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SSD Trail King ruins (or is the highlight of) my beach vacation

new2rocks

I wanna be Dave
Joined
Apr 2, 2014
Messages
2,254
Location
North Carolina
I was excited to get my hands on one of the first SSD Trail King Builders Kits. There was only one problem...it arrived the day before we left for our annual family beach vacation. The choices were either to wait until getting home at the end of the week to start building it, or forego a bit of ocean time to get cracking. You can guess what I chose.

So without further ado...box on beach:
IMG_3880.jpg

Makeshift workbench on beach:
IMG_3885.jpg

Open box on beach:
DSC05047.jpg

Unboxing video from beach with lots of tech info for people who don't like to read:
https://www.facebook.com/BowHouseRC/...0380386807212/

Side note: A/V situation for unboxing from beach rental left a bit to be desired. Laptop webcam paired to bluetooth for audio (for noise cancellation) and iPad for internet connection (because WiFi at rental house was wonky). The whole thing felt very 90s. But since you like to read, let's continue. You'll get lots more info here than I was able to cover in the video.

I know...I know...it's a rough life. But someone has to live it.

Bags from box on beach:
DSC05050.jpg

Some notes on the packaging. Like the brilliantly organized Traxxas kits, the Trail King includes all the parts for each component in a single bag. Open bag, use the parts in it to build that component, put spares away, move onto the next bag. Axial, Vaterra, RC4WD and just about everyone else should take note...this is how you should package a kit. The bags are even in alphabetical order in the order in which you assemble them (though it should be noted that SSD skips a couple of letters, like "I" and "L", because they think we might get confused). Well done, SSD - except for the part about thinking we might not know our alphabet so well, lol!

The instructions are very clear and easy to follow:
DSC05057.jpg

Let's start with the rear axle. Here's what you get in the rear axle bag:
DSC05059.jpg

Axles are new versions of the Pro44 axles that SSD has been selling for a little while. Like the existing Pro44s, these have 3-piece housings, but with nylon tubes instead of metal tubes. These also have integrated link mounts instead of the bolt-on mounts.

Note how you get a choice of diff covers:
DSC05060.jpg

Very nice touch, SSD!

Gears are AR44 compatible but all hardened steel, and the locker uses a 6-bolt design that is stronger than the stock Axial locker:
DSC05061.jpg

I was curious about the 3-piece design, but everything seems to go together very (very) snug. The tubes take a bit of wiggling and force before they slide into the pumpkin, but once they do, everything feels nice and tight:
DSC05070.jpg

Once it's all together, this is what you'll have:
DSC05075.jpg

More nice touches to note...SSD includes spare screws, bearing and spacer, and they include a few zipper bags to make it easier for you to keep your spares together after finishing the axle.

There were a couple of very small early production hiccups, but they were very easy to deal with. One of the bearing caps had some plastic covering the screw holes. A few seconds with the utility knife took care of that. Also, the instructions call for 3 different small M3 screw sizes (M3x4mm, M3x5mm and M3x6mm) to attach the tubes to the pumpkin and the bearing cap to the tubes. It looked like mine came with only 2 of those sizes (I'm guessing 4mm & 5mm, but I didn't bring a ruler with me). They worked just fine, so no worries there.

First impressions are very good. The kit is very well laid out, and the components are first rate. All gears are hardened steel, plastic quality seems very good, and everything seems to go together very well. I can't help but think this is the way everything should come from Axial but doesn't. Let's see if that initial impression holds up through the rest of the build. More updates to follow...
 
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SSD, any info on availability of metal tubes for the offset front axle?

Thanks for the detailed unboxing! Very informative. Excited to see this get completed.
 
Nice view but if the next assembly pictures aren't from a beach chair in the sand with a pina colada in one hand then you really aren't committed to this vacation build.
 
I don't NEED anything, but top of the line kits are well presented, as Vanquish VS4-10 for example, old Kyosho and Tamiya kits were well presented.
On this pic you have some parts in disorderly plastic bags, if I open such a box, I don't feel I have the top of the chassis, but an economic one as you have so many others.


