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timmy two times - toyzuki suzuki

badhoopty

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Joined
Jan 28, 2004
Messages
2,814
Location
chicago
this is my o.g. c2 rig, tinytim. aka timmy.
i built it way back in 2010 or 2011 and its been my go-to truck to this day, but for sorrca its heavy, overcomplicated and a bit of a hassle to work on.

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anyway... for the past few years ive been wanting to build a more lightweight and scale looking trail ranger based rig. so here it is.

i originally started it as a c1/c2 rig, but right after i started on it sorrca updated their the rules and made the chassis illegal. you will see i leveled the skid already and im hoping they relax on the metal only rule or i can get a set of metal rails.

its a basic toyzuki v1 setup... tickle over 11.5 wheelbase, droop setup with internal springs mounted under the pistons to keep it planted. i ran this once just to see how it worked and i was very impressed, but i might later on extend the towers and put some 100mm shocks in it to compensate for the loss of travel with the internal springs.
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initial mounting of the body
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preliminary tzi winch mounted up front and axial links bent to fit. (i later moved the winch down and back about 3/8" so i could hide it all behind the bumper)
the curries have been swapped to stocker scx cases. they were just attached to all the other parts i used to initially put the rig together.
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starting on the interior and drop bed.
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polygon looking trans tunnel and the seat bottoms.
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the dash and spdedo cluster
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simple seats that i made way too complicated. ;)
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fast fwd to the interior as it currently sits. i wanted enough detail to look like a samurai but didnt want to try too hard at it.
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got me some willy dudes.
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annnnd here we go. my first attempt at getting custom stuff cut. i designed some boxed-in sliders and front and rear bumper plates.
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im using harris brazing materials and the cheap home depot torch that uses disposable mapp and o2 bottles. it works ok but i should be using a refillable o2 tank and better quality torch with the freaking money ive spent gobbling those o2 bottles...
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the plates i had lasercut were all tabbed to fit together. pretty happy with how its going so far.
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note the notches for the tubework.
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the sliders mocked up. long center panel will drop out the bottom for lipos and electrics to mount between the skids and the floorboard. holes on sliders match up with the 3/16" holes in the chassis plates and will be where the rollcage mounts. i also relocated the rear holes on the skid so it sits horizontal.
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i made the plate that attaches to the rails out of 1mm because i had worries about fitting the lipo, but now that theyre all done i wish i had made them 1.5mm like the rest of the plates.

a bit tricky to figure out how to braze together given that i have limited tools and clampy devices, but i managed.
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little checkin out how it fits with the body. me like!
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guy on the tv is totally judging... f that dude.
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tube time. i have had 20' of stainless 3/16 tube and 1/8 rod for years, time to use it. really want to keep the tubework as simple as possible. unlike the o.g. timmy.
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even if it isnt ever legal for c1 again, i want full width bumpers. "thumbsup"
still gotta add the lower tubes, i'll get back to that later.
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fits nice and snug with the body. will trim the ends later.
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...im now waiting on a bunch of cob lights to ship from china before i start on the rest of the tubework.


if you look at the driver and pass side upper cage bars on the old timmy you will see i used a straight piece of hollow tube, that was because i had the idea of a removable lightbar or roofrack to slide in there and be screwed down. im kinda thinking to follow through on that idea with this rig. "thumbsup"

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oh snap, forgot the last pics with some wheels and tires.

o.g. rockbeasts
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rockbeast xl's 8)
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Very nice! Those bumpers and sliders are legit!. I wouldn't count on the metal chassis thing, I've fought that fight for awhile and I don't think the rule is going to budge.
 
yeah im not too worried about it. the skid is leveled out and ill just keep a lookout for some aluminum rails. wont hurt my feelings but it would be neat to c1 it. im definitely not trying to build a cheater rig. "thumbsup"
 
Great looking build so far , I really dig the custom cut parts , thats something I want to look into. Just a couple of questions.
Are they water jet or laser cut ?
What sort of designs did they require ? ( file , sketch , how much detail )
And how many times did you change the designs , I could guarantee that if I changed them 50 times there would still be something I missed when I finally got to assembly !
Keep up the good work. "thumbsup"
 
im on the 3rd set of parts... i could totally change up the sliders a bit more tbh but im eager to get this thing started. it woulda helped a ton if i had the mechanical file of the toyzuki chassis and i coulda also saved alot of time if i had used a printer to print the designs, and then mounted the paper to cardstock and trimmed it. but alas i dont have a printer...

the pieces are all laser cut and i used adobe illustrator to make the files. i had a vendor here help me at first and then used a online company called lasergist for the pieces you see now. lasergist is easy as hell and CHEAP if you have any knowledge of vector graphics. BUT they are in denmark or belgium or somewhere over there and they take forever to ship. both times i used them it took around a month.

the parts i initially had an rcc vendor help me get cut were a bit better quality. corners were more sharp and ovals were more oval and not eggshaped like the lasergist parts.

i thought i had a pic on my phone of my screen showing my final illustrator file. will edit this post with it when i get back to my computer.

heres the prevoius parts. will totally end up cutting them up for custom brackets down the road. biggest change was getting the angle of the sliders to match how the body sat.
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I have some alum version 0 rails.... these dont have shock mounts and are thinner than the g10. Early proto stuff as Ben was working thru the design and I was building like crazy..

lmk, happy to send you a set if they will work for you.
 
I have some alum version 0 rails.... these dont have shock mounts and are thinner than the g10. Early proto stuff as Ben was working thru the design and I was building like crazy..

lmk, happy to send you a set if they will work for you.
ill send ya a pm dev. im kinda locked to the g10 rail width but i could always just shim the space a thinner rail would create. think you could twist bens arm to make a run of aluminum rails? ive asked him enough myself to be worried ill piss him off if i ask anymore... ;)
 
got the interior cage 80% done. still have to add the front and rear crossbraces and finish how it mounts to the sliders.

it took quite awhile getting everything just right. its not quite as square as it seems when you try to hug the body lines as much as possible and already have set points for where the cage needs to mount to the sliders.

heres some pics. it took a bit of measuring things 20x over and dremeling/bending just a teeny bit at a time, but it all came out pretty decent.

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i got the floorboard holes perfect. yessss...
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the dash slides down channel and locks the cage crossbar in place. then the body mounts over the tub and locks the dash down.
im really happy with how nicely it all fits together.
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i made a little progress on fitting the cage to the sliders and figured out how to keep it relatively easy to take apart.

i originally was planning on having the cage attach to the sliders via the screw holes in the rocker rails, but instead i switched it up to mounting to the sliders with 1/8" dowels inside the cage tubes. i got some stainless 1/8' collars coming from mcmaster that i'll braze on top of the sliders cage posts under the floorboards and tighten them down through the bottom access panels. got some 3/16 stainless rod coming from mcmaster as well. going to build the rollbar and rear exposed downtubes out of it, and i might swap out the upper bumper tubes for rod. or maybe keep them tubes and use solid rod for the lower bars.

i am simply amazed that so far (knock on wood) that everything is staying square and i havent done any bone-headed stupid shit. worst ive had happen is the occasional jumping off of the carbide bit i use for fishmouthing and buggering up the tube im working on, but so far its been nothing a little flapwheel action hasnt been able to coverup.


first up had to braze the slider cross bars to the cage.
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then cut them in the middle so i can put the sliders on.
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little bit of work on the battery doors. one side is tabbed, the other will use a cutout section of the slider crosstubes to mount. if i remove the rear screws on the rock rail the battery doors should pop right out. i'll know for sure once i get to that point. "thumbsup"
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