That is looking great. I was looking at this body for my Phoenix also. Now I will just watch progress. "thumbsup"
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B-MOW's 1987 Toyota XtraCab VP STR8 Axle
- Thread starter B-MOW71
- Start date
Steven McKay
Quarry Creeper
The build is getting more exciting every update, I learn so much from your builds. When I saw the shock keys and laid down shocks, I just smiled.
I was wanting my next build to be a straight axle flatbed, with no shock
towers. I thought I would have to go the Gmade 1/10 GS02 TA PRO chassis
kit route. I would rather it be a Phoenix with a lower motor/trans CG. My
hat is off to you."thumbsup"
I was wanting my next build to be a straight axle flatbed, with no shock
towers. I thought I would have to go the Gmade 1/10 GS02 TA PRO chassis
kit route. I would rather it be a Phoenix with a lower motor/trans CG. My
hat is off to you."thumbsup"
Coming together nicely!
Looking at the last pic, it made me think of automatic seat belts haha.
Looking at the last pic, it made me think of automatic seat belts haha.
Thanks!"thumbsup" I was surprised at how well this body fits this chassis.
Thanks Steven!"thumbsup" Thanks for following along! If you have any questions, I'll try my best to answer.
Thanks Goro! That's funny! I was like what seat belts!:shock: Then I saw it and now I can't unsee it!:lmao:
Here's the rest of the pics and modifications I made in order to mount the body.
First up is the RPM rod ends that are needed to push the rear axle back to line up with the rear wheel opening in the bed. I added the rod ends to both the upper and lower links. These rod ends are the perfect length to get the right wheelbase length for this body.
The center piece of the driveshaft seems to be ok, but if I see it causing a problem of being to short, I'll add in a longer center spline.
So I added the shock keys temporarily so that I could mount the bed on the chassis. I have a set of cantilever links on order so that I can lay the shocks down along side of the chassis. I didn't want to cut holes in the bed for the stock shock towers. Hoping the cantilever system will be here in the upcoming week so that I can get it figured out and installed. This will be my first rig with the cantilever system so I'm looking forward to seeing how it works or doesn't work.
Here's a look at the NSDRC micro servo. Fits perfectly under the bed so that no cutting was needed to fit the OD servo in. I did mount it on the bottom of the mount. The links and driveshaft does clear when suspension is compressed fully.
The next few pics shows the front inner fenders and the mods I did to make them fit inside the body. Had to notch the front of the fenders a bit and cut off most of the rear. Once I get the interior put together and installed, I'll get a better idea of how much more will need to be cut. I may add in some styrene to fill in the gaps if necessary.
And for your viewing pleasure, here are a couple bonus pics!
I still need to cut them automatic seat belts off @Goro!:lmao:
First up is the RPM rod ends that are needed to push the rear axle back to line up with the rear wheel opening in the bed. I added the rod ends to both the upper and lower links. These rod ends are the perfect length to get the right wheelbase length for this body.
The center piece of the driveshaft seems to be ok, but if I see it causing a problem of being to short, I'll add in a longer center spline.
So I added the shock keys temporarily so that I could mount the bed on the chassis. I have a set of cantilever links on order so that I can lay the shocks down along side of the chassis. I didn't want to cut holes in the bed for the stock shock towers. Hoping the cantilever system will be here in the upcoming week so that I can get it figured out and installed. This will be my first rig with the cantilever system so I'm looking forward to seeing how it works or doesn't work.
Here's a look at the NSDRC micro servo. Fits perfectly under the bed so that no cutting was needed to fit the OD servo in. I did mount it on the bottom of the mount. The links and driveshaft does clear when suspension is compressed fully.
The next few pics shows the front inner fenders and the mods I did to make them fit inside the body. Had to notch the front of the fenders a bit and cut off most of the rear. Once I get the interior put together and installed, I'll get a better idea of how much more will need to be cut. I may add in some styrene to fill in the gaps if necessary.
And for your viewing pleasure, here are a couple bonus pics!
