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Reezo's Axial Gladiator Overland HAM Build [Picture Heavy]

The sway bar is a great addition to the SCX10.3.

Since I installed one on mine it seems just as capable, but more stable.

I know someone makes a bolt-on sway bar, but if you scope my Bronco thread you'll see how I built mine.

Thank you, Fallen! I am heading to the thread right now and will bookmark it. I have enough parts from my Yeti and Bomber, plus some metal bars of different diameters... that I *somehow* hope I can find a way to DIY it.

I saw videos of Gladiators with sway bars and I like the 'stability' and planted feeling that it imparts, indeed.
 
Added above:
Weight:
11 lbs (5010 g) without battery.

I'll look into the "sway bar spare parts bin" today and will refine the front links.

The upper/lower ratio is spot on but I am thinking I am still a tad too long at full screwing of the rod ends (and cannot compress more). I maybe like to get to where I am now, when the rod ends are 5 mm unscrewed on both ends. I no longer have any fender rub from the back of the tire, but the front now can rub against the bumper when at full turn. Adjusting the endpoints saves that (it's really not necessary) and still gives me now a much tighter turning radius, probably due to the longer links as well and relationship with the shocks geometry. The front shocks don't have much travel (I am not too interested) so a small custom pair of shock keys might give me an additional position. But again, I am not too interested in a lot of shock travel.


We'll see... more soon!
 
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With the help of my wife, I found the parts I had lost on the rocks, yesterday, in my back garden :)

6q2SoLL.jpg

nQwB9Co.jpg
 
By the way this is what I use to test most of my crawlers. It's quite extreme but there are some lines that really tell me when the basics are down. You pay your tuning and driving mistakes dearly, if something goes wrong in this place. But that's what I have...

 
Finally, an update. Here is what things look like now. I took it for a nice crawl yesterday and it MURDERED some of the hardest lines I've done with my Capra 4WS and Comp 2 LCG Carbon Chassis. This proves me once again that, given the proper tuning, ANY rig is unstoppable.

This is pretty much done, I am only missing stickers because I am not sure I will switch the body to the gunmetal grey. If anyone has one for sale, hit me up ;)

I hope you enjoy!

 
That truck is a beast! Nice looking rig. All that preload on the shock has to hurt performance. Did you try going with stiffer springs?
 
That truck is a beast! Nice looking rig. All that preload on the shock has to hurt performance. Did you try going with stiffer springs?
Thanks! Glad you like it. I have footage from a couple trails I have run with my wife, I was driving the Gladiator and she was on the TRX-4 Sport. I'll try to post them soon.

Indeed, the front shocks have Axial red springs and they are not enough for the weight, as you noticed. It works that way, but it could be way better. I have a couple GTR orange springs, long and short, with their cups and holders that I quickly tried and, good lord they seem to be spot on. I might try and fit them on the front in my next adventure, while waiting for some Axial spring sets to try: I would like to get probably a pair of yellow, a pair of white, and maybe another green as green *might* end up spot on. But I usually don't buy 2 pairs of the same spring tension as I have this thing of considering them "wasted" :) as I always end up having different spring rates for front and rear on all the rigs, and adjust preloads afterwards.

Anyway...the white GTR big springs on that rig don't look bad, I am not sure how scale they'd be but I am not for 100% scale ;)

More reports soon!
 
Looks great! Always thought the Gladiator was the best looking of the V3 trucks.
Thank you! I appreciate the kind words and I am happy I took the time already to film some adventures on it, fingers crossed I can publish them soon!
 
What's up with the upper shock mounts being so far away from the tower?

I would be concerned with the shocks having enough leverage to rip the screw out of the shock tower on a decent tumble.

You are right, indeed and it's no longer like that, although there is still a spacer (less than half a centimeter) and I am still evaluating whether I want that or not:

qcQEZRe.jpeg


I was experimenting with placing the front shocks further towards the tires. It started because the pan hard mount had a spacer towards the link and looked like it was part of the mount itself. When I found out, I took the spacer out, so the spring does not touch the rod end anymore and it was all good. But still, I wanted to see what would happen by staying more towards the tire. One thing I know that will happen is that, because of the added leverage, a bump will tear the plastic shock tower apart (or snap the screw, with metal shock towers).

So I am treading with care. Not sure how 5 mm will be, but it still looks pretty dangerous on a tall jump.

I need to get a stiffer spring in the front, ease all that preload, and take the front shocks back into a tight contact with the towers, to avoid the issue you mentioned, but now you have the back story ;)
 
Oh and by all means if you have springs recommendations, feel free!

