NK's V1 Bomber Build

[NKlamerus]

Thanks for logging all of this for us. It's fun watching your rig get dialed in.

No problem!

I did a lot of research before ever buying a bomber, luckily they are (were?) Pretty popular but I couldn't really find any data on gearing and speeds that used gps instead of the gearing calculator, which I don't rely on at all, too many variables.

I should go back and include which of these used the overdrive in the front vs stock axle gearing, not sure how much of a difference it'll make in straight line speed.

I'm thinking the open front diff won't affect it at all, but if it does I'm assuming a hair more speed and less heat on the motor.

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk

 

[NKlamerus]

Always thinking about the big upgrade.....

Metal motor plate, metal spur, mamba monster X, and maybe a Tekin Roc412? I haven't decided on a KV or brand specifically

I want an ESC with adjustable voltage shutoff and something that can handle 18-20v every now and then.....

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[NKlamerus]

USPS must be smoking something

 

[NKlamerus]

Open diff is in! WOW what a difference!

After gearing for speed, I would argue this should be done second for a racing rig with a bomber. Our track doesn't have quite the U4 style rock sections so should handle fine, but it really eliminated the rolling in corners.

Went together well, I used lucas Red-N-Tacky for the first time, seemed to pack really well and easier to deal with than standard axle grease.

Getting some binding/clunking at a full turn while the wheels are spinning under power. Not sure where to start, tried to adjust max steer but when it seems to be gone, I can't turn anymore. Doesn't do it when I soon by hand

Driveshaft still clicking somewhere, MIP replacements maybe, it's a decent weak point though for brushless.

 

[NKlamerus]

Horn after horn after horn.....might try going back to vanquish? Or get a servo saver. Also blew my first ball end on a rock....

 

[NKlamerus]

Drained a battery on a pretty hard run in the backyard. On the 15t pinion, may have to drop back down to the 13, or run it until it burns up.

Hit 210° by the time the battery died, it's also 93°F outside.

I went to adjust the drag brake and noticed I never actually turned it off, I was assuming I had some rolling drag somewhere, turns out the metal connecter on the ESC was still on the 50% pins......

 

[Cyclist]

I would guess that having the drag brake on is also contributing to the heat issues, as well as faster battery drain.

 

[NKlamerus]

Unfortunately no practice at the track today. Local wildfire has the area scrambling, it's currently about 30min east of me, luckily the wind switched and heading north at the moment

 

[NKlamerus]

Fire threat has finally dropped, want to run the car but don't think the ash will be too good for it? It's extremely fine and lite.

 

[NKlamerus]

I guess the smoke messed with my head, I dropped my wallet and somehow all this piled around it.

I originally wanted a Monster X but can't find one anywhere, local guys recommended the Mamba X as the next best option. My only concern is heat, 2s-3s

Roc412 3100kv Element Proof motor

Hot Racing Motor mount and cam

Castle link, wire, bullet connectors, should be a good friday night!

 

[NKlamerus]

Motors kinda in

 

[NKlamerus]

3S on the way. I'm not sure the 3100 is gonna be fast enough on 2S....

 

[NKlamerus]

Somewhat in, factory tune on the Mamba X.

The soldering absolutely kicked my arse. Had to go out and buy a new gun and real solder, turned out good enough to work I suppose.

Not happy with the spur gear mesh, seems clicky, looks like the very metal inner washer is wearing out where it lies on the shoulder of the shaft, it also rubs on the inner dust cover shroud.

Speed seems similar to Traxxas 12t, definitely more torque, and after a 10 min run the motor was only at 90 degrees, all concrete speed runs.

 

[NKlamerus]

2 batteries through it so far, just spur gear adjustments

Motor never exceeded 100 degrees! ESC is about 85 degrees

 

[NKlamerus]

Got the wiring somewhat cleaned up. Not happy with the switch placement but at least it's secure

Lite coating of liquid electrical tape on the motor connections, just piece of mind.

Plugged in the castle link and played with some settings. Using the aux wire for crawling/racing mode

It worked first time, does this mean I don't need to adjust end points? I've never adjusted any of my end points other than steering with the knob on the Tactic TTX300

Crawling brake is STRONG, I've got regular brake at 20% and Punch Control at 20%

Throttle Ramp at a very slight curve just to see how I like it

 

[NKlamerus]

Got about 40 min of battery before I decided to switch to battery 2!

Good long runs, motor only hit 105°

Other than getting absolutely disgusting, I stripped the Vanquish horn.

 

[NKlamerus]

LHS has another vanquish arm, 2 new slipper plates AND a 17t metal pinion, so I'll pick those up tomorrow.

Plate isnt rounded out but the shoulders that rest against the shoulder on the shaft look like their worn in. Shaft may be a hair bent too.

 

[Cyclist]

I have a Rock Rey and a lot of other rey users seem to have that same motor/esc combo and love it. I don't have a servo on axle rig (yet) but wondering if some kind of servo saver might help with your servo arm problem. Seems you've gone through a couple of them now.

 

[NKlamerus]

I have a Rock Rey and a lot of other rey users seem to have that same motor/esc combo and love it. I don't have a servo on axle rig (yet) but wondering if some kind of servo saver might help with your servo arm problem. Seems you've gone through a couple of them now.

So far I'm liking it, just a little slow. No cogging though!

I can't source a 3s battery at the moment, the wild fires have my shipping dates delayed 4 weeks or so, but it will probably give me the wheel speed I want instead of 17/56 on 2s

I've looked a ton into servo savers, even asked around some of the larger facebook groups. They all prefer to run a decent servo with a good horn, and either let the horn or an end link break. Or run a plastic rod from the servo to the first knuckle.

I've looked at the Proline big hitter, which is discontinued, I love the simplicity but it's also ~45$ and a 3mm rod? Doesn't seem like a good idea.

Also looked into spring loaded nitro versions, like Kimbrough, but I have no experience with them.

 

[NKlamerus]

New slipper plates is in, seems like the old one was either thinner or really wore out and sitting too close to the trans. Switched to a 17t pinion and 56t spur. Mesh wasn't perfect, a little tight so I'll need to take that into account.

I tore into the front axle and installed the OD diff gears from axial with the open gears as well.

Took it for some runs, and although faster, immediately went back to the garage and removed them.

"Diffing out" was much worse, and on a long straightaway (asphalt) the front end lead the rear along, hard to keep straight for sure. No bouncing though. I ran it really hard in the backyard and actually got the ESC fan to turn on, motor was 109

On the factory gearing, although slower?, It tracks better, still getting more speed from the 17t pinion, and I couldn't get the ESC fan to turn on, must be right on the edge and the difference in gears takes it over the line. Motor was still about 109 after a run.

Impressed with the Lucas Red-N-Tacky, still really sticky, although all grey. Still interested in trying the ear plug silicone.

The factory diff gears are just starting to scallop it seems, will probably need to get HD gear sets in the future, probably a new 12$ axle housing, pulling the beef tubes sucks though.

I'm shocked the driveshafts are holding up, between the loose end joints and a warped rear shaft, I figured they would have blown by now. Probably on 3S

I've been ignoring the suspension, could definitely use some tuning, nicer shocks, maybe add a damper. I haven't seen a lot of shock mounts I like.