ninja turtle
Rock Crawler
Use a center punch on the other side of the pin screw and the broken tip will pop out.
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The "Just shut up and build it" thread...
- Thread starter durok
- Start date
Use a center punch on the other side of the pin screw and the broken tip will pop out.
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Man I was waiting for someone on here who had the same thing pop with a solution!
Durok I don't have a sprung center punch as it disassembled itself during the move from KY to Texas. The sping is gone but i think I still have the rest if you want to borrow it. I may have to dig a bit to find it...
2mtech
RCC Addict
I would've thought that moving from KY would've helped it slide better rather than...oh, you meant Kentucky...nvm.
Looks like a viable solution, I'll have to keep it in mind next time I destroy one.
Looks like a viable solution, I'll have to keep it in mind next time I destroy one.
Awesome to see your builds underway! Looking forward to seeing how they turn out with all of the excellent hardware! One tip I can share is the torque twist for my Bomber improved significantly (almost gone) when I swapped out the rear shocks for Powerstroke Yeti rears + RC4WD ultimate scale shocks, with the second ones used as dampeners only; 30 wt in the Powerstrokes and 2k wt in the others. I’m also running the Vanquish sway bar, but I think this had a smaller impact. Enjoy the build and keep us updated!
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Thanks for the tip... (and sorry for the pun!)
I'll try it out after the neighbors have woken up - don't need to be hammering this late - but it's not stopping me from building! "thumbsup"
I'm rapidly discovering that I absolutely despise stainless steel hardware... the damn screws are stripping, so when I have to I'm just using the spare black oxide screws. :evil:
The Vanquish aluminum servo mount has a huge chunk of casting flash on it, guess I'll be filing it off.
Damn, I just realized I pulled an all-nighter - and at my age, I'll be regretting it big-time later! :shock:
(OK, funny thing - I fell asleep while composing this(!) - after I woke up I forgot I was in the middle of a post and was browsing the SSD site, looking up some info - and then browsed RCCrawler.com in a new browser tab! I'm now back to this post, and adding a bunch to it before hitting submit...)
:lmao:
Thanks a bunch, my friend!
I will see if I can take care of it myself with a less specialized tool, but if not, it can wait as I have...
... FINISHED (!) the second set of axles / links!!! 8)
Thank you, sir - for the ideas - I do have a spare set of chrome-bodied internal spring Xtra-Speed 100mm shocks that I was toying with adding to the rear of one of the two builds... I also have Hot Racing limiting straps, a stock Axial kit swaybar and a Vanquish v2 swaybar... I'll be trying some combinations out!
OK - a burst of pics and then a separate post for the new axles w/parts list for them:
Attachments
2mtech
RCC Addict
I was wondering if you'd lost your mind the rest of the way or had really quirky neighbors!! lol
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Axle set #2:
Dlux Fab plastic Modified BIG BEARING Wraith/Bomber AR60 OCP housings
Holmes Hobbies TorqueMaster spools for Axial
Axial HD differential gears - standard gearing
Axial front universal axles
Axial kit aluminum suspension links*
Axial kit bearings
Axial kit hex hubs (rear axle)
LockedUp RC Locked Up RC AR60 OCP OT rear axle shafts
Boom Racing Kronik Stainless Steel axle tubes for AR60 Wraith RR10 Bomber Yeti & Yeti Score
Vanquish Products differential bearing caps
Vanquish Products Wraith / Yeti HD trusses
Vanquish Products AR60 axle servo mount
Vanquish Products servo clamps
Vanquish Products Wraith / Yeti clamping lockouts
Vanquish Products knuckle bushings (1 Pair)
Vanquish Products Aluminum 12mm Hex Hubs (front axle)
Incision 4mm flanged wheel lock nuts
Hot Racing Aluminum axle lower shock mounts
SSD Titanium steering links (Part No. SSD00021 - Discontinued part)
SSD rear trailing arms for Yeti / RR10 / SMT10
SSD HD diff covers for Wraith / RR10
SSD Pro Aluminum C hubs for Wraith / RR10
SSD Pro Aluminum knuckles for Wraith / RR10
Team KNK Stainless Steel hardware**
TrakPower gear grease
* Gold kit links artificially aged/effed up by soaking in Greased Lightning - will be replaced by SS links later... all I cared about was sayin' goodbye to the gold!
** Team KNK SS hardware was mixed with Axial black oxide hardware where needed because of SS screws becoming stripped (meh...)