The pleasure of seeing beautiful parts in a beautiful case is one of parts I'm waiting for when I buy a high level and high price object 8)


You would not park a Rolls Royce, or a Bentley, for example, here ? :mrgreen:
un-vieux-garage-abandonn%C3%A9-pour-r%C3%A9parer-des-v%C3%A9hicules-dans-la-zone-98540181.jpg
 
I don't NEED anything, but top of the line kits are well presented, as Vanquish VS4-10 for example, old Kyosho and Tamiya kits were well presented.

Two of the last kits I built were the VS4-10 and a vintage Kyosho kit and I while I appreciate the presentation, having all the necessary parts packed into bags for each assembly step is a much better way of doing things.
 
CyberFox,
Your analogy does not make any sense at all. You buy a Rolls Royce and park in your own garage. You don't get the garage with the Rolls Royce. Also you don't store your built chassis in the box. However, I do understand what you are saying but this kit is not expensive at all. If it were over $700 I would agree with you maybe. Even then I wouldn't go too far with it.
Vintage Tamiya style packaging costs a lot. Would you be happy to pay an extra $10? I think not.

The kit is packed logically for assembly. Multiple layers are used to prevent any damage in shipping.
These are the two main objectives for packing a product for me. They way it has been packed is the cheapest and most efficient way we could do it.
 
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Thanks for the early unboxing! Not to mention the entirely selfless sacrificing of a couple hours of sweating and frying to death in the NC sun in lieu of doing something enjoyable in the shade just to post for us. "thumbsup"

This will definitely be the only kit I buy this year, even if I do have to wait till Christmas.
 
Of course it's only my point of view ;-)
But only 10 usd for a beautiful presentation would not be so expensive :razz:

If you buy an enduro sendero, you can store it in the garage box :ror:

I stop to disturb new2rocks topic with it, promise :mrgreen:
 
NICE! first i have seen of this kit "in the wild!" looking forward to seeing what you do with it.
kit looks great and if i could have bought two new rigs this year, it would have been this one.
also, you are VERY BRAVE. i would be fired immediately for doing such things on family vacation. (sorta why i missed proline this year if ya know what i mean)

SSD don't sweat the packaging, this is much better. i don't need champagne to fall from the heavens when i open a toy truck that will just get flogged on the rocks anyway lol GREAT WORK hope i can get one of these someday!
 
Y'all crack me up. The packaging is just fine, this coming from a guy that's just finishing a major garage remodel to "repackage" my tiny trucks and 1:1s.

SSD, any info on availability of metal tubes for the offset front axle?

Thanks for the detailed unboxing! Very informative. Excited to see this get completed.

Thanks! As for metal tubes, I understand they are under consideration.

Very nice unboxing on the beach!"thumbsup"

Merci!

Honestly, looks like a fantastic place to build a kit!

Thanks, Damon. I can't complain. ;-)

Nice view but if the next assembly pictures aren't from a beach chair in the sand with a pina colada in one hand then you really aren't committed to this vacation build.

In due course...

try not to lose any screws or little parts on this place with holes on the floor :mrgreen:

The thought crossed my mind. So far, no escapees. "thumbsup"

Ha very nice, sounds like my kind of vacation!

Thanks! I'm enjoying it. :wink:

Thanks for the early unboxing! Not to mention the entirely selfless sacrificing of a couple hours of sweating and frying to death in the NC sun in lieu of doing something enjoyable in the shade just to post for us. "thumbsup"

This will definitely be the only kit I buy this year, even if I do have to wait till Christmas.

It's a big sacrifice, but I'm willing to do it for you guys... :twisted: Oh...the broiler in VA is just as bad as it is in NC. :evil:

NICE! first i have seen of this kit "in the wild!" looking forward to seeing what you do with it. kit looks great and if i could have bought two new rigs this year, it would have been this one. also, you are VERY BRAVE. i would be fired immediately for doing such things on family vacation. (sorta why i missed proline this year if ya know what i mean)
. . . lol GREAT WORK hope i can get one of these someday!

