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(HH) Tech Questions and Customer support thread

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hey bud I just got back from wcc...I seem to have developed a dead spot on my 35t...I have to spin the tires/motor by hand to get it to start.
I took the motor apart and cleaned it but it still has the dead spot.
do I need to find somebody to clean it with a lathe?

or????


thanks8)
 
I have been having some trouble with my new 35turn hand wound. I run a 15t pinion and stock spur gear on my AX10 based comp rig. (Hanks Betty in my sig) 3 cell lipo with a mamba max. The motor works awesome.

The problem I am having is after crawling with the truck with 3 to 4 packs threw it, I start to get some noise at the lower RPM. If I continue driving it it will get to the point that it will only run if I give the truck a gentle push to get it started. (I now know what the noise is and stop when the noise starts.) I thought the timing may be off so I have fiddled with it some and it has not seemed to help. If I clean up the com and brushes it is good for 3to4 packs again, but the problem keeps coming back. Am I expecting to much or have I screwed up the timing or is there something else that I have overlooked?

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JRH, lots of questions.

>Will a 10 turn cobalt work in my 1/10th scale losi crawler, (kv etc) i know that they fit inside.
have to run 4cell lipo right? pinion 10 to 14 tooth? I am concerned about wheel speed.

edit: Just bought one anyway, im impatient, if it doesnt work ill swap arms to the 7 turn. or throw it in the axial.lol

thanks for your time.
 
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hey bud I just got back from wcc...I seem to have developed a dead spot on my 35t...I have to spin the tires/motor by hand to get it to start.
I took the motor apart and cleaned it but it still has the dead spot.
do I need to find somebody to clean it with a lathe?

or????


thanks8)

Getting it cut on a lathe is going to be the best way to treat it. You may also try advancing the timing a bit, see the motor care thread at the top of this subforum.

I have been having some trouble with my new 35turn hand wound. I run a 15t pinion and stock spur gear on my AX10 based comp rig. (Hanks Betty in my sig) 3 cell lipo with a mamba max. The motor works awesome.

The problem I am having is after crawling with the truck with 3 to 4 packs threw it, I start to get some noise at the lower RPM. If I continue driving it it will get to the point that it will only run if I give the truck a gentle push to get it started. (I now know what the noise is and stop when the noise starts.)

The timing may have gotten slightly retarded if it is burning up fast, unless you are running it dusty or dirty situations. A good comm cut will fix you up. You may also try advancing the timing a smidge, like the motor care thread shows.


JRH, lots of questions.

>Will a 10 turn cobalt work in my 1/10th scale losi crawler, (kv etc) i know that they fit inside.
have to run 4cell lipo right? pinion 10 to 14 tooth? I am concerned about wheel speed.

edit: Just bought one anyway, im impatient, if it doesnt work ill swap arms to the 7 turn. or throw it in the axial.lol

thanks for your time.

The ten turn is great for that type of rig. I would run 3s lipo max on the motor.
 
Hi JRH, does your x-caliber 15c 2s batt hold up to twin stock c.c. motors with a rooster ? and how about twin 454 in c.c.on a mamba 25?
Hi again JRH, i am quoting myself to get some ideas on the batt packs you can recommend, i would also like a pack that could move two 35t motors on my hr axles and fit on top of the servo .
 
Hey John...Where you at on your torquemaster esc's?

Production is tomorrow "thumbsup"

Hi again JRH, i am quoting myself to get some ideas on the batt packs you can recommend, i would also like a pack that could move two 35t motors on my hr axles and fit on top of the servo .

The 15c pack would work fine with the stock CC motors, but the 454 pullers may stress it too much depending on how you drive.

Two 35t motors- if you are looking for just plain power then a high rate lipo will be your best bet, 30a continuous minimum. I typically recommend against using my 25c 1300's unless it is short time use. The 1600 packs I now carry have more runtime and just a bit less punch. Otherwise you may need to get a bigger pack and put it on the rear axle or something.
 
hey bud I just got back from wcc...I seem to have developed a dead spot on my 35t...I have to spin the tires/motor by hand to get it to start.
I took the motor apart and cleaned it but it still has the dead spot.
do I need to find somebody to clean it with a lathe?

or????


thanks8)

Getting it cut on a lathe is going to be the best way to treat it. You may also try advancing the timing a bit, see the motor care thread at the top of this subforum.



The timing may have gotten slightly retarded if it is burning up fast, unless you are running it dusty or dirty situations. A good comm cut will fix you up. You may also try advancing the timing a smidge, like the motor care thread shows.

John got my motor cut...put on brand new brushes...and it still has a dead spot...it dont matter what I do...I advanced the timing and retarded it and it still has the same dead spot???


thoughts??
I know these dont last for ever...but dang these motors are only a few months old...:?
 
John got my motor cut...put on brand new brushes...and it still has a dead spot...it dont matter what I do...I advanced the timing and retarded it and it still has the same dead spot???


thoughts??
I know these dont last for ever...but dang these motors are only a few months old...:?

BUMP for JRH.......
 
Sounds like you got a deep burn mark on it. You can send it my way and I can see what can be done to save it or replace it. A deeper cut may be needed.


I am going to see if there is anything that can be done to keep the comm burning from happening so fast. A design change may remedy the situation. I think it may be a combination of the low resistance wind, zero timing, laydown brushes, and maybe high voltage that is causing the fast wear.
 
Sounds like you got a deep burn mark on it. You can send it my way and I can see what can be done to save it or replace it. A deeper cut may be needed.


I am going to see if there is anything that can be done to keep the comm burning from happening so fast. A design change may remedy the situation. I think it may be a combination of the low resistance wind, zero timing, laydown brushes, and maybe high voltage that is causing the fast wear.

ok...what your address?? I tried to look it up on your site but no go....

thanks for your help on this.8)
 
Dead Cells?

Greetings John.

I purchased 3 of your 1300 3S Lipo packs (order ID#3245) on 3.19.09

I've been using one with my recently completed Eclipse build, and I soldered up Deans on the other 2 last night.

Put them on my Triton 2 this morning to charge...the first one peaked out with no issue, but with the second, the Triton is reading no battery when connected and the Blinky is reading it as a single cell...no initial 3 count of LED's when I plug in as on the other 2 packs.

I tried lowering the mAH setting on my charger, but it still detected no battery.

Suggestions?

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Lipo Batteries

Sir,

Just wondering when will the Holmes Hobbies 25C 1300 mah Lipo, 3 cell, 11.1v, be available?

Thanks
 
jrh, the to 10t cobalt works great, but....

did one comp (two courses) and heard a funny noise coming from crawler, upon further investigation i found that the armature is spinning inside of the end bearing on the wire side of the motor, at low and high rpm's it spins freely inside of the bearing, literally grinding on the innermost ring of the bearing, causing alot of heat buildup fast, i tried to lubricate and it hasnt helped....
in the comp the dx3s said it never got above 150*f...
what can i do to fix this? do i need to send to you? is the arm or the bearing at fault? smaller bearing? thanks for your time.
 
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