In my experience, all thread is pretty soft as are screws. If you can find a traxxas turnbuckle that falls in the right length range I would use it. I had one that I was trying to bend for some reason and it snapped in half after exerting a lot of force in a vise. No plastic deformation at all and way stronger than I thought.
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Jato Tries to Define Rock Rey
In my experience, all thread is pretty soft as are screws. If you can find a traxxas turnbuckle that falls in the right length range I would use it. I had one that I was trying to bend for some reason and it snapped in half after exerting a lot of force in a vise. No plastic deformation at all and way stronger than I thought.
I agree. But if you put brake line around all-thread it helps to strengthen it significantly. I may try to get a turnbuckle or designated link of I can find something short enough.
What is your eye to eye length you need?
I think it was 38mm.
Well I received the Traxxas 2742X rod ends. I can confirm they are the WRONG SIZE. They are too large. They go right over the stock balls. They are far too larger.
I was going to use the pillow balls that came with the rod ends and then just use screws to hold the ends onto the servo horn and bellcrank, but I discovered they are not standard, metric threads. I didn't want to ruin them so I stopped there.
I was going to use the pillow balls that came with the rod ends and then just use screws to hold the ends onto the servo horn and bellcrank, but I discovered they are not standard, metric threads. I didn't want to ruin them so I stopped there.
This build is just dragging on at this point. If there's something that makes my mind wander and causes me to get bored with a build it's when they drag on. Skankfully (yeah I like to make up my own words, yo) I can see zee light at zee end of the tunnel. Not that light!
I'm using the stock, plastic drag link at this point. I got some #4-40 screws to try to thread into the aluminum servo horn and bellcrank. Apparently the Losi ball studs have #4-40 threads and the major diameter of this thread is .112" which just so happens to be equivalent to just under 3mm (2.8545mm to be exact). This would make sense why the ball studs starting threading into the servo horn and bellcrank, but quickly met resistance.
Since I am the builder not named Bob I have a sneak preview into where this build currently stands. But I will go back in time a few days to catch you guys up.
Here is the chassis assembled and in roller status.
And here's the rolling chassis with cage attached. I am going to have to remove this cage to play with the draglink. If you are guessing the answer is, yes, this cage is going to be a PITA to remove so you can get at the chassis for maintenance. In a brain dead engineering move you can't remove the cage without removing the front shocks and one shock tower. I found a way to do it with just removing the top bolts in the front shocks, spinning the cage sideways and stretching it over the shock hoops. Not idea at all.
Now you may be saying to yourself, "Jato, why are you using themz stock wheels and tars when you have themz sweet TSS Hutchinson wheels wrapped by Pitbull Rock Beasts?" Well, it's because SLW hubs suck! I've hated them from the beginning and now I hate them more than ever. The ID of the SLW hub won't accept the stock, 5mm flanged nut. I went to the hardware store and got 5mm Nyloc nuts without flanges. They fit just fine, but now I can't find a damn 8mm socket to fit inside the SLW hub. I even bought a Losi 4-way wrench and it's too large. I'm honestly at the point of ordering new wheels. I almost bought SSD Rock Racers last night, but they are out of stock.
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I forgot to show that I installed the T-Bone Racing Delrin skid plate for the chassis. It's nice, but not a perfect fit by any means. I decided to not use the two center holes, that were ironically the reason the why the first skid wouldn't fit. Oh well. I have that skid as an extra that I will soon use.
I'm pretending that it's not already chopped up while telling this story to you guys. :mrgreen:
Here is part of the first T-Bone skid hacked up into a front, mini skid. I'm not sure why T-Bone didn't include this little part into their skid.
You may be wondering, "Jato, why does it look like a meth addict going through withdrawal made this part?" Well that's because I don't have the correct tools for fabrication. I don't even have a countersink drill bit. Usually I just use a larger bit to create a countersink, but that didn't work so well in Delrin. Oh-freaking-well. This piece will look worse after the first trail run anyway.
One last issue I have is that the holes in the body don't lineup with the chassis. The side holes are perfect, but the holes in the hood and roof aren't even close. This is how far the hood holes are off. I contacted Horizon. We'll see what they say.
Oh and before I forget, what the heck are these parts for?! The black piece is shown with the light bar, but I don't see how it attaches or what it's for. And the white pieces...WTH?
I'm also confused if I have my light bar installed the correct way or if it's upside down. The manual doesn't match the photos on the box...
