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Yeti XL Aftermarket Thread

I just got my upper link in today, gonna fix the XL up and maybe run it tomorrow for the first time in a while since the state got rid of my giant asphalt pile :cry:. I've found some fun hill climbs to clean up though.
 
RPM lower A arms installed.

90bd1c33a240c3ec7e9869addc6bc421.jpg


Sent from a galaxy far far away

Today's upgrades
Traxxas stability system receiver
Traxxas telemetry
Hot racing danglers
Hot racing body leash for body and battery trays
Hot racing stickers
Last not in the pic lead tape for balancing the tires

dc2b1ef2ac294275db206cae459b68b7.jpg


Sent from a galaxy far far away

Today's upgrade HR piggyback shocks. Have to wait till next week for the other 2 shocks. Wife's getting mad all the money I keep putting in this truck. Only $250 more and I'll have everything Hot racing makes for the yeti. Minus front arms I'm keeping them RPM.

05c51106e471f5192d1332a9bd1b34d3.jpg


Sent from a galaxy far far away

Installed

80c76ba54521d13d0d75de1fcca5b916.jpg


Sent from a galaxy far far away
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Does the hr upper links have a lip to hold body up like stock ones do? Is there any slop in the pivot balls on the hr upper/lowers?

I was going to order some vp titanium links for uppers but not sure if revo or rpm rod ends would hold up to 4s/6s. Plus I dont think those links would hold the body up in rear either.

I cant stand the slop with plastic and plastic pivot balls.
 
There is no lip to hold the body up. That's why I have that orange aluminum spacer sticking out of the truss it holds the body perfect. And yes HR links take slot of slop out. The truck is very solid with all the HR Aluminum

Sent from a galaxy far far away
 
I wedged some body clip leashes between the hood and the cage this weekend because those bastards run away every time. While I was fumbling around with the stupid trays, I thought "double sided leashes for the battery tray...I'M A GENIUS!!!". Thanks for bursting my bubble.

Your Yeti looks great. I haven't considered the slop in the rear being an issue, I've been so focused on the front. As much as the rear end slams around while getting on the throttle it seems like reducing that slop could potentially prolong the ring and pinion life. I have no idea if it would, I'm not a mechanical engineer.

I like any reasoning that results in me getting parts w/o buyers remorse.




gregm412 said:
Today's upgrades
Traxxas stability system receiver
Traxxas telemetry
Hot racing danglers
Hot racing body leash for body and battery trays
Hot racing stickers
Last not in the pic lead tape for balancing the tires

Sent from a galaxy far far away
Click to expand...
 
There's not much slop in the front anymore. I replaced the bell crank, steering link, and turnbuckles. I added shims to the front axels and removed TON of slop there.
 
Where did you put the shims?

When I place my order from dhawk, he has steel pivot balls for cheap im goin to get for rear links and shocks, hopefully they'll last but may have to get some hr upper/lowers.
 
Anybody know how to properly fill the HR piggyback shocks to utilize the screw pressure part of them? I followed the YouTube video and not sure if he is right. Thanks

Sent from a galaxy far far away
 
84yoda said:
Where did you put the shims?

When I place my order from dhawk, he has steel pivot balls for cheap im goin to get for rear links and shocks, hopefully they'll last but may have to get some hr upper/lowers.
Click to expand...

I bought the DHAWK steel pivot balls before I started my kit build and they are great. Nice fit no slop. There was no way I was going to use plastic pivot balls.
 
So I know front bulk head and shock caps are both problem items, wondering how many people are running the dhawk aluminum front bulk head and aluminum shock caps? Should I add them to my order? I hate the waiting game, so I would rather get it now then have to order and wait later on if/when they fail. But at the same time, I feel like im jynxing myself ordering in advance. As of right now everything is fine but who knows what could happen to it in a week.
 
Bought the DHAWK AL shock caps after I broke the stockers. Nice stuff no problems. I use Team Associated #89351 shock bladders instead of the o-rings in the shock caps.
 
The response I got from hot racing on how to fill the piggyback shocks

Bleed the piggybacks like normal shocks, then use the adjuster on the bottom of the piggyback to tune the internal pressure and rebound of the shock to your liking. There is an image of the adjustment on the bottom of*THIS*page.
Do not fill the piggyback cylinder from the bottom, although you can fill the small space above the piggyback piston. If you unscrew the piggyback cylinder from the shock cap, you'll notice there is a small space above the piston in which you can put a few drops of oil.

Sent from a galaxy far far away

That is the response I got from hot racing on how to fill the piggyback shocks

Sent from a galaxy far far away
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Post up what you think of those CI foams. Will the tires still need taping inside to help with balloning or will the foams pretty much take care of that?

What are you guys doing to balance your tires? Sticking weights on the outside inner rim?
 
84yoda said:
Post up what you think of those CI foams. Will the tires still need taping inside to help with balloning or will the foams pretty much take care of that?

What are you guys doing to balance your tires? Sticking weights on the outside inner rim?
Click to expand...

I have not run them yet as I want to give the glue a day to dry. But I can tell a huge difference between them. With the CI foam, the tire is Flat across the tread, vers a peak in the middle with the stock foams and the sides of the tire is now very well supported. The tire has little give compared to the stock foam. I'm only running 4S so I do not have much ballooning.
 
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