Yep I agree we'll have to run some trails at the frosty run for sure!!! Great job brian!!!brian
Looks super!! The paint lines are clean!!!! That's something I have problems with!
brian
Thanks guys!"thumbsup"
It stills amazes me how well the film seals on the outside of the body. I have never once had any bleeding on the outside using the film. I'm not sure when body manufacturers started using the film, but glad someone thought of it. Back in my early days of my racing days in the late 80's, the bodies did not have that film and it was a pain in the a$$ to paint bodies without getting over spray on the outside.
I got busy last night and wasn't able to finish up the body. Hoping to get it finished this weekend and take it out for it's first run.
Topher Builds
I wanna be Dave
What tape are ya using in your process?
I’ve been partial to the frog tape but I need to find something thinner that sticks well. May give tamiya another shot.
I’ve been partial to the frog tape but I need to find something thinner that sticks well. May give tamiya another shot.
I have used frog tape in the past and it has worked ok. The past three bodies that I have painted I have used 3M blue painters tape. The tape is thin and seals very well.
Here is a pic of it:
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Time to get the PRO build up-to-date! My plan today is to get everything up to now uploaded and posted.
So I will start out with pics of the servo and servo winch I chose. I went with a 3Brothers G13 steering servo. I have one in my TRX-4 and have had good luck with it so far. It is extremely fast and powerful. I'm using the VP 20mm servo horn because that is what VP recommends and it has worked out well on my Origin. (Nevermind the Dravtech shocks. This pic was taken before I replaced them with the stock Incision shocks.)
I chose the Reefs servo winch. This purchase happened out-of-the-blue when RPP posted that these were now in stock and available. It comes in a complete package that includes the CNC machined spool, silicone coated steel braided winch line & hook. I've been curious to see how well these winches work, so I will soon find out! I also decided not to use the steel line and went with the ScalerFab 300lbs. winch line.
I like that the winches have the winch controller built in and do not require and extra ESC to run them. Saves space on the chassis and relieves the headache of installing an ESC and programming it.
The CNC spool was too tall and hit the panhard bar, so I had to use a LockUp RC spool. I also had to shim up the winch servo a tad with a washer so the spool would clear. I get full compression with just a slight rub from the upper link on the axle only when the RH tire is fully compressed. It is slight and should not cause any problems.
And a view of the top with all the electronics installed and wires routed.
More updates coming soon...
So I will start out with pics of the servo and servo winch I chose. I went with a 3Brothers G13 steering servo. I have one in my TRX-4 and have had good luck with it so far. It is extremely fast and powerful. I'm using the VP 20mm servo horn because that is what VP recommends and it has worked out well on my Origin. (Nevermind the Dravtech shocks. This pic was taken before I replaced them with the stock Incision shocks.)
I chose the Reefs servo winch. This purchase happened out-of-the-blue when RPP posted that these were now in stock and available. It comes in a complete package that includes the CNC machined spool, silicone coated steel braided winch line & hook. I've been curious to see how well these winches work, so I will soon find out! I also decided not to use the steel line and went with the ScalerFab 300lbs. winch line.
I like that the winches have the winch controller built in and do not require and extra ESC to run them. Saves space on the chassis and relieves the headache of installing an ESC and programming it.
The CNC spool was too tall and hit the panhard bar, so I had to use a LockUp RC spool. I also had to shim up the winch servo a tad with a washer so the spool would clear. I get full compression with just a slight rub from the upper link on the axle only when the RH tire is fully compressed. It is slight and should not cause any problems.
And a view of the top with all the electronics installed and wires routed.
More updates coming soon...
Moving on to the body. I really struggled with coming up with a paint scheme on this one. I knew the colors that I wanted to use, but coming up with a design that I liked and wasn't beyond my ability, was just not happening! So I went with a scheme that I used on my Origin and just inverted the colors. It is simple, painless and I like it!
Taped off the windows, sunroof (Need to give credit to Matt from Scale Builders Guild for this idea!) and back half of body. I used Tamiya PS-62 Pure Orange for the front half and backed it with a coat of Tamiya PS-1 White.
Back half was sprayed with Tamiya PS-63 Bright Gun Metal backed with white.
The film on the outside was lightly and carefully cut to expose the hood, top, rear section and fender flares. It was sprayed with Tamiya PS-5 Black and backed with multiple coats of Tamiya PS-55 Flat clear to dull the black and help protect it from scratches.
Removed outer film and window tape and this is how it came out. I'm happy with the results! I'm glad bodies these days come with the outer film. It works out really well for painting on the outside of the body without using any tape. The film seals nicely and does not allow for any paint bleed.
Back in my early RC days, bodies did not have outside film and was a pain in the a$$ to keep the outside of the body free of overspray.
Stay tuned...
Taped off the windows, sunroof (Need to give credit to Matt from Scale Builders Guild for this idea!) and back half of body. I used Tamiya PS-62 Pure Orange for the front half and backed it with a coat of Tamiya PS-1 White.
Back half was sprayed with Tamiya PS-63 Bright Gun Metal backed with white.
The film on the outside was lightly and carefully cut to expose the hood, top, rear section and fender flares. It was sprayed with Tamiya PS-5 Black and backed with multiple coats of Tamiya PS-55 Flat clear to dull the black and help protect it from scratches.
Removed outer film and window tape and this is how it came out. I'm happy with the results! I'm glad bodies these days come with the outer film. It works out really well for painting on the outside of the body without using any tape. The film seals nicely and does not allow for any paint bleed.
Back in my early RC days, bodies did not have outside film and was a pain in the a$$ to keep the outside of the body free of overspray.
Stay tuned...
Now it's time to open bag H-1 that has the body parts such as the grill/radiator, light buckets and more.
I decided to go with the grill made by Scale Built that I bought on Shapeways. I wanted more of a "Scout" look on the PRO. It is made out of a black nylon plastic with a matte finish and has a fairly nice smooth finish to it.
Since this grill has nice big slots in it, I thought the radiator would look good painted silver. I used a silver Sharpie to coat it the best I could.
Here is a shot of the front end with the grill and radiator attached. I like how the silver rad looks behind the grill. It adds a little extra something! Oh and I also used the silver Sharpie to paint the front and rear light buckets. I don't have a light kit for it yet. If I don't make my own set of lights, I will probably either get the Powershift RC light kit or the LIT LED kit.
Side shot without decals!
Don't pay attention to the wheels. They are temporary and will be replaced with an awesome looking set of wheels that are in the mail and should be here this week.
Here is a shot of the rear bed area. I cut the overspray film on the body around the top edge and sprayed it black to match the interior. I wanted the black to flow from the front of the hood all the way back to the rear of the bed.
I was really impressed with how Codyboy's VS4-10 PRO turned out with the rear roll bar, so my plan is to make steel tube roll bar for the rear of mine. It will be my first time brazing in about 30 years, so it may take some time get the hang of it again.
More to come...
I decided to go with the grill made by Scale Built that I bought on Shapeways. I wanted more of a "Scout" look on the PRO. It is made out of a black nylon plastic with a matte finish and has a fairly nice smooth finish to it.
Since this grill has nice big slots in it, I thought the radiator would look good painted silver. I used a silver Sharpie to coat it the best I could.
Here is a shot of the front end with the grill and radiator attached. I like how the silver rad looks behind the grill. It adds a little extra something! Oh and I also used the silver Sharpie to paint the front and rear light buckets. I don't have a light kit for it yet. If I don't make my own set of lights, I will probably either get the Powershift RC light kit or the LIT LED kit.
Side shot without decals!
Don't pay attention to the wheels. They are temporary and will be replaced with an awesome looking set of wheels that are in the mail and should be here this week.
Here is a shot of the rear bed area. I cut the overspray film on the body around the top edge and sprayed it black to match the interior. I wanted the black to flow from the front of the hood all the way back to the rear of the bed.
I was really impressed with how Codyboy's VS4-10 PRO turned out with the rear roll bar, so my plan is to make steel tube roll bar for the rear of mine. It will be my first time brazing in about 30 years, so it may take some time get the hang of it again.
More to come...
Damn, that's really lookin' sweet - excellent X-acto work on cutting your paint masking lines in the overspray film!
