RBX10, RYFT, Scale Rock Bouncer

[wander]

why do so many pay so much for a rock bouncer, not a basher, then bash and break it, then complain it broke?



it has some problems...and I guess not being a basher is another?


if you want to bash buy a basher, if you have a rocky hill to climb buy a ryft.

 

[Panther6834]

why do so many pay so much for a rock bouncer, not a basher, then bash and break it, then complain it broke?



it has some problems...and I guess not being a basher is another?


if you want to bash buy a basher, if you have a rocky hill to climb buy a ryft.

Agreed. If you want a vehicle for a particular type of use, then buy a vehicle for that type of use. If you want to use a vehicle for a use other than what it's designed for, that's perfectly alright...but, in doing so, the owner has to take responsibility for anything that happens outside of that vehicles intended use-type.


~ More peace, love, and kindness would make the world a much better place

 

[Timmahh]

If you think Rock Bounce Racing is less abusive than bashing, your not Rock Racing.

LOL


Fit the Vanquish Yeti V2 sway bar last night. The arms are too short. Even in the last most adjustment hole, the links have about 25* angle to get to the axle.

FYI for anyone wondering. It's just too short.
Either wait for Vanquish to drop a Ryft Specific Say Bar, or go with the Stock Axial, Treal, or Vitavon sway bar. Amazon has cheapies that need a longer cross rod.
They appear to have a long enough sway arm.

I ordered the Treal just a little bit ago. Its Ryft Specific. And I'd rather just buy one made for it, then try to mod one not made for it to fit at this point.

So fwiw, any one interested in a Vanquish V2 Yeti Saybar setup? New, only installed. heh.

 

[lonleycreeper]

why do so many pay so much for a rock bouncer, not a basher, then bash and break it, then complain it broke?



it has some problems...and I guess not being a basher is another?


if you want to bash buy a basher, if you have a rocky hill to climb buy a ryft.

I absolutely take full responsibility for the breakage! I am not complaining, in fact I am impressed that all I broke was 2 rod ends.

Imo a Rock bouncer is a Scale Basher. It does not handle well. In fact it is terrible. But it is fun and challenging to drive.

I am impressed it lasted as long as it did without breakage. In fact my crawler buddy kept asking if I broke a axle yet. I haven't. I have ran it into trees, rocks, sign posts ect bent the steering link 3 different directions, (put it in my bench vice and got it back almost straight) and shattered the servo saver (replaced with an aluminum servo horn). This rig has been nearly bullet proof on the stock electronics and I couldn't be happier.

 

[nicj]

Hi!

I just wanted to post a note here, since I was stuck getting the 2-speed transmission to work on my RBX10 kit I got a few weeks ago. I finally figured out why, and maybe someone else in the future will hit this issue and this may be a fix.

This was my first kit build, though I have a couple other bashers/crawler RTRs. Overall I enjoyed the build, but when I went to function test the electronics/motor/RX before I put the body cage on, I found that the 2-speed transmission wasn't shifting properly.

I found that I could always get it into the first gear (shift plunger pushed all the way in), but I could never get the transmission to engage the 2nd gear reliably (shift plunger pulled all the way out). No matter how hard I (or the servo) pulled it, it would kinda-sorta engage but then kick out.

I tried all sorts of things, and pulled the transmission apart probably 10 times. I followed some advice earlier in this thread to remove the guide rod, and that helped ensure the servo could push/pull easier, but it still wouldn't engage 2nd gear. I found that if I removed the spur gear or motor pinion, it seemed to engage more consistently, but not with both connected.

I was _just_ about to give up and go back to a single speed transmission, when I pulled it all apart one last time. I found the issue - I had connected the plunger to the shifting fork backwards, so the screw detent did not go into the shifting fork's socket correctly. So clearly it wasn't fitting well in the transmission.

Once I "fiipped" the fork around, the transmission works much smoother (and the whole shifting plunger sticks out less, so the servo works easier). I can get it to engage both gears reliably now.

Just in case anyone else hits this issue! Make sure your fork is the right direction on its plunger!

(I may have not used the proper terms for some parts here, hope my meaning came across).

 

[Jay-Em]

why do so many pay so much for a rock bouncer, not a basher, then bash and break it, then complain it broke?



it has some problems...and I guess not being a basher is another?


if you want to bash buy a basher, if you have a rocky hill to climb buy a ryft.

