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MAC FAB Bomber build, TAKE 2

The name I was looking for is DLUX, he should be able to help you out.

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Jboucher said:
The name I was looking for is DLUX, he should be able to help you out.

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk
Click to expand...


Thanks! I will look into him.





Here is 4,3,2,1WD not necessarily in that order.




<iframe src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/2nEr-WNzKwU" allow="autoplay; encrypted-media" allowfullscreen="" width="560" height="315" frameborder="0"></iframe>https://youtu.be/2nEr-WNzKwU
 
20181101_181248 by MAC FAB, on Flickr

Had it out again today, looking to see what would break today. I need to video some whoop footage of this thing, the suspension works well, tires sucking up the bumps and the cage staying flat, much like a hula dancer 8). At least something went right on this build. Anyhow, I only broke one front axle tonight, the Slash 4x weak link part at the wheel. The rear gremlins may be solved with the Summit CVD at the diff mated to E Revo U joints at the wheel on the rear. Those should have broken first on the granite rock faces I was climbing and with my driving technique today, the "I don't care if I destroy my rig" technique. (The ones in the background left of the pic) It worked pretty well with the RTR tires until it became 3wd. So now I have reached out to the Traxxas community to hopefully find a reasonable, reliable, front axle fix. Not looking forward to having to go to the $$$ custom made pieces for this thing to work all the time.
OH JOY!!! MIP is not too far from my work. They will get a phone call tomorrow!!!!
 
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RIP driveshaft. Lol. Traditional U joint shafts are probably the only way, problem is few if any of the metal ones come with a stub shaft on one end.

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Anyone out there run MIP rear drive shafts? If so, how long are they from joint to joint? Heck, how long is the Bomber rear drive shaft??? It appears that the ends are universal at the barrel on the MIP stuff. I need 3-7/8" to work.(dog leg the drive line, 3-7/8" between the yokes) Any hope for me or am I buying the Slash set only to have to cut, extend and weld them back together?
 
MAC FAB said:
Anyone out there run MIP rear drive shafts? If so, how long are they from joint to joint? Heck, how long is the Bomber rear drive shaft??? It appears that the ends are universal at the barrel on the MIP stuff. I need 3-7/8" to work.(dog leg the drive line, 3-7/8" between the yokes) Any hope for me or am I buying the Slash set only to have to cut, extend and weld them back together?
Click to expand...
The 2wd version might work, but I'm not sure. I would Email the guys at MIP.

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MasteroFlego said:
The 2wd version might work, but I'm not sure. I would Email the guys at MIP.

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Click to expand...


I'll measure my 2wd tonight, it has longer arms. Hopefully those will work. I assumed they would be the same as the 4wd. As for MIP, they had nothing for me.
 
MAC FAB said:
I'll measure my 2wd tonight, it has longer arms. Hopefully those will work. I assumed they would be the same as the 4wd. As for MIP, they had nothing for me.
Click to expand...
The 2wd shafts are longer than 4x4, simply because the diff case is narrower.

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No bueno, 2wd is still way too short. Looks like I'll be cutting up some axles, just need to figure the best bang for my buck on which ones to start with.
 
FABULOUS UPDATE!!!!!!!! I have still been playing the e mail thing, slowly but surely getting more information regarding axle sizing and such. They sent me an old PDF drawing that explained how they determine sizes. I guess I asked the right question finally after studying their parts catalog for what I thought should be the right length for me, I got a phone call from their tech service department, from a guy named Dalton, a wealth of information regarding their products. Needless to say, MIP is about 15 min from my work, so I have an appointment to bring my Bomber by so they can see it and I should end up with front axles, one way or another. I may be lucky enough to get rears as well. "thumbsup""thumbsup""thumbsup""thumbsup""thumbsup""thumbsup""thumbsup""thumbsup" Props to MIP!!!!!
 
I need to get cracking on my attempt to drill out the broken MIP tool tips from my MIP driveshaft components, and order replacement parts to get Bomber#2 ready...

Glad you are getting hooked up!

Wanna see your rig up and running reliably.
 
Wait for it........

20181120_112644 by MAC FAB, on Flickr

I have MIPs for the front. Here are a couple pics of their shop. Great people,

20181120_124111 by MAC FAB, on Flickr

Axles being made.....

20181120_124029 by MAC FAB, on Flickr

More of the shop.... VERY QUIET for a machine shop.

20181120_123851 by MAC FAB, on Flickr

20181120_124242 by MAC FAB, on Flickr

Got tools????

Thanks to Dalton and the MIP crew for getting me hooked up and the shop tour. "thumbsup""thumbsup""thumbsup""thumbsup""thumbsup""thumbsup""thumbsup"
 
I have to lose about 3/8" wheel travel to use them, and ironically, they are the same length as the fronts now. So if it continues to break plastic stuff, then it will have the "full monty" of MIP stuff. I could also spool an E Maxx diff I have, out back, being its much narrower that the Summit diff, then the axles may work and I keep the wheel travel. Time will tell.....
 
MIPs are great, its looking like all the axles will most likely end up that way. Its nice to roll up to something and not have a quarter turn of twist in the driveline because of plastic axles!! Plastic hexes on the rear are the next weakest link. Then the socket head hardware on the bottom has to go, hooks up on everything, but I knew that going in. Hard to beat Home Depot pricing on the little machine screws and nuts just to get it running. If the weather cooperates, I'll hit something somewhere to see how fat Betty does.
 
A little night running. MIPs are golden up front, no drivetrain issues for now. Lost the rear center drive U joint at the yoke on the diff after some seriously fun drifting and bashing. I may have to lose a bit of pinion angle so they can survive, going to try a Summit CVD first, those are beefy. If that fails, then I become a President's Gold Club member at MIP for the money I'll be spending there. This sucker can twist-o-flex!!!

20181212_194435 by MAC FAB, on Flickr

20181212_193856 by MAC FAB, on Flickr
 
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/146560576@N08/46438119121/in/datetaken/" title="20181223_112314"><img src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4851/46438119121_0287bef9de_z.jpg" width="640" height="360" alt="20181223_112314"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>

Maybe I "crawl" incorrectly, but I try to take stuff as slow as possible, simply because I find it interesting. Yes, I know I need a sensored motor, first off. HOWEVER, is this behavior a common occurance for everybody driving like this or is this part of the curse of independent suspension while going slow? Fat Betty (11 lbs) has a forward weight bias, 60/40. I probably should have unlocked the rear diff to see if that solved the problem of not tracking the steering, thus not being able to crest the little rut. Same for SLOW in the rocks, it just pushes. Suggestions? (That cracking noise you're hearing is sticks/tumble weed fragments breaking up into pieces in the steering and in the drive line.)
 
MAC FAB said:
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/146560576@N08/46438119121/in/datetaken/" title="20181223_112314"><img src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4851/46438119121_0287bef9de_z.jpg" width="640" height="360" alt="20181223_112314"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>

Maybe I "crawl" incorrectly, but I try to take stuff as slow as possible, simply because I find it interesting. Yes, I know I need a sensored motor, first off. HOWEVER, is this behavior a common occurance for everybody driving like this or is this part of the curse of independent suspension while going slow? Fat Betty (11 lbs) has a forward weight bias, 60/40. I probably should have unlocked the rear diff to see if that solved the problem of not tracking the steering, thus not being able to crest the little rut. Same for SLOW in the rocks, it just pushes. Suggestions? (That cracking noise you're hearing is sticks/tumble weed fragments breaking up into pieces in the steering and in the drive line.)
Click to expand...

I'd try underdriving the rear diff (or overdriving the front). Unlocking rear would likely help too, I think.

$0.02
 
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