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TRX4-XL "SUPERSIZER" -- another BIG RIG to challenge SCX6!!
- Thread starter WRXronald
- Start date
WRXronald
Rock Crawler
I kinda like the pins giving way before anything else -- -easy quick fix, extremely cheap too. BEEF the pin and break the axle instead --- well its a VITAVON RYFT Portal output shaft ---- they don't sell em separate from the portal kit for $220. Maybe they'd sell me an individual shaft who knows.
Ah well -- SCX6 axles eventually!!!
Here she is hittin' some tougher powder --- there are parts in this video where it just goes goes goes and even if it can't go forward its almost always still able to back out and get another running start!! Love it!!!
I got the 5mm bore 25T pinion today -- install tonight and then its geared 66% faster than in this vid!!! Not sure if the motor can handle that so that's what the 5065 big motor upgrade will be for if we get that far...
Ah well -- SCX6 axles eventually!!!
Here she is hittin' some tougher powder --- there are parts in this video where it just goes goes goes and even if it can't go forward its almost always still able to back out and get another running start!! Love it!!!
I got the 5mm bore 25T pinion today -- install tonight and then its geared 66% faster than in this vid!!! Not sure if the motor can handle that so that's what the 5065 big motor upgrade will be for if we get that far...
WRXronald
Rock Crawler
Got the 25tooth pinion installed on the 4250 motor 600kv -- step up from 15tooth --- quick 20 second test run in the dark in the driveway area --- IT RIPS!!!!
I think the 5065 may be wholly unnecessary --- early to say for sure but seemed to have plenty of torque on start ups in high gear climbing snow hills and plenty of slow speed control and precision still in low gear!!
And I just looked up these 4250 NEEBRC motors on Ali again -- they are showing up to 7s lipo for these motors --- I didn't realize could take the voltage -- so I can volt-up (gear up essentially) by another 75%. I'd say would be approaching 10mph at that point -- almost too fast.
Its an easy up-volt too -- already running 4s lipos -- just add a 3s in series with same MAH as the 4s block = voila 7s!!! LOVE IT!!
Speed test and more snow runs tomorrow hopefully!!!
I think the 5065 may be wholly unnecessary --- early to say for sure but seemed to have plenty of torque on start ups in high gear climbing snow hills and plenty of slow speed control and precision still in low gear!!
And I just looked up these 4250 NEEBRC motors on Ali again -- they are showing up to 7s lipo for these motors --- I didn't realize could take the voltage -- so I can volt-up (gear up essentially) by another 75%. I'd say would be approaching 10mph at that point -- almost too fast.
Its an easy up-volt too -- already running 4s lipos -- just add a 3s in series with same MAH as the 4s block = voila 7s!!! LOVE IT!!
Speed test and more snow runs tomorrow hopefully!!!
WRXronald
Rock Crawler
New pins held up solid to increased WHEEL SPEED!!! Vid below stepped up from 15 tooth to 25 tooth MOD1 pinion -- 66% higher gearing!!
Very exciting stuff -- I'm beginning to thrash it a bit harder, pull into throttle faster and with more impunity. So far, so good..... of course could break at any point.
From here, I think will gear up to 6s from 4s and continue sticking with the 4250 motor --- in this vid you can see its JUST beginning to sow the stages of not having enough torque to get the tires turning --- but ONLY when bound down heavily and in high gear... I quick shift to low gear gets out of the jam no problem. The bigger motor would like solve for this issue while at same gear ratios, of course with increased possibility of drivetrain carnage.
It now seems plenty fast enough -- 6s only get another 20-25% wheelspeed so LFG... I have an extra 2s 5200mah lipo sitting here so just need to solder up a three-way series plug adapter.
SCX6 transmission -- yep i'm impressed so far!!!
Very exciting stuff -- I'm beginning to thrash it a bit harder, pull into throttle faster and with more impunity. So far, so good..... of course could break at any point.
From here, I think will gear up to 6s from 4s and continue sticking with the 4250 motor --- in this vid you can see its JUST beginning to sow the stages of not having enough torque to get the tires turning --- but ONLY when bound down heavily and in high gear... I quick shift to low gear gets out of the jam no problem. The bigger motor would like solve for this issue while at same gear ratios, of course with increased possibility of drivetrain carnage.
It now seems plenty fast enough -- 6s only get another 20-25% wheelspeed so LFG... I have an extra 2s 5200mah lipo sitting here so just need to solder up a three-way series plug adapter.
SCX6 transmission -- yep i'm impressed so far!!!