I still need to cut them automatic seat belts off @Goro!:lmao:Steven McKay
Quarry Creeper
Next step is figuring out the cantilever kit. The kit that I ordered from Amazon has arrived. It's a fairly cheap kit at $32 and comes with shocks. Probably not the best quality, but thought I'd give it a try before I put the money into a better kit. This is the first time that I've ever used the cantilever suspension, so I'm not really sure what to expect.
Kit temporarily installed. I first installed it like the stock pic that I attached. The shocks are supposed to mount to the rear of the chassis. I couldn't get the right angle for the link to axle in that position. Also the shocks are not quite long enough for the suspension travel that I was looking for.
So I flipped some brackets around and installed the stock S8E shocks towards the front of the chassis to see how it looked. Much better results and alignment. I only attached the chassis bracket with one screw for now.
Here is a look at it at full extension. And the next pic is at full compression. At full compression there is plenty of room between the axle and rear chassis brace/fuel cell.
The next couple of pics is showing how much flex the cantilever kit gets. Way too much flex for me, so I'll be adding fuel tubing to the shocks to tame down that radical flex down!! I want to limit the travel so that the tires do not come in contact with the body. More on that later.
And the final pic showing how it is currently installed. I had to drill a hole in the chassis rails to add a screw to the front edge of the mounting plate. Replaced all of the crap screws that the kit came with with Team KNK stainless steel screws. The system cycles really smooth. I'll have more updates when I get the shocks limited.
Kit temporarily installed. I first installed it like the stock pic that I attached. The shocks are supposed to mount to the rear of the chassis. I couldn't get the right angle for the link to axle in that position. Also the shocks are not quite long enough for the suspension travel that I was looking for.
So I flipped some brackets around and installed the stock S8E shocks towards the front of the chassis to see how it looked. Much better results and alignment. I only attached the chassis bracket with one screw for now.
Here is a look at it at full extension. And the next pic is at full compression. At full compression there is plenty of room between the axle and rear chassis brace/fuel cell.
The next couple of pics is showing how much flex the cantilever kit gets. Way too much flex for me, so I'll be adding fuel tubing to the shocks to tame down that radical flex down!! I want to limit the travel so that the tires do not come in contact with the body. More on that later.
And the final pic showing how it is currently installed. I had to drill a hole in the chassis rails to add a screw to the front edge of the mounting plate. Replaced all of the crap screws that the kit came with with Team KNK stainless steel screws. The system cycles really smooth. I'll have more updates when I get the shocks limited.
Steven McKay
Quarry Creeper
Liken it, a lot.
DirtMerchant
Pebble Pounder
That cantilever kit provides a lot more travel than I thought. I’m definitely interested to know how those NSDRC micro servos work out. I’m starting a Phoenix build soon, and I really like the idea of using those.
Yeah same here. I had no idea there would be that much travel.
Looking forward to getting these micro servos fired up. I do have them on my other build that’s currently on the bench too and so far they have worked flawlessly. I spent a good hour in the basement shifting the hell out of them and haven’t had any problems. True test will be out on the rocks this Spring.
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Those lil nsdrc servos will take a beatin fellas, a 60ft fall off a cliff beatin. Ive got the same setup on my v3 phoenix. No binding so far. One did act like it didnt wanna work, unplugged it n plugged it back in n no issue since.
Gettin excited to see these builds out on the rocks brian, n so color on the yota
Gettin excited to see these builds out on the rocks brian, n so color on the yota
Good to know about the little micros! 60 foot fall!:shock: I'd say they past the beating test!:ror:
Thanks bama!!"thumbsup" Color is still up in the air. I may wait until warmer weather to spray this one. I'd hate to screw this hard body up!:roll:
I dont blame u one bit B. When i painted my c1, i was pressed for time due to scale nats beatin on the door. Ended up paintin mine on the back porch (inside the house) with a heater to help cure the paint. It was in the 30s outside n a bit wet. Turned out good though, for having to redo the top of the cab 3 times. Paint kept wrinkling up n peelin off for some reason
Oh yeah, I remember seeing you post that in your build thread.
I'm really not a big fan of painting bodies, especially hard bodies, so I'd like to keep the paint process as easy as possible!
I'll wait for the perfect day, no rain, snow, sub-arctic temps, wind, humidity, bugs and etc.!:lmao: Right, dream on!:roll:
