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The "Just shut up and build it" thread...
- Thread starter durok
- Start date
2mtech
RCC Addict
Well...maybe...unless you want some real speed.
Having now run mine, I tried a 2S first with the 3300kv HH Trailmaster Pro and Mamba X set up so I didn't destroy it immediately, and was not impressed at all. I would consider it slow, comparable to my SCX10's on 3S.
Changing to a 3S helped (of course), but even with the high kv motor, stock diff gears and stock kit 12/64 pinion & spur, I really didn't consider it all that fast. I think my 2WD Slash is faster.
Seriously considering the two speed now.
Keep in mind these are crawling motors for crawler trucks on a crawling forum.
20mph is already very fast for these solid axle trucks.
I know the puller pro XL can output serious speed in a yeti / rock rey.
More than that you have to go to the basher style rc cars like the slash, stampede, or any racing truck like the losi / associated or tekno truggy / buggy
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2mtech
RCC Addict
That's true, of course...I suppose my perspective is a little skewed. ;-)
20 mph is really an unrealistic "scale" top speed for a Bomber (160 mph @ 1:1, the wheelbase is too short to support that speed), 15 mph being more accurate (120 mph @ 1:1), do to reality that Bombers are actually 8th scale, not 10th. The problem with them not handling any speed is in part to the non-scale ~45 inch tall rock bouncer tires that come on it and that 99% of the owners run. Randy runs 37's in every pic I've seen, just like every other class 4400 rig that finishes well at events like the KOH, SCORE or BIDT, so its time to be stretching those 1.9s on your 2.2 wheels to keep true to the 1:1. I'll probably get so flaming for this statement, but......... a Bomber really isn't a really a crawler anyhow. Anyhow, no more distraction from this nice build.......
Durok, how about some updated assembled pics so I can drool over your $$$$$$$ rig? I'm guessing you're approaching the $1500 mark, right?
:twisted::twisted::twisted: My motor is the Holmes Hobbies Puller Pro 540-L 4100kv "R-type" :twisted::twisted::twisted:
Running it on 3S only!
I have underdrive front & rear to calm things down a bit...
I just finished the transmission last night!
Had a job interview and some errands today, will be soldering a bit and building shocks this evening, and with any luck final assembly of the cage & setting up the electronics may happen during the holiday tomorrow.
My wheel and tire sets for this rig vary from 4.33" tall RC4WD Dune T/A 2.2" tires (they closely resemble the tires you see on Slawson's rig when he is out in the desert - basically trophy-truck ties) to the kit BFG Baja's (5.4") to massively oversized Team Losi Maxxis Creepy Crawlers (right about 5.8" tall) for when I am pretending that I have a scale rock bouncer...
I also have two 1.9" setups to try if I feel like banging up the SSD aluminum axle housings some more - RC4WD Ground Hawg II's on LURC Hutchinson Command ring-equipped TrailReadys and Vaterra Ascender TSL Super Swampers on some Injora alloys.
Finally, I have a set of tires that I can't get to mount up on my Incision Method MR307 beadlocks - they are some basher tires I picked up from Team DC, Nitto Mud Grappler copies, and their beads are too thin and a bit stretched out...
...so I may be purchasing CI plastic Double Deuce 6 Bolt glue-ons and some SLW hubs for them.
That leaves me with another "yet-unknown" tire option to mount on the Methods... I haven't decided what to get for them, I truly love my little 1.7" RC4WD Goodyear MT/Rs so much I may get a 2.2" set.
(Let's not forget that when this rig is finished, and I have driven it a time or two, I will need to begin on Bomber #2, which is going to be COMPLETELY different! So, these wheels and tires will be shared with that build)
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Dune T/As are supposed to be Baja T/As, but scale to 35's. KR3s are quite popular now, but I think the Proline 1.9 version (37" scale) is actually a KR2, fewer, bigger knobs than the 3's. Proper scale tires probably suck performance wise, but hey, they look good!! "thumbsup" Banging up the aluminum housings would be tough to swallow initially, so after that first scratch it should be "on", pin it to win it. How much of a pain was the trans to assemble? As a 2 speed, would it be a good option? And the job opportunity, that looking promising for you? Pictures now..........
