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Venom trick and tips FAQ thread!

666

MODERHATER™
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Post all your tricks/tips and setup questions here for the Venom crawler!
 
I asked Pat to do this for us, I have alot of stuff to contribute to this thread so stand by for some write ups and cool mods!

Coming soon:
Driveline mods
Lower COG mods
Battery tray mods
Shock mods
DIG Mods
Link bullet proofing
Locker mods
BTA steering
I have much more coming too "thumbsup


CVD bullet proofing
Ok guys, here is a couple shots of what I have been doing for the last 6 months to keep the pin from coming loose on my axle's. So far I have not had one single pin come loose since I did this mod. I know some have been shrink wrapping the stub to help keep the pin in there. I had done this as well but under hard load (dig) I found that the pin would slowly work its way out. So I started searching the internet for some very thin walled aluminum pipe that I could cut into rings, then I could "press" those onto the stub over the pin to keep it in place then put shrink tubing over that. The problem I ran into is that First, I had a heck of a time finding the tubing and Second there is a very tight tolerance to between the c-hub and the stub axle so the tubing needed to be very thin. So here is some pictures and info on what I did.

1. Cut some very thin strips out of an aluminum can
2. Shape the stip into a small "circle"
3. Wrap circle around the stub and bend it where the ends meet
4. Trim the strip so its the same size as the stub
5. Slide the strip/circle into a peice of shrink tubing, make sure you slide it in about an 1/8th of an inch past the end of the shrink tubing, so the shrink will wrap over the end of the stub to keep it from sliding off.
6. Slide this over the stub, Make sure you turn the ends of the strip so they do not line up with one of the pin ends (if your pin ends are at "12&"6" then put the ends of the strip at "3" or "9" )
7. Heat the shrink so it sucks around the stip holding it tight against the pin ends
8. Trim with razor blade so the bearing fits.
9. Thats pretty much it, the thin aluminum strip is just enough to keep the pin from pushing its way out through the shrink tubing alone.
 

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looking foward to detailed write ups on your rigs mods"thumbsup".... don't forget the pictures8)
 
One thing that i think has made my Venom last is instead of using the set screw on the cvd pins, I shrink wrapped them.
 
Help's with hang ups.

Here is my mod. I removed the gussets on the bottom of the axles and removed some material around the bottom of the pumpkin with the file. I also removed the front nipple on the pumpkin where you screw the skid plate in. It helps it from getting hung up.

P1050033.jpg
 
Here are a couple of my mods.

I found that the thunder power 1320 3c batteries fit in the chassis on the driver side
DSCN1635.jpg


Then I moved the rear steering links up. I used a couple spacers to compensate for the longer distance. Then instead of internal springs all around I put them above and below the piston in the rear to stiffen it up a bit. then inverted them all around to lower the CG. Worked good for me so I thought I would share.
DSCN1637.jpg
 
I had a few screws (rim locks, etc) that felt like they wanted to strip out of the plastic. I pinched the affected screw inside a paper towel and used the allen wrench to unscrew it out of the pinch. This will clean any plastic and oil out of the threads.
 
After some searching, I found the info sporadic. I was looking for driveshaft upgrades for the Creeper. Anyone got some definitve, won't break and won't break the wallet driveshaft suggestions?

Other things I was thinking that could be added. Since there are relatively few parts makers out there, maybe we could also compile a list of vendors who carry/make stuff specifically for our rigs.

My first is RC-Bros.-
Diff spool
Aluminum Shock bodies
HD Axles
 
Wouldn't the Cr01 Junfacs work better? The rear one is shorter at 82mm to 117mm. So when useing the dig there shouldn't be any fitment issues right?
And the front shaft is the same at 95mm to 130mm.

Let me know if I am wrong..8)
 
Those are what I ordered 82mm X 117mm (2) like I stated, the stock venom ones are 95mm. You can use the 95mm X 130 but you might have to trim a little off.
 
Wouldn't the Cr01 Junfacs work better? The rear one is shorter at 82mm to 117mm. So when useing the dig there shouldn't be any fitment issues right?
And the front shaft is the same at 95mm to 130mm.

Let me know if I am wrong..8)

I was actually going to ask a very similar question since I am in the market for shafts and shortly thereafter the dig unit. Anyone have any practical experience with this?
 
I have a set of the SS ones on my axial, and been running them for 2 years now with zero problems. The new series are even better, there made out of carbon steel I just ordered 2 82mm x 117mm ones.
 
Venom Creeper Hints & Tips


I'm new to the CREEPER and Crawling in general. I thought that having a thread with all the great Hints & Tips you guys have already come up with in one place would make things easier for the newer members.

By no means is this list exhaustive, but just something to get the new CREEPERS a little head start and maybe help some of you “Old Hands” with something you might have missed.

Tips during build
Install Motor prior to battery tray - you will thank me later !!​


“fubar” lockouts, Custom shock mounts, modified battery tray, adding “anti-squat”​








Drivetrain





















Suspension









No pics and NO followup from OP, but it is said to work....​


Any further info would be great to have. "thumbsup"​



Can a mod merge this post into this thread?"thumbsup"
 
Is it true flipping the shocks around helps with lowering the center of gravity?



Yes a little bit. There is many other things like lower your ride height, getting less weight on top and putting it lower. That stock battery tray really kills the COG.
 
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