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NK's V1 Bomber Build

At some point this pin broke, I wonder if it was already weakened and it snapped on install.

Everything is ripped apart at the moment

Going to try an exponential throttle curve

No wheel spacers, see how bad it rolls, don't think I've run it with 90mm shocks on factory width
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Not much to do just waiting on a new servo.

Picked up some stuff from the LHS

Tried to make some kydex body panels, not my forte.
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Busy day! New servo, back together, 3 test runs, and more new parts..

The benefit of axle tubes? I'm sure they add a ton of strength, but filing down the inner shoulder on the axle shaft means that it can slide into the spool apparently, had that issue today while removing a tire. Bought some new axial shafts from my LHS and filed them down right to the point of fitting, and I'll be more careful from here on

The new servo is very quiet, really well finished, and super quick, I'll have a review in a separate thread

Race tomorrow, I'm more excited to be on a track instead of gravel, it's really destroying my stage one kit in the rear, finish looks terrible

Switched back to the 2.1 Badlands, and 20mm extensions on the rear, that 40mm/1.5" really make a difference in the stability through corners

The factory tires seem heavy and out of balance, great for crawling but I haven't been too impressed with their speed handling, they grip too well!
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About 2 hours of u4 racing, went through 4 batteries

Track was pretty muddy from dew, but no puddles

All the tents are homeless people

Ran great, need to have the servo repaired after a cartwheel, going to build a saver in the meantime

Pretty happy with the gearing, the yeti there had me in the straightaways but I could power through corners better

First time seeing a Lasernut in person as well

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Ordered one of these to make a servo saver

At 100mm long full extension, and 72 at full compression, that equals out to 86mm at exactly mid stroke if I'm doing my math right.

The factory drag link is 110mm, I could flip the servo 180 and run a 90mm, which would also fix the clearance issue with the diff cover.

But running a shorter drag link is worse for wear? Not sure.

I can cheat it over 4mm to make it an even 90, I was thinking heavy springs but others have recommended fuel line.
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Not the prettiest thing in the world, but it's definitely functional. Should provide lots of protection for the centerlink and diff, mine was starting to wear in the same place I've seen holes in others.

It's very very slick, should act like a sled when it snows around here too.

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Playing around with savers and tightening things up

Seperate thread on how to build the servo saver out of a shock
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Went through a battery with some savers

Mamba X fan turned on again for a few minutes but I was also crawling up concrete stairs with my high gearing

Running a Kimbrough 124 and the factory drag link for now
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Had to do some trimming to fit the saver at full compression

Added the extra set of rear springs since I have them, just trying them out

With a 5200mah 2S battery, the rig is 8lbs 2oz
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Model T is back and installed!

I was noticing some squeaking from the rear axle, I removed the axle mount bolts (that screw into the lower shock mount) and applied some bearing lube to the threads. Squeak is gone, which means it's the axle rubbing on the screw, it'll cut the threads down eventually, I've seen others file them but I'll just run them.

The rubber cover on the Mamba X switch didn't last very long

Also 1 of the 5 cheap horns I purchased is entirely missing it's teeth lol
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Rebuilt servo is doing great

Did some harsh trail riding, had one instance where I had a squeal in reverse, could have been the clutch slipping? Can't get it to happen again, here's a video; https://youtu.be/h782hYDywL8

Hit the low voltage shutoff on the Mamba X for the first time, I usually swap batteries before they die

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U4 Race today, pretty big turnout

3 classes, independent, solid axle, and yeti

Spent a lot of time upside down, wasn't my turns as much as it was the jumps, I'd roll after landing, but wasn't the only one

Stopped by a shop on the way home and bought some 60w shock oil for the rear, should slow the bounce I'm getting on large runs

Not happy with my tires at all, think I'm going to sell them and get something wider and stiffer, haven't decided on anything yet



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Now that I can post in the right thread

I changed the rear shock oil to 60w, really helped with the bouncing in fields at speed

15mm hub extensions are back on the front, switched back to badlands and ordered some new rims from AMain today

Lost a wheel barrel nut for the first time but was able to find it

2s/3s afternoon run, if you look closely you can see the University of Oregon's stadium in the background
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Rig is 7lbs 1oz with the badlands

Pulled apart my old tires, shocked to see how small the foams are now, they are easily half their size

I'll be adding the outer tuning ring for sure if I still have them
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I reached out to CI and found out the inner foams really shouldn't be re-used

I'm moving from a 1" aluminum rim to a 1.5" plastic rim, and I don't want empty air space between the used foams and the new width of the tire

So I also asked them what they run in their bomber, and ordered a set. They recommended their rims, which are probably better built, but I preferred the axial versions

CWR 3303 rear
CWR 1305 front

New rims are axial part # AXI43006

Plastic beadlocks with 6 lug hubs, half off right now on AMain

Everything should be here this week, plan to run the same BFG baja's I have now
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New foams are here

Wish amain would step up, two orders now and both times it took ~2.5 days between the label being created and the item being shipped. Feels like it's 2006 again and I'm ordering off towerhobbies
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