Yes, and nó. Axial made the mistake of marketing it as some kind of 4s-capable bashing beast. ‘False advertizing’ comes to mind. Ànd they had the utter bad luck that the China-factory -apparently- pulled a fast one on them by NOT using the approptiate material for the axles, ( the far cheaper non-fiber filled nylon) or made a honest mistake. You’re never certain with Chinese manufacturers of RC Toys. Ànd the QC seems to have been severely lacking to boot.

In the end, people broke about everything around the axles, plùs the housings themselves. Not something that does a manufacturers’ reputation any good.

On top of all that, the simple addition of a rear swaybar could have prevented many a grumbling customer. Axial/Horizon cheaped-out on a rather important part to make a fast, straight axle rig halfway drivable. Stupid, bean-counter-driven decisions, listening too much to marketing people, ànd bad luck makes for a perfect storm for a rig.

On a side-note: I wouldn’t be all too surprised if a Ryft V2 was in the works. It -apparently- sold pretty well, despite its flaws and weaknesses, so there ìs a market for Southern Bouncer looking bashers. ( And Axial/Horizon people dó read rccrawler posts, or so I heard.. :razz: )

 

[Halo]

Yes, and nó. Axial made the mistake of marketing it as some kind of 4s-capable bashing beast. ‘False advertizing’ comes to mind. Ànd they had the utter bad luck that the China-factory -apparently- pulled a fast one on them by NOT using the approptiate material for the axles, ( the far cheaper non-fiber filled nylon) or made a honest mistake. You’re never certain with Chinese manufacturers of RC Toys. Ànd the QC seems to have been severely lacking to boot.

In the end, people broke about everything around the axles, plùs the housings themselves. Not something that does a manufacturers’ reputation any good.

On top of all that, the simple addition of a rear swaybar could have prevented many a grumbling customer. Axial/Horizon cheaped-out on a rather important part to make a fast, straight axle rig halfway drivable. Stupid, bean-counter-driven decisions, listening too much to marketing people, ànd bad luck makes for a perfect storm for a rig.

On a side-note: I wouldn’t be all too surprised if a Ryft V2 was in the works. It -apparently- sold pretty well, despite its flaws and weaknesses, so there ìs a market for Southern Bouncer looking bashers. ( And Axial/Horizon people dó read rccrawler posts, or so I heard.. :razz: )

Very well said! I've called Horizon dozen of times with problems I had on my Ryft and they always go above and beyond to help. After having many conversations with their tech guys I am certain we will see a Ryft V2 in the future. Horizon is well aware of the issues and can easily fix it just like they did on some Arrma platforms which are now a huge success for them.

 

[Timmahh]

Night Ryft.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VF1MDVqP2fU









Made up 6 of these with 2 red and 4 white 5mm leds and some PL buckets and grilles. Put them on a 6 place bar and mounted behind the heads inside the cage.
Wired them together with a 2 inch (52mm) light bar, and E6000'd it under the hood area just.
Plenty of good light to see and the reds are bright enough to give some vision when backing up.
have them setup on chnl 3 for on/off with an inline controller.

 

[Timmahh]

Another Mod for the Ryft going down.

 

[Timmahh]

Power Plant is almost done and in place. I need to paint it and add the headers, and timing chain cover to it. seal it to the cover a bit better, then add some finishing details like plug wires, some hoses. maybe a Radiator........

 

[Timmahh]

Color added to the engine and getting ready for plug wires etc. Need to paint the carb area yet. May add some fuel lines, maybe try to make some hoses at some point. Also mounted the headers. May try to make a couple dual exhaust pipes to fit in, but this will probably be good enough for who its for.






Plug wires in place. Still need to add a little color to them and glue them into place permanently, then it will be ready to go back into the Ryft.

 

[JDM74]

That looks amazing! Good work.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[lonleycreeper]

I agree nice work. SSD motor?

 

[Timmahh]

I agree nice work. SSD motor?

Yes. The SSD TK kit motor (same as they sell alone).

Its a tight fit, upper link on one side rubs the header as it compresses fully, but not too bad, it just pushes it out of the way a little bit. May heat the header section and get it to bend out just a bit to clear the link better.

