b00st3d
Newbie
any problems with shock oil seeping out with the shocks inverted?
-
Welcome to RCCrawler Forums.
It looks like you're enjoying RCCrawler's Forums but haven't created an account yet. Why not take a minute to register for your own free account now? As a member you get free access to all of our forums and posts plus the ability to post your own messages, communicate directly with other members, and much more. Register now!
Already a member? Login at the top of this page to stop seeing this message.
Venom trick and tips FAQ thread!
- Thread starter 666
- Start date
any problems with shock oil seeping out with the shocks inverted?
iminsanity1
Newbie
Venom Crawler Stage 2 Suspension HELP
Note: These modifications can be performed during the build of your venom crawler or added at a later date. These are very basic directions, and will not cover every step of the build because of this reason. We should also note, the stock battery tray is removed and discarded. A small Nimh pack or lipo battery will be required.
The First Thing We Noticed Was out of the box, the creeper seemed A Bit Tall and Had Quite A Bit of Torque Twist and rear steer. This is largely contributed to the shorter upper links and the horizontal plane of the links at the factory ride height.
Follow along as we convert an already great crawler into a climbing machine for very little money.
The CKRC Stg 2 venom kit includes:
1 pair of solf silver springs
1 pair of hard gray springs
5 wheel weights
4- 70mm upper links
1-replacement upper chassis support
4-6mm spacers
4-19mm spacers
1 triangulated esc plate
and all necessary hardware.
Step 1: Wheel Weights:
Our kit includes 5 wheel weights. Each stick weights 3 oz each. You will need to install 2 and a half sticks (2.5) per front wheel . To do this, break off (6) 1/4 oz pieces and install them in between the wheel weight mounting bosses on the venom wheel (picture A). Once you have completed that, Wrap the rest of the wheel weights on the rims. Only 2.5 sticks per wheel. (Picture B)
Step 2: Foam cutting.
We would suggest a better tire such as a hot bodies rover or ??? for the best performance. If you decide to stick with the stock tires, there are a few tricks you can do to get better performance from them, as well as other tires. We would suggest narrowing the stock foams by 1/2" each. Then take a fresh razor blade and do 1/2 star cuts to lower the height of the foam. These simple mods will ensure more traction surface. (Picture C)
Step 3: Drivetrain & Steering:
To start we would suggest our CKRC upgraded drive shaft kit to replace the weak factory drive shafts. The stock shafts dont hold up well in a stock rig much less a modified one that has better traction. If you decide to do this upgrade, it is a bolt on hop up.
3A: Remove the shocks, Upper links, and battery tray from the vehicle. Be sure to save all the hardware you remove, you will be re using it later.
3B: The rear knuckles can be flipped to keep them away from the rocks. First simply remove the rear axle skid plate/ rock grabber. Then re install the 2 lower housings screws with our 3 mm nuts provided.
3C: Next Flip the knuckle the opposite direction. Once you have done this you can re install the rear lockout links into the 2 upper axle housing holes. One side of the lockouts will now go to the top of the knuckle ears instead of between the 2 ears. You will need the (2) 3x18mm screws and nuts that held your shocks to the axle for both ends. This may sound confusing, but (picture D & E) will clarify. Make sure to adjust the toe in to your preferred setting. We run 0 degrees.
Step 4: Chassis
Remove the 2 aluminum chassis plates from the vehicle. You are going to be drilling the new upper link mounting holes. Each hole needs to be drilled 5mm more towards the center of the chassis. As you will see, the holes also need to be moved up just a bit. The best way to do this is mark and drill one hole in the chassis and you can flip and rotate it on the other half to get the holes all matched perfectly. (Picture F)
4A: Re install the chassis side plates. You will not be re installing the factory battery tray. The next step is remove or replace your stock upper links with our CKRC 70mm upper links. (picture G) Install the links to the car with the factory hardware.
Step 5: Shocks
With the shocks removed from the car. Disassemble the shocks. You are going to be installing the 19mm spacers that we provided with the kit. Simply remove the shock shaft and internal spring from the shock body. You will be discarding the internal red washer and internal spring. (picture H)
5A: (Picture I) Slide the 19mm spacer over the shock shaft and then install the shaft back into the shock body. NOTE; On occasion the 19mm spacers provided will need to be drilled slightly larger to fit over the shock shaft. (19mm spacer not shown)
5B: Assemble the shocks with new shock oil. You will also be discarding the factory external springs and replacing them with the ones provided in the kit. The silver springs are for the front shocks, the grays are for the rear. (picture J)
Step 6: link and shock mounting.
Next remove the lower links from the axle housing. We are going to be relocating where the shocks and the links mount to the axles. Locate the 4 supplied 3x30mm screws. These are the new lower link/shock screws. Simply install the link and shock as seen in picture K. You will also need to use the 6mm spacers that were removed from the old upper shock mounts. This needs to be done to all 4 corners.
