Harvo
I wanna be Dave
Truck is looking great. Is that chassis a 50/50 bias? I'm liking your balance point. Can you take a bodiless pic of your truck from the side? I'd like to see your link angles.
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Stubs **Dlux axle** superlite
- Thread starter stubs179
- Start date
Chaotic Crawlers
I wanna be Dave
What is your ride height stubs?
That's an interesting idea that you did on the rear upper mount.
Did you do this because you had to due to your chassis design or did you do it in purpose?
That's an interesting idea that you did on the rear upper mount.
Did you do this because you had to due to your chassis design or did you do it in purpose?
I will be modifying the rear mount. I think the current lowest point (when mounted as intended) is plenty high up. I am going to make holes further down so nobody should have to modify anything and be able to have holes as high up as a Bully and lower than an XR.
For us guys that like to run "heavy" in the 4lb range, we should be able to run all the way up "Bully range" and be fine. My car has never driven better with it that high and I plan on keeping it there.
The problem comes in when you try and run super lite, like 3.5lb or less. You dont have enough weight on the axles or in the chassis to make your car flex. Its funny because you see somebody move their links down because they are fighting this issue and then everybody in the world, even 5+lb guys follow suit when its completely not necessary.
Lets see if I can try and explain...
Jeeps and many other cars have sway bars. I think most can understand what they are used for. They help reduce a vehicles body roll. To try and keep things simple,... you can take a Jeep TJ, take the sway bar off when your off road and it will flex. When you hit the streets again, put it back on and it corners much better.
If you have your upper links higher up like on my car, its kinda like having an invisible sway bar on. It can reduce flex and stop body roll. Since I run so much knuckle weight, its not really an issue as my car still flexs fine.
If you are like Stubs and you have practically no weight anywhere, this invisible sway bar is really hurting you. Your suspension no longer wants to work. Tires get stuck in the air, suspension does not want to compress etc,. In order for Stubs to take this effect away, he needs to lower his upper links to free it up. This is called lowering your roll center. Its just one of a couple of ways to do it.
Thats about as simple as I can think to explain it. Also, if you do lower your uppers at the axle, you will want to keep the angle of the upper link the same so, you will probably want to lower it at the chassis also.
Harvo
I wanna be Dave
Erik... I believe you know much more about this than I do... but mine seems to act different than you describe. Maybe because My links are mounted higher at the chassis end.... but when I'm at the top at the axle, the truck flows and feels loose.
As I move them down at the axle, it climbs much better, but it seems to stiffen or even "lock out" the front end on off camber breakovers. (Lifts tires more). I run about half way down to get the best of both worlds.
Looking from the side, my uppers travel from the chassis down to my mounting position on the axle.
Stubs appears to have his level or even going up from the chassis to the rear mount.
If you move the uppers down the same amount at the chassis and the axle, does the handling change for other reasons or does it stay the same?
Thanks... Upper movement is always tough for me to grasp.
As I move them down at the axle, it climbs much better, but it seems to stiffen or even "lock out" the front end on off camber breakovers. (Lifts tires more). I run about half way down to get the best of both worlds.
Looking from the side, my uppers travel from the chassis down to my mounting position on the axle.
Stubs appears to have his level or even going up from the chassis to the rear mount.
If you move the uppers down the same amount at the chassis and the axle, does the handling change for other reasons or does it stay the same?
Thanks... Upper movement is always tough for me to grasp.
Well, I spent all day trying to get my new sidewinders to work but they beat me! I'm going to meet up with scattman tomorrow and hook them up to a castlelink. If that doesn't work, idk back to the FXR's for now I guess?
Harvo,
At ride height they are almost level but a little up. At full extension they go up to the chassis quite a bit.
So you have more separation at the chassis than the axle?
Harvo,
At ride height they are almost level but a little up. At full extension they go up to the chassis quite a bit.
So you have more separation at the chassis than the axle?
Harvo
I wanna be Dave
No..i have more separation at the axle, but i guess both the lowers and uppers are farther from the ground than yours. I have 1" separation at the chassis like you.
Thank you"thumbsup"
Ride height is:
-fully extended 3.6"
-fully compressed 2.1"
-ride height. 2.75"
I also had to put the FXR's back in. So I put them in a little cleaner this time. I shortened some of the wires and put them on the battery mount. Much nicer.
I also put on some LW knuckles off my super and a new tierod.
It's sitting at 3lb 3oz even.
It is funny how much it lands like this while I'm driving. No joke
I also put on some LW knuckles off my super and a new tierod.
It's sitting at 3lb 3oz even.
It is funny how much it lands like this while I'm driving. No joke
That could work too!
Running some numbers on my old Berg setup...
If I were to horizontally separate the upper links at the axle a total of 1.5" between them, my roll center drops from 3in to 2in high.
To get the same effect by lowering my upper links (but keeping the anti squat the same) I would need to drop them about 1.5" both at the axle and at the chassis.
If my thinking is correct, it seems like it would be MUCH, MUCH more effective to take the triangulation out of the upper links rather than dropping them down in height.
I dont want to play like I know much about link geo. I thought that I knew quite a bit coming into the RC world from 1:1. Once I started playing with RC and the geo, I found I dont know anything. Right when I think I am getting it, I just realize how much I dont know.
I think there is more to it than just simply equally lowering the uppers. Anti squat should also play a huge part and when you say it makes your front do different things, that could be just exposing some problems that are in your front end? I dont know. This is why I try to make all my parts with tons of adjustment. I think there are just too many options and things to figure out.
Yeah, much nicer and cleaner!
What are you using for your battery mount?
I cut a piece out of an old Grave Digger body"thumbsup". It's a huge body so I've made a lot of crap out of it over the years.
Clean, simple and light.
Funny!
It looks like it fits so good there! I have not wanted to try the battery on the front just because it looks like they dont fit well on Bergs and they are so high up in the air. That screw hole in the upper mount really is in a good place too.
It looks like it fits so good there! I have not wanted to try the battery on the front just because it looks like they dont fit well on Bergs and they are so high up in the air. That screw hole in the upper mount really is in a good place too.
Got a backside pic to show how close it gets to the springs?
Ugh! More stuff to make now!
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