SDheavymetal
RCC Addict
3 cell Lpo! 35t motor or 30t
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Tips and Tricks Thread
- Thread starter Lemonlegs28
- Start date
TacoCrawler
I wanna be Dave
AS-3 servo output shaft slop - budget fix
The stock AS-3 servo is a fail right out the box...
In short order the output shaft will net play/slop
and eventually strip the gears.
Now most folk simply replace the AS-3 for aft. mkt. servos
that have a higher torque yield.
But for folks on a budget...
the cure is simply replacing the output shaft's output bushing.
The stock AS-3 output bushing is simply made of plastic and it will fail quickly.
My LHS didn't have the correct bearing size in store...
sooo... I had to get more resourceful.
Because I was too cheap to invest monies into the AS-3
for a ball bearing race... 10mm OD X 6mm ID X 3mm thickness.
I salvaged from what I had laying around.
I had several Traxxas 2055 cheapo servos that I had removed from a Tmaxx
as I had upgraded those at the time.
^ these 2055 servos are not bearing'd....
but instead have a metal/bronze bushing.
Since I'm only looking to make the stock AS-3 servo last a little longer...
this altercation will be more durable then the original plastic bushing.
I took the bushing set outta the 2055 servo...
and installed that into the Axial AS-3 servo.
It's only 4 screws to remove from the back side of the servo.
The upper cap/cover is what you want to remove and is where the bushing resides.
But be aware... removing those 4 screws will basically
allow the motor housing to separate from the gear housing as well.
Also... push down on the output shaft slightly when removing the top cover...
so that the upper cover is removed easily and the gears stay put in the gear housing.
The Traxxas 2055 bushing is compromised of two parts...
an outer steel race... and an inner bronze oilite bushing.
The steel race is inserted into the upper housing's output shaft seat.
The inner bronze bushing need be seated inside that...
or installed on the output shaft when pressing the cover back on.
I chose to insert both steel outer and bronze inner into the cover's output shaft seat,
then press the top cover back on. Was real easy ;-)
This budget trick has removed the play associated with the AS-3's plastic output bushing...
and should offer the AS-3 a longer consumable life.
Keep in mind... other servo's you may have, might also work.
As long as the case size is near the same and the bushing/bearing
is the size I listed previously.
I do have some other servos, I know for fact, have ball bearing races at the output shaft...
But I didn't want to steal the bearings outta those...
as they still work fine and may have future purpose.
didn't think pictures would be necessary...
because it's so simple and self expanatory...
yer mother could do it... Lol
The stock AS-3 servo is a fail right out the box...
In short order the output shaft will net play/slop
and eventually strip the gears.
Now most folk simply replace the AS-3 for aft. mkt. servos
that have a higher torque yield.
But for folks on a budget...
the cure is simply replacing the output shaft's output bushing.
The stock AS-3 output bushing is simply made of plastic and it will fail quickly.
My LHS didn't have the correct bearing size in store...
sooo... I had to get more resourceful.
Because I was too cheap to invest monies into the AS-3
for a ball bearing race... 10mm OD X 6mm ID X 3mm thickness.
I salvaged from what I had laying around.
I had several Traxxas 2055 cheapo servos that I had removed from a Tmaxx
as I had upgraded those at the time.
^ these 2055 servos are not bearing'd....
but instead have a metal/bronze bushing.
Since I'm only looking to make the stock AS-3 servo last a little longer...
this altercation will be more durable then the original plastic bushing.
I took the bushing set outta the 2055 servo...
and installed that into the Axial AS-3 servo.
It's only 4 screws to remove from the back side of the servo.
The upper cap/cover is what you want to remove and is where the bushing resides.
But be aware... removing those 4 screws will basically
allow the motor housing to separate from the gear housing as well.
Also... push down on the output shaft slightly when removing the top cover...
so that the upper cover is removed easily and the gears stay put in the gear housing.
The Traxxas 2055 bushing is compromised of two parts...
an outer steel race... and an inner bronze oilite bushing.
