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SHV500 12v servo- you don't need a BEC!

I think you're misunderstanding me. I'm not saying use crimp connectors...I'm saying buy a servo terminal crimping tool. Cut your cables to length...crimp on new pins, install new connector....done. Without having to open the servo. I've done it this way for quadcopters/drones and it looks clean and professional.

I know your method would get the same result if completed correctly and doesn't require a new tool, but someone inexperienced in soldering could apply too much heat to the board, use an iron thats too hot and fry the board, could burn off the pads, etc etc.

The crimper way, you cut to the desired length...trim wire cover...install new connector and bam done. No risk of ruining the board.

https://www.amazon.com/Professional...&qid=1470093097&sr=8-3&keywords=servo+crimper
HobbyKing JST-SH Connector Crimping Tool

13446(2).jpg

Those are great connector crimpers, got a pair myself! Cut and crimp new connector good as factory.

John, sweet new servos, love that they don't need BEC! "thumbsup"
 
Anything is possible. You could remove the motor from the case, with some time and smarts. You could desolder those wires too. Or maybe you will overheat the board and ruin it, as I did the first try.

When I give specific recommendations, it is always taken as suggestion that people try it. I'm not fond of suggesting ways to easily destroy products.

Get it now? Nothing against you, it's everyone else I have to worry about. "thumbsup"

If only your post was as informative as the poster further up the page. A post that actually fixed the issue, instead of just snarkily replying.

Many thanks again to Shinjari for his helpful informative and non condescending post.. I will be buying that tool soon, Shinjari "thumbsup"
 
Installed 4 of the 5 I ordered. Drove 3 of the rigs in my back yard to get trim levels correct. These are leaps and bounds quieter than the Hitec 7955, 7954, 7950s they replaced. Granted I didn't mess with the dead band on the Hitecs so maybe they could be less noisy.

Ridiculously fast, love that they use m3 screws instead of that m2.6 hitec did. Now I can use the same hardware on my rig as my servo should I need to replace one on the trail instead of hoping I still have a m2.6 somewhere in my trail hardware pack.

Sounds good Capwn...hope the tool works out for you. At this point I haven't really used it for my trail rigs since I have plenty of space to hide things. Don't own any comp crawlers either. They did wonders when we were trying to minimize weight on our hex-copter drone by eliminating unnecessary wire lengths.

Also gotta understand HH is representing his company and is talking to a lot of people of varying skill levels. I'm sure he's been burned in the past when someone without the skill level to properly work on electronics decided to try something and somehow blame it on the product or something they read here that was "ok" to do. So he's gotta put a disclaimer or not advise things in a public forum to minimize/eliminate avoidable product failures. Just the way it is. Don't think he was attempting to belittle or be condescending.
 
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If only your post was as informative as the poster further up the page. A post that actually fixed the issue, instead of just snarkily replying.

Many thanks again to Shinjari for his helpful informative and non condescending post.. I will be buying that tool soon, Shinjari "thumbsup"

I've done my best with the time and experience available. As I said, it is nothing against you, my attitude is to ensure the response is not misunderstood. I have no experience with crimpers, I just cut and splice on my personal rigs. I do have experience breaking these servos internally trying to dewire them. Take my advice as you want, I barely have time for posting and this has taken a lot of it.

I'm not putting on kid gloves to detail my recommendations against ruining a servo. I want this to be a strong (snarky) response so people have no doubts about what I say. Don't solder inside the servo. Crimp on new connectors or cut and splice the wires shorter if needed. I still have nothing more to say, because I have nothing of value to add in regards to shortening a wire.


Installed 4 of the 5 I ordered. Drove 3 of the rigs in my back yard to get trim levels correct. These are leaps and bounds quieter than the Hitec 7955, 7954, 7950s they replaced. Granted I didn't mess with the dead band on the Hitecs so maybe they could be less noisy.

Ridiculously fast, love that they use m3 screws instead of that m2.6 hitec did. Now I can use the same hardware on my rig as my servo should I need to replace one on the trail instead of hoping I still have a m2.6 somewhere in my trail hardware pack.

Sounds good Capwn...hope the tool works out for you. At this point I haven't really used it for my trail rigs since I have plenty of space to hide things. Don't own any comp crawlers either. They did wonders when we were trying to minimize weight on our hex-copter drone by eliminating unnecessary wire lengths.

Also gotta understand HH is representing his company and is talking to a lot of people of varying skill levels. I'm sure he's been burned in the past when someone without the skill level to properly work on electronics decided to try something and somehow blame it on the product or something they read here that was "ok" to do. So he's gotta put a disclaimer or not advise things in a public forum to minimize/eliminate avoidable product failures. Just the way it is. Don't think he was attempting to belittle or be condescending.

Glad you are liking them, and sorry about forgetting those adapters at first! The lower noise is mostly because of the switching frequency we use. The drivers have a very low gate charge, which allows us to drive them very fast without horrible switching losses. Above 18k frequency the digital noise drops away. A silent rig is more enjoyable for trail and scale adventures, in my opinion. I love hearing the lugs popping on a rock!