WRXronald
Rock Crawler
Holy Jack cows batman!!! I had a spare 3s 5200mah 80c just laying around...... After an hour struggle trying to install the larger 5065 motor and failing (25t pinion has too large a diameter set screw collar area to fit in the SCX6 transmission mount -- i'll need a narrower neck to make it work or have a lot of bore-holing to do that's not worth it). It can be done but I think just need a differently created pinion style.
Besides that --- I had this 3s layin' around and the Ali specs for the 4250 outrunner rate it for up to 7s lipo!!!! Muhahaha.... lets see.. 4s + 3s = ? you betcha!!!
I wired up a 3 way series connector and now have 2s 5200mah + 2s 5200mah + 3s 5200mah for a total of 7s 5200mah 80c.....
Its WICKED.
I had to adjust the ESC programming a fair amount --- it doesn't seem to like high voltage + high brakes + high Sine-mode startup power.
So I nixed Sine mode startup altogether --- sacrificed a bit of low speed capability but honestly it still crawls VERY slow with insane TORQUE. Should still be good here but more testing to be done on rocks once snow clears out.
I came back off Regular mode Start-up power to 100 out of 150 (down from 150), and bumped timing up from 7.5 degrees to 22.5 degrees ---- this seemed to allow brakes to work well on 9 out of 10 setting. It stuttered strangley on high voltage when you push on the brakes hard (IE its stopped and you try to make it roll forward with outside force).... almost like the brakes couldn't hold or time correctly. weird. At 22 degrees and 1 of 10 Sine-mode start-up power the brakes were much better behaved --- I just had to give away that EXTREME slow speed start-up range -- honestly at 600kv, it was too slow to be practical anyways.
As for high gear, well lets just say Low gear now has just about EVERY drop of speed I could need -- even in the snow. In high gear, uh well yeah look out --- she ain't gonna last long lol!!!
SO SO SO FAST!!!! BLAZING!!! Throwing snow like nutso!!! Vid tomorrow I'm sure --- we'll see how long till it goes SNAPPO!!!
Will be FUN for a hot minute - if I'm careful and stick mostly to snow I might be ok. Gonna have to come back off for summer rock crawling --- it would never last with this kind of power in high gear --- would be full on ROCK BOUNCER capable (if things wouldn't break which guarantee they would break instantly -- still 32 pitch in the RYFT axles, etc 2.5mm pins).
Up to about 33lbs now (also added another 2200mah of 3s for the servo, went from 1800mah lipo and replaced with a 4000mah to longer runs between servo/radio system charges).
Should be fun in mud and snow and maybe I can just stay out of high gear during the summer crawler months -- only hit that for mudder days maybe! Low gear will be more than enough speed for those rock crawler BLIP the wheelspeed type moments... i'm certain of that. I'd say Low gear is now really quite close to the speed of high gear previously on 4s.
Besides that --- I had this 3s layin' around and the Ali specs for the 4250 outrunner rate it for up to 7s lipo!!!! Muhahaha.... lets see.. 4s + 3s = ? you betcha!!!
I wired up a 3 way series connector and now have 2s 5200mah + 2s 5200mah + 3s 5200mah for a total of 7s 5200mah 80c.....
Its WICKED.
I had to adjust the ESC programming a fair amount --- it doesn't seem to like high voltage + high brakes + high Sine-mode startup power.
So I nixed Sine mode startup altogether --- sacrificed a bit of low speed capability but honestly it still crawls VERY slow with insane TORQUE. Should still be good here but more testing to be done on rocks once snow clears out.
I came back off Regular mode Start-up power to 100 out of 150 (down from 150), and bumped timing up from 7.5 degrees to 22.5 degrees ---- this seemed to allow brakes to work well on 9 out of 10 setting. It stuttered strangley on high voltage when you push on the brakes hard (IE its stopped and you try to make it roll forward with outside force).... almost like the brakes couldn't hold or time correctly. weird. At 22 degrees and 1 of 10 Sine-mode start-up power the brakes were much better behaved --- I just had to give away that EXTREME slow speed start-up range -- honestly at 600kv, it was too slow to be practical anyways.
As for high gear, well lets just say Low gear now has just about EVERY drop of speed I could need -- even in the snow. In high gear, uh well yeah look out --- she ain't gonna last long lol!!!
SO SO SO FAST!!!! BLAZING!!! Throwing snow like nutso!!! Vid tomorrow I'm sure --- we'll see how long till it goes SNAPPO!!!