The steel race is inserted into the upper housing's output shaft seat.
The inner bronze bushing need be seated inside that...
or installed on the output shaft when pressing the cover back on.
I chose to insert both steel outer and bronze inner into the cover's output shaft seat,
then press the top cover back on. Was real easy ;-)
This budget trick has removed the play associated with the AS-3's plastic output bushing...
and should offer the AS-3 a longer consumable life.
Keep in mind... other servo's you may have, might also work.
As long as the case size is near the same and the bushing/bearing
is the size I listed previously.
I do have some other servos, I know for fact, have ball bearing races at the output shaft...
But I didn't want to steal the bearings outta those...
as they still work fine and may have future purpose.
didn't think pictures would be necessary...
because it's so simple and self expanatory...
yer mother could do it... Lol
This was a pretty rad mod that I found on this site and inspired me to save the $30+ on a hard top and just go for my own on my Rubicon.
http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/general-scale-talk/420797-6-minute-soft-top.html
http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/general-scale-talk/420797-6-minute-soft-top.html
the cool thing about how this soft top was made is that you can inturn make a fiberglass mold out of it and make your self a hard top....
Richterat83
RCC Addict
Strengthen you factory drive shafts with parts you already have!
First find this parts tree and cut the end off where the hex tool is pointed to look like the piece on the right. you'll have to shave the things off the sides too. I used a utility knife for all the cutting.
Next shove into the male part of the drive shaft and cut it leaving just enough to be pulled back out with pliers.
This mod will make your shaft much stronger by not allowing the inner shaft to collapse and twist. It also slightly enlarges the inner shaft making it a close tolerance fit in the outer shaft. Adding a light coat of grease will help them move freely.
Did this to my rig over the weekend, i hadn't beat on it too bad, but hopefully this will help the shafts last until i can get some MIP's
Ohioskills
Rock Crawler
so after doing upgrades to my honcho iv got a GCM t-case and front motor mount everything is good but i noticed that after a lil water on my slipper i loose all fuction after a quick stop its fine im running 87/10 and 15 twh motor with 2s is it poor motor or need a slipper bc this one is butter now
Richterat83
RCC Addict
tighten the slipper down a little more?
65BAJA
Quarry Creeper
How far from bottomed out is it adjusted?
You may just want to go with the Robinson 32P slash slipper.
<iframe width="560" height="315" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/M6CvanjjVAY" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
Last edited:
Ohioskills
Rock Crawler
^ way too big im at work ill post a pick somtime today
its pretty tight
running 87/20 i ment
seems that i found somthing that might help what you guys think
Hot Racing Axial AX10 SCX10 Aluminum Heavy Duty Slipper Kit SCP15MC01 | eBay
its pretty tight
running 87/20 i ment
seems that i found somthing that might help what you guys think
Hot Racing Axial AX10 SCX10 Aluminum Heavy Duty Slipper Kit SCP15MC01 | eBay
Last edited:
mitchr97
RCC Addict
So I had 2 extra lights I didn't want to waste on my light kit, an suv body mount, an old honcho bumper, and some free time. I decided to cut the light mounts off of the honcho bumper, and trim the pin hole, and body rests off of the suv body mount.
Then I drilled a hole on the top of the suv mount going in ward, and holes in the light mount bar going horizontal, so I could put set screw things with the pins on the ends to mount the bar to the now headache rack.
I drilled holes in the body to where I wanted it mounted, put the lights in, and I now have a light bar/ headache rack!
Sent from my scrappy concord using Tapatalk 2
Then I drilled a hole on the top of the suv mount going in ward, and holes in the light mount bar going horizontal, so I could put set screw things with the pins on the ends to mount the bar to the now headache rack.
I drilled holes in the body to where I wanted it mounted, put the lights in, and I now have a light bar/ headache rack!
Sent from my scrappy concord using Tapatalk 2
I ended up doing something very similar but with some carbon fiber. Mine is attached between the motor plate and the transmission with a hole for the motor shaft to pass through.