When comparing the the HV500, testing has shown that the SHV500 runs much cooler while performing better. My HV would normally be 120f to 130f after a long session in 100 degree weather, wheras I haven't been able to detect any heat past ambient on the SHV. That is the power of higher voltage and lower KV motors in a servo :twisted: "thumbsup"
 
Order placed. Can't wait to torture this thing!

Many thanks!

i just did this past weekend :) you not going to be disappointed.

Glad you like them! At first I had a lot of doubts on whether folks would take a risk and try something so different. But the servo performance speaks for itself, I couldn't ignore how well my prototypes worked. I had to bring this to market for others to enjoy too, and it is good to see positive feedback "thumbsup"

Those are great connector crimpers, got a pair myself! Cut and crimp new connector good as factory.

John, sweet new servos, love that they don't need BEC! "thumbsup"

Thanks Nate! We have nowhere to go but upwards from here!
 
Just got this servo and I love it. Completely silent. And the idea of direct power and no BEC just makes a lot of sense to me. I have had HH ESCs and motors (brushed and brushless) for years and love them. When the SHV500 came out, I was just waiting for a reason to get it. Five packs in and running strong.
 
Got our Bomber finally built and installed. This servo is fast. Silent and fast. Soldering the lead wires to the battery plug was a bit tricky, but I'm normally up for a challenge. Not having the extra BEC to deal with was worth it.

JRH- The PP540 3500 is fast too. ~Fast~! Love the ability to tune the ESC with the Castle Link though. 50% throttle for kids? No problem.
 
I know it kinda defects the purpose of the servo, but if your running 4s, couldn't you put a bec straight to the servo set at the 16v it can handle?
 
Hallo John
any news about possibility to program the servo ? I mean I need little bit more working angle....

Thanks a lot
Marco
 
Just got this servo and I love it. Completely silent. And the idea of direct power and no BEC just makes a lot of sense to me. I have had HH ESCs and motors (brushed and brushless) for years and love them. When the SHV500 came out, I was just waiting for a reason to get it. Five packs in and running strong.

Got our Bomber finally built and installed. This servo is fast. Silent and fast. Soldering the lead wires to the battery plug was a bit tricky, but I'm normally up for a challenge. Not having the extra BEC to deal with was worth it.

JRH- The PP540 3500 is fast too. ~Fast~! Love the ability to tune the ESC with the Castle Link though. 50% throttle for kids? No problem.

Thanks for the feedback!

Hows progress on making these 4S capable John?

So far the ones with 16v internals have held up rather well. Quite a few people are unofficially running 4s. The current and previous inventory is all 16v power caps. the next batch will be all 25v+. Same for the HV. It will be revamped to run 2s and 3s direct "thumbsup"

I know it kinda defects the purpose of the servo, but if your running 4s, couldn't you put a bec straight to the servo set at the 16v it can handle?

You could.

Hallo John
any news about possibility to program the servo ? I mean I need little bit more working angle....

Thanks a lot
Marco

working with the factory on that still. Previously they weren't willing, they wanted us to write our own code from scratch. I have warmed them up for some trades of labor though, they provide basic code and we are writing a "windows" program to modify the code and inject it back into the servo. It will take some time yet. You could always use a slightly longer servo horn to gain some travel without increasing throw angle.
 
Sounds like I am going to wait for your next batch as I tend to run 2s and 3s on my trail rigs. I assume the SHV500 is going to be the same as the HV in regards to allowing 2s??

Also, any time frame?? My darn Hitec 7950th had to go in for warranty because it stopped working. Would honestly most likely prefer an SHV500 as I hear they have a lot less chatter than this thing and just save the 7950th for a backup or something.
 
two to three months, we are just now starting production on the next batch.

The SHV will be tuned for 3s and 4s. 2s will work, but the rates will be very very slow.
 
two to three months, we are just now starting production on the next batch.

The SHV will be tuned for 3s and 4s. 2s will work, but the rates will be very very slow.

Gotcha, appreciate the quick response there. Looks like I may be going HV than as 2s and 3s are my main uses, unless of course I go nutty with my scx10-ii running the 2700kv stubby. :lmao:
 
Hallo John
any news about possibility to program the servo ? I mean I need little bit more working angle....

Thanks a lot
Marco



Thanks John,
I was already thinking about a longer servo horn!
Thanks!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
 
I think you're misunderstanding me. I'm not saying use crimp connectors...I'm saying buy a servo terminal crimping tool. Cut your cables to length...crimp on new pins, install new connector....done. Without having to open the servo. I've done it this way for quadcopters/drones and it looks clean and professional.

I know your method would get the same result if completed correctly and doesn't require a new tool, but someone inexperienced in soldering could apply too much heat to the board, use an iron thats too hot and fry the board, could burn off the pads, etc etc.

The crimper way, you cut to the desired length...trim wire cover...install new connector and bam done. No risk of ruining the board.

https://www.amazon.com/Professional...&qid=1470093097&sr=8-3&keywords=servo+crimper
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__13446__HobbyKing_JST_SH_Connector_Crimping_Tool.html

13446(2).jpg



Hallo Shinjari
Is the link u posted ref to a good tool? Does it do the job for both male and female connectors? Sorry if the question is stupid but I am not familiar with this tool and I would love to clean and tide up my wiring...
Thanks a lot!



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
 
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