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RBX10, RYFT, Scale Rock Bouncer

I am just going to put these here...

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Well yesterday I went on a night run with the boys, hill killing and bouncing...

My diffs were not happy.

Today I went rock bouncing and exploded my center and rear diffs, both.

My front diff is skipping, well actually not anymore.

Today I locked all 3 diffs with Axial spools...

Lets see what breaks next...
 
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Love the summersault as you got near the top...and ya kept going. [emoji1687]


~ More peace, love, and kindness would make the world a much better place

Thanks Panther, That hill was a lot of fun!


I met up with my buddy tonight and did some super steep hills at a new location for me...

My wife gave me grief, I went out the second time this week!

And I lost one of my wheel nut's, not once, but twice... An acomplishment for sure!

Anyway, Posin on a ledge...

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And the Wraith climbin...

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So last time out, I stripped out a wheel hub and melted the wheel...

The tires were still fine, however my glue removal did not work out, and I tore the side walls out of the tire...

I ordered new tires and figured, I had enough wheels to mount them up...

New tires and wheels on the rear...


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FYI. I have fixed stripped/ripped hexes out of wheels before on my HPI Baja 5Bs with Reed Case motor.
So it will work and last.

Take some saran/plastic wrap and take the hex off the rig. wrap hex in one layer of plastic wrap.
Mix up a little bit of JBWeld.
slid plastic wrapped hex into the wheel and take a flat spatula (popsicle stick) and pack the JB Weld around the hex. let it cure for a day. then push the hex out. it will slide out of the saran wrap. then you can clean up the wheel a little bit and let it fully cure for a full 48 hours.

Then the hex will be good to go again.
 
Hi RCC members. Got a question for you about the Ryft. I got one on order and am about to order some beef tubes to strengthen the front axle. Was wondering if I should get the brass version or alu version.

Been out of RC for a while and making my way back with new cars :) also got a Bomber on order
 
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Hi RCC members. Got a question for you about the Ryft. I got one on order and am about to order some beef tubes to strengthen the front axle. Was wondering if I should get the brass version or alu version.

Been out of RC for a while and making my way back with new cars :) also got a Bomber on order

The cg on this rig is rather high, it also has a lot of mass, I would go brass personally..., Although it is not a crawler.
 
Hi RCC members. Got a question for you about the Ryft. I got one on order and am about to order some beef tubes to strengthen the front axle. Was wondering if I should get the brass version or alu version.

Been out of RC for a while and making my way back with new cars :) also got a Bomber on order




I installed the SSD Aluminum ones and they have held up fine so far. I guess depends on what you want. I wanted the light weight strength plus for the cost I can do front and rear for $40 bucks vs beef tubes I believe are $30 each for front and rear. Installation was a breeze and I have taken several pretty decent cartwheels across the yard and nothing had bent or broken yet. I do agree though with Lonelycreeper that static weight down low even though this isn't a crawler would have some major advantages depending on driving style and terrain. But like with all things the heavier they are the harder they fall or hit and at the speeds this thing can do pretty much guaranteed to break something sooner rather than later.
 
How well is that working for you? Looks like it should definitely climb better. Did you lose much articulation with that mod?

Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk

0 articulation lost, I have not run it since the mod though. I need to drop in the UD gears in the rear and glue the tires to the rims, however, I am not 100% satisfied with the rim fitment, so I am waiting on that too.
 
Little update on my Ryft experience...

I preordered the truck before it released and got it shortly after. Drove it around in the yard some and wasn't really impressed. The speed was stupid and the open diffs/sensorless motor/servo saver steering sucked for what I wanted. I even tried to sell it but no one would bite. I did take all the diffs apart and pack them with the thickest diff fluid I could get at my LHS. A few weeks later I attempted to take it trailing with some friends, and with the sensorless motor, it was horrible. In that same trip, I barely bumped a rock with the servo horn and it locked the stock steering servo up. I had to carry the stupid thing all the way back and it got benched for months.

I then found out about the 2 speed transmission gears and ordered those, hoping to breath new life in it. This past weekend, I finally installed them along with an old Tekin Pro4HD and MMP, I also rebuilt an old Savox servo I had and used it for the steering servo.

WHAT A DIFFERENCE! It now has low speed control, but can also still climb a steep hill without issue. I drove it multiple times over the weekend around the house and in an old creek bed, and it was a blast! I am looking forward to hitting a real trail with it now!
 
Do you guys have any suggestions for beadlock wheels? I'd like to try and reuse the stock tires, but I'd like to keep about the same wheel width, which is about 40mm. I can't seem to find many 40mm offerings.
 
Do you guys have any suggestions for beadlock wheels? I'd like to try and reuse the stock tires, but I'd like to keep about the same wheel width, which is about 40mm. I can't seem to find many 40mm offerings.
Best looking ones I have seen are the treal 2.2 these have been confirmed to fit the ryft tires. I have seen some fitment issues with some.

https://www.amazon.com/Treal-Alumin...d=1640488610&sprefix=treal+2.2,aps,105&sr=8-1

Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk
 
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