-
Welcome to RCCrawler Forums.
It looks like you're enjoying RCCrawler's Forums but haven't created an account yet. Why not take a minute to register for your own free account now? As a member you get free access to all of our forums and posts plus the ability to post your own messages, communicate directly with other members, and much more. Register now!
Already a member? Login at the top of this page to stop seeing this message.
timmy two times - toyzuki suzuki
- Thread starter badhoopty
- Start date
forgot to take a pic of making the dowel mounted cage, but all i did was cut it and insert some rod... when i get the collar clamps i'll just cut off however tall they are from the bottom posts and braze them on. going to have to trim a bit off one side of the collars since the cage is so close to the side of the body, but it will work out since i needed to figure out a way to push the sides of the body against the rockers.
and PLENTY of room for a 2200 3s on one side and the main electric components on the other. thinking i might use the fuel cell for all the lighting related stuff.
and PLENTY of room for a 2200 3s on one side and the main electric components on the other. thinking i might use the fuel cell for all the lighting related stuff.
Highmark
I wanna be Dave
Thats some rediculous work. You're knocking it out of the park.
thanks dude. "thumbsup"
its gonna be a neat little rig when its all done.
thinking a simple tube bed under the lexan bed rails, with a roll bar behind the cab and the angled bars of the roll bar going all the way back like this.
its gonna be a neat little rig when its all done.
thinking a simple tube bed under the lexan bed rails, with a roll bar behind the cab and the angled bars of the roll bar going all the way back like this.
i also totally dig this... which is basically the fastback look but with a couple more hoops. kinda thinking of making a removable section so i can run fastback or full top like this. ...part of the reason i have those open tubes in the interior cage.
i even know how i'd replicate the soft top but with a tshirt and some fiberglass resin.
i even know how i'd replicate the soft top but with a tshirt and some fiberglass resin.
got the collars brazed on the cage mounts. i put the grub screws at a 90° angle to the rails, but really shoulda put them at a 45 so they were a bit easier to get too... nbd but i wish i had thought it out before brazing them up...
you see how the rear cage tubes arent exactly verticle? its to match the lines of the cab, but my original idea of just brazing the cage mounts to the sliders wont work since if all 4 of those mounts are solid, the cage dowels wont be able to slip inside... which means i'll probably not braze the front mounts to the rails. not a huge thing but a bit of a DOH moment.
and i started on the tube bed, had it basically done but something got borked somewhere and i ended up having to cut it apart and rework a bunch to get it squared with the cage and body.
im on the fence on whether or not to braze the tube bed to the cage. i probably will but im gonna think about it. i originally wanted a somewhat light but scaled out comp rig, this is starting to take away from that. (ugly cross tubes are just there until i get the real tubes brazed in place.)
and to make things even more complicated and time consuming i bent up a 1/4" roll bar. i dont know if i'll braze it to the cage or just have it attach via the lightbar rods, or if i'll even use it at all. it absolutely makes the rig more complicated unless i just cut the top off the lexan body. also... just by the nature of my lightbar/roofrack design the roll bar will have visible m3 nuts on the back, which in a comp would work decent for running the winchline around and pull the rig sideways back on its wheels, but... theres gonna be visible nuts. i've scoped some different style nuts on mcmaster that might not look at bad as a typical m3 nut, so we'll see.
instead of trying to braze 4 pieces of fishmouthed 3/16 to the rollbar and keep everything straight, i took a center punch, a 1/8" drillbit, and my trusty dremel and very very carefully hogged out the rollbar so a piece of 3/16 tube could slide through. a bit tricky, and even more tricky when the holes arent at a right angle to the tube. i ****ing nailed it tho! i got both sides pretty much perfect. "thumbsup"
and thats it. gonna focus on finishing up my battery doors and hopefully something comes to mind on how to finish up the rear tubework without making it insanely complicated.