I'm using the stock, plastic drag link at this point. I got some #4-40 screws to try to thread into the aluminum servo horn and bellcrank. Apparently the Losi ball studs have #4-40 threads and the major diameter of this thread is .112" which just so happens to be equivalent to just under 3mm (2.8545mm to be exact). This would make sense why the ball studs starting threading into the servo horn and bellcrank, but quickly met resistance.
Since I am the builder not named Bob I have a sneak preview into where this build currently stands. But I will go back in time a few days to catch you guys up.
Here is the chassis assembled and in roller status.
And here's the rolling chassis with cage attached. I am going to have to remove this cage to play with the draglink. If you are guessing the answer is, yes, this cage is going to be a PITA to remove so you can get at the chassis for maintenance. In a brain dead engineering move you can't remove the cage without removing the front shocks and one shock tower. I found a way to do it with just removing the top bolts in the front shocks, spinning the cage sideways and stretching it over the shock hoops. Not idea at all.
Now you may be saying to yourself, "Jato, why are you using themz stock wheels and tars when you have themz sweet TSS Hutchinson wheels wrapped by Pitbull Rock Beasts?" Well, it's because SLW hubs suck! I've hated them from the beginning and now I hate them more than ever. The ID of the SLW hub won't accept the stock, 5mm flanged nut. I went to the hardware store and got 5mm Nyloc nuts without flanges. They fit just fine, but now I can't find a damn 8mm socket to fit inside the SLW hub. I even bought a Losi 4-way wrench and it's too large. I'm honestly at the point of ordering new wheels. I almost bought SSD Rock Racers last night, but they are out of stock.
I forgot to show that I installed the T-Bone Racing Delrin skid plate for the chassis. It's nice, but not a perfect fit by any means. I decided to not use the two center holes, that were ironically the reason the why the first skid wouldn't fit. Oh well. I have that skid as an extra that I will soon use.
I'm pretending that it's not already chopped up while telling this story to you guys. :mrgreen:
Here is part of the first T-Bone skid hacked up into a front, mini skid. I'm not sure why T-Bone didn't include this little part into their skid.
You may be wondering, "Jato, why does it look like a meth addict going through withdrawal made this part?" Well that's because I don't have the correct tools for fabrication. I don't even have a countersink drill bit. Usually I just use a larger bit to create a countersink, but that didn't work so well in Delrin. Oh-freaking-well. This piece will look worse after the first trail run anyway.
One last issue I have is that the holes in the body don't lineup with the chassis. The side holes are perfect, but the holes in the hood and roof aren't even close. This is how far the hood holes are off. I contacted Horizon. We'll see what they say.
Oh and before I forget, what the heck are these parts for?! The black piece is shown with the light bar, but I don't see how it attaches or what it's for. And the white pieces...WTH?
I'm also confused if I have my light bar installed the correct way or if it's upside down. The manual doesn't match the photos on the box...
mewalsh100
I wanna be Dave
I think that’s the same lightbar I picked up for my Baja-Rey. I ended up not using it. If it’s the same one, you’ll find that the led’s are off-set to one side when it’s on. So, when the lightbar is centered on the rig, the lights are off center. Cheesed me off.
On
On
I didn't notice that. And why did you say it because now I'll notice it if it's true?! :evil: :ror:
How does the black piece, shown in the photo in the post above yours, fit onto the light bar?
You know what pisses me off? This kit from Proline! I forgot to mention this earlier in the thread. Why does it piss me off? Because you pay a lot of money, probably too much money, for the Powerstroke shocks and they can't even include mounting provisions! :evil: That's Apple-level greed right there.
I know exactly what you mean. The wheels I’m planning to use currently have 725 SLW’s. Vanquish used to sell a driver that would fit. It still shows up on AMain
https://www.amainhobbies.com/vanquish-products-8mm-modified-nut-driver-vps07100/p577144
but it’s discontinued so no way to buy it. I tried to grind down a cheap 8 mm driver, but gave up when I realized the walls would end up super thin. Plus my tools weren’t great and I was getting metal splinters, Lol! So I’m probably giving in and getting 225’s. Less than awesome.
I think they’re hoping you’ll buy their front bumper, Lol!
https://tboneracing.net/collections/rock-rey/products/37195-tbr-xv4-front-bumper-losi-rock-rey
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Here's a photo of the T-Bone skid plate installed along with my little front skid.
