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Yeti Jr. upgrades
- Thread starter Lavaheadache
- Start date
84yoda
I wanna be Dave
Give an update how those foams fit and your thoughts about how they handle, more/less roll overs, traction, ect. Im looking to get same tires/foams. Thanks!
It's pretty much winter time up here in Montréal and it's dark outside at 5pm so my "play" time is limited.
I'll post some pictures while building them and try to get some tests done before the heavy snow fall.
Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk
The tires are super soft and the Rubber is as High end as it gets.
The stock rc4wd foams are firm and fill the tire completly. They are still squishy on the side walls.
The crawler innovation foams are extra hard, single stage. They have no squishiness on the side walls, pretty much wont roll at all.
They dont fill the tires there seems to be about 1/8 of an inch, maybe more, of free space.
Im not an expert but i guess the CI foams would have more contact with the road so more traction and less roll over due to the hard closed cell design.
The stock foams would look bigger and maybe crawl better being softer.
I will add pictures when I mount the beadlocks.
Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk
Edit :
Found out that you need a 2mm socket driver for the scale bolts on the hub.
I used an M2.6 screw with a left over aluminium link, the head makes a great scale driver.
I added pictures also.
The stock rc4wd foams are firm and fill the tire completly. They are still squishy on the side walls.
The crawler innovation foams are extra hard, single stage. They have no squishiness on the side walls, pretty much wont roll at all.
They dont fill the tires there seems to be about 1/8 of an inch, maybe more, of free space.
Im not an expert but i guess the CI foams would have more contact with the road so more traction and less roll over due to the hard closed cell design.
The stock foams would look bigger and maybe crawl better being softer.
I will add pictures when I mount the beadlocks.
Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk
Edit :
Found out that you need a 2mm socket driver for the scale bolts on the hub.
I used an M2.6 screw with a left over aluminium link, the head makes a great scale driver.
I added pictures also.
Last edited:
With the aluminium parts and wheels, it's getting quite heavy for the stock motor.
So lets talk about the last upgrade on this rig : the motor...
I have a Traxxas 18T 380 brushed motor.
-it's still brushed so would it make a difference?
I know most people use the mamba micro X and 0808 4-pole brushless motor
-That combo is close to 200$ in Canada so yeah...
Last option is this hobbywing 16BL30 esc with a 2438 2-pole brushless motor.
-it looks interesting
-it's 50$
Can someone with more experience give me some input on all 3 options?
Is there a 4th option I didnt see?
Thx
Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk
So lets talk about the last upgrade on this rig : the motor...
I have a Traxxas 18T 380 brushed motor.
-it's still brushed so would it make a difference?
I know most people use the mamba micro X and 0808 4-pole brushless motor
-That combo is close to 200$ in Canada so yeah...
Last option is this hobbywing 16BL30 esc with a 2438 2-pole brushless motor.
-it looks interesting
-it's 50$
Can someone with more experience give me some input on all 3 options?
Is there a 4th option I didnt see?
Thx
Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk
Brake Weight
I wanna be Dave
Any motor that will fit. I ended up with a 24xx Banggood brushless combo much like that HobbyWing combo but for less $$. I at first used a small HobbyWing brushed ESC and it’s good for 2-3s. It since got moved to another rig and the cheap BL combo installed. The problem with the brushless cans are the kV. They’re all high, haul ass, and cog at slow speeds for the cheap sensorless.
The motor shaft size is also a problem, too. That’s why I went with the 24xx motor. Basically anything that fits the old Losi Mini will work.
Any kV between 3000-4000. The HobbyWing brushed ESC. Any Losi Mini combos.
The motor shaft size is also a problem, too. That’s why I went with the 24xx motor. Basically anything that fits the old Losi Mini will work.
Any kV between 3000-4000. The HobbyWing brushed ESC. Any Losi Mini combos.
svt923
I wanna be Dave
I went with one of the cheap ebay combos with a 3600kv 2838 motor. That size motor is probably the biggest that will fit without major modifications (slight filing of the motor can and/or center bearing block) and 3600kv on 2S will give about the same top end as the stock brushed motor on 3S which I think is perfect for these. A 4 pole motor that size has no problems pushing around a Yeti Jr and barely gets warm doing it. You will need a 48P pinion for a 1/8 inch shaft but Trinity and Robinson Racing make them in 10T to keep the stock gearing.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/2838-3600KV-4P-Sensorless-Brushless-Motor-35A-ESC-fr-1-14-1-16-1-18-RC-Car-S0H7-/112020018501?hash=item1a14e9d545
If you get the cheap ebay system, spend the extra few dollars and get the programming card too. There is no way to make adjustments without it.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/LED-Program-Card-for-25-35-45-60-80-120A-ESC-Motor-Set-/311825636562?hash=item489a419cd2
https://www.ebay.com/itm/2838-3600KV-4P-Sensorless-Brushless-Motor-35A-ESC-fr-1-14-1-16-1-18-RC-Car-S0H7-/112020018501?hash=item1a14e9d545
If you get the cheap ebay system, spend the extra few dollars and get the programming card too. There is no way to make adjustments without it.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/LED-Program-Card-for-25-35-45-60-80-120A-ESC-Motor-Set-/311825636562?hash=item489a419cd2
Last edited:
Brake Weight
I wanna be Dave
Same thing I got through Banggood and about the same price. The drag brake is crap, but you can set that up through the Tx.
84yoda
I wanna be Dave
All I know is the castle mirco x setup and 4100kv motor with 3s is way to fast and powerful for it. Lol. But damn its so much fun, till it breaks.
Lavaheadache
Quarry Creeper
your throttle trigger is proportional, right? lol......
Newman_diver
Newbie
Yeah, I am running this setup in my Sons Jr. and I have it programmed to 60% power. Even with it throttled back i've still replaced all the axles and driveshafts.
84yoda
I wanna be Dave
I have the throttle punch set to 70% and its still nuts, lol.
I picked up CI 1.55" DW foams for stock tires to test and they fit perfect in them. Made the tires a hair taller too. It should help a ton with ballooning and cornering/rolling over.
84yoda
I wanna be Dave
Ya I have the whole drivetrain bulletproofed, but the only parts to break are front plastic spiders/outputs and spur. Im tempted to put a gpm spool up front to ditch the last plastic parts but it already sucks at turning.
84yoda
I wanna be Dave
I thought that was brought up in the beginning that they wouldn't work? It would be sweet if they did though.
84yoda
I wanna be Dave
Those output cups look like they need to be cut down. But for $8 bucks, I'll give it a try. Hopefully my lhs has those latrax gears in stock.
Newman_diver
Newbie
I am having an issue since I installed the GPM locker in the rear. The front tires spin when no load is on them but as soon as I apply any friction, they stop spinning. Can anyone give me an idea of what may be wrong?
Something is binding in the gears.
I would reopen the whole driveline and check the gears, bearings and shafts.
Grab an aluminium driveshaft too, the plastic won't survive long with the locker.
Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk
I would reopen the whole driveline and check the gears, bearings and shafts.
Grab an aluminium driveshaft too, the plastic won't survive long with the locker.
Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk
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