6B: The top of the shocks are going to now be installed in the aluminum chassis holes. We have provided (4) 6mm spacers and (4) 3x25mm screws for this. You are also going to be reusing the old suspension upper link in the rear and the supplied plastic U-brace in the front betwwen the shocks. These will be used for spacing between each chassis plate. (picture L)
Step 7: Finish
That's just about it. Install the supplied triangulated esc plate with some zip ties and mount your electronics. On our Venom shop rig, the CKRC 11.1v lipo was mounted on the triangulated plate up front and we installed the electronics next to the transmission.
GO CRAWLING!
Note: These modifications can be performed during the build of your venom crawler or added at a later date. These are very basic directions, and will not cover every step of the build because of this reason. We should also note, the stock battery tray is removed and discarded. A small Nimh pack or lipo battery will be required.
The First Thing We Noticed Was out of the box, the creeper seemed A Bit Tall and Had Quite A Bit of Torque Twist and rear steer. This is largely contributed to the shorter upper links and the horizontal plane of the links at the factory ride height.
Follow along as we convert an already great crawler into a climbing machine for very little money.
The CKRC Stg 2 venom kit includes:
1 pair of solf silver springs
1 pair of hard gray springs
5 wheel weights
4- 70mm upper links
1-replacement upper chassis support
4-6mm spacers
4-19mm spacers
1 triangulated esc plate
and all necessary hardware.
Step 1: Wheel Weights:
Our kit includes 5 wheel weights. Each stick weights 3 oz each. You will need to install 2 and a half sticks (2.5) per front wheel . To do this, break off (6) 1/4 oz pieces and install them in between the wheel weight mounting bosses on the venom wheel (picture A). Once you have completed that, Wrap the rest of the wheel weights on the rims. Only 2.5 sticks per wheel. (Picture B)
Step 2: Foam cutting.
We would suggest a better tire such as a hot bodies rover or ??? for the best performance. If you decide to stick with the stock tires, there are a few tricks you can do to get better performance from them, as well as other tires. We would suggest narrowing the stock foams by 1/2" each. Then take a fresh razor blade and do 1/2 star cuts to lower the height of the foam. These simple mods will ensure more traction surface. (Picture C)
Step 3: Drivetrain & Steering:
To start we would suggest our CKRC upgraded drive shaft kit to replace the weak factory drive shafts. The stock shafts dont hold up well in a stock rig much less a modified one that has better traction. If you decide to do this upgrade, it is a bolt on hop up.
3A: Remove the shocks, Upper links, and battery tray from the vehicle. Be sure to save all the hardware you remove, you will be re using it later.
3B: The rear knuckles can be flipped to keep them away from the rocks. First simply remove the rear axle skid plate/ rock grabber. Then re install the 2 lower housings screws with our 3 mm nuts provided.
3C: Next Flip the knuckle the opposite direction. Once you have done this you can re install the rear lockout links into the 2 upper axle housing holes. One side of the lockouts will now go to the top of the knuckle ears instead of between the 2 ears. You will need the (2) 3x18mm screws and nuts that held your shocks to the axle for both ends. This may sound confusing, but (picture D & E) will clarify. Make sure to adjust the toe in to your preferred setting. We run 0 degrees.
Step 4: Chassis
Remove the 2 aluminum chassis plates from the vehicle. You are going to be drilling the new upper link mounting holes. Each hole needs to be drilled 5mm more towards the center of the chassis. As you will see, the holes also need to be moved up just a bit. The best way to do this is mark and drill one hole in the chassis and you can flip and rotate it on the other half to get the holes all matched perfectly. (Picture F)
4A: Re install the chassis side plates. You will not be re installing the factory battery tray. The next step is remove or replace your stock upper links with our CKRC 70mm upper links. (picture G) Install the links to the car with the factory hardware.
Step 5: Shocks
With the shocks removed from the car. Disassemble the shocks. You are going to be installing the 19mm spacers that we provided with the kit. Simply remove the shock shaft and internal spring from the shock body. You will be discarding the internal red washer and internal spring. (picture H)
5A: (Picture I) Slide the 19mm spacer over the shock shaft and then install the shaft back into the shock body. NOTE; On occasion the 19mm spacers provided will need to be drilled slightly larger to fit over the shock shaft. (19mm spacer not shown)
5B: Assemble the shocks with new shock oil. You will also be discarding the factory external springs and replacing them with the ones provided in the kit. The silver springs are for the front shocks, the grays are for the rear. (picture J)
Step 6: link and shock mounting.
Next remove the lower links from the axle housing. We are going to be relocating where the shocks and the links mount to the axles. Locate the 4 supplied 3x30mm screws. These are the new lower link/shock screws. Simply install the link and shock as seen in picture K. You will also need to use the 6mm spacers that were removed from the old upper shock mounts. This needs to be done to all 4 corners.
6B: The top of the shocks are going to now be installed in the aluminum chassis holes. We have provided (4) 6mm spacers and (4) 3x25mm screws for this. You are also going to be reusing the old suspension upper link in the rear and the supplied plastic U-brace in the front betwwen the shocks. These will be used for spacing between each chassis plate. (picture L)
Step 7: Finish
That's just about it. Install the supplied triangulated esc plate with some zip ties and mount your electronics. On our Venom shop rig, the CKRC 11.1v lipo was mounted on the triangulated plate up front and we installed the electronics next to the transmission.
