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Spiike's SCX10 Jeep 4 Door (Caution Picture Heavy)

Axial has 6mm spacers as well as smaller sizes. You unscrew some of the set screw from the rod end and the spacer slides on. Then screw on the link.

See the spacer on this lower link?
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yeah you have to remove the links, remove the rod ends, and center the screw so its threaded in the same amount in the link as it sits inside the rod end. and put together. What I have done to fix this problem was I made my own 4 link links. out of aluminum tubing and #8 threaded rod with Traxxis rod ends.
 
I took the truck apart again to do some tweaking to the center of gravity and turned out i relocated the electronics except for the receiver, i left it in the rear because the box itself still looks like a gas tank.

In this post I have done the following.

-moved ESC up front where battery was.
-moved my 7 cell Battery sideways vs flat and up top underneath the hood of the jeep. Many thanks to many other RCC threads whom have done the same thing. Also mounted it with an aluminum plate and velcro for easy change out. also fits right up inside the interior without too many problems.
-removed weight from spare tire, added weight to all tires, giving the front tires 1.5 oz each and 1.75 oz in rear each. for an total addition of 6.5 oz sticky weights in tires.
-rotated tires
-lifted rear cargo area carpet and drilled 2 holes, also removed entire rear velcro system and clipped the body to the chassis, but not tightening the screws too much on the chassis, so that the whole body opens like a funny car (see pictures) I will later on incorporate an easy way to hold the body up for easy fieldwork repair (which in mind ive only had these integy drive shafts fall off)
-removed blue ground effects due to excessive power consumption
-fixed all front lights with special ata cable i found in my computer box (see pictures of front bumper) also turned fog lights blue
-in the process of everything off from the chassis, i moved the body over 1/2" or about 15mm closer to the chassis. which resulted no room for battery where it was mounted before and difficulty putting the body on. and not having enough room for the ESC where it was mounted.
-blue thread locked the remaining part of the integy driveshaft that ive had fall of about a dozen times.
-added wheel well walls vs adding an entire wheel well. using black cd case plastic. (adding more on todo list)
-15mm highlift
full droop? 3.5"
weight of truck on shocks lil less than 3"
shocks fully suppressed 2.2"
about 4.4" of articulation all tires on ground
-got a hobby box from the source and installed my ESC in it, its mostly a splash box, it has a drain hole, the ESC is water resistant, the water can not get inside the ESC, so if water gets inside the box it will drain out the holes. and mounted the ESC with Velcro
-Cleaned up the bumper mount, acting more like skiis, and now they wont cut the kids or whomever touches my truck lol
-moved entire front shock hoops forward about 15mm as well to fit the new battery placement. also stops the tires from rubbing on the shocks as well.
-painted the bottom of the interior black
-no more disconnecting wires to remove body to change battery or do maintenance, simply use a pair of plyers or screwdriver.

I liked how the center of gravity was before i did the hi-lift upgrade, but the hi lift upgrade gives the articulation so much more, so i think i may move it to the next hole up and try it until i find a sweet spot, may also get a hold of more sticky weights for the truck or fork out 15 bucks andbuy a roll of heavy fishing lead that you can cut to any size and form to your rims etc...

also future upgrades, may try to work in a heat sink on my motor, or a fan, simple small.
more undercarriage not sure.
still waiting on MIP driveshafts!
front wheel well walls and maybe wheel wells, not sure yet.
like a car has a stick to hold the hood up, i need one to hold my body, but still on the truck for field repairs
waiting on lester to order me some more metal rocksliders, rear bumper with tire fold out, winch anchor. and more stuff to come i hope ;) anyways enjoy the huge update!

