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TRX4-XL "SUPERSIZER" -- another BIG RIG to challenge SCX6!!

ryft portal axle convertion kit
I've been eyeballing that setup for my Ryft crawler. I think the long wheelbase would compliment the portals nicely. I would do complete axles and portals. The only downside is I hate how aluminum axles drag on our rock.
 
Yeah, there's one place near here with decent rocks terrain -- a Quarry park. Its where all my stuff goes to break lol but kinda a haul for me.

I'll get out there with both big rigs pretty soon - - I'm close. Its like the heap of the hill for me so if the rigs keep running good at various trails then i'll top it off at Nelson's Ledges Quarry Park and see what breaks.

I'm certainly drving conscientiously like a person who spent hours building and prefer not to break it straight away.

If nothing more you get to see how these parts might do pushing moderately towards limits, and there's a small amount of logic at least in the build its a light weight SCX6 approach --- longer wheelbase, bigger tires, 6 lb diet..... durable axle housing (no melting defomratins here) and portal advantage... what's not to love!! Oh yeah, No scrubs..... sorry Gala I almost forgot ;)

Thrashing, yeah not likely in the picture, but that's not my interest, so i'll leave that to the SCX6, MJX07's or whatever they are. Make a decent looking long bed pick up truck version of one and I might just buy it!! Evern the SCX6 C10 body is awful looking -- maybe if it were half-cabbed.

Anyways I just like to slow technical crawl all-terrain, that's pretty much it. The most thrashing I do is on an aggressive hill climb, that's it, and there's just not good dedicated "bedrock" type of terrain around here I really really wish there was!!

So -- everyone to each there own of course, no need to read my posts, more for me own edification than anything else -- blog style.

Thanks though and welcome to the thread bigred!!
 
And thanks Ferp for the links -- if these portal axles fail or rather when, maybe I'll go diff route and try out the RYFT's -- they do look beefie!!
 
I've been eyeballing that setup for my Ryft crawler. I think the long wheelbase would compliment the portals nicely. I would do complete axles and portals. The only downside is I hate how aluminum axles drag on our rock.
Could maybe add thin sheet metal steel skids under the axle --- I agree entirely how bad it is the alum sticks to rocks especially sandstone is like sandpaper grabbing the aluminum. But steel slides on it decently..... Been toying with the idea of bending some more steel plates and fixing them under these axles somehow. Eats clearance which sucks of course.

Those Vitavon portals are nasty lookin'!! with the Ryft -- nice theres' the portal setup.... decent price but still up there. I'll need to suffer defeating breakage on this setup first lol!! But yes -- I can see the RBX and Ryft as the way to go moving fwd!!
 
Uh well, still not real sure it would be worth spending that much more cash for these.... they are about 1/2 inch wider per axle, pin to pin, than the ones on my rig right now.

I personally think you're all wrong about these axles (on my TRX4 MEGA) but now the trashing starts so guess i'll have to push on them some more on vid for proving grounds lol.

Those RBX RYFT are TWICE as heavy overall --- the front axle alone weighs as much as both my axles combined.... that's absurd... based on that those things should be BULLET PROOF. But I have doubts still.....

I think the ONLY upgrades you get are...
1. + 32mm overall axle width (I still would need substantial axle extension to get to where I want to be)
2. 6mm vs 5mm bevel gear output drive (a big advantage for sure and worth every penny extra if you want to thrash or bind hard!)
3. side axle servo mount -- does it take a 5th scale servo more easily?

Anyways -- so much heavier and on the rear alone that is a big detractor and adds the liklihood of breaking something despite the larger output bevel gear.

They are running SAME SIZE Axle half shafts -- 5mm. I'd much rather be down half weight on overall axle weight and down 6lbs on overall rig weight and have these 5mm axle outputs.

HECK, that's the weakness if you ask in those axles ---- even TRX4 has 6mm, down to 5mm axle outputs at each of the 4 corners.

I beefed my axle outputs up by putting brass sleeves over them with and thin layers of JB WELD ---- so the axle extension adapters would fit smooth over a 6mm wide output. I can also add another brass sleeves and go up to 8mm, I have extenders with 8mm center holes-- but I think that would be overkill.

RBX RYFT AXLE SPECS -- PIG HEAVY.... WHO NEEDS IT LOL!!! And heck that's before upping to PORTALS.... YIKES!

