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Building my dad a 5th dimension berg

I didn’t get much done today, but did finish up the front axle. I started by making a servo mount out of 3mm carbon. It is held to the axle with 3 screws and red loctite.

C1E655CE-4EE4-4EFF-B737-992A0DFD66AC.jpg

37E5B350-7699-4315-B594-E7F4CA188AC6.jpg

Then I fired up the dremel again and made a battery tray for behind the motor. It will it will use a piece of inner tube for a strap aswell as get covered in velcro.

C49A3489-EDD6-4AB6-A8DD-66F3CE86288F.jpg

I also added steering stops to the axles using a 3mm spacer and button head screw which can be seen in the previous pictures. I figured out that a straight xr10 tie rod is an almost perfect fit with the Dlux knuckles and his proper ackerman arms. I put a slight bend at both ends to bring the tie rod closer to the gearbox and called it good.

1D1F297B-B5D6-4A0F-834C-3875B3D0AA3E.jpg

This might be the last update for a couple days. I have a comp this weekend and I need to make some tires and do some maintanence to my personal trucks.
 
Rear axle ended up being a touch under 13 ounces with the motor. Not the lightest by any means but pretty good considering it’s all metal with motors that are relatively heavy. Speaking of motors, decided to go with some 30t big wire 540s with turned down cans. After running lots of different shorter and smaller diameter motors I feel the weight loss isn’t worth the low end power and control.

View attachment 377307

I totally agree with this. The set of Team motors i had Eddie at Brood build me are in standard size cans (i think?). I think smooth start up is the most important thing when crawling and bigger can are just better. Big cans and skewed arms!!"thumbsup"

Oh, by the way...Have you tried the single bend links? If so, how are you liking them?
 
Comp? Wheres this comp?

Richmond this Sunday, Folsom next Sunday

I totally agree with this. The set of Team motors i had Eddie at Brood build me are in standard size cans (i think?). I think smooth start up is the most important thing when crawling and bigger can are just better. Big cans and skewed arms!!"thumbsup"

Oh, by the way...Have you tried the single bend links? If so, how are you liking them?

I’ve been running a really shallow bend (like less than 1inch vertical height difference) rear lower for a long time. My xr needs a double bend lower link though since the shocks and links are in the same hole. I’m going single bend front and rear on both this truck and my superlite truck which I still need to build.
 
The brass weight holders are actually supposed to go on the other
way, but you can probably get away with running them that way...
 
The brass weight holders are actually supposed to go on the other
way, but you can probably get away with running them that way...

With the hub that’s on it they will definitely need to be flipped (see post 16 :flipoff:)

To add some tech for people who may not know. If you look closely you can see I flipped the knuckles upside down from how Dlux says to put them together so I have more clearance for the loaded dice weight at the bottom. I just learned this trick recently, and while it only works on non 8 deg, it allows for the button head screws to be at the bottom, which fit into the loaded dice weight better
 
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With the hub that’s on it they will definitely need to be flipped (see post 16 :flipoff:)

To add some tech for people who may not know. If you look closely you can see I flipped the knuckles upside down from how Dlux says to put them together so I have more clearance for the loaded dice weight at the bottom. I just learned this trick recently, and while it only works on non 8 deg, it allows for the button head screws to be at the bottom, which fit into the loaded dice weight better



I think stubs thought that one up. I set up greengo that way, makes it easier to deal with the brass dice for damned sure. Delrin are no big deal since Erik cuts those correctly. :lol:
 
I didn’t get much done today, but did finish up the front axle. I started by making a servo mount out of 3mm carbon. It is held to the axle with 3 screws and red loctite.

View attachment 377316

View attachment 377315

Then I fired up the dremel again and made a battery tray for behind the motor. It will it will use a piece of inner tube for a strap aswell as get covered in velcro.

View attachment 377317

I also added steering stops to the axles using a 3mm spacer and button head screw which can be seen in the previous pictures. I figured out that a straight xr10 tie rod is an almost perfect fit with the Dlux knuckles and his proper ackerman arms. I put a slight bend at both ends to bring the tie rod closer to the gearbox and called it good.