I decided to tear my Rock Rey down to try to determine the size of the threads in the aluminum servo horn and aluminum bellcrank. I also wanted to make a link to replace the stock, plastic drag link. It wasn't a treat to take it apart, but it wasn't nearly as bad as I had expected. It's definitely not something I'd want to do often though.
Here is the stock link next to my link. I used Traxxas rod ends, some aluminum tubing over all-thread, and then I topped it off with some black heat shrink tubing for a clean look.
I can confirm the threads in the aluminum servo horn and aluminum bellcrank, where the ball studs go, are #4-40 threads. They are NOT metric like the Horizon customer service insisted.
I went to reassemble my Rock Rey with my new drag link and noticed the bellcrank was really angled. I took a closer look and saw that the aluminum was pretzeled! :evil: My Rock Rey has literally been ran for maybe 2 minutes for a shakedown run. I never hit full throttle or did anything crazy. I'm seriously baffled by this. Losi typically puts out great aftermarket parts and this thing bent like it was Integy Chinesium. I immediately sent off the photo to Horizon's customer service. I am hoping they replace it. I also hope the replacement is stronger than this one.
Have any of you had issues with your aluminum parts from Losi on your Rock Rey???
So now, again, my Rock Rey is in pieces and awaiting parts. Sigh. Kinda regretting picking this one up at this point. I hope I have better luck out on the trails once I get it running.
I decided to tear my Rock Rey down to try to determine the size of the threads in the aluminum servo horn and aluminum bellcrank. I also wanted to make a link to replace the stock, plastic drag link. It wasn't a treat to take it apart, but it wasn't nearly as bad as I had expected. It's definitely not something I'd want to do often though.
Here is the stock link next to my link. I used Traxxas rod ends, some aluminum tubing over all-thread, and then I topped it off with some black heat shrink tubing for a clean look.
I can confirm the threads in the aluminum servo horn and aluminum bellcrank, where the ball studs go, are #4-40 threads. They are NOT metric like the Horizon customer service insisted.
I went to reassemble my Rock Rey with my new drag link and noticed the bellcrank was really angled. I took a closer look and saw that the aluminum was pretzeled! :evil: My Rock Rey has literally been ran for maybe 2 minutes for a shakedown run. I never hit full throttle or did anything crazy. I'm seriously baffled by this. Losi typically puts out great aftermarket parts and this thing bent like it was Integy Chinesium. I immediately sent off the photo to Horizon's customer service. I am hoping they replace it. I also hope the replacement is stronger than this one.
Have any of you had issues with your aluminum parts from Losi on your Rock Rey???
So now, again, my Rock Rey is in pieces and awaiting parts. Sigh. Kinda regretting picking this one up at this point. I hope I have better luck out on the trails once I get it running.
Tough call. I'm not blown away by the build by any means, but I also haven't had a chance to run it. People that have the Rock Rey seem to love them.
I will warn you though - it's huge. I'd say it's a true 1/8th scale rig.
So these just showed up in the mail yesterday. That's why I continue to go to Horizon. Best customer service in the industry. Let's just hope these parts hold up better than the first aluminum bellcrank that I installed. Not sure why they also sent a new servo horn, but I'm not going to complain. Odd thing is they never even responded to my email. They just sent these. I didn't receive a new body to replace the one where the holes aren't even close to lining up with the chassis so I sent them an email and asked. He admitted to forgetting about it, but put an order in for it right away.
I was very happy to receive the new, aluminum bellcrank from Losi. Very good customer service as I've said before. Here you can see the bent part on the left versus the new one on the right.
New parts on the left and old assembly on the right.
During assembly of the replacement bellcrank I noticed one of the hats would not fit into the right side part of the bellcrank. What I did was to let my impatience get the best of me and against my better judgement I forced the hat into the bellcrank using a screw and nut. It went in easily that way so I thought the hat would free up. It did not. The hat is pressed into the bellcrank and it does not move. Because of this I couldn't tighten that side of the bellcrank down completely or it locked up. So I loosened that screw just enough to the point where it allows everything to move freely. It screws into a nylon lock nut so it should be OK. I have to say I'm very disappointed in the low quality of this Losi bellcrank. The first one bent like Integy Chinesium and this next one wasn't even made properly. Alas, I installed it because I wanted to get this beast back together.