Size:
Total Width: 285mm
Pin to Pin Width: 258mm
5mm Axle Output Shaft
6mm Input Shaft(Bevel Gear)
12mm Standard Hex
Links Mount Width: 9mm

Bevel Gear Set: 38T/13T
Gear Ratio: 2.92:1

Weight:
Front Axle: 650g
Rear Axle: 545g

What's Included:

1 Set * Metal AR14B Axle
 
7xkorBoq_o.jpg
 
Yeah Gala, welcome back, nice to see you here, missed You and thought you might just never come back lol!! And yes You're prolly spot on there --
Not sure If I'm reading you right, but it seems you have a chip on your shoulder for some reason.

Hmm, however, we both come from the same time frame of the "built not bought" era, and have some neat innovatiins, ideas.

I was merely giving you constructive feedback if anything, sorry if you took it the wrong way.

The best analogy for the "scrub angle" I can think of is your 40mm extenders on your axles are your arms fully extended horizontally (pretend your a cross), and wheels mounted to your hands. VS without 40mm extensions where it would be the equivalent of the wheels being mounted to your elbows. Your shoulders are the kingpins/pivot. Lots of stress in that area

So in your video, it looked like you were trying to steer or go diagonally down the stairs, but each time one of the wheels that touched first would straighen the trucks steering again. Make sense?

The "kingpins" are taking a HUGE amount of stress, let alo e the servo.

It's cool you decked out a set of clod axles the way you did, to me however, it seemed you were pouring money into a lost cause due to them breaking, and being limited in capabilities IMHO.

I don't t think i hinted at you buying someting or anything other than possibly using Kyosho mad force axles for one of your builds. Im sure you know how strong they are and they can be built as wide as 14" or narrow like TLT axles.


Again dont take what i say in a bad way, however, I'll stay clear of your threads. Take care.
 
Ferp --- that rear axle shot looks darn FINE!!! Love the leafs -- you are legit scale no doubts!!

Gala --- All good my friend - not wanting to force you here, or force you out of here either -- so please accept my apologies -- -no intended chip on my shoulder at all. Your feedback, constructive criticisms etc whatever anyone wants to label them as are absolutely welcome here and invited by me personally! Say anything you want and however you want ---- my skin is plenty thick and please don't mind if I poke back a tad or defend how much I do LOVE my builds.

I am poking at the whole thing JUST IN FUN -- please I hope you won't take it as anything more (getting a tad of shade - I welcome it anyways. It can print however anyone wants and can read into my comments any which way -- internet is fun that way. I see it as if you got motivated to say something in here -- you must find my build interesting enough in some way to talk about it. You most certainly don't have to like it or think anything of it at all.

I don't even mind if every darn user comes here and calls it all junk and badly built stuff. Quite serious here. I have and will have no ill will, and glad decided to weigh in, rather than nothing to say at all -- ie no interest.

I get my approaches are possibly radical or off the cuff, or not well thought out as something sat down, planned out methodically, and then built methodically as well. I'm just not that guy.

I"m appreciative that all are welcome here, certainly not everyone has to be liked or their builds liked.

That said --- I think you're wrong about the CLOD, right now my rig is holding up just fine (aside from some failed bushing in brushed 550 Titan's, but hey, i'm motor experimenting right now, everyone has motor failures from time to time). And i've pulled over 250lbs up a 20ft incline in a wagon.

And I"ve driven in 16 inches of water, and Rock crawled and hill climbed "decently" at least for a 34lb somewhat scale looking rig, AND i've modded the front steering to TWIN 5th Scale steering servo power pushed all with solid COLD STEEL. AND plowed thru 10 inches of snow ---- who's done this on vid with their rig -- other than riding on TOP of it with snow tracks? AND its gone in a 2 mile trail round trip on a single outing with over 50% lipo left over at the end --- its a LONG HAULER!!!! (and its soon to be shown hauling the 19lb TRX4 MEGA TRUCK around town -- do that in an SCX6 or TRX6!?!)

SCX6 CLOD Beastie Honcho is a FIRST OF ITS KIND my friends!!!! It will go down in history as one of the most valuable bespoke builds on the market (right now and long into the future), just my opinion. Its bad to the BONE, and there is NO OTHER 34lb rock crawler rig out there (let alone from late 1980's original axle design) other than SCX6 outfitted with VITIVON gear cuz we all know the stock gear can hack it at those weights.