View attachment 377318

This might be the last update for a couple days. I have a comp this weekend and I need to make some tires and do some maintanence to my personal trucks.
I still really dig the older style Berg cases cleaned up and shaved down....I’ve got an old set I’ve been eyeballin again and a set of RCBros tubes your probably missing too....it’s good to see you back
 
I still really dig the older style Berg cases cleaned up and shaved down....I’ve got an old set I’ve been eyeballin again and a set of RCBros tubes your probably missing too....it’s good to see you back

Thanks Brandon. I still have another set here, but I wanted to use these. I don’t know why but I’ve always liked these tubes.
 
Had some time today to work on it today. Since it’s pretty much impossible to find vanquish ti links anymore I kinda guessed on some lower link length measurements and sent the info to hardcore rc over on facebook. I ended up having to put a bit more bend in the links then I wanted, especially the rears, but I think it should be fine for my dad. The extra clearance might actually help him while he is learning how to pick his lines. I made the uppers myself using 1/8 ti, a hand drill, and a 6-32 die.

6883F2C0-5D36-45C0-94E5-7034FE28BC75.jpg

31C8D174-5EC5-44C0-B98B-D311D47AC7C4.jpg

I’m not entirely happy with how the rear axle is sitting. I will probably play with the lower link mounts on the axle to get it to sit more to my liking.

Incase anyone was wondering about the weight, it is currently sitting at 3.8ish pounds. Only things missing are 2 speed controllers, rx, bec, and battery. I still have steel hardware everywhere but the chassis aswell as a couple of other places to cut weight if I wanted. The loaded dice are still empty, so that’s up to 8 ounces of tungsten that I could potentially add to the knuckles aswell.

4FBC21F1-C5AF-4BD0-9A63-06F887093EC6.jpg
 
I think stubs thought that one up. I set up greengo that way, makes it easier to deal with the brass dice for damned sure. Delrin are no big deal since Erik cuts those correctly. :lol:

I’m sure some people did it by accident before I did it. I’m just too lazy to grind that much.

Had some time today to work on it today. Since it’s pretty much impossible to find vanquish ti links anymore I kinda guessed on some lower link length measurements and sent the info to hardcore rc over on facebook. I ended up having to put a bit more bend in the links then I wanted, especially the rears, but I think it should be fine for my dad. The extra clearance might actually help him while he is learning how to pick his lines. I made the uppers myself using 1/8 ti, a hand drill, and a 6

I’m not entirely happy with how the rear axle is sitting. I will probably play with the lower link mounts on the axle to get it to sit more to my liking.

Incase anyone was wondering about the weight, it is currently sitting at 3.8ish pounds. Only things missing are 2 speed controllers, rx, bec, and battery. I still have steel hardware everywhere but the chassis aswell as a couple of other places to cut weight if I wanted. The loaded dice are still empty, so that’s up to 8 ounces of tungsten that I could potentially add to the knuckles aswell.

View attachment 377497

Looks good man. You could always throw a Dlux “replacement” case on the rear to suck the motor up against the axle tube. I think they are pretty cheap for just the gear case? I love being able to drop the motor without sacrificing ground clearance.
 
Looks good man. You could always throw a Dlux “replacement” case on the rear to suck the motor up against the axle tube. I think they are pretty cheap for just the gear case? I love being able to drop the motor without sacrificing ground clearance.

I’ve thought about it, my ocd wouldn’t let me do just the rear though. Depending how much he enjoys it and uses it will dictate what I actually do but either way it will probably wait until I have to rebuild it. I did end up rotating the lower link mounts and lowering the motor from the pictures posted. It’s definitely let better now, I think it should be fine.
 
Nice, glad I could help lol. Axles look very similar to the axles on your Dad's rig.
Don Hughes has a chump RT chassis it's Doncrawla's old chassis it had xr axles. If your looking for one.

Sent from my SM-J737V using Tapatalk
 
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