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NK's V1 Bomber Build

Snowballs are installed on the steering system, they are 3d printed but feel a lot like a dense rubber, very tight which makes them a little tough to install

I used all new Traxxas end links

The passenger side aluminum arm for the drag link to center link connection (red, vanquish) was actually bent. Probably from the same roll that killed my servo weeks ago. Already had a backup in the box

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Also fixed the front shocks, since I already had to remove them I decided to try 60 weight up front, now I'm 60/60

Still unlocked front and rear
 
3S run! And nothing broken! (That I know of)

Had a 2wd stampede show up to the same area running a 12t, it was quick off the line but nowhere near top end
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May i ask why the 3D printed "snowballs" as apposed to the metal ones? I generally use powdered graphite to lube them up, not sure how much of a difference it makes, but should help longevity of them.

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May i ask why the 3D printed "snowballs" as apposed to the metal ones? I generally use powdered graphite to lube them up, not sure how much of a difference it makes, but should help longevity of them.

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Trying something different, they fit VERY tightly, eliminate any slop in the end links, like a rubber bushing

We'll see how they wear

In theory they technically reduce some weight if you were willing to do all of them, they also provide some "give" in really hard hits
 
Not sure when I'll get to install it, but look what's here!

3800kv

Can't believe how small it is, much smaller can than the Roc412HD?

Wires are crazy long too
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How are those axial bomber Wheels holding up?

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Haven't had any issues other than deciding on hubs, the chanquish hubs came in but screws weren't included

Paint is coming off where they have rubbed gravel, no worse than the body though
 
Setup in the new to me garage, lots more work to do but cleared enough to open up the rig.

New motor is in, need to pickup a sensor wire, just using the Tekin one for now. I can't remember what gearing i went with but it's the smaller 3mm shaft size which I have way more variety of.

I've got a pretty loud click coming from what I believe is the rear driveshaft, no noise without tension or rolling on the ground.

Playing with the new hubs, I'm not actually sure what's stronger? Looking at the chanquish hub, seems like a lot more metal but most of the stress is placed on the axle at the nut/lockout bearing.

The hot racing looks thinner, but your gaining way more diameter in the barrel nut and the extension itself, barrel nut would spread the load of impacts across the the whole axle end?

Maybe it doesn't matter? Could get crazy and run both.
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Disappointing to say the least

3100kv vs 3900kv

Same gearing

Foams are different

Same speed?

Do I need to calibrate the motor?
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Your only slightly increasing kv with a lowish voltage, wont be a big difference. Check the data log on the mamba x, will tell you your motor rpm and voltage, and you can find the true kv. My 1410 3800kv castle was pretty darn close to its kv rating. If you're limited to 2s usage, get the puller pro 4100L, or even the 6000L. Otherwise you can run that tekin on 4s.
I had bad luck with the wheel hex adapters, broke 3 out of 4 barrel nuts. I think the long hubs would probably be stronger.

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Your only slightly increasing kv with a lowish voltage, wont be a big difference. Check the data log on the mamba x, will tell you your motor rpm and voltage, and you can find the true kv. My 1410 3800kv castle was pretty darn close to its kv rating. If you're limited to 2s usage, get the puller pro 4100L, or even the 6000L. Otherwise you can run that tekin on 4s.
I had bad luck with the wheel hex adapters, broke 3 out of 4 barrel nuts. I think the long hubs would probably be stronger.

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I've just been calculating it by hand, the chart is much easier!

I ran 3s tonight, still eyeing the Tekin 4100
 
New top speed for the bomber!

Motor hit 105, Wich doesn't sound terrible but it is also 51 outside and only 7 minutes of running?

3S

I've got some play somewhere in the steering that's driving me nuts, it's favoring the last direction I turned while running straight

Road was a hair wet, might be a touch faster if it was dry but overall I'm switching back to Tekin. Maybe up one or two teeth on the pinion and see where temps go, I just can't bail on that torque.

The castle is "zippy" and personally it sounds better too, but Its lacking the "umph"

Maybe a Tekin 4100 and stick with 2s? Or finally find some 3s batteries?

Looks like the last race we will see for awhile is on Sunday, after that the rain begins!
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What started as "swapping the motor"

Turned into about 3 hours of work

The Tekin is back in, I'll do some speed tests tomorrow and see the exact differences in speed

The front axle now has the HD factory ratio gear set, 500k diff fluid instead of grease, new bearings throughout, cleaned up all the joints the knuckles

Also swapped the front tires over to the chanquish 750 hubs, so the whole vehicle is 750 instead of 15/20mm hot racing

Front link ends are swapped to snowballs, and it really helped with axle wrap. There's no clicking/play if you grab the axle and twist it or compress the suspension, not the funnest to install but they really act like bushings, just waiting to see how they wear
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I still think you should look into the holmes hobbies puller pro L. It'll have more grunt then the tekin. Though the tekin is a very nice motor, and will be enough motor for you. Cheapest option now is to try the caslte 3800kv on 3s. Might be enough for you. In one of my rock bouncers, I'm running the 1410 3800kv on 4s drone batteries. Little 1600mah lihv 100c ones. Light and last about 45 minutes. I also installed much shorter and larger wires on the motor. The stock motor wires were actually heating up more then the motor. But I still say you'll have best results with the puller pro L motors. They make a 6000kv made for racing on 2s, and the 4100 for 2 or 3s. My favorite motor is the 3500kv motor. Its a beast.

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