Again - I used Vanquish brass knuckle bushings, but they were a little too thick to use them top and bottom on each knuckle - so I used Axial black metal (steel?) bushings from the kit in the lower position (I tested with only the Axials and had a little bit of slop)
Didn't use ANY shims this time - strangely everything seems plenty tight without them! "thumbsup"
Also, again - I did this all by hand - not trusting myself to use my cordless bit driver at these stages of the build. I went a little easier on all the screw-tightening because I didn't want to have a repeat of a broken hex bit driver tip!
So... now I need to build ANOTHER transmission, and then start on shocks, etc. I may not have every single tiny bit of hardware needed to do the transmission / transfer case - for example, I'm pretty sure I'll need at least 1 or 2 more e-clips - so annoying, as I may need to drive all over hell's half-acre to find more.
Anyways, taking a break for a bit - I've only slept maybe 2 or 3 hours (I really have no idea, as it was just nodding off at the desk!) - here are the axle pics:
Dlux Fab plastic Modified BIG BEARING Wraith/Bomber AR60 OCP housings
Holmes Hobbies TorqueMaster spools for Axial
Axial HD differential gears - standard gearing
Axial front universal axles
Axial kit aluminum suspension links*
Axial kit bearings
Axial kit hex hubs (rear axle)
LockedUp RC Locked Up RC AR60 OCP OT rear axle shafts
Boom Racing Kronik Stainless Steel axle tubes for AR60 Wraith RR10 Bomber Yeti & Yeti Score
Vanquish Products differential bearing caps
Vanquish Products Wraith / Yeti HD trusses
Vanquish Products AR60 axle servo mount
Vanquish Products servo clamps
Vanquish Products Wraith / Yeti clamping lockouts
Vanquish Products knuckle bushings (1 Pair)
Vanquish Products Aluminum 12mm Hex Hubs (front axle)
Incision 4mm flanged wheel lock nuts
Hot Racing Aluminum axle lower shock mounts
SSD Titanium steering links (Part No. SSD00021 - Discontinued part)
SSD rear trailing arms for Yeti / RR10 / SMT10
SSD HD diff covers for Wraith / RR10
SSD Pro Aluminum C hubs for Wraith / RR10
SSD Pro Aluminum knuckles for Wraith / RR10
Team KNK Stainless Steel hardware**
TrakPower gear grease
* Gold kit links artificially aged/effed up by soaking in Greased Lightning - will be replaced by SS links later... all I cared about was sayin' goodbye to the gold!
** Team KNK SS hardware was mixed with Axial black oxide hardware where needed because of SS screws becoming stripped (meh...)
Again - I used Vanquish brass knuckle bushings, but they were a little too thick to use them top and bottom on each knuckle - so I used Axial black metal (steel?) bushings from the kit in the lower position (I tested with only the Axials and had a little bit of slop)
Didn't use ANY shims this time - strangely everything seems plenty tight without them! "thumbsup"
Also, again - I did this all by hand - not trusting myself to use my cordless bit driver at these stages of the build. I went a little easier on all the screw-tightening because I didn't want to have a repeat of a broken hex bit driver tip!
So... now I need to build ANOTHER transmission, and then start on shocks, etc. I may not have every single tiny bit of hardware needed to do the transmission / transfer case - for example, I'm pretty sure I'll need at least 1 or 2 more e-clips - so annoying, as I may need to drive all over hell's half-acre to find more.
Anyways, taking a break for a bit - I've only slept maybe 2 or 3 hours (I really have no idea, as it was just nodding off at the desk!) - here are the axle pics:
Attachments
Last edited:
Wow, I just noticed those links, I thought about de-golding mine with that stuff. Maybe rub them down with some steel wool or a scotch-bite pad and then hit them with a clear coat so they don't oxidize ?
There's probably a trick to getting them to de-anodize evenly - in my case, they appear to be diseased... ;-)
I don't really care, I would have ordered Incision links but they've been out of stock for ages.
There's another mfg selling made in the USA SS Bomber links for about the same price on fleaBay that I may order from, but then again - right now I am not spending any more money...
Unless I get some great news early next week!
Then a surprise is coming, as well. "thumbsup"
I don't really care, I would have ordered Incision links but they've been out of stock for ages.
There's another mfg selling made in the USA SS Bomber links for about the same price on fleaBay that I may order from, but then again - right now I am not spending any more money...
Unless I get some great news early next week!
Then a surprise is coming, as well. "thumbsup"
Could also try some metal polish and a buffing wheel on a Dremel?
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I appreciate the tips, but I seriously couldn't be bothered - they will get rock rash big-time first run out! :twisted:
They are still hard-coated, when I removed them from their "bath", I rubbed them down pretty well with a green scrub pad, it didn't do a thing.