2mtech
RCC Addict
Fingers crossed, I hope that works out for you! I know it's been awhile.
Oh, and good luck with the job interview too!
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Zka17
Rock Stacker
I've had a chance to drive mine on a track today, and the hi-low transmission came quite handy... anyhow, you can built those gears in later if you need them!
Please, keep sharing details/pics about your built - then about the second one too... ;-)
I'm not worried about scratching anything up, although I did pay some attention to the slipperiness of my parts picks - If something is dragging, throttle will be applied! ;-)
The trans housing was pretty hard to close up, could get it to where there was about an 1/8th of an inch to go, and couldn't get it any further until I got creative and tapped on the ends of the shafts with a hammer! Tolerances are TIGHT in there... I'd think it would make an excellent base for a 2-speed as it has no slop and no flex, making for cleaner shifts. Maybe someday?
...and I will definitely post pics from the rest of the steps, there are more "overbuilt" parts coming.
I will attach a pic of the Dune T/A setup at the bottom of this post!
Fingers crossed, I hope that works out for you! I know it's been awhile.
Oh, and good luck with the job interview too!
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Thanks, it was a good interview and I am trying not to hold my breath, as there's a holiday tomorrow! 8)
Most definitely going to keep posting up, and same goes for #2... "thumbsup"
RC4WD Dune T/A 2.2" tires on Chanquish wheels - not going to be used a whole lot, maybe if I go out and find a big area with a lot of relatively smooth hardpack to get some drifting action!:
Attachments
Bad news... broken MIP 1.5mm hex driver tip into MIP driveshaft set screw (trying to loosen and redo after Locktite had dried), also broken screw head into Hot bodies aluminum skidplate...
Going to have to take a step back, take a breather.
Not yet sure how to rectify this incredibly annoying situation.
:evil:
Going to have to take a step back, take a breather.
Not yet sure how to rectify this incredibly annoying situation.
:evil:
I read that acetone works to dissolve loctite or put a soldering iron on the screw to heat it up so the loctite looses its grip. Welcome to my world, 5 steps forward, 2 steps back. Be patient so you don't destroy anything.
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2mtech
RCC Addict
I bought a 1.5mm EZ Out for the same situation...don't waste your money. Wound up drilling and tapping to a 2mm thru pin.
I became a fan of 2mm pins quickly.
I became a fan of 2mm pins quickly.
2mtech
RCC Addict
Gotta work off the rest of that bad karma...
Back home from soggy BBQ party at my brudder's house (great jalapeno sausage!)...
Power's back on, thankfully - before I left my for the party I had to "tinkle" - and since I couldn't see a darn thing and preferred to have my hands free for that task, I got creative and looped my MTB headlight mount through a belt loop of my Levi's - and let my crotch light up the way through my pitch-black apartment and took care of business.
TMI, I know - but at least it was the bright spot of my day..... (groan)
:lmao:
Power's back on, thankfully - before I left my for the party I had to "tinkle" - and since I couldn't see a darn thing and preferred to have my hands free for that task, I got creative and looped my MTB headlight mount through a belt loop of my Levi's - and let my crotch light up the way through my pitch-black apartment and took care of business.
TMI, I know - but at least it was the bright spot of my day..... (groan)
:lmao:
2mtech
RCC Addict
Since I had sold off one of my folding knives for some spare cash, I allowed myself to spend some money today...
I may be able to fix the MIP driveshaft situation by ordering a couple replacement parts direct from the mfg, and today I purchased a Dynamite 1.5mm hex driver (to replace the broken MIP).
While I was at my LHS I noticed they had finally got in some shock shaft pliers, from ProTek RC - and they have the ball-end assist feature as well.
Should help with the 8 shocks I will be assembling for the 2 builds!
I may be able to fix the MIP driveshaft situation by ordering a couple replacement parts direct from the mfg, and today I purchased a Dynamite 1.5mm hex driver (to replace the broken MIP).