Will be FUN for a hot minute - if I'm careful and stick mostly to snow I might be ok. Gonna have to come back off for summer rock crawling --- it would never last with this kind of power in high gear --- would be full on ROCK BOUNCER capable (if things wouldn't break which guarantee they would break instantly -- still 32 pitch in the RYFT axles, etc 2.5mm pins).
Up to about 33lbs now (also added another 2200mah of 3s for the servo, went from 1800mah lipo and replaced with a 4000mah to longer runs between servo/radio system charges).
Should be fun in mud and snow and maybe I can just stay out of high gear during the summer crawler months -- only hit that for mudder days maybe! Low gear will be more than enough speed for those rock crawler BLIP the wheelspeed type moments... i'm certain of that. I'd say Low gear is now really quite close to the speed of high gear previously on 4s.
WRXronald
Rock Crawler
Here it is -- still on 4250 14pole Outrunner - just upped from 4s to 7s, on max sized pinion MOD1 25tooth ---
Ok so I get its pretty common and everyday thing to see SCX6's thrashing and bashing like the dickens, but this is pretty much the bashiest I get....
High wheelspeed thats for sure... really cut thru some serious POW POW like butter.... Lovin' it!!! Def can see stepping back down to 4s for summertime rock crawling....... Or keep the 7s for long run times and step the pinion down 25t to 15t.
Have to assume would be a bit faster even still without 2.5lbs of rotating mass around the tires and wheels worth of chains....... at points I was chugging to run the camera and keep up lol!!!
Ok so I get its pretty common and everyday thing to see SCX6's thrashing and bashing like the dickens, but this is pretty much the bashiest I get....
High wheelspeed thats for sure... really cut thru some serious POW POW like butter.... Lovin' it!!! Def can see stepping back down to 4s for summertime rock crawling....... Or keep the 7s for long run times and step the pinion down 25t to 15t.
Have to assume would be a bit faster even still without 2.5lbs of rotating mass around the tires and wheels worth of chains....... at points I was chugging to run the camera and keep up lol!!!
WRXronald
Rock Crawler
Confused, didn't there used to be a way to edit a post or thread title? I was gonna change the title... its just not even a TRX4 any more!!
Now its just another FrankenBigRig LOL!
Now its just another FrankenBigRig LOL!
WRXronald
Rock Crawler
Ok so I de-tuned back to 4s. Grenaded the rear ring & pinion -- but it was stock from the aftermarket Ali steel Ryft Axle set. The front blew out when I sneezed on them just about the first time I ran the axles months ago. Replaced with Vitavon helical set. Had the rear Vitavon helical ready and waiting.
Now its in. Not going back to 7s to find out the hard way what breaks next, also its stuttering weirdly on 7s unless I reduce Drag brake to very low levels... I get it, that's a lot of rpm to stop on an instant.
But I want a drag brake and I want my SINEWAVE precision slow speed control setting --- so it makes sense de-tune back to 4s, its plenty fast still on the 25t pinion and plenty powerful enough.
I stepped up to 30mm wheels wideners for the 17mm hex wheel adapters (from 20's) only because the 20's I have are for 3mm cotter pins and the RYFT Vitavon portals take 2.5mm pins. Its bending pins fast and bad, leads to premature breakage.
So I had a set of 30mm's that take 2.5mm pins and threw them on -- picked up almost an inch of overall width --- Love it!!!
Also worth it to de-tune because that INSANE 7s wheelspeed will destroy parts fast in anything other than soft Powder snow (like my vid) or maybe mudder bogs. The Ryft Vitavon is still just 32 pitch stuff. Everything in the rear (Vitavon axles shafts and portal shafts/gears) looks flawless still and barely even used -- I like that!! Been thrashing for sure!
The snow is back to frozen hard again today and so tonight I was basically rock crawling all the snow mounds with the insane chain grip with preciision slow speed low gear on 4s. Had plenty of power even on High gear to climb the mounds slow enough -- high gear just can't get 'er moving from a standstill when the wheels are bound on obstacles -- nothing unusual for a 2speed crawler with decently fast high gear. New rear end was holding just fine with the Vitavon's so far!!
New extra width crawls nice too, adding stability left to right kept it from tipping when all tweaked out on the mounds. Vids soon!!! Moderate thaw coming so maybe some muddy slushy ditch water vids are next!!! Its all water-proofed so should be ready to deep-dive!!!!
Now its in. Not going back to 7s to find out the hard way what breaks next, also its stuttering weirdly on 7s unless I reduce Drag brake to very low levels... I get it, that's a lot of rpm to stop on an instant.