I guess I just don't understand what more I could or would need to do with the CLOD to prove how incredible and durable it is so on my build techniques? Surely we all know the CLOD axles bone stock can't do what mine are doing.... hell, how many zinc alloy housing are even out there right now, in running working rigs? Surely there are about 0 others that figured out the need and the how to on boring out the counter gear smaller bearings to take the 10mm upgrade --- its beyond NO SLOUCH, if you ask me for my opinion. And that's all this is, just my opinion. Who else has 8mm Carbon steel output axle XVD's shafts besides RC4WD for the Clodbuster? I have 6 sets and NEVER used but the first ones lol. Besides maybe Vitavon SCX6 stuff which we all know is the BADEST and the BESTEST pretty much. And that's done on 35T TITAN's... I'm now on 55T TITAN's and waiting for 570's to show up in the mail (but have been turned around by custom's before, not sure why). Anyways I'll have to do some mods to fit 570's in there -- need to push the shocks out further I think. Point is, even with 55t's its slower and more torquey now and can pull even more weight!!! I might even go back to the big block brushless setup soon although 1/2 of it is currently on loan to the TRX4 MEGA.

Just saying, the CLOD has made it, end of the discussion (for me at least), there's on longer any need to change or upgrade to different axles-- my special internal upgraded bearing mod has fixed the final failure point and now i'm crushing brushed 550 TITAN motor bushing under the load --- before any damage to the CLOD axle --- that's sitting on 55mm axle extensions.

If anything, honestly, I think peops would just stare and admire the bizarre yet rugged approach to my builds -- seen those MASSIVE 16mm lower 4-links on the CLOD Beastie? lol break those....... I guess wait a year and see it all still running and making vids..... everything is fully marine greased and ready to hold up long haul far as i'm concerned.

So i'll acknowledge "yes" to a chip on my shoulder if that means i'm am very PLEASED with how my builds turned out and how they are performing on task and their level of durability. Frankly, never in my life have I had so much success with my builds panning out both on the bench while building and then at the testing grounds, and when things go wrong, lately I just easily and quickly find the FIX I need for everything.

Its been awesome --- so again, I am sincerenly sorry if its coming off like a "chip" or if I'm bugging anyone/everyone here, its not meant that way and I dont dislike any of you and I take your feedback, I read it all, and DO ACTUALLY think it all thru and figure out if its worthwhile to modify and make some improvements within my building skills "reason" to do it!! The SCRUB I did figure out in my head as I thought it thru -- my visual aligns with how you explained above ---- it only makes perfect physics sense on where the strains are taking place and compiling.

I gave and still credit Ferp420 100% for fender well suggesting on the Honcho for example. He didn't like my front bumper, and let me know politely it could use a modification possibly, I didn't really see it that way, I'm into it, so left it that, pretty cordial, pretty simple. Two adults sharing ideas, take em or leave em.

Anyways -- I do also mean it when I say I'm a hack builder, I admit it and I"m not ashamed at all --- I just only have enough patients to cut and grind until its together and running, that's the choice I make. I can hardly ever bring it blow everything apart and paint, powder coat, put finishing touches, etc. Its just not me. Onto the next build, toy, genre, (drones, Helios, car, micro, EDF jets, micro pusher jets, etc etc-- I scratch build A LOT of FUN junk to entertain myself!).

To that I say though -- so what about the SCRUB and the wheels going down 10-12 inch tall cement/rock stairs lol) -- in a coy sort of way though, not offensively!! I mean, did you see the video, were you not impressed? Is it not a hellish cool rig? I sure thought so. To me, the performance was AMAZING!!! Ready to take on SCX6's.... LFG!!

So again, just for me, and not for everyone, the rigs check every single box, period., end of story. From here, it just keep getting better and better and i'll figure out how to address any wear issues, etc. (see my FCX18 wide stance build -- another MEGA at scale --- freakin' AWESOME!! and CRAWLS WAYYY better than stock).


all that's left, 🫶 mic drop
 
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Yeah so...

You guys are right again! LOL who's even surprised??

Broke the new Capra front axle out at the park yesterday --- so much for 7075 Aluminum!!!! Surprised that so far the internals seem to be holding up well enough --- a small amount of play has developed in one of the U-joints in front steering -- not bad but clearly more than initial and more than the other side

But ultimately I broke off a front 4-link mount tab --- and these are permanently affixed to the axles so there is no removal/replacement situation --- that's a bummer.

