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Stubs **Dlux axle** superlite

It'll never work....................













As good as mine!:mrgreen::mrgreen::mrgreen:


Looks good stubs.
Now go hit that 2lb mark!!"thumbsup"
 
It'll never work....................













As good as mine!:mrgreen::mrgreen::mrgreen:


Looks good stubs.
Now go hit that 2lb mark!!"thumbsup"

Thanks man! And glueing the tires was super easy. Go for it. "thumbsup"

That was the plan. But I don't see me having $300-$600 any time soon for a pair of motors. I will see where I'm at after the mamba micros and a good cleanup of the wiring. That plus Al lowers and Ti/Al hardware in the axles and I think I'd be around 3lb 2oz? That would put me motors away from 2lb.
 
I went out for some solo crawling today. I got about 6 packs threw it. It was cold and my old genace's are not happy anymore.


This thing works so good:ror: Its super light but you lose so much in the axles you don't have to compromise. I still have a great forward bias without any added weight.The balance point is about 1/4" in front of the lower front link bolt. It climbs everything my bully did with 7oz of knuckle weight. I am using the same hubs as I was on my bully but this axle is .20" narrower and I welcome back the narrower track width. I'm at 10 3/4" front and 10.5" rear.


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This pic looked so much better in person. All the carbon was glistening in the sun. Chassis, wheels, link mounts and gear cases. Awesome

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The more I read this thread the more I want to punch myself in the face:x I need these now:twisted: Stupid cutting edge parts! Pics look great man"thumbsup"
Later,
Farmer
 
Looks sic"thumbsup"

Good job getting it together so fast:twisted:

Even got to crawl it today

Can't wait to see it

Thanks man! It took me 11hrs from when I opened the box to when it was driving. Haha

I can't wait to get down there and comp with you guys.

Very Nice "thumbsup" These axles are to me the coolest berg item ever, I will own a set:twisted: now lets see some video8)

I don't know how to post vids. Sorry. All I have is my iphone.

The more I read this thread the more I want to punch myself in the face:x I need these now:twisted: Stupid cutting edge parts! Pics look great man"thumbsup"
Later,
Farmer

Ya, I've been waiting for months!
 
Almost sub 3lbs even with the giant knuckles on it :mrgreen:

Awesome "thumbsup"

I know"thumbsup". My front weighs 10oz more than the rear with no knuckle weight. My bully without knuckle weight weighed 3lb 15oz and the balance point was right at the lower link screw on the skid. By going to these axles and gluing the tires I lost 11oz and the balance point moved forward 1/4". I don't really care about going under three but it is so tempting to try having these axles.


The rovers really like the low 3's but foam is going to be tricky! Narrowed stock rover foam feels a little stiff and to short. Umm?
 
So is 3lbs4oz with or without weights on the front? I'm impressed fo sho. Mine isn't going to get anywhere near that. (not sure why)...

But I'm at 3lbs and about 10oz with superlight motors CF wheels, shaved claws, drilled gears, Ti links, smashed FXRs, and axial knuckles. That is with knuckle weight though.

The only other place I think I could lose weight is by gluing my tires and losing the inner rings.

What else you got?
 
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So is 3lbs4oz with or without weights on the front? I'm impressed fo sho. Mine isn't going to get anywhere near that. (not sure why)...

But I'm at 4lbs and about 10oz with superlight motors CF wheels, shaved claws, drilled gears, Ti links, smashed FXRs, and axial knuckles. That is with knuckle weight though.

The only other place I think I could lose weight is by gluing my tires and losing the inner rings.

What else you got?

I have tiny motor wire, 20g or 22g. My motors have lathed cans so they are about an ounce lighter than a standard motor. Plastic scx10 shocks, all Ti and Al hardware, traxxas al hollow balls, al nuts, and all of my electronics are on the axle.


If I put it on a scale my rear weighs 20oz and the front weighs 32.1oz. That is without any weight added.


Foam is the issues when this light. I have narrowed rover foam and it almost feels to stiff? Umm........ideas?
 
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I will go ahead and answer your PM in your thread Stubs.


In regards to light weight comp crawlers and CI foams:

The Double Deuce Closed Cell Foam System is based on weight. The heavier the vehicle, the taller the inner you want to use.

There are four different height Double Deuce inners to choose from;
5.0, 5.25, 5.5 & 6.0

There are two different height outers that work with those inners.
5.0/5.25 = share the same outer
5.5/6.0 = share the same outer


My Secret Agent XR-10 is 4 pounds 9 ounces RTR (I'm personally not looking to go any lighter because I'm after brute strength durability and I'm also taking a year off from competition.)
I'm using 5.25 Narrow / Soft in the Front with proto type closed cell tuning discs (which are getting great reviews in testing around the country so far)
I'm using a 5.0 Narrow / Medium in the Rear
1" Y - Town Carbon Wheels Glue On style
Shaved & Grooved White Dot Rovers front and rear
No special mods to the foams, only the tires are modified.