Lol. I've been grilling every night for 14 people, so I get a little bit of slack. And yes...you should get one! :mrgreen:

Okay...now that we've gotten our feelings about boxes and bags out of our system, let's get back to work. Front axle was next:
DSC05079.jpg

Like the rear axle, this one uses hardened steel gears with 6-bolt lockers. SSD will have an overdrive gearset coming soon for those who like to overdrive the front axles.

Locker bearing caps are asymmetrical to match the slots in the pumpkins:
DSC05090.jpg

DSC05091.jpg

Knuckles and c-hubs are very nicely machined aluminum:
DSC05081.jpg

The knuckles are the same SSD knuckles for the SCX-10 II, but the c-hubs are new and specific to these axles. The axle tubes and c-hubs are keyed to keep you from putting them on upside down (though they're not completely idiot-proof, as I'll demonstrate momentarily :oops:):
DSC05088.jpg

C-hubs are secured to the axles with grub screws to ensure they don't get twisted around like the clamping AR44 c-hubs sometimes do:
DSC05096.jpg

And if you're a bonehead like me, the keys won't stop you from putting the c-hubs on the wrong side of the axles like I did...:oops:...so pay better attention than yours truly.

The Trail King includes off-center front universals:
DSC05100.jpg

Do you ever get tired of trying to keep kingpin flanges inside the knuckles long enough to slide them onto c-hubs? I do. But not here, as SSD was kind enough to use simple brass sleeves that slide in from outside the knuckles:
DSC05101.jpg

This is what you get when you've finished assembling the axles with the c-hubs reversed and some spares left over:
DSC05102.jpg

Once you discover the error of your ways and put the c-hubs on correctly, it will look more like this:
DSC05180.jpg

Here are a couple of other axle assembly notes:
- The axle bags include the screws for the links, so keep them handy for later.
- I confirmed that the M3x4mm and M3x5mm screws are correct to secure the axle tubes to the pumpkins, notwithstanding the instructions' reference to M3x6mm screws.
- Some of the screws (esp. the ones holding the tubes in place) don't have a lot of material to bite into, so you don't feel much increase in resistance before the screws start to spin. I would recommend hand tightening everything carefully and avoid power tools. If you happen to overtighten a screw and it starts to spin, try taking it out and adding a dab of Shoe Goo or E6000 before putting it back in.
- The gears may feel a tad crunchy the first couple of times you spin them, but once they settle in after a few turns, they get very smooth.

Next up will be the transmission...
 
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Do you ever get tired of trying to keep kingpin flanges inside the knuckles long enough to slide them onto c-hubs? I do.

Not to further derail your build (and the side discussion about the packaging), but a little bit of grease applied to the outside of the flanges will help hold them in place during assembly of other axles not to be named here.
 
the axles are a no go for me i wont buy axles with seperate axle tubes i get it saves alittle money but ive had to many things that fit together like that to trust it im sure a little bit of epoxy would fix the problem for a while but will it last long enuff to be worth the trouble
if they were metal i could weld or braze it together
you get that plastic out in the over 100° temps out innthe desert and no glue or epoxy will help if the housing it self is flexing
 
the axles are a no go for me i wont buy axles with seperate axle tubes i get it saves alittle money but ive had to many things that fit together like that to trust it im sure a little bit of epoxy would fix the problem for a while but will it last long enuff to be worth the trouble
if they were metal i could weld or braze it together
you get that plastic out in the over 100° temps out innthe desert and no glue or epoxy will help if the housing it self is flexing

Its my first 3 piece (plastic) axle but I'd say it feels quite secure, plus this is not a new design and if it were flawed I think we would have heard about it by now or seen a new design replace it.
 
the axles are a no go for me i wont buy axles with seperate axle tubes i get it saves alittle money but ive had to many things that fit together like that to trust it im sure a little bit of epoxy would fix the problem for a while but will it last long enuff to be worth the trouble
if they were metal i could weld or braze it together
you get that plastic out in the over 100° temps out innthe desert and no glue or epoxy will help if the housing it self is flexing

The reason for the axles being multi piece has nothing to do with cost. It probably cost is more. The first Pro44 axles have heavy metal tubes and we also have an option diamond centre section. The center sections have been in the field for well over a year (maybe two, can't remember) and they have been very reliable.
 
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