GO CRAWLING!
iminsanity1
Newbie
i have not had any leaking.
Has anybody else noticed that the picture direct from CKRC shows the stage 2 upgrade with top links between the front and rear upper shock mounts? NOT POSSIBLE! The motor gets in the way! Anybody got a quick and EASY solution?
kurtus
RCC Addict
These are the u braces that are included in the ckrc kits, aluminum ones are available as well.
http://www.tcscrawlers.com/Axial-Racing-Radio-Transmission-Mounting-Set-AX80007-p-16826.html
http://www.tcscrawlers.com/Axial-Racing-Radio-Transmission-Mounting-Set-AX80007-p-16826.html
pero824
Newbie
sorry newbie rattles cage again
I have disected my venom crawler I went with a novack goat. used the after market ckrc. part dig unit lock out up front three dollar # 2 suspension kit used some parts. again my first build I have the three chanel futaba . well here it comes what short of a baterry is every one using. this is the first forum I have found that has actuall venom users. please help i been through alot of the forums due to reading the newbie tongue lashing i read when i started reading .i will get pictures you guys have some sweet rides. they call me pero or carlos
I have disected my venom crawler I went with a novack goat. used the after market ckrc. part dig unit lock out up front three dollar # 2 suspension kit used some parts. again my first build I have the three chanel futaba . well here it comes what short of a baterry is every one using. this is the first forum I have found that has actuall venom users. please help i been through alot of the forums due to reading the newbie tongue lashing i read when i started reading .i will get pictures you guys have some sweet rides. they call me pero or carlos
pero824
Newbie
scotty_the_savage
Newbie
s there any forums that am mssng ahout ths rg. just plcked mlne up about a week ago. seen the release date was just over a year ago and not many mods for lt. and l would lllke to see more on the post above about the upgrade. maybe some more detal
Thanks pero "thumbsup"
icemancrawler
Quarry Creeper
How can I get a tighter turning radius with my venom without paying to much or just with what i have laying around?
Have you adjusted the epa on your radio? The creeper has a great turning radius compared to most comparable crawlers. I set mine so my tires barly rub my lower links. If that's still not enough, you could get a dig unit which will allow you to turn on a dime, or even try 4ws (I prefer the dig though).
icemancrawler
Quarry Creeper
i got a little more steering by putting a longer servo horn on. Any tips on setting up the epa? Also is it possible to run 40 series tires on a venom or would that be wishfull thinking?
Last edited:
icemancrawler
Quarry Creeper
CreeperJay
Newbie
Here is something I came up with for protecting the speed control and receiver. Hope you guys like it.
Abavuso
RCC Addict
Free wheel weights and simple to do.
Really Cheep to Free Wheel Weights---
I was at my local hobby shop today trying to find wheel weights when I was given this sugestion. To to your local auto shop(I went to Pep Boys) Ask them to buy a couple of 3oz sticky wheel weights(They gave me 4 3oz stick for free). Then figure out how much weight you want in each wheel and stick them on. I didn't want to take the wheels apare so I put them in the back side of the rim. They fit perfect. 4oz in the front and 2oz in the rear. I let you know how that works after my run tomarrow. You coule proble stuff as much at 6oz in each wheel if you so desire.
Check it out.
Really Cheep to Free Wheel Weights---
I was at my local hobby shop today trying to find wheel weights when I was given this sugestion. To to your local auto shop(I went to Pep Boys) Ask them to buy a couple of 3oz sticky wheel weights(They gave me 4 3oz stick for free). Then figure out how much weight you want in each wheel and stick them on. I didn't want to take the wheels apare so I put them in the back side of the rim. They fit perfect. 4oz in the front and 2oz in the rear. I let you know how that works after my run tomarrow. You coule proble stuff as much at 6oz in each wheel if you so desire.
Check it out.
Abavuso
RCC Addict
Free wheel weights and simple to do.
I found a good way to do cheep wheel weights. Go to your local Pep Boys or auto shop and ask them for stick wheel weight for ballencing auto tires. They come in 3oz sticks seperatable to 1/4oz tabs. I got mine for free. You can either put them inside the tire if you feel like taking the tire apart or you can do what I did. I put 4oz in the front and 2 oz in the back tires. I'll let you know who it work after I run tomarrow.
I found a good way to do cheep wheel weights. Go to your local Pep Boys or auto shop and ask them for stick wheel weight for ballencing auto tires. They come in 3oz sticks seperatable to 1/4oz tabs. I got mine for free. You can either put them inside the tire if you feel like taking the tire apart or you can do what I did. I put 4oz in the front and 2 oz in the back tires. I'll let you know who it work after I run tomarrow.
Last edited:
Nice! That is lexan correct? What did you use to bend it?
Abavuso
RCC Addict
You could always chop the batery tray and use the two inner mounts for suport and leave the two outer wholes for just the shocks.
CreeperJay
Newbie
Similar threads