I guess I shouldn't be surprised, because the axles are narrower -- the link mounts for the lowers are too narrow on the axle location and to get good triangulation of lower front links I took the heims onto the outsides of the axle mount tabs -- -meaning the links only attached to a single tab on the outside, instead of being sandwiched between the two axle link mount tabs. I had a bad feeling about this but decided to go for it --- I did have a long carbon steel screw thru all 3 tabs (only 2 tabs though on the side that broke, due to being next to the pumpkin) so the whole thing was tied together on two tabs, but the outter tab must have come under a lot more load from the 4-link during this vid and it failed.

Vid uploading now -- not clear to me at what point the breakage occured -- although at the end of the vid I inspect underneath on camera and I notice that the front link mounts "screw has worked loose" ---- actually that's because of the broken tab which I did not notice while videoing or driving. It drove and operated fine despite the breakage as it was still holding onto the other inner most link mount tab thru the long carbon steel M3.

Actually just noticed at 11:06 I looked at the bottom side and can see its already broken - - I wonder if it broke a few days ago at the Metro parks on the water and I never even noticed. hmmmmm!

Oh well --- -you guys are always right here!!! As I say, i'm the hack builder --- live and learn!!!

And here's why its hack - probably could have avoided the breakage altogether if I had FILLED the gap space between the link mounts with washers/nuts etc --- so that when I tightened down on the long M3, I was putting a TON of sideways force on the link mounts itself. I"m sure that's why it broke -- -if I had washer or nuts filling the gap in there (I though I did or I at least meant to do that and never got around to it after mock assembly) then all the load would have been trasnsferred across the two link mounts (and even into the pumpkin as that M3 terminates inside threads in the side of the pumpkin itself)... giving a much stronger hold. Even worse, if I recall correctly I had about 5 washers on the outside of the outer link mount to push the links out even further looking for triangulation. I can't believe I forgot to fill that gap with washers/nuts. :eek:(n):mad:😭

Weak sauce from your builder, not your axle, simple as that. Oh well. Still gonna try this new AR14B route!

I returned both sets of the Ali CAPRA 7075 axles --- they are really cool about taking stuff back that does not hold up to its word if you process return quickly enough. I do like those axles and mounted properly they should be really solid on an actual Capra or 1/10 scale even 1/8th scale rig. Gears were all still butter smooth.

And I am nabbing a set of the AR14B's Ryft axles that Ferp linked in here and a set of the 7075 Vitavon portals for them.

Figure since the Capras were holding up - the Ryfts are only going to be bigger and more beefie --- and I should be able to link-mount between the metal tabs on the wider Ryft axles and get the triangulation I need.

I like the Ryft axles and what i've seen so far, overall ultimately are quite a bit more $$ but if they hold up better then worth it, I do plan to put miles on this rig so I can spare the SCX6 CLOD and keep it nice ---- getting Vitavon portals to go with maybe will hold up to some decent abuse ---- its not like i hard drive them all that bad really to be honest!


Thanks for the links and the ideas!!!
 
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Got hands on the Ryft metal axles today... all I can say is I owe Ferp a big THANK YOU!!!

These things are huge, wide, and beefy as heck. The housing are WAY more stout for sure. No worries on snapping link mounts here.

No Vitavon portals yet, but should arrive in about a week or so -- I really hope there's no fitment issues -- Vitavon portals on aftermarket non-Vitavon metal axles sounds like trouble waiting to happen --- I couldn't find any vids of anyone linking the two together on the Tube..... so we'll see I guess.

Might just end up having to get Vitavon housings but ug to that so dam expensive.

Will have to reconfigure front shock mounting and upper link mounts a wee bit, but not too much should change. Also going to JB Weld the diffs into spools and get everything marine greased to the hilt.

Thanks Ferp!!! As well as the Capra axles showed out for a short stint --- I can't really see these giving me any trouble at all -- I'm only looking to do 4-5mph, no rock "bouncing" and maybe a tiny mound jump here or there at very most.