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Could you post a few more pictures, I couldn't make out what you have done:flipoff:. Rig looks great and looks like you have definitely gotten your moneys worth out of it use wise"thumbsup"
 
Could you post a few more pictures, I couldn't make out what you have done:flipoff:. Rig looks great and looks like you have definitely gotten your moneys worth out of it use wise"thumbsup"

i've probably got over 60 plays per battery, and my newest 3000mah 8.4v electrifly battery has its 4th charge, and the other 3600 and 4500 last between 2 and 2.5 hours depending on lights on or off. 250 hours of play, and over a 1000 scratches lol!!
 
it is the perfect spot for anyone to put their battery on these scx10 frames.. the CoG changes significantly after changing battery positions. love it! and even if u do roll it, usually falls back on its feet lol
 
yeah i love the batt location too on my honcho. i borrowed a few more batteries from a friend since he's running lipo in his ax10. i now have like 3 or 4- 1500mah batteries, one 1800mah, one 3000mah and one more cant remember what it is, my cousin just bought a slash so he's probably going to give me his 3300mah batt also.

we'll have to get together one of these days soon and do some crawling. there's a sweet creek just down the road from that a couple of us are thinking about getting together and running.. i've ran it once already and its pretty fun:mrgreen:
 
is that the one with the huge waterfall beside it? my brother in law lives in salmon arm well 10 minutes out, hes got a honcho with a 4 door jeep body as well with 2.2 super swampers and batt location is perfect on his too. I also know 3 other guys here in vernon who have visited lester too, total of 6 scx10 that visit lesters hobbies lol
 
its in silver creek(which is about 10-15mins from salmon arm) there's some pics on page 14 on my thread i believe of the creek.

the creek runs off the mountain and crosses a logging road (there is plenty of room to park) then crosses the main paved road and heads towards the salmon river.
 
my brother was tellin me that there is a nice area by the lake too with fields of all sorts of size rocks.
 
ugh, went to get a star, and rcc only accepts instant payments, now i gotta wait 8 days for money to transfer before i can get teh star and sign up for the free axial wraith kit deal
 
Here is the front wheel wells finished up, this winter im going to paint the steel parts black to match chassis, any silver plate aluminum plate, steel plate will be black


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Here I wired the CC BEC directly to an off/on switch, to a JST to a ultra deans.

the other end of the BEC connected into a Y JST adapter, the signal wire from the CC BEC was removed on the Y adapter end (this is done so i can use the castelink usb in the future) the servo was connected directly to the other female end of the jst. the other male end of the JST was plugged into the receiver, removing only the red wire to the receiver. this allows the internal 3A BEC in the novak super rooster ESC to power the receiver, and a full 5A to power the 645MG and possibly upgrading it to a 7954 high power servo in future or moving this CC BEC to future xr10




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Here is my ultra deans hijack I made, finally made some 100% perfect solders, with clear heatshrink to show off my perfect solders "thumbsup"
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the CC BEC connects via JST to the ultra deans hijack, (the JST was already on the on/off switch, was easy enough to add another JST) was thinking of using a Y adapter, but the power capabilities of 18g wire is limited to lights or just a winch, or just the JST. so will make another hijack ultra deans if needed.
the other is the winch controller direct to the hijack ultra deans
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Here is everything new that I got connected no more timaya, tested and works great. now to hide it all
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3 ultradeans hijacks with ESC and Battery connected much better than timaya Y adapters and adding another Y adapter or making a 3 way adapter

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CC BEC with on/off switch
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say good bye to timaya connectors lol and all that extra length of 12G wire, which i'll reuse in future RCs

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Wires all tuckered away
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Servo all clear of any wires, so no worry about damaging wires during articulation
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And that is all she wrote, shes running, pretty good, I havent noticed much of a power difference, but I do notice that I can go further because the BEC is beside the ESC also so no radio interference between those, and the ESC powers the receiver and not the servo anymore. so far so good "thumbsup""thumbsup" I think i would notice more power if i had a bigger servo but ill save that for the xr10 when i buy 1

Going out soon to rattle snake point, get some snap shots before snow falls, its gettin to -5c wind chill where i live, frost hit already 3 or 4 times
 
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