I was just simply thinking to get the other colors that Axial offers, since the green are fine in the back, but the red are clearly too soft for the front, I would get a set of white and one of yellow, as I said, to have all colors and see.

But buying just those from an online RC store will get me to buy something else and then something else and then something else...

Facepalm mode on.
 
I've had success with the Injora springs personally, having a set of five different spring rates to try out worked out good. Fitted on stock 100mm Axial scx10.3 springs.
 
I've had success with the Injora springs personally, having a set of five different spring rates to try out worked out good. Fitted on stock 100mm Axial scx10.3 springs.
Thanks for the tip, I had not thought about Injora springs. I'll see what my spare parts box has, but I think I don't have springs that would work at the moment, minus the GTR springs which would feel great but are probably ending up too wide. I do have the cups and holders but the issue will be the rubbing against the panhard bar rod end.

Anyway, worst-case my baseline is to get a pair of yellow (mid) and green again (firm). I am not sure I'll get the orange or purple (one of the two are the super soft), considering that the red (soft) is already unusable on this rig. I think 2 sets of yellow and 1 of green would give the possibility of doing a soft+mid and mid+firm sets. Since I am paying for shipping maybe it makes sense to add a bit more springs, anyway (I keep thinking "what do I need.... each time there's shipping involved. Not sure this is a good method ;)).
 
Oh and by all means if you have springs recommendations, feel free!

I was just simply thinking to get the other colors that Axial offers, since the green are fine in the back, but the red are clearly too soft for the front, I would get a set of white and one of yellow, as I said, to have all colors and see.

But buying just those from an online RC store will get me to buy something else and then something else and then something else...

Facepalm mode on.
I personally loved the stock shocks/springs on mine, though I will say that the green springs are supposed to be in the front and the red ones in the back (just checked my mom's 10.3 JLU to make sure).
 
I personally loved the stock shocks/springs on mine, though I will say that the green springs are supposed to be in the front and the red ones in the back (just checked my mom's 10.3 JLU to make sure).

Volt, thank you so much, you basically answered something I hadn't asked yet. When I got the Gladiator from the original owner, they were red-rear green-front and I thought it was something the owner had done, as soft usually goes front and firm rear. Emphasis on: "usually" because we know it is a case but case and based on sprung weight etc. Etc.

While cleaning the Gladiator I swapped the springs in auto pilot but when I saw that the front was really sinking (with the soft red) I had already swapped motor, added the winch, etc. Etc. So I was no longer sure the reds were too soft because of my mods, or because they were actually meant for the rear.

I'll swap them and report! Thanks 🙏 a lot for the help!
 
Volt, thank you so much, you basically answered something I hadn't asked yet. When I got the Gladiator from the original owner, they were red-rear green-front and I thought it was something the owner had done, as soft usually goes front and firm rear. Emphasis on: "usually" because we know it is a case but case and based on sprung weight etc. Etc.

While cleaning the Gladiator I swapped the springs in auto pilot but when I saw that the front was really sinking (with the soft red) I had already swapped motor, added the winch, etc. Etc. So I was no longer sure the reds were too soft because of my mods, or because they were actually meant for the rear.

I'll swap them and report! Thanks 🙏 a lot for the help!
Lol, no problem man! I've actually done that exact same thing once before when I overhauled my Gladiator last year, I only noticed it earlier this year when I looked through my manual. Also theoretically speaking I feel like it'd make sense for the stiffer springs to be up front, as most of the electronics, the motor, and some of the transmission is mounted towards the front of the truck, the only thing in the back being the battery (which isn't even really in the back, it's closer to the middle). The 10.3 is just kinda weird like that lol.
 
Lol, no problem man! I've actually done that exact same thing once before when I overhauled my Gladiator last year, I only noticed it earlier this year when I looked through my manual. Also theoretically speaking I feel like it'd make sense for the stiffer springs to be up front, as most of the electronics, the motor, and some of the transmission is mounted towards the front of the truck, the only thing in the back being the battery (which isn't even really in the back, it's closer to the middle). The 10.3 is just kinda weird like that lol.
Agreed, indeed!
 
If I bought a clear body and painted, what color combo (and/or specific paint codes) would you like a Gladiator to be?

I am curious as to what everyone's idea of JT is!
 
If I bought a clear body and painted, what color combo (and/or specific paint codes) would you like a Gladiator to be?

I am curious as to what everyone's idea of JT is!
Y'know, I've yet to actually see someone paint one of the JTs or JLUs green. There are some nice options, like Gecko, Mojito and High Velocity. I think it'd be neat to see a green 10.3 JT. I personally am planning on painting mine Hella Yella.
 
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