you see how the rear cage tubes arent exactly verticle? its to match the lines of the cab, but my original idea of just brazing the cage mounts to the sliders wont work since if all 4 of those mounts are solid, the cage dowels wont be able to slip inside... which means i'll probably not braze the front mounts to the rails. not a huge thing but a bit of a DOH moment.
and i started on the tube bed, had it basically done but something got borked somewhere and i ended up having to cut it apart and rework a bunch to get it squared with the cage and body.
im on the fence on whether or not to braze the tube bed to the cage. i probably will but im gonna think about it. i originally wanted a somewhat light but scaled out comp rig, this is starting to take away from that. (ugly cross tubes are just there until i get the real tubes brazed in place.)
and to make things even more complicated and time consuming i bent up a 1/4" roll bar. i dont know if i'll braze it to the cage or just have it attach via the lightbar rods, or if i'll even use it at all. it absolutely makes the rig more complicated unless i just cut the top off the lexan body. also... just by the nature of my lightbar/roofrack design the roll bar will have visible m3 nuts on the back, which in a comp would work decent for running the winchline around and pull the rig sideways back on its wheels, but... theres gonna be visible nuts. i've scoped some different style nuts on mcmaster that might not look at bad as a typical m3 nut, so we'll see.
instead of trying to braze 4 pieces of fishmouthed 3/16 to the rollbar and keep everything straight, i took a center punch, a 1/8" drillbit, and my trusty dremel and very very carefully hogged out the rollbar so a piece of 3/16 tube could slide through. a bit tricky, and even more tricky when the holes arent at a right angle to the tube. i ****ing nailed it tho! i got both sides pretty much perfect. "thumbsup"
and thats it. gonna focus on finishing up my battery doors and hopefully something comes to mind on how to finish up the rear tubework without making it insanely complicated.
forgot the little detail on the lightbar/roofrack. its going to have a 120x10mm cob on the front, and if i build it as a roofrack and not just a lightbar it will have cobs on the sides as well.
same with the rollbar, the build would be significantly less complicated if i just cut the roof off the body.
same with the rollbar, the build would be significantly less complicated if i just cut the roof off the body.
Last edited:
Highmark
I wanna be Dave
That is money! I'm really digging this!
hotwheels000
I wanna be Dave
Very nice tube work !
thanks dude. errr dudes... "thumbsup"
rear tubework is a bit of a mess right now but that will get cleaned up.
i think im not going to worry about being able to field strip the cage from the tub and body in 30 seconds. its still relatively easy to remove the assebled body, tub, and cage via the chassis rail mounts on the sliders if i had to.
rear tubework is a bit of a mess right now but that will get cleaned up.
i think im not going to worry about being able to field strip the cage from the tub and body in 30 seconds. its still relatively easy to remove the assebled body, tub, and cage via the chassis rail mounts on the sliders if i had to.
Last edited:
FIDDLESTICKS!
when building the cage i didnt take into account the width of the darn doorpanels i had already made, and the simple little 1/8" crossbraces between the front and rear cage hoops share the same space...
i made the doorpanels really thick so they took up the width of a scale door and not be lexan thin. im going to keep the braces and build a bit thinner door panels i guess. i freakin hope i can get the armrests and windowcranks off.
not a bad derp to make for a derp... at least i didnt mess up the rollbar.
when building the cage i didnt take into account the width of the darn doorpanels i had already made, and the simple little 1/8" crossbraces between the front and rear cage hoops share the same space...
i made the doorpanels really thick so they took up the width of a scale door and not be lexan thin. im going to keep the braces and build a bit thinner door panels i guess. i freakin hope i can get the armrests and windowcranks off.
not a bad derp to make for a derp... at least i didnt mess up the rollbar.
Statenheimer
Rock Stacker
Amazing work. The details in your cage and sliders are awesome.
And I am digging the brake rotors work stand too.
Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk
And I am digging the brake rotors work stand too.
Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk
fr8cture
I wanna be Dave
Dang I want this. So sweet man.
Sent from my VS986 using Tapatalk
Sent from my VS986 using Tapatalk