These are actually so dang wide I definitely think with a widener they are a good candidate for replacement on the SCX CLOD Beast some day if the Clod axles ever fail. Of course I'd have to figure out a transmission and driveshafts too :rolleyes: to hell with that lol!!
 
there 1/8th scale axles beefy for sure and just for referance the scx6 axles make the ryft axles look like ar44s there that much bigger than the ryft axles

but for that rig you built those axles shoud be perfect "mega truck" axles

i still recommend the axial brand universals for them though the front shafts they came with are made of hardened chinesium

damb it now im getting a itch for a mega truck aaahhh

mega truck on leaf springs aaahhh damb it

tvp chassis damb its practicly building its self here
 
there 1/8th scale axles beefy for sure and just for referance the scx6 axles make the ryft axles look like ar44s there that much bigger than the ryft axles

but for that rig you built those axles shoud be perfect "mega truck" axles

i still recommend the axial brand universals for them though the front shafts they came with are made of hardened chinesium

damb it now im getting a itch for a mega truck aaahhh

mega truck on leaf springs aaahhh damb it

tvp chassis damb its practicly building its self here
MEGA TRUCK MEGA YESSSSSS!!!!!!!!

You can always go back... right?

WRONGO!🤪😝🤑
 
Still waiting for Vitavon Ryft portals to arrive!! Why is it that the badest asss stuff seems to take the darned longest to show up!?

May have challenges with axle adapters -- 17mm hex adapters come standard with 4mm tube screws to mount -- and the Ryft has 5mm shaft/thread so the typical 17mm hex adpater/extension does not fit. I'll come up with something to make it work i'm sure.

Also, i've now seen enough reviews and comments and gone and rotated the ring & pinion enough after greasing the metal Ryft axles to get the picture --- these gears wont' last much if at all. I am going to test them in crawler mode first at least --- with portals 2:1 the strain should be highly reduced, also I won't be rock-bouncing so that changes things alot I think. Will I still break teeth?

I should say the rear is butter smooth, but after I greased the front and re-assembled it became, well, odd. Strangley ritty, at just one rotation point, but also noisy of gears contacting themselves a bit much, throughout the rotation, in a way that the rear doesn't sound or feel.

I fiddled all with shims and whatnot -- to no avail.

I disassembled the front and parts washed everything with carb choke cleaner -- got all grease off. Performed close inspection of gears. A small tooling or machining mark was present on the outside of the ring on the ring gear. And the teeth there were a tiny bit married, I mean tiny, diminmus, and questionable that it could be the cause but it MUST BE! I gently used a round file and then some sand paper (60 grit, 100 grit, 300 grit, 1500grit, and finally 3000grit) to smooth it all thru --- spun back up with grease. Felt smoother, but re-developed slight slight catch point again after fair amount of hand rotating to break-in. I decided to rotate thru the catch point with force a bit and it pushed right thru easily and dissapated, and smoothed out nicely. But still the front gears can be heard and slightly "felt" while hand rotating at all points along the rotation (it is still smooth though, just I can strain it and feel gears moving around each other) and the rear is DEAD SILENT and butter smooth perfect and can't feel a dang thing on matter how you strain it while hand rotating. Both have almost zero play to engagement -- maybe half-millileter up front and 1/4 millimeter out back --- it is tight mesh but just enough to feel a tiny amount of play. Just don't get why the front sounds noiser and less smooth than rear other than poor gear tooth quality.

So anyways -- tired of waiting and figure it won't be long for the stock ring & pinion --- nabbed a Vitavon helical set today. Then all internals will be Vitavon if the portals fit proper. Hope they hold up. It is weird one add says the Vitavon are 20Cr and heat treated steel and another says they are #45 carbon steel --- both sets look similar / same price, helical, 13/38t etc. No clue? Can see advantages of both those steels in the use case, so who even knows but assume both would be better than whats inside them now.

 
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VITAVON RYFT METAL PORTALS IN THE HOUSE!!!

Driving vids soon. All I can say is AAA-MAZING!!!

Feels ROCK SOLID so far.

Big thanks FERP!!! Took a bit of elbowgreasey (lol) but got it all working well together.

Ready for both rigs to trail rock now!!!!

Ferp you're def invited 😆 lol!!

 
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Thank you!!

Yeah the gearing is incredibly low! Crawls awesome!!! Def no high speed bouncing going on here. The portals have a 23/12t so also a 50% gearing reduction from stock Ryft ---- from there Turnigy 4250 big Outrunner is 375kv --- super slow speed.