I dont yet have a decent photo of it and dont mind the servo, its only there for a proof of concept that Im working on.
mitchr97
RCC Addict
How to make a track bar for leaf springs with stock 3 link.
First, zip tie the 2 arms that make the y so that they are as close together as possible. Then heat the joint until the 2 arms are close enough together that the screw holds on the top touch.
Then put a screw through the screw holds to secure the y link. I used a spare axle housing. Hold the link with a pliers about 3/4 of an inch from the screw hold, and heat just next to the screw hold, and twist until the screw hold has rotated 90°. Repeat with the the other arm.
Now you have a free track bar. I will be noting the lower arm to the link/ shock mount, and the upper to a 4 link truss.
Your welcome "thumbsup"
sent from my crappy phone using tapatalk 2
First, zip tie the 2 arms that make the y so that they are as close together as possible. Then heat the joint until the 2 arms are close enough together that the screw holds on the top touch.
Then put a screw through the screw holds to secure the y link. I used a spare axle housing. Hold the link with a pliers about 3/4 of an inch from the screw hold, and heat just next to the screw hold, and twist until the screw hold has rotated 90°. Repeat with the the other arm.
Now you have a free track bar. I will be noting the lower arm to the link/ shock mount, and the upper to a 4 link truss.
Your welcome "thumbsup"
sent from my crappy phone using tapatalk 2
mitchr97
RCC Addict
How to make a track bar for leaf springs with stock 3 link.
First, zip tie the 2 arms that make the y so that they are as close together as possible. Then heat the joint until the 2 arms are close enough together that the screw holds on the top touch.
Then put a screw through the screw holds to secure the y link. I used a spare axle housing. Hold the link with a pliers about 3/4 of an inch from the screw hold, and heat just next to the screw hold, and twist until the screw hold has rotated 90°. Repeat with the the other arm.
Now you have a free track bar. I will be mounting the lower arm to the link/ shock mount, and the upper to a 4 link truss.
Your welcome "thumbsup"
sent from my crappy phone using tapatalk 2
sent from my crappy phone using tapatalk 2
mitchr97
RCC Addict
Sent from my HTC Desire HD A9191 using Tapatalk 2
How to make a Dingo Topper
I have been asked to provide a bit more detail on how I created the topper so here goes, feel free to ask any questions you want!
Most of the angle widths and heights were determined on the fly or "eyeballed" to what I thought looked right
I started with a full sheet of plastruct styrene .080 thickness so it would be good and sturdy. a sheet is 12" x 7" which is almost perfect. I thought 7" was just about right for the flat part of the top, I could always adjust it later, I just knew I wanted the seam between the flat part and the angled part of the top to be approximately above the door seam.
First thing I did was build a simple jig out of some scrap 2x4 and 1x6 then sanded the one corner I would be bending around to a nice curve. the angle of the side bends are 90 degrees so that kept it simple, I just sanded till I thought it had a nice smooth curve
the first bend would determine the height of the topper, exact measurements weren't critical, I just needed it to be about 20mm above the dingos cage, so it ended up being about 80mm. so I clamped it down that far from the bend and slowly started running my heat gun back and forth, top and bottom till the point where the styrene starts to bend under its own weight, then I just pressed it all the way down and held it for a few seconds, and presto, perfect 90 degree bend
now you will notice the bend did not come down completely flush with the verticle part of the jig, it wants to curve out a millimeter or 2, but I did have to compensate for that on my second bend, so I got it just the right width. To determine the width, just measure the width of the top of the dingo body. Then I took the halfway point of that, marked it on my jig and the styrene, clamped it down and made the second bend. there was some trial and error to all this. I did have to do it twice to get it all just right, but even then the sheet was a bit short so I had to weld on an extention so both sides were the same height.
Now I had to bend a second piece the same then trim it down to make the angled part of the top. I trimmed the side till it snugged up nicely to the main part of the topper while resting on the windshield, took some trial and error to get it right and when I was happy I welded the 2 parts together.
I have been asked to provide a bit more detail on how I created the topper so here goes, feel free to ask any questions you want!