But I want a drag brake and I want my SINEWAVE precision slow speed control setting --- so it makes sense de-tune back to 4s, its plenty fast still on the 25t pinion and plenty powerful enough.
I stepped up to 30mm wheels wideners for the 17mm hex wheel adapters (from 20's) only because the 20's I have are for 3mm cotter pins and the RYFT Vitavon portals take 2.5mm pins. Its bending pins fast and bad, leads to premature breakage.
So I had a set of 30mm's that take 2.5mm pins and threw them on -- picked up almost an inch of overall width --- Love it!!!
Also worth it to de-tune because that INSANE 7s wheelspeed will destroy parts fast in anything other than soft Powder snow (like my vid) or maybe mudder bogs. The Ryft Vitavon is still just 32 pitch stuff. Everything in the rear (Vitavon axles shafts and portal shafts/gears) looks flawless still and barely even used -- I like that!! Been thrashing for sure!
The snow is back to frozen hard again today and so tonight I was basically rock crawling all the snow mounds with the insane chain grip with preciision slow speed low gear on 4s. Had plenty of power even on High gear to climb the mounds slow enough -- high gear just can't get 'er moving from a standstill when the wheels are bound on obstacles -- nothing unusual for a 2speed crawler with decently fast high gear. New rear end was holding just fine with the Vitavon's so far!!
New extra width crawls nice too, adding stability left to right kept it from tipping when all tweaked out on the mounds. Vids soon!!! Moderate thaw coming so maybe some muddy slushy ditch water vids are next!!! Its all water-proofed so should be ready to deep-dive!!!!
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WRXronald
Rock Crawler
Sorted out a few remaining items on the undercarriage, suspension -- achieved additional triangulation of the rear end both wider upper 4 links and narrower meeting point for the lowers at the chassis -- and got a STEEL plate skid installed under the transmission/center plate for sliding over rocks.
Also -- beefed the rear 4-links from 8nm steel rods to 10mm steel rods --- better rigidity as these 4-links are really quite long so you get flex w/out getting THICK.
Keeping THICK in mind lol, check out the new rear driveshaft STEEL Sleeve!!! LOL is 25mm x 22mm and it is just there to "sleeve" over and protect the 20mm aluminum driveshaft that puts the drive to the axle -- I used masking tape to get a few thick strips so the steel tube mates TIGHTLY over the aluminum driveshaft, might JB Weld it eventually, seems no need for now ----- thoughts are that the aluminum driveshaft is going to GALL badly on rocks and things of this sort, already has some nasty scratches, while the steel is slip and slide over obstacles easily during rotation, won't take damage nearly as easily as the softer aluminum. Got it in there just right so it doesn't rub on anything has a few mm of clearance even at full suspension compression!
Also worth noting that's the EXACT same steel skid plate and alum rails under it now that I was using back when the TRX4 transmission was in this rig and I first SUPER-SIZED it. The skid was angled and back behind the stock TRX4 skid. I was able to retro fit it and didn't even have to drill any new holes in the STEEL to get it fitted!!! Yet its in the truck completely differently -- as a fully flat, bottomed, and centered (mostly) proper skid plate now!!!
Also -- beefed the rear 4-links from 8nm steel rods to 10mm steel rods --- better rigidity as these 4-links are really quite long so you get flex w/out getting THICK.
Keeping THICK in mind lol, check out the new rear driveshaft STEEL Sleeve!!! LOL is 25mm x 22mm and it is just there to "sleeve" over and protect the 20mm aluminum driveshaft that puts the drive to the axle -- I used masking tape to get a few thick strips so the steel tube mates TIGHTLY over the aluminum driveshaft, might JB Weld it eventually, seems no need for now ----- thoughts are that the aluminum driveshaft is going to GALL badly on rocks and things of this sort, already has some nasty scratches, while the steel is slip and slide over obstacles easily during rotation, won't take damage nearly as easily as the softer aluminum. Got it in there just right so it doesn't rub on anything has a few mm of clearance even at full suspension compression!
Also worth noting that's the EXACT same steel skid plate and alum rails under it now that I was using back when the TRX4 transmission was in this rig and I first SUPER-SIZED it. The skid was angled and back behind the stock TRX4 skid. I was able to retro fit it and didn't even have to drill any new holes in the STEEL to get it fitted!!! Yet its in the truck completely differently -- as a fully flat, bottomed, and centered (mostly) proper skid plate now!!!
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