In an extreme build such as yours with monumental weight removal, my best guess suggestion is the White Rovers - shaved and grooved with either 5.0 or 5.25 in front, not the 5.5 you had. I need to finalize the closed cell tuning disc size because they make a big difference on the light weight trucks in the front. They increase sidehill support 100% but still allow for forward bite and it's all still totally tunable. They also drive a line much tighter because the tire is being stretched and pulled differently with the closed cell tuning disc.

You could try softening your current 5.5 closed cell inner by channeling out the inner. Remove / create a channel between the inner and outer foam. By doing this you are creating an open area for the outer foam to compress into which will make for more forward bite, increased traction and a softer feeling tire. I prefer to use a dremel with a round drum sander attachment to do this. You could also drill into the closed cell inner foam from the side to remove closed cell material and soften it up overall.

Vanquish Products wheels were used as the bench mark for all my foam designs. I don't recommend or use anything less than a 1" wheel width. Your PM says you are using .5". I'm afraid I can't help you there. The narrower the wheel, the more crowned the tire. While that may increase contact pressure in the small area, the crowned tire tends to be less stable and predictable on side hills. It also compresses the inner foam so much that it crowns up increasing it's Outside Diameter and changing the way it was intended to be used.

I hope all that information can you help or others. I'm subscribed to your thread now so I will follow along through updates. Thank you for your business and for contacting me about foam tuning.
 
Foam is the issues when this light. I have narrowed rover foam and it almost feels to stiff? Umm........ideas?

Wow...never thought I'd hear when the stock Rover foam would be "too stiff". Like Eddie said...with the super narrow wheels the foam is being compressed and forced upwards increasing it's overall diameter and making it feel more firm than it should.

A properly set up set of the closed cell foams with the correct outers will provide unbelievable performance for you. Tires and foams have to be one of the most neglected areas of our rigs. We spend so much time trying to tune the suspension, weight, bias, electronics, etc. and then we buy a set of foams slap them in the tires and cuss them when they don't work.

I think Eddie's suggestions for the foams on this light of a truck are right on. "thumbsup" The proto outer rings are GREAT and I can't wait until they are available to the public so everyone else can see what they have to offer 8)
 
Your still running a .5" :shock:
Time to upgrade my friend.
I switched to a 1" rear and .8? In front and noticed a huge increase in performance.
If you don't have the in we beads, you will need a bigger spacer to get your width back.

Maybe try the 1" spacer?

Just my .02
 
Wow...never thought I'd hear when the stock Rover foam would be "too stiff". Like Eddie said...with the super narrow wheels the foam is being compressed and forced upwards increasing it's overall diameter and making it feel more firm than it should.

A properly set up set of the closed cell foams with the correct outers will provide unbelievable performance for you. Tires and foams have to be one of the most neglected areas of our rigs. We spend so much time trying to tune the suspension, weight, bias, electronics, etc. and then we buy a set of foams slap them in the tires and cuss them when they don't work.

I think Eddie's suggestions for the foams on this light of a truck are right on. "thumbsup" The proto outer rings are GREAT and I can't wait until they are available to the public so everyone else can see what they have to offer 8)

I have quite a few of Eddies foams and with my bully all the way down to 3.9lbs they worked awesome. Of all the combos I tried 5.5"/softbfront and 5.0"/med rear was perfect. That was on a 0.9" wheel.

I hate to say it but i am not sure a closed cell foam is the answer on a rig this light? And, I really hate to say this but, they are really heavy.

The rover foam I am running right now is narrowed and is not crowning at all in the wheel. Where I'm at right now I'm thinking the rover foam is good. I would really just like a softer outer foam. To use Eddies foam scale for reference, I would like something 2 tiers down from soft!

Your still running a .5" :shock:
Time to upgrade my friend.
I switched to a 1" rear and .8? In front and noticed a huge increase in performance.
If you don't have the in we beads, you will need a bigger spacer to get your width back.

Maybe try the 1" spacer?

Just my .02

This is the first time I've ran a wheel narrower then 0.9". I think it works amazingly well with the weight. I was very skeptical of this narrow of a wheel but they side hill amazing and the tire doesn't hardly roll over at all.

My plan was to widen them but I think I am going to stick with this width for now.
 
Your still running a .5"

I think with a Sedona they were a bad idea. I think with a Rover I would try a .5 again.

The problem I had with a Sedona on a .5 was that it actually made the tire wider and the Rover foam got really stiff on me. That was just over 4lb. I can only imagine what Stubs is dealing with closer to 3.

The Rover tire should not have the problem getting wider at the top so I think it would actually be a good option and I may go back to it. I just either need to cut my foams, which I really dont want to do, or figure out something softer.
 
I put some packs through it again today and I think I am just going to stick with the narrowed rover foam for now. I don't have access to any Sedona foam at the moment but I'm told its a little taller and narrower? It might be worth a shot?


So I was messing with the link mount and I ended up flipping it over and mounting the links in the hole for the mount. It seams like the lower I get the links at the axle the better it works. I don't feel at the moment that I would want to go any lower. But it would be very possible with the design of the link mount. Pretty cool design.

CADA2ADF-6432-4BF0-97DC-A29AE314EF49-1875-00000057C88B5E9C_zps8c413ee8.jpg


And this is where I'm sitting without any added knuckle weight. But cast bully knuckles.

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