Yeti XL Aftermarket Thread

[pro mod steve]

No locktite needed for the HR motor mount. I used anti-sieze on the bolts to prevent galling of threads. Mine stays nice and tight no problems at all and I have taken some crashes that should have knocked the motor out of the truck. The HR motor mount is a really nice piece well worth the money to me.

 

[gregm412]

I don't think loctite is needed for the top 2 bolts. They hold very tight.
The limiters work great. They keep the shocks from fully extending by about 5 to 10mm just right. They also help from loosing the bottom spring retainer that has happened to me before. Yes I should be getting the front limiters next week when I get the knuckles and C hubs. That will complete my build with everything hot racing makes installed. Tomorrows upgrade is HR bulkhead skid plate

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[OV 5IVE-T]

Can you guys tell me if a Hitec 5765 MH servo will work on YXL's for steering, or is it too big? Thinking real hard of buying a YXL kit and have a new servo in box just looking for work. Thanks.

 

[racinfast002]

I ordered the Dhawk motor plate anyone run it? Just wondering if I should have ordered the HR one instead.

 

[gregm412]

Today's upgrade Hot Racing bulk head skid plate

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[gregm412]

Installed. The rpm arms was a little thick fitting Into The bulkhead had to shave them down a little.

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[BrandonM95]

Installed. The rpm arms was a little thick fitting Into The bulkhead had to shave them down a little.

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had to do the same thing with the stock arms too.

 

[84yoda]

For anyone who wants to run vanquish titanium links for front steering/turnbuckles, here is what I used.

Vanquish 55mm link + 5347 rod ends (70mm overal) for servo horn to servo saver. Vanquish 85mm + 5347 rod ends (100mm overall) but turn out both sides to roughly 103mm (use stock plastic to get it exact length). Vanquish 90mm + 5347 rod end (105mm overall) but turn out both ends to roughly 108mm (use stock plastic to get it exact length). So from vanquish you will need, one 55mm, two 85mm and two 90mm titanium links plus a bag of TRA5347 rod ends.

 

[Tekyguy]

What shock oil do you guys recommend with the stock springs and axial sway bar in the rear only? I was thinking to up the front to 50 and the rear to 35. I'm trying to stiffen it up a bit and reduce the body slapping on jumps. I've never really tuned an RC suspension.


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[84yoda]

Well that depends what shocks your running, kit or rtr? Dual or single rate springs?

 

[Tekyguy]

RTR stock shocks. I haven't adjusted preload on the spring either. Maybe just some preload will help. What do you think?

 

[84yoda]

Im not sure if adding thicker oil will help, the stock rear spring rate is pretty weak. I put the front rtr springs in rear and thicker oil which definitely helped.

Everybody has different terrain and feeling they want from the shocks so its hard to tell you what will work. Just gotta go change it up and see what you like for your terrain and driving style.

 

[Tekyguy]

Maybe I should just buy the kit springs and start there. I hate to crank preload down too much because you seem to get a lot more bounce back and bucking in the back. Thanks for your feedback.

 

[84yoda]

Kit springs are actually worse, just try out the thicker oil, that will help with bouncing by making compression and rebound slower.

 

[Deckard]

I just put the 6.8 lbs Axial springs on the front with 45 w oil and very little preload. They worked perfectly for me at the BMX track. Still running the front RTR stock springs with 45w oil in the rear. It's a personal preference thing with the suspension. I agree that running a lot of preload makes the truck feel a bit bouncy. I'm much happier with stiffer springs upfront and less preload.

 

[Tekyguy]

Oh ok. I thought the kit springs had a higher spring weight.

 

[tonyfalkon]

The RTR came with a lot of extra parts for your suspension tuning you can change the pistons of the shock 4 hole front 6 hole at the back more hole faster rebound less slower. You can swap the shocks front to back and just work on the back shocks, if you proceed this way you will need stiffer springs about 6 lbs and thicker 50 wt shock oil and if its going to be used for a lot of jumping you might want to consider putting Associated 89351 16 mm shock bladders they are a direct fit. For me when I'm jumping the rig I prefer this type they're more consistent on the rebound, I use sway bars for taming the torque twist but only when doing speed runs specially with 6s it helps plant the wheels on the ground.

 

[84yoda]

Do you still run the o-ring in cap or does the bladder take care of that instead?

Deckard, so the yellow springs up front are the way to go? I was thinkin green up front but may just try the yellows up front and maybe green in rear.

For easy reference for other people interested in stiffer springs, green 5.35lb spring ax31241 and yellow 6.76lb spring ax31242.

 

[tonyfalkon]

I run both I figured the chamber on top of the bladder will be double sealed downside (depending on how tight you put the cap back on) the o-ring and the bladder lip will be mushed even tighter, what I do is just finger tight, hand tight pushes more torque. I have the HR red, green and yellow/gold, they are stiffer than original red at 4.8 lbs, green at 5.73 lbs and gold close to 7 lbs, I moved the 4 hole piston front with original 4.52 lbs white springs to the back, and back 6 hole piston with HR green to front 50 wt all around. It keeps the torque twist in check without using a swaybar very favorable in soft surfaces like manicured lawns,muddy roads and sand dune climbs, bad on medium and hard surface like dirt, gravel, clay, beach, and rocky road it'll bounce and roll like riding a bucking bronco except on asphalt. But just a caveat it suits my driving style and I use a different set of shocks and tires that suits medium, hard terrains and when jumping.

 

[Tekyguy]

Thanks for those part numbers 84yoda. I think I'll order those up and bump to a 50wt in the front and 35wt in the rear and see how she goes. I run all kinds of terrain like grass and asphalt around the neighborhood and then jumps and rougher terrain at the park. Big jumps with mainly grassy landings but can still be hard.

I'm also going to put 500k in the rear diff and 200k in the front.