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Vanquish VRD - Reducing Wheel Base

There's no "official" Discord, but there are a few RC related Discords with some active crawlers on them. There's more of a discussion here:
 
Doh, forgot to mention I grew up on the NE side of metro Cincinnati in the Milford/Loveland sort of area. Moved long before I got into tiny trucks but sure thing there has to be lots of places to go check out. Used to ride bikes a lot a Cesar's Creek SP. There were also some trails at Landon Deerfield park that had a bunch of rocky creek areas.

Of course all my info is super outdated as I last visited any of that over 15 years ago before my parents retired and moved out of the area. By now everything is probably super developed with lots of rules.
Yah I'm about 20mins from Ceasers Creek. Defintely some great areas there to try out some crawling. Down by the Gorge, theres quite a few trails in that area.
 
Welcome to the forum. I can't give you any info on the Discord stuff but this forum has people that can knowledgeably answer just about any question and you just need a photo hosting site (imgur or other freebies work well enugh) or buy a membership to post photos here. After being here for a bit you will learn who does what and has the most credibility to answer different types of questions. For example if you get real into comps there are a couple guys who are neck deep in that world, Col_Sanders seems to be one of those.

Just to throw out an idea on your Stance wheelbase, since the truck has the servo on the front axle, could you not shorten the front links a bit since you do not have to worry about a panhard bar or resultant bumpsteer from messing with the front link length? This would shift the weight slightly forward which is desired in more competition crawling vehicles, up to a point at least, and even in a capable trail rig.

Shortening the wheelbase will help with breakover but hurt climbing. Shortening the front and the weight moving forward a bit could counter some of the climbing loss from the shorter wheelbase.

I don't have a Stance to know if there are other clearance issues that would arise though. Shortening either end could result in needing to shorten your driveshaft or adjust upper shock mounting locations. Unlikely with small adjustments but something to be aware of.

Also, I'd suggest waiting until you have stuff in front of you before ordering stuff to make adjustments if at all possible. It can save you some money and aggravation and a drawer full of parts that aren't quite right. But if your patience is like mine then you will have a drawer full of not quite right parts and a hope to find a use for them in the future.
Thanks for the welcoming. I appreciate your feedback. Talking to tech support at Vanquish, it sounds like the driveshaft wont be affected by the small changes from what I gathered. He advised the same thing to wait until the item arrives and check but that shortening the small amount I'm going for will not affect driveshaft. So, I'll wait a bit and see what Friday brings me. :) I'm excited to get started in this. I enjoy tinkering as well, so without a doubt I will have a drawer full of parts just like I do with my RC Jets. I think i have 63 jets now and well, lets hope I don't get to carried away with the trucks. I hope to have just 2 trucks at the max. (crossing fingers)
 
I just wanted to say that it is really great to have this experience as a noob here. I've had past hobbies in which people are not as helpful, there is a lot of sarcasm and unwanted replies that are more toward just being rude which turns people away from the hobby. I have not seen that much when it comes to the RC Hobby. Don't get me wrong there's always a few out there that like to do their stabbing. When I started flying, I realized that everyone I encountered in the RC Jets was amazing and always there to lend a hand and help each other out and that's what makes this hobby very unique. I'm seeing the same with the RC Trucks now with people giving advice and tips and look forward to joining a club or group in the near future. Without a doubt once I get some experience in this, I will also pass it forward to the next person. That's what keeps this hobby alive and exciting. I appreciate all of you for your feedback.
 
Good luck on keeping the fleet small. That was my thought as well but never works with me. Up to about eight 1:10 scale vehicles plus random other scales in about 3 years of current interest.

I own about 40 bicycles.

Had 7 motorcycles in my garage at one point. Maybe 2 of which ran.

Thankfully I have never had enough room for more than one 1:1 project cars but there's one of those in my garage and I've moved 4 times since getting it and hauled it around with me (including the last move from California to Colorado). Own my house again now and have no desire to move again. Ever.

Back on topic...

The other trick I've done with link length is sometimes the hole in the rod end is deeper than the threaded portion of the link. So I've been able to cut the rod end down a couple mm and get the link threaded further into the end. So you could effectively shorten a link about 4mm (2mm each end). Depends on the rod end and link.

And vice versa, you could just make the link a bit longer by not threading down to the shoulder fully or using a spacer at each end.

There's not much rotational force on the links to cause them to come unthreaded once installed. At least in my experience. As long as your ball ends aren't seized up.

So you have some room to play therefore don't stress too much about getting the exact perfect length.

Also, my feeling is rear high clearance links make more difference than front high clearance links. But again, just my experience.
 
Good luck on keeping the fleet small. That was my thought as well but never works with me. Up to about eight 1:10 scale vehicles plus random other scales in about 3 years of current interest.

I own about 40 bicycles.

Had 7 motorcycles in my garage at one point. Maybe 2 of which ran.

Thankfully I have never had enough room for more than one 1:1 project cars but there's one of those in my garage and I've moved 4 times since getting it and hauled it around with me (including the last move from California to Colorado). Own my house again now and have no desire to move again. Ever.

Back on topic...

The other trick I've done with link length is sometimes the hole in the rod end is deeper than the threaded portion of the link. So I've been able to cut the rod end down a couple mm and get the link threaded further into the end. So you could effectively shorten a link about 4mm (2mm each end). Depends on the rod end and link.

And vice versa, you could just make the link a bit longer by not threading down to the shoulder fully or using a spacer at each end.

There's not much rotational force on the links to cause them to come unthreaded once installed. At least in my experience. As long as your ball ends aren't seized up.

So you have some room to play therefore don't stress too much about getting the exact perfect length.

Also, my feeling is rear high clearance links make more difference than front high clearance links. But again, just my experience.
Well the rod is pretty thin and I've seen so many easily damage them, that I'm going to order the thicker Titanium version just to have for when the stock ones fail so I'm not left without a vehicle when it does happen, because it is not a matter of IF but a matter of WHEN. But I'll wait to see what length I ended up needing. Were talking a small reduction and I may be able to get away with it without shortening length. Just have to wait until I get the body and the RTR in.
 
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