Put a 1500kv motor in here and this rig would rip -- -also the ESC can go to 8s --- but that's not happening until I get the Vitavon ring & pinion installed and that's not happening probably until I break or damage the ones the Ryft metal axles came with. The portals reduce load on the Ring & Pinion so the basic set might hold up a little better who knows! So far so good!

I counted about 5.9 turns of pinion before one rotation of wheel -- top speed with 10 tooth in the TRX4 2-speed trans it can't be 3 maybe pushing 4mph. In low gear it crawls outstandingly slow maybe 2mph top speed -- even in high gear It can crawl slow.

My tires are getting old -- torn them twice now in the last two days and had to use a ton of CA and rubber patches to get them back up and running again. :( time to reTIRE these bad boys. They are off of a 1/5th RedCat Clawback "Rock Crusher" looking tire -- and still smaller than real RC4WD Rock Crushers.

So -- I ordered a set of real RC4WD 40 series Rock Crushers for it --- going to be a fair amount larger (and heavier) tire -- not super happy but it was that or go with BAJA MTZ's in 40 series which are closer in size to these Redcat tires -- 7.6inch tall. But the MTZ's are a harder compound than the Rock Crusher ---- and I gotta have my squishy rock crawler tires, so Crushers it is! We'll deal with the extra 1/2 inch of tire height - might have to bump the suspension height a wee bit.

10min trail run around the prop... skip to end I hit a bean trail in high gear at full speed -- baby bouncin'!!! lmao

 
Also forgot to post --- here was the issue with fitment on the Vitavon Ryft Portals to the Ryft Metal Axle set ---- the rear is not a direct fit, the mounting holes are about 1.5mm further apart on the Vitavon portals and the mounting sleeves male side on the portal that slides into the axle are 1/2mm narrower and therefore do not snuggly secure the axle from flexing, meaning 100% of impact would fall to the two M3 screws holding it EVEN if the holes were the correct mounting distance apart.

I solved both issues pretty easily --- drill out the portals to M3.5 and widen holes inward slightly to get fitment, and used JB Weld to take up gap space between the axle housing sleeve sections. (thought of using brass sleeves, but wanted more permanent, strong, and a fix it "now" solution was JB Weld lol). Can always take MAPP torch to the housings if I need to release the JB Weld at some point --- hopefully never have to!!

 
Lol and as always the F150 Raptor and Jeep Rubicon TJ were hacked with the intention of remaining fully interchangeable....

With the Raptor its somewhat smaller stance makes it look more like a MEGA Truck build but with the larger Jeep 1/6 New Bright it still looks pretty mega but alot less than the Raptor I think.

Its set on four M3 steel nuts and bolts and a bungy up front --- somewhat temporary - - still thinking about best quick swap mounting system -- right now at least it shares the same four M3 holes slots as the Raptor body does. Raptor mounts up front with Velcro though under the hood.

Can't decide how I like it better (thus the interchangeable all along!) Rubi, or Raptor.....

 
Went to the park and thrashed it a bit more --- really good crawler so far!! Did blow out the stock front ring & pinion gear though.

I haven't disassembled yet to inspect where failure took place but I am willing to take nearly all the blame to be honest. I knew full well the front wasn't quite right -- I think it needed shimmed but the only shim I had in 10mm was too thick so I went w/out altogether -- and that definitely led to failure.

Hands down the rear-end saw more strain during the drive and held up just fine -- smooth as butter, and on assembly the rear ring & pinion clearly didn't want a shim --- as close to 0 play as could get from my analysis.

So from here, i'm going to rebuild the front (with shims on hand now I got 10mm with varied thicknesses .1, .2 .3 and .5mm) and use the Vitavon helical cut hardended ring & pinion set. But I'm going to keep running the stock rear-end until it blows out on its own before I put the Vitavon set in the back. We'll test it good and see how hardy it really is, or isn't lol!

Ken in the Honcho now, so Barbie got a promotion and she's finally got her own ride lol!! I did a bunch of wild hill climbs (not on rocks though and unfortunately on video it really does not translate to much for watchin' as the incline justt doesn't come out on vid the way it is in real life I didn't think). Couple shorts below before i started grinding the front end. I drove it, and am still driving it until it grinds to a complete HAULT lol, or until i'm motivated enough to get wrenching on the repair.... next few days hopefully. I also want to put the inner tubes back in the tires --- I love the flatness of star cut foams but the steering is bad that way, real bad.



 
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