I'll get some pics and maybe a bit of vid soon.

 

[Timmahh]

Vanquish dropped a Spool yesterday, available now I hear 25.00

Seen a Peek A Boo at the new Axles today....

Going to be an interesting few days/weeks as they drop more stuff I'm thinking.

 

[durok]

SSD lockers out at RPP, too!

 

[meatmonkey]

I found that if I installed the shift fork onto the shaft the "correct" way that the shift shaft and the guide shaft were not at all parallel, which makes it impossible to shift smoothly. For ha,he's I threaded it on backwards and now the shift shaft and the guide shaft are parallel. Doesn't make sense, but i swear it's true. I then drilled a recess into the transmission case to allow the bigger OD "ring" (that is supposed to sit into the recess on the shift fork) on the shift shaft to slip inside, allowing enough travel to fully engage both gears. This, plus some smoothing/deburring on the dogs, has made for a properly shifting transmission.

Now if only it was geared lower. I have a 14t pinion installed, going to swap for a 13, and still going to desire lower gears. 2nd gear is stupidly fast, and 1rst dont really wanna crawl.

 

[Timmahh]

PIcked up a set of SSD Steering links for the Wraith. Installed long rod ends which needed to be trimmed back 3-5mm total from the ends to get the right alignment.

I think its pretty close, but will have to pull out the measuring tape to check it over to double-check its set good.

But have plenty of clearance around the diff cover now and can get full turning radius both directions and hit the steering stops, as well as the lugs getting into the links on both sides.

Once I have the alignment set right, I'll have to adjust the steering bump stops and then the EPA.


Thought I had another issue in the Tranny, but it turned out the 99 Micro gears went to shit. had the EPAs set at 28/18% each side of Neutral, so not really sure why it took a shit. servos new, so I'll contact Reefs on Monday and send it in for Warrenty repair/replacement.

So I locked it in 1st gear for now so I can run it while the Reefs Micro gets fixed.

Few porn pics.

 

[Panther6834]

Over the past several months, I've thrown out 'hints' of what I was planning, and 'teasers' of what I was working on, but never giving enough info for anyone to focus out what I was actually doing with my Ryft Kit.

Well...it's finally finished.

In typical Black Cat fashion, it has a theme - The Avengers.

However, I'm not doing a"build thread". If this was a fully customizable rig (ie. SCX10.3, VS4-10, Trail King Pro, etc), then creating a build thread would be obvious...heck, one could even say 'required'. But, since several have already been posted, and all are essentially the same (other than individual customizations), I figured I would just create a 'synopsis' thread. For those interested, here's the link:
https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink/to...&share_fid=19420&share_type=t&link_source=app


~ More peace, love, and kindness would make the world a much better place

 

[Panther6834]

I'm going to assume/guess my Ryft isn't the only one with a considerable amount of slop in the steering. I know several pointed this out when using the kit servo saver. Most of it appears to get corrected by using the Losi LMT servo saver. Well...I tried the (updated) HR LMT servo saver...which, I'll admit, is defiantly better then the kit servo saver. However, it still had way too much slop. I did replace it with the Losi LMT servo saver, and that got rid of most (but not all) of it. So...I decided to install a make-shift "steering stabilizer.

What you see is over of the unused (front) kit shocks, with the spring, spring retainer, and preload ring removed, and the cap's 'wide' ball replaced with a 'narrow' ball off the bottom of one of the other shocks. I filled it with 5000wt diff fluid, and then attached it to the servo saver (on top of the steering arm, using a longer 25mm screw) & left steering knuckle.

End result: ALL but approx 0.5mm (at the wheels) of slop removed. "Thanks" go to Joe (of Exocaged on YouTube) for giving me the idea.

EDIT: For those curious about the alignment of the "stabilizer" shaft to the steering link, they are about as perfectly aligned (before the links left-side bend) as anything possibly could be. Also, if anyone wonders if the "stabilizer" shock hits the pumpkin, the answer is "yes"...but, just barely, and ONLY at the exact moment the steering is at full-right. So, it doesn't interfere at all with the steering. Plus, the area of the shock that (again, barely) makes contact with the pumpkin is the plastic piece at the bottom of the shock body...thus, neither the shock, nor the blue anodizing, would sustain any "damage".

~ More peace, love, and kindness would make the world a much better place