While I was at my LHS I noticed they had finally got in some shock shaft pliers, from ProTek RC - and they have the ball-end assist feature as well.
Should help with the 8 shocks I will be assembling for the 2 builds!
Attachments
Shack shaft pliers are sure handy "thumbsup" The ball remover/installer pin is worth it's weight in gold.
I just used mine today. I picked up spring cups for the King shocks from American Machine Works.
I would contact MIP, I just went and looked because I have a bunch of MIP tools and was curious.
MIP Warranty from their site
LIMITED LIFETIME WARRANTY:
MIP stands behind every wrench and hex driver! MIP quality assurance promises that all wrenches and hex drivers are free from defects in workmanship or manufacturing for the life of the tool. Defective parts that have not been rendered defective through improper use or natural wear will be warrantied as follows: MIP Speed Tips™ re-tipped or replaced and MIP Hex Drivers re-tipped in your existing handle or replaced at MIP's discretion for only $10.00 each including USPS shipping and handling within Continental USA, just $15.00 to Hawaii, Alaska and International customers. Send them directly into the MIP factory. MIP encourages you to insure the package for the replacement value of the tools. We are not responsible for products that do not make it to us. Any additional indemnification will be strictly denied. Due to the nature of normal use of tools, wrenches broken by the customer, altered, used for prying, impact, or otherwise misused will not be replaced or re-tipped. In such cases, the customer will be charged for the cost of returning the received item.
All warranty requests are subject to inspection and are at the discretion of MIP.
I just used mine today. I picked up spring cups for the King shocks from American Machine Works.
I would contact MIP, I just went and looked because I have a bunch of MIP tools and was curious.
MIP Warranty from their site
LIMITED LIFETIME WARRANTY:
MIP stands behind every wrench and hex driver! MIP quality assurance promises that all wrenches and hex drivers are free from defects in workmanship or manufacturing for the life of the tool. Defective parts that have not been rendered defective through improper use or natural wear will be warrantied as follows: MIP Speed Tips™ re-tipped or replaced and MIP Hex Drivers re-tipped in your existing handle or replaced at MIP's discretion for only $10.00 each including USPS shipping and handling within Continental USA, just $15.00 to Hawaii, Alaska and International customers. Send them directly into the MIP factory. MIP encourages you to insure the package for the replacement value of the tools. We are not responsible for products that do not make it to us. Any additional indemnification will be strictly denied. Due to the nature of normal use of tools, wrenches broken by the customer, altered, used for prying, impact, or otherwise misused will not be replaced or re-tipped. In such cases, the customer will be charged for the cost of returning the received item.
All warranty requests are subject to inspection and are at the discretion of MIP.
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Thanks, but I was all over their site earlier - because tomorrow I need to call them and see if I can order the replacement parts I need for the MIP driveshafts.
I saw that I wouldn't meet the free replacement criteria, soooo.... I'd have to pay $10 and WAIT for the dang thing.
For the same money, I picked up the Dynamite - and I checked online to make sure the mfg at least claims it's "hardened" and it's also nice to see that the tip is replaceable.
The handle is not nearly as comfortable as an MIP, not so much because of its shape & material - more because it's shorter overall.
However, not being as long means I have less leverage - which means I'm less likely to get all ham-fisted and stupidly break it as well! "thumbsup"
I'm currently building front & rear AR60 OCP axle set nummer zwei... (#2) ;-)
I saw that I wouldn't meet the free replacement criteria, soooo.... I'd have to pay $10 and WAIT for the dang thing.
For the same money, I picked up the Dynamite - and I checked online to make sure the mfg at least claims it's "hardened" and it's also nice to see that the tip is replaceable.
The handle is not nearly as comfortable as an MIP, not so much because of its shape & material - more because it's shorter overall.
However, not being as long means I have less leverage - which means I'm less likely to get all ham-fisted and stupidly break it as well! "thumbsup"
I'm currently building front & rear AR60 OCP axle set nummer zwei... (#2) ;-)