SLW hubs suck for many reasons (as many as there are good reasons IMO) and the recess for the nut just didn't work for the Rock Rey. The axle and nut are much larger than typical 1/10th scale RCs so it just doesn't fit. That coupled with the fact that I hate black wheels, despite the Hutchinsons being so, so sexy, made me get new wheels for this build. SSD 2.2" Rock Racer wheels. I wasn't sure if I'd like the silver rather than raw aluminum finish, but in person they look great. I'm a fan!
The center/inner ring is Delrin which is an interesting choice all by itself and it also has tabs on in to which notches in the front half of the wheel must fit into. I'm curious as to why SSD chose to do this. I'm sure there's a reason.
They sure be sexy though, yo! :mrgreen:
I also went with these wheels because of the open design. I thought they'd look nice and allow you to see the scale brake rotor and disc. I think it looks schmexy!
And here are some shots just because.
New parts on the left and old assembly on the right.
During assembly of the replacement bellcrank I noticed one of the hats would not fit into the right side part of the bellcrank. What I did was to let my impatience get the best of me and against my better judgement I forced the hat into the bellcrank using a screw and nut. It went in easily that way so I thought the hat would free up. It did not. The hat is pressed into the bellcrank and it does not move. Because of this I couldn't tighten that side of the bellcrank down completely or it locked up. So I loosened that screw just enough to the point where it allows everything to move freely. It screws into a nylon lock nut so it should be OK. I have to say I'm very disappointed in the low quality of this Losi bellcrank. The first one bent like Integy Chinesium and this next one wasn't even made properly. Alas, I installed it because I wanted to get this beast back together.
SLW hubs suck for many reasons (as many as there are good reasons IMO) and the recess for the nut just didn't work for the Rock Rey. The axle and nut are much larger than typical 1/10th scale RCs so it just doesn't fit. That coupled with the fact that I hate black wheels, despite the Hutchinsons being so, so sexy, made me get new wheels for this build. SSD 2.2" Rock Racer wheels. I wasn't sure if I'd like the silver rather than raw aluminum finish, but in person they look great. I'm a fan!
The center/inner ring is Delrin which is an interesting choice all by itself and it also has tabs on in to which notches in the front half of the wheel must fit into. I'm curious as to why SSD chose to do this. I'm sure there's a reason.
They sure be sexy though, yo! :mrgreen:
I also went with these wheels because of the open design. I thought they'd look nice and allow you to see the scale brake rotor and disc. I think it looks schmexy!
And here are some shots just because.
alexleblanc
Quarry Creeper
This is motivating me to build my kit soon.
Got a link to the tires?I was very happy to receive the new, aluminum bellcrank from Losi. Very good customer service as I've said before. Here you can see the bent part on the left versus the new one on the right.
New parts on the left and old assembly on the right.
During assembly of the replacement bellcrank I noticed one of the hats would not fit into the right side part of the bellcrank. What I did was to let my impatience get the best of me and against my better judgement I forced the hat into the bellcrank using a screw and nut. It went in easily that way so I thought the hat would free up. It did not. The hat is pressed into the bellcrank and it does not move. Because of this I couldn't tighten that side of the bellcrank down completely or it locked up. So I loosened that screw just enough to the point where it allows everything to move freely. It screws into a nylon lock nut so it should be OK. I have to say I'm very disappointed in the low quality of this Losi bellcrank. The first one bent like Integy Chinesium and this next one wasn't even made properly. Alas, I installed it because I wanted to get this beast back together.
SLW hubs suck for many reasons (as many as there are good reasons IMO) and the recess for the nut just didn't work for the Rock Rey. The axle and nut are much larger than typical 1/10th scale RCs so it just doesn't fit. That coupled with the fact that I hate black wheels, despite the Hutchinsons being so, so sexy, made me get new wheels for this build. SSD 2.2" Rock Racer wheels. I wasn't sure if I'd like the silver rather than raw aluminum finish, but in person they look great. I'm a fan!
The center/inner ring is Delrin which is an interesting choice all by itself and it also has tabs on in to which notches in the front half of the wheel must fit into. I'm curious as to why SSD chose to do this. I'm sure there's a reason.
They sure be sexy though, yo! :mrgreen:
I also went with these wheels because of the open design. I thought they'd look nice and allow you to see the scale brake rotor and disc. I think it looks schmexy!
And here are some shots just because.
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Pitbull Rock Beasts.
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