Most of the angle widths and heights were determined on the fly or "eyeballed" to what I thought looked right
I started with a full sheet of plastruct styrene .080 thickness so it would be good and sturdy. a sheet is 12" x 7" which is almost perfect. I thought 7" was just about right for the flat part of the top, I could always adjust it later, I just knew I wanted the seam between the flat part and the angled part of the top to be approximately above the door seam.
First thing I did was build a simple jig out of some scrap 2x4 and 1x6 then sanded the one corner I would be bending around to a nice curve. the angle of the side bends are 90 degrees so that kept it simple, I just sanded till I thought it had a nice smooth curve
the first bend would determine the height of the topper, exact measurements weren't critical, I just needed it to be about 20mm above the dingos cage, so it ended up being about 80mm. so I clamped it down that far from the bend and slowly started running my heat gun back and forth, top and bottom till the point where the styrene starts to bend under its own weight, then I just pressed it all the way down and held it for a few seconds, and presto, perfect 90 degree bend
now you will notice the bend did not come down completely flush with the verticle part of the jig, it wants to curve out a millimeter or 2, but I did have to compensate for that on my second bend, so I got it just the right width. To determine the width, just measure the width of the top of the dingo body. Then I took the halfway point of that, marked it on my jig and the styrene, clamped it down and made the second bend. there was some trial and error to all this. I did have to do it twice to get it all just right, but even then the sheet was a bit short so I had to weld on an extention so both sides were the same height.
Now I had to bend a second piece the same then trim it down to make the angled part of the top. I trimmed the side till it snugged up nicely to the main part of the topper while resting on the windshield, took some trial and error to get it right and when I was happy I welded the 2 parts together.
Then it was a matter of making a horizontal line above the window and trimming it. I also trimmed back about 10mm of the main part around the window and left a nice curve at the top. for the back, I made a cardboard template and when I was happy with the fit, transferred it to styrene and bonded it in place. I recessed it back, just thought that looked better since I was not going to put any windows in, though If you wanted you could certainly cut some in at this point
the last part was to create the seam. I used styrene angle and bonded it all the way around, the effect was great BUT looking back I would prolly do something different. its too thin and I have broken a few notches out of it from rollovers lol, now I plan to trim the whole thing down so it doesn't stick out so much, BUT a few battle scars don't bother me that much, and it still looks good
I wanted to be able to remove it quickly when needed, so to mount it I put Velcro on the front of the cage by the windshield and bolted on a couple washers to the rear of the cage, these are normally covered by my bikini top. Then I mounted 3 magnets inside the topper. You will also notice the styrene I put to reinforce the joint, that is very very important and I would recommend even more that I have there. The white bit of styrene in the back is there to prevent the whole thing from moving forward. So it snaps into place and does not move till I take it off.
Hope that helps, any questions feel free to pm me.
the last part was to create the seam. I used styrene angle and bonded it all the way around, the effect was great BUT looking back I would prolly do something different. its too thin and I have broken a few notches out of it from rollovers lol, now I plan to trim the whole thing down so it doesn't stick out so much, BUT a few battle scars don't bother me that much, and it still looks good
I wanted to be able to remove it quickly when needed, so to mount it I put Velcro on the front of the cage by the windshield and bolted on a couple washers to the rear of the cage, these are normally covered by my bikini top. Then I mounted 3 magnets inside the topper. You will also notice the styrene I put to reinforce the joint, that is very very important and I would recommend even more that I have there. The white bit of styrene in the back is there to prevent the whole thing from moving forward. So it snaps into place and does not move till I take it off.
Hope that helps, any questions feel free to pm me.
mount the battery in the back and then make up a 1/4in thick by 2in wide by about 6in long plate steel and drill holes in it that line up with the holes on the frame braces from the original battery mount. this efectively lowers the weight of the battery so there are less side hill rollovers and adds weight up front so you can still get enough flex and keep the weight somewhat centered. sorry 2nd post so no pics but email/pm me if you want some
