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Venom trick and tips FAQ thread!

Ok got kind of a dumb question and I prolly know the answer already but here goes (and yes i've done some searching but my head is starting to spin from all the links). Would putting the anti-roll springs back in help with the TT? I've extended my upper links but it almost seems worse unless i did it wrong. I'll post pics of the way it sits now soon.
 
Ok got kind of a dumb question and I prolly know the answer already but here goes (and yes i've done some searching but my head is starting to spin from all the links). Would putting the anti-roll springs back in help with the TT? I've extended my upper links but it almost seems worse unless i did it wrong. I'll post pics of the way it sits now soon.

All you have to do is change the left rear inner spring stock position to the other side of the piston.
As in stock position, that inner spring pulls shock shaft inwards, but if you assemble the shock other way around like putting the piston and shaft first and the spring after, then it will push the shock shaft outside and reduces TT.
Tested it out before i tried that droop suspension and it helped a LOT.
 
Torque Twist is a link geometry issue...

Ok got kind of a dumb question and I prolly know the answer already but here goes (and yes i've done some searching but my head is starting to spin from all the links). Would putting the anti-roll springs back in help with the TT? I've extended my upper links but it almost seems worse unless i did it wrong. I'll post pics of the way it sits now soon.

Changing your springs for TT problems is like putting a bandaid on a leaking DAM....

read this thread----> http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/showthread.php?t=253819
 
My son doesnt break the pins in his axle shafts,they just seem to come out no matter what we try.

So I TIG welded the pins in.Didint use any rod,just fused the outer to the pin.
fabstuff004.jpg
 
So I recently bought a set of drive shafts for a Gmade R1 and when I got them in the mail and compared them to my current TRAXXAS half shafts there was no contest. the R1 shafts are beefier but a little to long so after chopping off a 1/4'' they are on and insanely strong I'll post pics of it soon
 
I bought them original for the u-joints but they are too big I'm only bashing with these till i can get the traxxas steel yokes
 
I for one threw my Traxxas shafts in the trash after twisting them off the metal yokes every time the rig bounced. I still use stock shafts in my creeper. The only reason I had the traxxas shafts was cause every one said it was a must do, it was not. I've comped mine numerous times and hit my rocks as much as time will allow. I have never twisted, broken or even lost a pin with the stock ones.
 
My son doesnt break the pins in his axle shafts,they just seem to come out no matter what we try.

So I TIG welded the pins in.Didint use any rod,just fused the outer to the pin.
fabstuff004.jpg

Might try this. The hole in the shaft, Venom should have done this on the output shafts and on the pinion gears. I had one hell of a time with my drive shafts this weekend. There is just enough play on the pinion gear and the collar for the shaft to loosen it up and come off, even with lock tight on the set screw. I lost 2 half shafts because of this. I drilled a hole in both output shafts on my trans but the pinion gears were too hard. My cobalt drill bit did nothing one them.
 
I know they are 70mm, I already look at the list. The 70mm are including the plastics end? That is my guess , i just want to make sure, I don't see any others shafts in the website.
 
i just got my creeper a couple days and love it, wanting to upgrade it and make it better. i see problems of the crawler getting stuck on the skid plates and then also the diff locks, i will have them locked and they will get in a tough sitution and unlock. how do i fix these problems and also, why do i see people mounting there shocks lower on the chassis and not on the battery box?
 
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