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Venom trick and tips FAQ thread!

i just got my creeper a couple days and love it, wanting to upgrade it and make it better. i see problems of the crawler getting stuck on the skid plates and then also the diff locks, i will have them locked and they will get in a tough sitution and unlock. how do i fix these problems and also, why do i see people mounting there shocks lower on the chassis and not on the battery box?

You'll find many more answers HERE than in the older tips thread....

Post #2...tech tip #10 deals with the diffs and lockers
 
got bored with the tread design of the factory ridgelines, and how non-traction like they were,
and me+bored=creativity so heres what happened,

**warning, please do not attempt if your not sure what your doing,
or you do not have the right tools, a couple wrong cuts and your out a set of tires**

trimmed all the short lugs off, with these precision cutters,

w12646-1.jpg


very very very time consuming, 15-20min/tire but they work great
now, the long lugs i left act like little fingers, they grip incredibly well on any surface,

IMAG0512.jpg


IMAG0513.jpg


IMAG0515.jpg


IMAG0516.jpg
 
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Re: Venom Crawler Stage 2 Suspension HELP

I bought the CKRC upgraded drive shaft kit but have a question

How to get the metal links in to the ends of the plastic drive shafts in the kit with out braking any thing.
 
Re: Venom Crawler Stage 2 Suspension HELP

I bought the CKRC upgraded drive shaft kit but have a question

How to get the metal links in to the ends of the plastic drive shafts in the kit with out braking any thing.

You have to use the edge of a glass or metal table and a screwdriver. There are other ways but this works quick and easy.
Start with one pin in the hole and use the screwdriver shank to hold it in place, then push it downward on the table.

They wont break it will pop in.
 
yes, they come with pin collars to go around the cvds' in the axles and also have pin retainers that go over the pins in the driveshaft also "thumbsup"
 
will the ckrc stage 2 kit bolt onto a stock safari? for some reason i look at mine theen at the creeper build and see some big differences.
 
this is not the place for this question, start a thread please.

A mod needs to go through and clean this up........
 
Instead of buying lockers or gluing the diff switch, I've found that you could back the small screw out a little on the left of the locking switch. The head of the screw will keep the diff from sliding and coming unlocked. So it'll save you a few bucks instead of buying a locker and a headache or two when trying to remove the bonding agent to replace parts.
 
Anyone else have low wheel speed, and a weird jitter in the rear axle? Should I get a 35t motor to replace my 55t or what? Any suggestions? Or just swap the transmission out?
 
Anyone else have low wheel speed, and a weird jitter in the rear axle? Should I get a 35t motor to replace my 55t or what? Any suggestions? Or just swap the transmission out?

Sorry about the double post but I didn't see it go up on the thread.

If you have a "weird jitter" in the rear axle Id say you might have a missing tooth on the pinion gear, the ring gear or the spider gears in the rear differential. Id tear it apart and check it out.
 
Anyone else have low wheel speed, and a weird jitter in the rear axle? Should I get a 35t motor to replace my 55t or what? Any suggestions? Or just swap the transmission out?

Dont get a 35t motor, your run time and torque will suck, trust me, mine was like that when i bought it second hand. A great combo is 55t with a 20 tooth pinion, you get a good run time, great wheel speed and decent torque. If you want it even better, get a novak timbuk2 ballistic brushless crawler combo (18.5t motor), it is amazing on the creeper with the rock boost (R) feature. Use original 15 tooth pinion. Thats the best i have had experience with. Hope this helps.
 
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