If I polish off the coating completely they will be softer than they are now, and likely hang up more on the hard stuff... "thumbsup"
They are still hard-coated, when I removed them from their "bath", I rubbed them down pretty well with a green scrub pad, it didn't do a thing.
If I polish off the coating completely they will be softer than they are now, and likely hang up more on the hard stuff... "thumbsup"
I noticed he's created a new website recently:
https://jecracing.com/collections/j-e-c-racing-products
And on his FB page there is a post:
"JEC Racing
July 1 at 6:43 PM ·
Baseball tourney all weekend and finals tom. So what better time than Sunday night to run some jec racing parts!"
I'd try the new site, if he is currently making new parts, maybe he is responding better on there...
(Not sure if you've found that site on your own already, but HTH!)
Zka17
Rock Stacker
I think I was lucky... I reached him on FB, and he took my order there - cool stuff is being prepared! 
I recently purchased some parts from the website, and it was a bit of a process. I'm generally a patient person, and we're talking about toy trucks, so it's not a big deal. I'll probably order from another next time though.
I ordered suspension links first, and later ordered steering links because I decided I wanted to have it all matching - and I'll admit there was some delay getting it all handled.
Very small businesses sometimes have these issues.
I'm glad to have a set, but I may go with White Knuckle R/C Rock Crawlers / American Machine Works, Ohio for my next purchase of SS links.
Not regretting the SuperShafty/JEC trailing arms at all, and I think those are more easily available.
Very small businesses sometimes have these issues.
I'm glad to have a set, but I may go with White Knuckle R/C Rock Crawlers / American Machine Works, Ohio for my next purchase of SS links.
Not regretting the SuperShafty/JEC trailing arms at all, and I think those are more easily available.
I was at a standstill because I needed some 4mm e-clips, 2x11mm steel pins, and a slipper clutch spring...
Called all 3 LHS in Austin, no one had the Axial parts - called San Antonio to a shop as well, no dice.
Got up and went to one of them, nearly 45 minutes of browsing tiny spare parts baggies from all the brands in stock...
... and I found parts from Helion and Traxxas that should work, and for less money than if I had bought the Axial parts!
Stopped at Harbor Freight and picked up a super-cheap "Automatic Center Punch" out of brass and steel... we'll see if it helps with removing the broken MIP hex wrench tip.
Called all 3 LHS in Austin, no one had the Axial parts - called San Antonio to a shop as well, no dice.
Got up and went to one of them, nearly 45 minutes of browsing tiny spare parts baggies from all the brands in stock...
... and I found parts from Helion and Traxxas that should work, and for less money than if I had bought the Axial parts!
Stopped at Harbor Freight and picked up a super-cheap "Automatic Center Punch" out of brass and steel... we'll see if it helps with removing the broken MIP hex wrench tip.
Built 2nd transmission, transfer case, and a set of Axial WildBoar WB8 universal driveshafts using STRC CNC-machined aluminum center driveshaft splines and the CarterFab WB8 HD Driveshaft Retainer Rings shown in the post below:
http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/axles-trannys-t-case/512978-cfm-wb8-hd-driveshaft-retainer-rings.html
These are unfortunately long-since discontinued (from what I remember, the machinist that CarterFab contracted for this part was no longer able to fill orders), but I lucked out and scored one of the last sets available from TCS Crawlers way back near the beginning of this thread - this SHOULD make this set of driveshafts last a very long time!
The transmission is nearly stock kit Axial RR10 with steel internal gears, Incision motor mount and cam, Hot Racing aluminum vented slipper spur hubs (on both sides of the spur) - starting out with the kit ratio of 64t/12t...
Bolted it up to the stock skid and attached the axles, then because of geometry reasons swapped the steering knuckles with the ones from the other axle set - SSD HD D60 installed now instead of SSD Pro. It just moves the links down lower, allowing for better clearance with the taller ProModeler servo case.
ProModeler DS470BLHV servo and Holmes Hobbies Revolver 1800kv Outrunner sensorless brushless motor installed, Castle Creations Mamba X and Futaba rx next up, after some soldering & wire routing.
Might install my Traxxas Big-Bores w/Axial grey painted replacement springs (they are the same rates as stock kit springs, just didn't want to use any blue!) on this setup for now, also have Gmade XD Diaphragms w/Hard springs.
Then comes the cage assembly and body panels.
Gotta say I'm exhausted, have redone much of the build repeatedly because aftermarket parts manufacturers don't ever include instructions... and because of silly mistakes, likely because I've built so much of it in the middle of the night.
I've heard many people say building a kit stock first is the way to go - and I can see why, although even the kit build instructions are not that great.