Flippin' the color scheme was an inspired choice as well...
Looking forward to seeing your wheel choice and brazing skills!
Flippin' the color scheme was an inspired choice as well...
Looking forward to seeing your wheel choice and brazing skills!
Lookin good b-mow! I like how the paint came out, n the rad makes for good attention to detail. Keep up the good work!
Sent from my SM-J327VPP using Tapatalk
Sent from my SM-J327VPP using Tapatalk
Thanks durok!"thumbsup" Having the film sure does make painting a lot easier!
I've got a pair of the wheels now. I'm waiting on the other pair to come this week. I'll post a pic of them soon!
Thanks bama!"thumbsup"
The long wait is over and I can finally reveal the pics of the PRO at it's first photo session! I didn't have time take it out for it's first run, but I was able to do some "poser pics" on a pile of rocks in my yard.
Enjoy!
Here is a couple pics with my Origin.
And a few more after I parked it in the garage!
This was a blast to put together. These kits are by far the most enjoyable to assemble. The quality and craftsmanship that VP puts into these kits is outstanding!
Looking forward to getting the PRO out on the rocks and really seeing what it is made of. Having driven the Origin for a year now, I'm pretty sure what I am about to experience! The Origin has been a dream to drive and I'm sure the PRO will be even better!
Oh, I almost forgot, here is a pic of the wheels that I plan on running. They are the new Beef Tubes Beef Hooves 1.9 wheels. The face of the wheel and the hub can be mounted in 12 different positions giving me 12 different options for offset. I will be mounting the OG KLR's on them. Hoping to get them mounted up before the first run!
Thanks for looking!
Enjoy!
Here is a couple pics with my Origin.
And a few more after I parked it in the garage!
This was a blast to put together. These kits are by far the most enjoyable to assemble. The quality and craftsmanship that VP puts into these kits is outstanding!
Looking forward to getting the PRO out on the rocks and really seeing what it is made of. Having driven the Origin for a year now, I'm pretty sure what I am about to experience! The Origin has been a dream to drive and I'm sure the PRO will be even better!
Oh, I almost forgot, here is a pic of the wheels that I plan on running. They are the new Beef Tubes Beef Hooves 1.9 wheels. The face of the wheel and the hub can be mounted in 12 different positions giving me 12 different options for offset. I will be mounting the OG KLR's on them. Hoping to get them mounted up before the first run!
Thanks for looking!
The other set of Beef Tube Beef Hooves have arrived! These wheels come in either brass or aluminum with your choice of color. I chose the aluminum version which consists of an alum inner ring, alum face plate and alum rings. I also chose the brass hub which is also available in aluminum. The weight of the wheels with brass hubs without tires is 3.4 oz. each. Total weight of the wheels and tires is 6.7 oz. each.
These wheels give you many different offset options. These were very easy to assemble. The tire bead just lays in the inner ring channel and the bead lock ring screws on very easily.
I still have a couple more things I need to do to the PRO, so I mounted these wheels on my Origin and took it out for a quick run today.
I’m really happy with how they look and perform. I’m hoping to get the PRO all finished by next weekend. I will be attending a SORRCA comp next Sunday and plan on taking the PRO along to get it first run in and see how well it performs on the rocks.
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These wheels give you many different offset options. These were very easy to assemble. The tire bead just lays in the inner ring channel and the bead lock ring screws on very easily.
I still have a couple more things I need to do to the PRO, so I mounted these wheels on my Origin and took it out for a quick run today.
I’m really happy with how they look and perform. I’m hoping to get the PRO all finished by next weekend. I will be attending a SORRCA comp next Sunday and plan on taking the PRO along to get it first run in and see how well it performs on the rocks.
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Thanks hibbs! I appreciate it!"thumbsup"
Yeah, it took me awhile to get my Origin out on the rocks. Those were my very first VP Currie axles and I hated to scratch them. I'm really glad I got passed that because these rigs perform very well. And actually the scratches don't look to bad. They are pretty much just surface scratches and add character to them.
It's like ripping off a Band-aid. Once you get that first scratch, you can drive it like you want to.