My previous build were lots of Tamiyas, and a Losi & Team Associated or two. I've also installed many hopups and rebuilt my previous RCs (including nitro and electric Traxxas vehicles)- and practically completely disassembled and reassembled my Ascender K10 while upgrading it.
I'll say the Bomber is somewhat of a chore compared to them...
I still have quite a ways to go, and it is progressing quite slowly. However, there is at least light at the end of the tunnel!
Because of my previous issues (broken hardware and tools), the two builds I had planned are not proceeding as I thought - this current build is going to be a combination of the two, and I will likely spend some time driving and tuning it before I can go back and fix the problems and return to the original direction.
At that point I only really need to order one item to be ready for the dual-Bomber-based-build-plan, and I will swap the higher-end axles and transmission w/MIP shafts to the cage, and this second set of axles and transmission will be bolted up to my Xtreme Racing carbon fiber chassis rails and have a lexan bodyshell mounted on it.
Pics of current status:
http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/axles-trannys-t-case/512978-cfm-wb8-hd-driveshaft-retainer-rings.html
These are unfortunately long-since discontinued (from what I remember, the machinist that CarterFab contracted for this part was no longer able to fill orders), but I lucked out and scored one of the last sets available from TCS Crawlers way back near the beginning of this thread - this SHOULD make this set of driveshafts last a very long time!
The transmission is nearly stock kit Axial RR10 with steel internal gears, Incision motor mount and cam, Hot Racing aluminum vented slipper spur hubs (on both sides of the spur) - starting out with the kit ratio of 64t/12t...
Bolted it up to the stock skid and attached the axles, then because of geometry reasons swapped the steering knuckles with the ones from the other axle set - SSD HD D60 installed now instead of SSD Pro. It just moves the links down lower, allowing for better clearance with the taller ProModeler servo case.
ProModeler DS470BLHV servo and Holmes Hobbies Revolver 1800kv Outrunner sensorless brushless motor installed, Castle Creations Mamba X and Futaba rx next up, after some soldering & wire routing.
Might install my Traxxas Big-Bores w/Axial grey painted replacement springs (they are the same rates as stock kit springs, just didn't want to use any blue!) on this setup for now, also have Gmade XD Diaphragms w/Hard springs.
Then comes the cage assembly and body panels.
Gotta say I'm exhausted, have redone much of the build repeatedly because aftermarket parts manufacturers don't ever include instructions... and because of silly mistakes, likely because I've built so much of it in the middle of the night.
I've heard many people say building a kit stock first is the way to go - and I can see why, although even the kit build instructions are not that great.
My previous build were lots of Tamiyas, and a Losi & Team Associated or two. I've also installed many hopups and rebuilt my previous RCs (including nitro and electric Traxxas vehicles)- and practically completely disassembled and reassembled my Ascender K10 while upgrading it.
I'll say the Bomber is somewhat of a chore compared to them...
I still have quite a ways to go, and it is progressing quite slowly. However, there is at least light at the end of the tunnel!
Because of my previous issues (broken hardware and tools), the two builds I had planned are not proceeding as I thought - this current build is going to be a combination of the two, and I will likely spend some time driving and tuning it before I can go back and fix the problems and return to the original direction.
At that point I only really need to order one item to be ready for the dual-Bomber-based-build-plan, and I will swap the higher-end axles and transmission w/MIP shafts to the cage, and this second set of axles and transmission will be bolted up to my Xtreme Racing carbon fiber chassis rails and have a lexan bodyshell mounted on it.
Pics of current status:
Attachments
Looks good, those Promodler 470's are stunning works of art.
WOWZERS ! :shock:
You tossed in a 1800kv Revolver "thumbsup" those outrunners have wicked, angry torque. John should rename and market those to "Axle Breakers" :lmao:
The low speed control is amazing on them, you'll have fun with it. Just be sure to get some good vids of it when you finish. The sound that motor makes on a real slow crawl with a load on it is crazy.
I am soooo intrigued with the revolvers and am wanting to pick one up for my newest TRX4 build. Seen just a few clips of them on YouTube and some testing that John Holmes did. I've never seen or heard one in person.
...Intrigued
WOWZERS ! :shock:
You tossed in a 1800kv Revolver "thumbsup" those outrunners have wicked, angry torque. John should rename and market those to "Axle Breakers" :lmao:
The low speed control is amazing on them, you'll have fun with it. Just be sure to get some good vids of it when you finish. The sound that motor makes on a real slow crawl with a load on it is crazy.
I am soooo intrigued with the revolvers and am wanting to pick one up for my newest TRX4 build. Seen just a few clips of them on YouTube and some testing that John Holmes did. I've never seen or heard one in person.
...Intrigued
